Regular Route* HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab left of the big overhang of Roof Route was a late discovery. The final rib is the crux. Keep left and be aware of the closeness of the ledge; it will break your fall! © ROCKFAX

FA. John Allen 1988
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This climb is in 152 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15

kermit_uk - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Michelle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/15

Did most of the route but tried to go straight up the middle. Backed of because of all the moss. I looked at the left edge finish which was a lot easier but didnt realize this was the actual route. Escaped by heading left onto the slab
Big Steve - Lead dnf - 16/May/15 with Karen

Moved left into Renshaw's Remedy instead of the final move.
Phil West - 2nd dnf - 16/May/15 with Chris Tan

climbed down from the ledge
MysteriousCeorl - Solo dnf - 15/May/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Emma

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Dr Julie

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Alex Twist

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Jon_H

The lower section is very easy but really nice. The upper section is pretty tough for a short arse as the crucial final holds are just out of reach...
jonhowson - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Jimbo

jonhowson - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/15 with Rich Williams

Much, much easier for tall people
Jimbo C - 2nd - 07/Mar/15 with Jon

Paul Hy - Lead - 03/Mar/15 with Phil T

Obviously not climbed much, very green. Well pleased to lead this one.
stevelismore - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14 with tom pcc

hodge192 - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/14 with stevelismore

dom94 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14 with Clement

ChrisVickers - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Stu Howard

andy.smythe - Lead - 16/Mar/14

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andy S, Dave W

jimbonfire - 16/Mar/14

AshBash - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

GLO - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Steve O'Rourke

WillDoyle - Solo - 07/Mar/14

the power - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with deacon

gazfellows - Lead - 16/Feb/14 with Nic

Brilliant route that I think is easily missed! Feels a little stiff at the top to start with! But as the guide says... Keep left.
gazfellows - Lead - 2014 with Nic

AidanG - 2014

drobin - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/13

franhammond92 - 2nd - 19/Dec/13

Much better than it looks from the ground. First slab is quite interesting. Found the upper section fairly bold and thin.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Nov/13

hipyhop - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Cherelle

BnB - 03/Aug/13

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 01/Jul/13 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13

Sankey - 2nd - 11/Nov/12 with Jon

jshields - Lead - 11/Nov/12 with Steve Ebbens

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/12

Sarah Brookes - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with dave barker

woodsy - Lead - 14/Sep/12

Gudge - Lead O/S - Sep/12 with Woodsy

Hidden - Lead - May/12

J25 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Vicky Jennings, Alex Thompson

J25's lead. Had to collect myself before committing to the top section.
Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Vix, JonnyO

First attempt at a HVS, found myself in a pile on the ledge after psyching myself out of the crux.
BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/12 with Alex Thompson

vix - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Steve M

SteveM - Lead - 25/Feb/12 with Rachael

Hidden - Solo - 2012

There are plenty of gear placemnets just beneath the crux section. I managed to place a cam and a nut. Also, there is gear in the slab on the way up, although only at about half height. The bottom slab is much easier than the upper crux section.
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/11 with Alan Mountford

hotfeet - 2nd - 07/Oct/11 with Matthew

cheeky - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/11 with Mark Philipson

mark4344 - 2nd - 20/Sep/11 with Matt Payne

Mild with only on tricky move just below the top.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with Graham Parkes

Chose not to lead due to the silly death ledge!!! Think I was wise, complicated crux with serious decking potential...
Oliver Houston - 2nd - 15/Jun/11

Be warned the top section is hard and you will deck if you fall off! I pretty much got rescued..
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/11 with Oliver Houston

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 15/Jun/11 with Becca, Ollie

busdriver - 2nd - 29/May/11 with Chris

mark20 - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

Too hard - bailed before the final bulge
James_D - Lead dnf - 02/May/11 with Rach

Batt - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Si Coldrick

Surprisingly worrying finish
Tim_C7 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with John O'Hara

nick ferro - 16/Apr/11

gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Chris

Putt finished the route
Jim Malo - Lead dnf - 22/Jan/11 with Putt

the power - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/10

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Ian Moore

Hard top out with the potentional for a nasty ladge fall, still really enjoyed it.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

derekb - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Steve - PCC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10

