UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

24m. It starts just 2 metres right from when the wall turns from white to red. Climb up and right to an small tree (4mts). Then up left to a cave using some roots for protection (4mts). From there slightly right to reach a second smaller cave or hollow (4mts). Move a metre right and then climb straight up the juggy slightly over hanged wall (crux, 3-4mts). Traverse left (3mts) and then up over an easy groove (5mts)

A Holmes, G Scott 06/Sep/1981.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Carter 6 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this route lacked gear even by Yat standards. The climbing is solid and good but of 5 runners 3 were tree/root/rock threads. Felt more like VS for pro - on reflection - pretty normal for the Yat!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this route lacked gear even by Yat standards. The climbing is solid and good but of 5 runners 3 were tree/root/rock threads. Felt more like VS for pro - on reflection - pretty normal for the Yat!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 35
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Left Hand Route

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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