Roof Route** HVS 5b
[Preparing for battle or wussing out? Go do it then decide., 3 kb]9m.

Rockfax Description
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on! © ROCKFAX

FA. Joe Brown late 1950s

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Thrutch and Clutch.

Photo: Preparing for battle or wussing out? Go do it then decide. © gungan
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/15

Well ard if like me you can't jam!
Neal Jobling - 2nd dnf - 24/Jun/15 with Tony Flint

Sam McCarthy - Lead G/U - 09/Jun/15

Screw the jam, put the heel on and locked through off the crimp
Mattlamb90 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with jimbonfire, GDun98, Ryan

jimbonfire - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

spidey - Lead β - 07/Jun/15 with Jimmy broomhead, mat lamb

All too sadly predictable: got myself in a mess by placing a cam in the best slot for a good jam, just as I was moving up over the roof
cem - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/15 with Paddy Freer

TomYates - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/15

Sam McCarthy - Lead dnf - 23/May/15 with Tom Bennell, James Lowe

Tried it on second and almost got through the crux before the foot popped. Hand Jams just seem to slip out. Definite sandbag
James Lowe - 2nd dnf - 23/May/15 with Tom Bennell, Sam M

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/15

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/15 with Alex Twist

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/15

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/15 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd rpt - 12/Apr/15 with Jake

Couldn't figure this one out, even when abbing to get gear.
OliverRoss - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/15 with Ryan Baird

fell off...a lot
MysteriousCeorl - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/15

Jimbo C - 2nd - 07/Mar/15 with Olly

dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/15 with Phil Taylor

School hands
the power - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/15 with rob

dont place the cam wer you want to put your fist
Andy Peak 1 - Lead rpt - 07/Feb/15

tried 3 times previously! alot of thrutching and poor technique! managed to not destroy my hands this time!
shaunhumphreys - Lead G/U - 05/Dec/14 with rory

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 30/Nov/14

Good, thrutchy HVS jamming.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Andy Janezco

giuly - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/14 with Chris Saunders

bigdrew - 2nd rpt - 19/Oct/14 with Rachel Slater

dom94 - Lead G/U - 22/Sep/14 with Clement

shaunhumphreys - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/14 with benkelsey

3 goes, 3 fails.. je n'suis pas le grit wizard
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/14 with Shaun Humphreys

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Matt H

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Emma Reynolds

Emma Reynolds - 2nd - 16/Aug/14 with Ky Aizawa

Had fun on this, wasn't expecting to get up it really but it's a safe route to have a play on. Got it on my 3rd attempt...
charley - Lead RP - 03/Aug/14 with JackD

Finally. What a battle. Very hand size dependent - mine are small so it was cupped hands at the crux.
Tubs - Lead RP - 26/Jul/14 with Simon P

si_pro_83 - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/14 with Tubs

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/14

IMPORTANT - Currently there is an owl nesting in the cave below the roof, so please avoid the route for the time being.
DBoothroyd - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/14 with Joe Mortimer

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/14

AshBash - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14

hipyhop - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14 with cheque

Hard to make the rock over onto your left foot.
PaulTanton - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Rhys McCallister, Bruce Woodley

Shame to not get the onsight but great route
Jonny Nick - Lead RP - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - 02/Mar/14

robertmctague - Lead O/S - 2014

admackie - Lead - 15/Dec/13 with chris palmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/13

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13 with Andy

bigdrew - Lead RP - 30/Nov/13 with Si

Teappleby - 2nd - 13/Nov/13 with Alex McCann

amccann - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/13

in rain, never going to end well
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/13

Same sort of grade as Gehenna at Beacon Scar, feels unlikely at HVS to all but the most proficient jammers.
Matthew Ferrier - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/13 with Calum Wadsworth, Alex McCann

Did in the rain because it was mostly dry. Awesome route bit crazy for a warm up!
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/13 with Matt F

Heel slipped just as i was about to have it. Gutted! Near the end of a hard day. Gotta come back when fresh.
DavidPC - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/13 with Rich Purvis

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/13

Tried the second time and I still could not even top out... Super hard.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/13 with Nick B, Tim P

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/13

Amazing not as tough as everyone makes out
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

Managed to get up to the lip and gets good jams in, just couldn't pull on the heel hook! Absolutely shredded my hands.
MPSBunny - Lead dnf - 12/May/13 with Tom Luff

Nobody I know has led this onsight. I had a few tries and slumps on one day last year. When you actually get the move right, it doesn't feel that hard or strenuous, just technical. One move wonder, so not sure about 3 stars, but it's an awesome move.
Jimbo C - Lead β - 30/Apr/13 with Chris