Felt more like VS to me.
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Mark J, Ian Jenkins

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Jul/10

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Ben 250

kitkat78 - 2nd rpt - 30/May/10 with Andy K, SteveM

Alpandy - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Steve and Kat

SteveM - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Andy, Kat

Another nice route. Was up and down to the ledge at the top a few times then when I finally committed to the move I was drawn out onto the arete and put my foot out onto the next route for a second. Was still a hard move and wasn't straight forward - will have to try and stay on the face next time to see how much I cheated...
charley - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Ange, Geoff, Kev

Tithe Technique - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Geoff Burrows, Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Charley's lead...nice balancy fingery slab climbing
valentinesbabe - TR O/S - 30/May/10 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Ruth Colston

RuthC - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Matt Maynard

Darren_R - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Dave Parsons

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/10

swoosh - Solo - 22/Apr/10

Committed in the wrong position at the top and made it feel stiff as I overstretched. Nothing to do with the hangover honest ;-)
31770 - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with adamscottthomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/09

Felt easy for 5a, but you're going to hit the big ledge if you come off the crux. Committing but rewarding stuff, worthy of a star.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Rich Cole

First HVS; possibly not the best choice. Bold at the bottom and top. Crux at the top above the gear. You won't fall far, but you will hit something. Thankfully (or unfortunately for the quality of the route) you can check out those crux moves first and reverse to the ledge, and similarly, it's also very escapable. Gets a star for having proper face climbing above gear (plus it's a John Allen route(!))
Conor1 - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Danny Carden

Bill Lawrence - Solo O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Guy VG

5a move low down then a hard 5a/5b move on the upper face.
GuyVG - Solo O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Young sickly Billy

deacondeacon - Solo - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

Brown - Solo O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Solo

SteveM - 2nd O/S - 22/Nov/08 with Kat

kitkat78 - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08 with SteveM

AndyM-LVB - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Richard Hopton

richardhopton - 2nd - 18/Oct/08 with AndyM-LVB

Hidden - TR - 27/Sep/08

Trigoc - 2nd - Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/08

This climbs nicely. Frictious rock, two mini run-outs, above slightly fiddly gear: the top one (crux) is above a ledge to add some spice,
Sankey - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with Michael

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08

john lynch - Lead - 31/May/08 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/May/08

mel holmes - 2nd - 26/May/08 with Tony Reed

mel holmes - 2nd - 26/Apr/08 with Tony Reed

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08

duzinga - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Stu Bolton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08

Pete Horn - 2nd O/S - 01/Dec/07 with Charles

cem - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/07 with Pete Horn

climbingpixie - 2nd - 03/Nov/07 with James/Hazel

Peakpdr - Sep/07 with paul

Jethro - Lead - Sep/07 with Megan Green

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 27/Feb/07 with dan woolnough

found route easy at top
martin48 - Lead - 2007 with dave

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/06 with James Baker

catt - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/06 with Toby

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 15/Oct/06 with steve

sasmojo - Lead O/S - Oct/06 with Marsh

Hidden - Lead - Feb/05

Iggy_B - Solo O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Lev - AltLd O/S - 02/May/04 with Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/04

cem - 2nd - 02/Feb/03 with Jonathan Astin

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jan/03

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 17/Apr/02 with Laurie Smith

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2002 with john d

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00 with Ian Waterhouse

r0b - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/98 with Ian Huyton

Roget - Solo O/S - 20/Sep/97 with jon

crater - 2nd - 15/Sep/96

jim_randell - TR O/S - 04/Jun/93

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Mar/93

Chris the Tall - Solo O/S - May/92 with Dave Gurney

Podling - Solo - 1992

Hidden - Solo - 04/Jul/91

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 12/May/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BnB, SuperLee1985, BenedictIEP

Total votes cast 104
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E11 of 36
hard HVS6 of 36
HVS25 of 36
easy HVS3 of 36
hard VS1 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b4 of 35
hard 5a6 of 35
5a20 of 35
easy 5a4 of 35
hard 4c1 of 35
4c0 of 35
easy 4c0 of 35
3 Stars0 of 33
2 Stars4 of 33
1 Star18 of 33
0 Stars11 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat