Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder. © Rockfax
FA. Andy Bailey 1983
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Brilliant route. Bit goey. Topped off a lovely day
|Felix la shat||27/Sep||TR RP|
|alex goodall||02/Aug||TR dog|
Got up to the upper arÍte but didn't go any further to prevent a rope-grating swing
Finally, good to get this done. First E4.
Tried it on TR first. First E4!
Awesome! TR'd twice to make sure I had the moves then lead cleanly, felt solid.
after falling off Trout with light running out
Got clean second try, coming back for the lead.
Had to down climb from the crux last year when it started sleeting. Found this quite hard but it was cold and I didn't warm up. Cool route.
Amazing onsight from Banksy
fell off first time reversing the crux copying beta... did it my way first time! The gear is abit necky, big wire is good but it's held in by the RP and you weight the RP first...would have previously trusted the RP but saw many blown out in Yosemite!
On Joe's gear
really fun. Becomes a bit eliminate at the top to avoid jumping round into brown's crack. But still great climbing if you resist the urge to. The gear isn't too bad. . .
So glad I got to onsight lead this, just not the same on a top rope, obviously needed the fear of falling to get me through the crux on the lead! Great onsight Mark
|Graeme Hammond||21/Sep/14||Lead RP||
Previous dogged on 2nd, abseiled down to check out the move and the bomber gear that I'd borrowed then led. Excellent if a little eliminate at the top. (No hands or gear in crack)
Jen Maxfield, John Maxfield
First E4 lead - very very happy to have got this clean!! (thanks to Luke for having a look at the holds/gear from Brown's Crack). Mildly terrifying, and thought that the move to get up to the break below the pocket, above a lone ballnut and low friend was harder than the actual crux if only psychologically (struggled for reach).
should have onsighted it but was being a wuss. easier than Strangler at Plantation and that gets 5c.
Technically I fell off but managed to catch myself and not weight the rope.
Worked the gear and moves out, then clean on top rope 3 times.
Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
Second E4, first 6a lead. Crux was leaving the big ledge with poor gear in the first break. Small black alien in the second made the pocket move feel safe and easy.
Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
My first E4! Crux is well protected, with microcams and microwires, and there is only one hard move. Top is run out but easy climbing above very good gear (5b max?) So, relatively soft for E4? But I'll take the tick anyway!
Attempting to second Ben, but well out of my league at the mo.
|Nye Meerkat||14/Mar/14||2nd O/S||
led by Ben, cracking route, think i would've shit myself on the move up from the pocket on lead!
|Andy Peak 1||25/Nov/13||Lead O/S||
Perfect conditions, the pocket is as good as it looks
First E4 and therefore also first "black spot" on a rockfax. Significant. Had gear beta from Mark, seconded Brown's crack just before for beta and watched another guy fall off the crux just before. How much help can a man get? It worked!
|Matt Cooke||05/Oct/13||Lead O/S||
wanted to onsight it but had no experience with RP's. Didn't think the gear was good but did it anyway. i'd like to go and do salmon left hand, i feel like using the arete at the top is a bit cop out when you haven;t used it for the rest of the climb.
|The Big Sender||26/Jun/13||Lead dnf||
the gear is bomber but still couldn't do it. too much leg to fold up! down climbed for another day.
|Tithe Technique||01/Jun/13||TR dog|
Went for the lead but got put off by being rubbish, okay on top rope. I'll be back for this one.
|kate tarrant||?/Mar/13||2nd dog|
Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
|Harry Chaplin||16/Nov/12||Lead rpt||
did it 2nd go after slipping first time.Great route, small but bomber gear protecting the crux
pre-placed gear at the crux.
|Richard P Coates||16/Sep/12||2nd dnf|
My first grit E4, but it definitely felt easy for the grade. Probably only one 6a move past the first break where the pro isn't great, then runout but easy climbing to finish. Brilliant route though, gives a bit of a buzz!
|Ed morris||19/Jun/12||TR RP||
Felt ok when I used a decent sequence
|Rich Kirby||12/May/12||Lead O/S|
|Daniel Heath||30/Mar/12||TR RP||
With Shunt. Really annoyed I got it wrong first go. Second go got right foot level with hands before getting the pocket, worked better.