DanielGyi - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/13 with Olli Crudge

3 falls? Strenuous, safe, good.
Olli-C - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13 with Dan Gyi

David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Alan

Brown - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with Stu

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

Nick Rundall - Lead dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Oli Charlesworth, Adam Youd

Tamati - Lead dog - 18/Feb/13

Jams were solid through the roof and got the heel hook but couldn't establish myself on the face. I'll be back!
thomaspomfrett - Lead dnf - 05/Jan/13 with Pat Brien

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jan/13

Another 3* grit HVS onsight blown...
Double Knee Bar - Lead dnf - 24/Nov/12

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12

tried again, got well into the crack and on the lip, but couldn't pull the heel hook.... arrrrrr.. More bouldering, and back for another beating very soon ....
gazfellows - Lead - 27/Jun/12 with Lara, Nic, Billy nic, steff

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Ed hutchins

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 02/Jun/12 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 02/Jun/12 with Mark Williams

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12

Shouldn't have started this one! Was too tired but think I've got the numbers for next time.
climbinmunkey - Lead dnf - 06/May/12 with Helen

Andy Peak 1 - 04/May/12 with H washbrook

jonathanfield - May/12

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Bryony Weathers

Bry - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/12 with Paul

Kirill - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Paul Baxter

I took many falls at the crux and finally gave up, being lowered down - sooo hard!
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/12 with Tony H

Best jamming crack i've done, sweet jams at the lip, then a tussle to get established. This is why I love grit!
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Thomas Geh

Felt like such a beast pulling over the lip
tgeh - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with dan geh

Could not get over roof so went left around it!
SallyMay - TR dog - Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

My new favourite route..
fatbuoybazza - Lead rpt - 27/Nov/11 with liv_the_div

jwpil - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Ben

Excellent..seemed to end up sideways at one point.
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with DaveP

a nice little boulder problem in the sky.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Mark

pie_eater_pete - Lead RP - 24/Oct/11 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd dog - 24/Oct/11 with peter sargent

Heel hook slipped off leaving me hanging on 2 vertical jams , got foot back on then laughed the way to top. Fab !
cobweb - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with martyn hopson

SteWatkins - Oct/11

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Jon Wells

J.Wells - 2nd β - 22/Sep/11 with Matt Cooke

Put in a high cam and blocked perfect height jams for just after the rock over. Whoops... Move felt really nice and just went, was expecting it to be strenuous but it wasnt!
JRae - 07/Aug/11 with A Saul

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/11 with Andy Houseman, Duncan Bell

Feel like a superstar cutting loose on hand jams and throwing in a heel hook. Great fun.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Si

ojp - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Dave

Ha ha, what a route. Tricky for feet
Cake - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with John Cooper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

Deezel65 - 2nd O/S - 16/May/11 with Gareth Hoosen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Jim Brownlow - 2nd dnf - 16/Apr/11 with Ben Burns

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11

Feels easier than it looks!
liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/11

alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Stupidly put a cam in high and blocked my jams making it harder than it needed to be...felt nails but then I don't jam!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/10 with Becca

Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/10

mark20 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

stephenhartley - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Finally. Flashed it today after two failed attempts in years past.
Si dH - Lead β - 28/Apr/10 with Chris Foster

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10

jwpil - 2nd β - 11/Apr/10 with Gordon

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Apr/10

gordonday - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Jack

Excellent fun!
david morse - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/10 with ric

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/10

bad elbows and a lack of commitment didn't help. make sure the gear doesn't block the best jams and work on hip flexibility.
31770 - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/10 with Richard Draisy

gazfellows - Lead dnf - 27/Mar/10

Ouch! Tried to crack this one out at the end of the day (mistake). one move wonder but its a daunting move it spat me out the first few tries. I found the trick in the end was to lunge and get a right hand jam in as high as possible instead of the nicer lower jam because i just couldn't rock onto my left foot when it was lower. Awesome fun though, i think my skin hates me. At least i didnt rest on gear, only fell on it!
disturbed_one51 - Lead dog - 13/Mar/10 with Rob Middleton

katyvose1 - 2010

Ollie B - Lead - 09/Dec/09

Top draw route.
Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09

Brilliant. Really nice fairly easy jams and a rockover (just a bit strenuous rather than technical) From the hype I was expecting a epic battle, but was slightly disappointed it gave it self away without, far from E1. Only thing it lacks is a start to match, like being positioned on the top of the near by Altar Crack.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/09

tomthecoolperson - Lead dog - 22/Sep/09 with Andrew

Two cams in break then go for it. Took a lob off it then climbed it clean. Brilliant route.
deacondeacon - Lead RP - 19/Jul/09

