UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

4m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The little left line.

Mike and Luke Hunt 2001.

Feedback

User Date Notes
TomC137 9 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like a large part of the left side of this has now fallen off... Friend got a bit further but came down as the rock near the top was also very loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like a large part of the left side of this has now fallen off... Friend got a bit further but came down as the rock near the top was also very loose.
dan_hipkiss 18 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top section all loose, best to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top section all loose, best to avoid
Mash100 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Yes the large horizontal juggy flake above second bolt is moving. It’s big enough to be a serious risk if it came off as it would fall directly on rope, bolt and possibly belayer. Bottom bolt taped and route marked with X
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes the large horizontal juggy flake above second bolt is moving. It’s big enough to be a serious risk if it came off as it would fall directly on rope, bolt and possibly belayer. Bottom bolt taped and route marked with X
Jamtin 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Juggy hold above second bolt feels loose
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Juggy hold above second bolt feels loose

Logged Ascents

186 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 48 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Loading Notifications...