First E4 onsight on grit. Get in! Crux felt intense but appears to be well protected.
|Nick Sillem||??/2012||Lead rpt|
|Owen W-G||29/Oct/11||Lead β||
First E4, and first success on anything harder than E2 in 2 and half years. Semi beta flashed, since I'd seen the pics, knew to bring tiny cams and that sideways RPs were involved, and had also read a right hand/left hand debate about the pocket (from which I took a hybrid solution). Took an hour to protect and suss out the crux, laced with 5 runners so felt happy to commit, and only about E1-ish once you get the second break, thus maybe E3 6a overall but I'll claim the glory of breaking a new trad grade, probably for the final time, one day after 35th b'day.
fell few times on crux
|Fergus Cuthill||16/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
Wish I'd lead it. Will return. Easier for the short by the feel of it and watching my rather tall partner struggle...
|Jack Whiteley||21/May/11||2nd O/S||
Respect to anyone who leads this on-sight. Can only imagine what the more direct lines would be like!
Paul and Izzy
|dominic lee||16/Apr/11||Lead rpt|
|Joe Grondowski||28/Mar/11||Lead β||
|Lewis Andrew||28/Mar/11||Lead O/S|
Steady, just one tricky move. Took a while to figure it out, although I think I was being a bit dense, as usual.
|irish paul||17/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
6b on trout proved too much !
|Dave Reeve||18/Jul/10||TR O/S||
Wet & windy so not sure about leading it that day but will try it on a better day..
Good line, nice moves but unfortunately escapable.
Todd, Tom, Ivan
Good climbing, suspect gear
great route, pocket move felt tough for 6a, maybe as im quite short.
with runner in brown's crack at the top. Felt confident after a few goes on top rope.
Will lead next time. Gear is fine if placed correctly.
|Peter Holder||13/Mar/10||Lead β|
|Mr Powly||31/Oct/09||Lead dog|
Had tried previously and done with one rest in 5/09.
|Alex Winter||29/Aug/09||Lead RP|
They were trying to con me into trying to lead this, turns out I don't trust a collection of sliders and RP's as much as everyone else. Took two falls on the crux mantleshelf which I found really hard, and nearly fell on the top arete. One day I'll come back to lead when I'm feeling cocky.
Michael Watson, Tom Dixon
|Anthony Allsopp||24/Apr/09||Lead RP||
Clare Curling (My best buddy)
|Matt Bennett||29/Mar/09||Lead rpt|
Very silly - climbing on grit again boggled me and I slumped on the first go but pulled ropes and myself together and did it...twice.
|chris sm||23/Aug/08||Lead rpt||
Put the side runner in at the top but only 'cause Tyler said it was ok....
|Tim M||23/Aug/08||Lead β||
Not quite the pure onsight... Saw several people both succeed and fail, plus plenty of shouted up advice. Good route; suits the bouldering wall trained climber!
|Franco Cookson OLD||16/Jul/08||Lead rpt||
Had intended on doing salmon left hand, but thought i'd leave it for another day. ;-)
|Mr Sparkle||28/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
|Jim Slater||15/Jun/08||2nd dog||
Attempted 6a crux a couple of times and failed. Much too hard for me but fun trying.
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||08/Jun/08||Lead rpt|
|Franco Cookson OLD||03/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
E3. Really good though.
|Ian Broome||23/Feb/08||Lead O/S||
Almost levitated the crux, somehow all of a sudden was at the break. Most enjoyable. Stiched it up with RPs
|Luke Brooks||06/Feb/08||Lead O/S|
|Will Hunt||??/2008||Lead O/S||
First "E4" onsight. Felt much much easier than the grade suggests methinks.
did it with left hand in the pocket. despite good conditions and total confidence in the gear, still didn't feel like the soft touch everyone says it is. Very good sequence though. Was intending to try Trout today but couldn't get going on it so finished up the arete. 16/11/05 previously failed on
|Toby Dunn||21/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
|Somerset swede basher||22/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
Sarah Stirling & Nick Payne
Having failed to top rope 2 yrs ago on every section, then failed to lead in perfect coniditions 1yr ago, lead with 1 fall at crux this time round just after a huge downpour in the sun, brilliant little move , followed by exciting arete sprinting.
It actually takes a 00 cam next to some of the tiny nuts, it looked like it would hold. Plenty of small nuts anyway.
Great. Took a fall onto the RP's. Held fine
|Joe Costello||11/Jul/06||Lead rpt||
|dominic lee||02/Oct/05||Lead O/S||
|chris sm||?/Aug/05||2nd β|
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||10/Oct/04||2nd O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||?/Oct/04||Lead β||
One commiting move. Nice, but a bit unbalanced.
|Rich Malcolm||25/Oct/03||Lead O/S||
|Jon Read||?/Mar/98||Lead O/S||