Blimey. Got out to the lip on lead but no further. Tried Groove ROute instead, but got stuck on the crux. Then top-roped RR, getting to the heel hook with high jam but couldn't go further thanks to the rope in the crack. Knackered!
andybuckley - Lead dnf - 31/May/09 with Dave Williams

Dan 85 - 2nd dog - 09/May/09 with Alan

Happy with this, a Hur/Ter-iffic battle! Had a right battle with this! It had started raining (for the first time..) walked up to the roof, placed a couple of bomber medium cams and swung out to the lip, right foot out left, left foot hook right over the lip. Then twist turn and gurn trying to get onto my left foot, slamming in awful baggy handjams into the crack above until I got a semi useful one I could pull and push away from to get over my left foot! Great fun, gritstone brutality at its best!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Dan Woolnough

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/09

Martin Haworth - Lead dnf - 18/Jan/09 with Marek

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08

joe larner - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08

DavidR - Lead dog - 10/Feb/08 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Solid jamming!
DannyK - 2nd dog - 19/Dec/07 with pep

feilx - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/07 with Phil Davis

HVS for Joe Brown; E2 for mere mortals.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 01/Dec/07

Very little bleeding, just treated it more like a boulder problem than a route.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Dec/07 with Chunk

Peakpdr - Lead - 04/Nov/07

climbingpixie - Lead dnf - 03/Nov/07 with SecretSquirrel

SteveM - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07 with Paul & Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/07

al99 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd O/S - Oct/07 with Al Benson

WB - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Guy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/May/07

Fell on going over the roof on an OS Lead... Got to top in the end!
stevo smith - Lead dog - 08/Apr/07

DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Ben VK, Phil Woodhead, Jo Owen

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - Lead - 02/Dec/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/06

A hand knackering, arm pumping, crotch mashing horrorshow. Congrats to Nick for leading this one.
adam carless - TR dog - 15/Oct/06 with Nick Smith - UKC

Rampikino - Lead - 13/Oct/06 with MMC Various

Hidden - TR dnf - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - TR dnf - 01/May/06

Lev - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

mel holmes - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/06

danm - 2nd - 22/Jan/06 with Tidy John

Jon Greengrass - Lead dnf - 2006 with reeeve

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2006

Nicos - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/05 with danny carden

tonked it. What a route. well more like a boulder problem really since the gear's so good & easy to put in and the starts just a scramble up. felt like a good E1 tussle to me.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/05 with Alex Mason

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

shark - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/04 with Jon Winter

MeMeMe - Lead dog - Oct/04

Had to take a rest as going over the lip, very strenuous.
Lev - Lead dog - 02/May/04 with Andrew Bitmead

Ropeboy - Lead - 12/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/04

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/03

five - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with TW

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Jun/02

Hidden - Lead - 16/Dec/01

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/01

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/May/01

dan gibson - Lead - 2000 with helen gibson

Boy - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/Oct/99 with Clare

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/98

RobSimmo - TR dnf - 16/Feb/98 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - TR - 16/Feb/98 with Rob Simpson

Hidden - Solo - 08/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/96

With C Bolton?
uphillnow - Lead O/S - 08/May/96

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/95 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/95 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/May/95 with jon

craig h - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/94 with Luke Steer

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/92

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/92 with Alex

rob.grafton - 2nd - 10/Apr/92 with jim h, chris pugh, Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/91

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/91 with Phil Bent

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/91

NickJH - 2nd dog - Sep/91 with D Picker

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/87

Tom V - 1983

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam McCarthy, mapperley samurai, Leo Choi, SuperLee1985, hirving, gavinpeach, Siderunner, robin_hackney, BenedictIEP, philboy, Steve Waters, Mynydd, samrihughes, Chi Cheng, AsleepOnBelay, andybuckley, Davie Thomson, tommytwotone, hailtryfan, Sgt. Vest, Jim Vach

Total votes cast 182
hard E10 of 63
E11 of 63
easy E118 of 63
hard HVS20 of 63
HVS19 of 63
easy HVS3 of 63
hard VS2 of 63
VS0 of 63
easy VS0 of 63
hard 5c0 of 61
5c1 of 61
easy 5c7 of 61
hard 5b33 of 61
5b16 of 61
easy 5b3 of 61
hard 5a1 of 61
5a0 of 61
easy 5a0 of 61
3 Stars31 of 58
2 Stars20 of 58
1 Star6 of 58
0 Stars0 of 58
Bag of .....1 of 58
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP