Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Bailey 1983

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
samt 10/Oct Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Bit goey. Topped off a lovely day

Mark H
Felix la shat 27/Sep TR RP
daviesp2 08/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Shannyb 02/Aug TR dog
alex goodall 02/Aug TR dog
hipyhop 23/May TR dnf

Got up to the upper arÍte but didn't go any further to prevent a rope-grating swing

Hidden 16/May Lead O/S
Jackwd 10/May Lead RP

Finally, good to get this done. First E4.

charley 10/May Lead RP

Tried it on TR first. First E4!

Jono_LS16 04/May Lead G/U
robblowen 25/Jan 2nd rpt
robblowen 04/Jan Lead RP

Awesome! TR'd twice to make sure I had the moves then lead cleanly, felt solid.

ashtond6 04/Jan Lead rpt

after falling off Trout with light running out

robblowen 13/Dec/14 TR RP

Got clean second try, coming back for the lead.

deacondeacon 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Had to down climb from the crux last year when it started sleeting. Found this quite hard but it was cold and I didn't warm up. Cool route.

Stroppy 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Amazing onsight from Banksy

Albachoss 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 02/Nov/14 Lead rpt

fell off first time reversing the crux copying beta... did it my way first time! The gear is abit necky, big wire is good but it's held in by the RP and you weight the RP first...would have previously trusted the RP but saw many blown out in Yosemite!

bigdrew 05/Oct/14 Lead β

On Joe's gear

Joe Bawden
Teappleby 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

really fun. Becomes a bit eliminate at the top to avoid jumping round into brown's crack. But still great climbing if you resist the urge to. The gear isn't too bad. . .

Gambit 27/Sep/14 2nd dog

So glad I got to onsight lead this, just not the same on a top rope, obviously needed the fear of falling to get me through the crux on the lead! Great onsight Mark

Graeme Hammond 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

Previous dogged on 2nd, abseiled down to check out the move and the bomber gear that I'd borrowed then led. Excellent if a little eliminate at the top. (No hands or gear in crack)

Jen Maxfield, John Maxfield
al123 05/Aug/14 Lead β
lcullum7 30/Jul/14 2nd
kyaizawa 30/Jul/14 Lead β

First E4 lead - very very happy to have got this clean!! (thanks to Luke for having a look at the holds/gear from Brown's Crack). Mildly terrifying, and thought that the move to get up to the break below the pocket, above a lone ballnut and low friend was harder than the actual crux if only psychologically (struggled for reach).

theomoore 28/Jun/14 Lead G/U

should have onsighted it but was being a wuss. easier than Strangler at Plantation and that gets 5c.

WillDoyle 14/May/14 Lead

Technically I fell off but managed to catch myself and not weight the rope.

drysori 05/May/14 Lead
pipof747 04/May/14 Lead O/S
LJC 03/May/14 TR RP

Worked the gear and moves out, then clean on top rope 3 times.

Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
LJC 03/May/14 Lead RP

Second E4, first 6a lead. Crux was leaving the big ledge with poor gear in the first break. Small black alien in the second made the pocket move feel safe and easy.

Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
ianjfsutcliffe 29/Apr/14 TR rpt
climberchristy 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

My first E4! Crux is well protected, with microcams and microwires, and there is only one hard move. Top is run out but easy climbing above very good gear (5b max?) So, relatively soft for E4? But I'll take the tick anyway!

Ben Cole
bencole 18/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
treg 14/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Attempting to second Ben, but well out of my league at the mo.

Nye Meerkat 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S

led by Ben, cracking route, think i would've shit myself on the move up from the pocket on lead!

Hidden ??/2014 Lead
drysori 28/Dec/13 Lead
Andy Peak 1 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions, the pocket is as good as it looks

Cake 10/Nov/13 Lead β

First E4 and therefore also first "black spot" on a rockfax. Significant. Had gear beta from Mark, seconded Brown's crack just before for beta and watched another guy fall off the crux just before. How much help can a man get? It worked!

Dave, Matt
Matt Cooke 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Matt Marshall
marcduhig 29/Sep/13 Lead β
BillyRidal ?/Sep/13 Lead RP

wanted to onsight it but had no experience with RP's. Didn't think the gear was good but did it anyway. i'd like to go and do salmon left hand, i feel like using the arete at the top is a bit cop out when you haven;t used it for the rest of the climb.

The Big Sender 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf

the gear is bomber but still couldn't do it. too much leg to fold up! down climbed for another day.

Tithe Technique 01/Jun/13 TR dog
Hidden 19/May/13 TR dog
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 TR

Went for the lead but got put off by being rubbish, okay on top rope. I'll be back for this one.

Ethan 13/Mar/13 Lead
Sam Hamer
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/13 Lead β
Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
PeteWilson 17/Feb/13 TR
Hillson 17/Feb/13 TR β
Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
nathanlee 18/Nov/12 Lead β
cal91 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
Harry Chaplin 16/Nov/12 Lead rpt

did it 2nd go after slipping first time.Great route, small but bomber gear protecting the crux

J.Wells 11/Nov/12 Lead β
mark20 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead β
Lloyders 06/Oct/12 2nd
thefuturesmiles ?/Oct/12 Lead β

pre-placed gear at the crux.

ianjfsutcliffe 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Richard P Coates 16/Sep/12 2nd dnf
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Wightman
Joughton 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

My first grit E4, but it definitely felt easy for the grade. Probably only one 6a move past the first break where the pro isn't great, then runout but easy climbing to finish. Brilliant route though, gives a bit of a buzz!

Ed morris 19/Jun/12 TR RP

Felt ok when I used a decent sequence

Rich Kirby 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 30/Mar/12 TR RP

With Shunt. Really annoyed I got it wrong first go. Second go got right foot level with hands before getting the pocket, worked better.

Gambit 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight on grit. Get in! Crux felt intense but appears to be well protected.

Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead rpt
westaway 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S
cjb1992 06/Nov/11 TR β
BorisVBlade 06/Nov/11 TR RP
Hidden 06/Nov/11 TR dog
Owen W-G 29/Oct/11 Lead β

First E4, and first success on anything harder than E2 in 2 and half years. Semi beta flashed, since I'd seen the pics, knew to bring tiny cams and that sideways RPs were involved, and had also read a right hand/left hand debate about the pocket (from which I took a hybrid solution). Took an hour to protect and suss out the crux, laced with 5 runners so felt happy to commit, and only about E1-ish once you get the second break, thus maybe E3 6a overall but I'll claim the glory of breaking a new trad grade, probably for the final time, one day after 35th b'day.

bwestwood 28/Oct/11 Lead

fell few times on crux

pie_eater_pete 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Fergus Cuthill 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alison2 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Wish I'd lead it. Will return. Easier for the short by the feel of it and watching my rather tall partner struggle...

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Jack Whiteley 21/May/11 2nd O/S

Respect to anyone who leads this on-sight. Can only imagine what the more direct lines would be like!

Paul and Izzy
dominic lee 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Joe Grondowski 28/Mar/11 Lead β
John Lynch
john lynch 28/Mar/11 Lead
steve3489 28/Mar/11 Lead β
Lewis Andrew 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S
Andy S
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Oli 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Steady, just one tricky move. Took a while to figure it out, although I think I was being a bit dense, as usual.

irish paul 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Sarah Joyce
Fran S8 05/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd RP
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt

6b on trout proved too much !

Dave Reeve 18/Jul/10 TR O/S

Wet & windy so not sure about leading it that day but will try it on a better day..

Steve Cousins
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Good line, nice moves but unfortunately escapable.

Todd, Tom, Ivan
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
DuncanR 26/Apr/10 Lead

Good climbing, suspect gear

Scott Mckenzie
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Milne 23/Mar/10 2nd O/S

great route, pocket move felt tough for 6a, maybe as im quite short.

Jon_Warner 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

with runner in brown's crack at the top. Felt confident after a few goes on top rope.

Hidden 20/Mar/10 TR RP
gknyus 15/Mar/10 TR dog


Jon_Warner 14/Mar/10 TR rpt

Will lead next time. Gear is fine if placed correctly.

Peter Holder 13/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd dog
swoosh 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Pat Dawson
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
Nige Kershaw
Mr Powly 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
thomasadixon 31/Oct/09 Lead RP

Had tried previously and done with one rest in 5/09.

Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
tom.e 14/Oct/09 Lead β
lukea ?/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 27/Sep/09 TR dog
Alex Winter 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead β
mic_b 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead
colkurtz 18/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/09 TR
Coel Hellier 14/Jun/09 Lead
Reaver2k 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

They were trying to con me into trying to lead this, turns out I don't trust a collection of sliders and RP's as much as everyone else. Took two falls on the crux mantleshelf which I found really hard, and nearly fell on the top arete. One day I'll come back to lead when I'm feeling cocky.

Michael Watson, Tom Dixon
lukehunt 30/May/09 Lead β
DafSWMC 25/May/09 Lead O/S


Anthony Allsopp 24/Apr/09 Lead RP
Clare Curling (My best buddy)
Matt Bennett 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
freudy_love ??/2009 Lead RP
Orlov ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 16/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 29/Nov/08 Lead
Rick Graham
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd dnf
alaan 14/Sep/08 Lead

Very silly - climbing on grit again boggled me and I slumped on the first go but pulled ropes and myself together and did it...twice.

GrantB 13/Sep/08 2nd
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Put the side runner in at the top but only 'cause Tyler said it was ok....

Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 23/Aug/08 Lead β

Not quite the pure onsight... Saw several people both succeed and fail, plus plenty of shouted up advice. Good route; suits the bouldering wall trained climber!

climbergg 23/Aug/08 2nd
Franco Cookson OLD 16/Jul/08 Lead rpt

Had intended on doing salmon left hand, but thought i'd leave it for another day. ;-)

Joe Dove 12/Jul/08 TR
Mr Sparkle 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Ben Hayley
Jim Slater 15/Jun/08 2nd dog

Attempted 6a crux a couple of times and failed. Much too hard for me but fun trying.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Franco Cookson OLD 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S

E3. Really good though.

b.hayley ?/Jun/08 2nd
vvanhinsbergh 26/Apr/08 TR dnf
Ian Broome 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Almost levitated the crux, somehow all of a sudden was at the break. Most enjoyable. Stiched it up with RPs

Luke Brooks 06/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Will Hunt ??/2008 Lead O/S

First "E4" onsight. Felt much much easier than the grade suggests methinks.

Bry Lowe
Ram MkiV 06/Nov/07 Lead

did it with left hand in the pocket. despite good conditions and total confidence in the gear, still didn't feel like the soft touch everyone says it is. Very good sequence though. Was intending to try Trout today but couldn't get going on it so finished up the arete. 16/11/05 previously failed on

Hidden 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
dave evans
Somerset swede basher 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Sarah Stirling & Nick Payne
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd dog
Alex Mason 08/Jul/07 Lead

Having failed to top rope 2 yrs ago on every section, then failed to lead in perfect coniditions 1yr ago, lead with 1 fall at crux this time round just after a huge downpour in the sun, brilliant little move , followed by exciting arete sprinting.

mick radford
Hidden 14/May/07 TR
Iggy_B 30/Apr/07 Lead O/S

It actually takes a 00 cam next to some of the tiny nuts, it looked like it would hold. Plenty of small nuts anyway.

Brown 18/Apr/07 Lead RP

ground up

Tommy G ?/Jan/07 -

Great. Took a fall onto the RP's. Held fine

Emma Twyford
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 TR RP
Joe Costello 11/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Lead
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/06 2nd
willackers ??/2006 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Lewis Ashton
dominic lee 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
daniel lee
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead β
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
cornishben ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
Chris Sims
chris sm ?/Aug/05 2nd β
lukea 27/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Chris M ??/2005 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/04 2nd O/S
jonnyboy 09/Oct/04 Lead RP
Brian Rodgers ?/Oct/04 Lead β

One commiting move. Nice, but a bit unbalanced.

tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Rich Malcolm 25/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Paul Brennan
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Read ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Matt Gallagher
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 71
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set