Rockfax Description
Climb the pleasant shallow groove left of the jutting roof via a short boulder problem sequence. Despite its brevity, it is hard for HVS and hard for 5b! © Rockfax

FA. Bill Briggs 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

atom 10/Oct Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Oct Lead dog
Matt Groom 12/Aug Lead
with Nina
Neal Jobling 24/Jun 2nd RP
with Tony Flint
MysteriousCeorl 26/May Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 10/May Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Hidden 04/May Lead
john lynch 26/Apr Lead O/S
with esther
Hidden 25/Apr 2nd O/S
samh.uk 05/Apr 2nd dog
with Tony
BenedictIEP 27/Mar Lead dnf


MysteriousCeorl 20/Mar Lead dnf

Fell going around the roof

Jimbo C 07/Mar 2nd

Tough! Hard to read and hard for 5b, gear not great either.

with Olly
dr_botnik 05/Mar Lead RP

Don't think it's a "pleasant groove" more like an awkward boulder problem in the sky. Took me 3 goes to get it clean, and even then my foot nearly slipped off.

brownie mike 18/Jan Lead O/S
the power 17/Jan Lead rpt

Super sport.well hard

with chris
Palmer 17/Jan Lead

After numerous attempts

Palmer 17/Jan -
stevelismore 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Excellent lead by Tom-really tough climb.

with tom pcc
hodge192 26/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct/14 -
BoulderyDave 25/Oct/14 Lead RP
Nick1812P 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

hard for HVS, and doesn't feel well protected.

with Matt H
Hidden 02/Mar/14 -
the power 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with deacon
gazfellows 16/Feb/14 Lead

Great route but hard at the grade !! Beeeeeeeff....

with Nic
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
admackie 15/Dec/13 Lead
Andy Moles 27/Sep/13 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
Alkis 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 01/Jul/13 TR
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 11/May/13 TR
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Cake 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

As might be expected, an easy bit with a boulder problem to end. Tough moves

the power 01/Dec/12 2nd dnf

no fookin way

with owen
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead
deacondeacon 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Went up roof route, couldn't turn the lip so finished up this. Absolutely boxed from attempts on roof route but just scraped up it. Come onto ukc and see that I led roof route 3 years ago lol. My memory is defo getting worse. This section of crag really shows how far hvs can stretch. Groove route, roof route and nonsuch in a day and your probably gonna be ok on steady E2's.

Graeme Hammond 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt

guess I haven't improved much as it didn't seem much easier to lead 5 years after 2nding it!

with Ewan
riddle 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Ted Rogers
Andy Fielding 27/May/12 TR
with Mike Walton
goddamm7 27/May/12 Lead
with Sandrex
Charlie Zephyr Booth 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with martin broadhurst
saffy 13/May/12 Lead O/S
ranga 13/May/12 2nd
helenstuart 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
climbinmunkey 06/May/12 Lead dog

Started up roof route and got spat out. Was wiped out and gripped on this one!

with Helen
Alex Thompson 08/Apr/12 TR dnf

Thought I'd give it another shot after Chris lowered off, but decided to downclimb feeling a little intimidated...

lizzie789 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S


marcduhig 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
sopaz 06/Apr/12 2nd
Tom Phillips 21/Mar/12 TR
with leo
MD 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with Ed
MD 11/Mar/12 TR dog

Worked out the sequence after backing off on the lead.

with Ed
drcorbasisgod 09/Mar/12 2nd O/S
cem 09/Mar/12 Lead rpt
stevorobs3 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Xandra
missxandrabee 18/Feb/12 2nd dog

The One With the Tall Boy Beta

with Boston Michael, Steve
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
AlanPedrick ??/2012 -
JamieSparkes 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S
llamaglama 30/Nov/11 2nd
with Jam
victim of mathematics 18/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Tricky and thought provoking, but probably just about 5b once you've worked it out.

James Oswald 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Effectively an onsight as I couldn't remember the sequence. Fairly desperate until you figure out how. Palms help.

with Colin Angus
Andy Hardy 15/Oct/11 TR

Spanked on the lead - awkward bu66er!

Lumbering Oaf 07/Oct/11 2nd dog

HVS 5a sandbag

hotfeet 07/Oct/11 Lead

A tough number. A good route to finish off a great days climbing.

with Matthew
SteWatkins ?/Oct/11 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Oct/11 2nd
Stone Muppet 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Very height dependent surely?

with ah
Chris Craggs 28/Aug/11 2nd

Hold on the lip then move over left.

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
JRae 07/Aug/11 -

Palmed out to the right hand jug to get stood up in the groove, didn't feel anywhere near 5c like that and went smoothly. We weren't sure if many spot it that way though?? Nice route.

with Zora, A Saul
Reaver2k 07/Aug/11 -
with JRae
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Si
ojp 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Foot near popped again, new route took some working out

with Dave
mark20 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Standard HVS 5b*.

Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
kitkat78 21/May/11 Lead dnf

Finally a fall onto gear.. not sure it's helped me yet though.

with SteveM
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
JPGR 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
ben_250 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Tom
disturbed_one51 13/Nov/10 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 13/Nov/10 2nd
James Oswald 27/Oct/10 2nd RP

Hard. That move is damn hard. 5c IMO.

with James Rees
Stig 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S

VS 5c? Very elegant move.

with james oswald
philb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

with mark a realy good climb this one

derekb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Steve - PCC
James Oswald 02/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the move on lead in spite of being able to hold the hold. Tricky. Will return to slay this one.

with Neil R
AlexxelA ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Bit of a struggle but made it eventually. Weird moves required.

with Alex Williams
swoosh 17/May/10 Lead
with Jamie Armatage
Shauna 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sari
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
cem 09/May/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
andymoin 28/Mar/10 2nd
with Mark Jarvie
James_D 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Piers
handjammer ??/2010 -
jkarran 15/Nov/09 Lead

Quite tricky to find the right moves to get moving up the groove but ok once you do.

with Pete
petellis 15/Nov/09 2nd dog

Dunno how you climb this. Probably about V8

julian allen 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S
freudy_love 13/Oct/09 Lead β
with Jim Baird
andybuckley 31/May/09 TR

Eventually came up this after failing on Roof Route (bah, I will return.) The crux move - stepping up while pulling on the crap bulge - must be pretty scary on lead!

with Dave Williams
tommytwotone 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
Mick r 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Rob put the clips in to the roof but could finish

with big Rob
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Mar/09 2nd dog

Not obvious what to do

with Neil Hyde, Phil Ashton
Martin Haworth 18/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Tough for the grade

with Marek
aspyrex 18/Jan/09 2nd dog
with Martin Haworth
metal arms 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Kevin Bradbury
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
Richard P Coates 30/Dec/08 TR dnf
with Mac, ianjfsutcliffe
jimsrankin ?/Dec/08 Lead
with Andy
SteveM 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Was previously rained off from the crux with Rich.

with Kat
kitkat78 22/Nov/08 2nd
with SteveM
richardhopton 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/08 Solo O/S
tobydunford 11/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
mel holmes 26/May/08 Lead
with Tony Reed
mel holmes 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tony Reed
cem ?/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with Luke Whiting
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 23/Dec/07 Lead dog
Alex Thompson 16/Dec/07 2nd dog

Awkward (off-)balancey move around roof.

with Haydn Martin & Karl Walton
Andrew Sloan 01/Dec/07 Lead dog
Peakpdr ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with paul
max_chan 20/May/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 18/May/07 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Pascall
jimsrankin 11/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Steve
catt 05/Nov/06 Lead β
with Toby
SecretSquirrel 15/Oct/06 2nd
with jimbo
Mutl3y 02/May/06 2nd
with Iggy
Hidden 01/May/06 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead dog
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2006 -
Nicos 05/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 12/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Stig ?/Aug/04 2nd dog

Desperate. Think a hold had recently come off.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
r0b 11/Apr/04 2nd
with Andy Smith
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead
BelleVedere 23/Sep/03 2nd
with Lynn McDougall
Tim W 05/May/03 Lead
cem 12/Jan/03 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Astin
A Crook 12/Jun/02 TR
with Pat Boothman
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead
cem 02/Feb/02 Lead dnf
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
cem 02/Feb/02 2nd β
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
Hidden 19/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead rpt
phardman 12/May/01 Lead O/S
handjammer ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S

I remember the crux move feeling quite strenuous and overall pretty hard for the grade - about the same difficulty as a VDiff at the Roaches!

Rich Malcolm 08/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Ian Waterhouse
Boy ??/2000 -
Hidden 28/Aug/99 Lead
Chris Reid 02/Jan/99 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Roget 20/Sep/97 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 28/Mar/97 Lead
nickdonohue 08/Mar/97 Lead

very thought provoking - good fun

with Steve Corcoran, Dave Chapman
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
Daniel Wrightson 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Elisabetta Marinai
rurp ??/1995 Lead O/S
craig h 09/Oct/94 2nd rpt
with Jim Mellor
Podling ?/Sep/94 2nd
charlesmfrench 16/Jan/94 2nd O/S
Roget 23/May/93 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Hidden 24/Apr/93 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/93 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead
rob.grafton 10/Apr/92 Lead
with jim h, chris pugh, Bruce
craig h 27/May/91 Lead O/S
with Paul Braithwaite
Chris Ellis 18/May/91 2nd
with Martin Veale
goi.ashmore 19/May/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Joyce
Hidden 31/Mar/90 2nd
leathers ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Andy Say 17/Oct/89 Solo O/S
malc 10/Sep/89 2nd
uphillnow ?/Feb/89 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 30/Mar/87 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Palmer, SuperLee1985, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set