Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Bailey 1983

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Sam Marks 31/Oct Lead O/S

Nice to eventually get to bamford to do it!

with Will Stokes, Ben Mitchell, Arran Greenop
arrang 31/Oct Lead β
Benjamin Mitchell 31/Oct Lead β
with Sam Marks
pastep 25/Oct Lead

Abseil, Clean on top rope, T.R trying gear, Lead. Good gear all the way. Bomber nut 2 & friend 00 for the crux.

amccann 17/Oct Lead G/U

First had a go this time last year, didn't commit t the move then and downclimbed. Move felt pretty easy this time, committed to it first go.

with Nina
dom94 17/Oct Lead β

Watched Alex climb it and the gear was pre placed, but it doesn't make a lot of difference on this climb. Really just one very hard move, and if you have enough really small cams I reckon its pretty safe.

with NNNNina, alex mccann
ninastirrup 17/Oct 2nd
samt 10/Oct Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Bit goey. Topped off a lovely day

with Mark H
Felix la shat 27/Sep TR RP
with Louis
daviesp2 08/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Shannyb 02/Aug TR dog
alex goodall 02/Aug TR dog
with Shannyb
hipyhop 23/May TR dnf

Got up to the upper arÍte but didn't go any further to prevent a rope-grating swing

with Cherelle
PLM 16/May Lead O/S
with Ruairi
Jackwd 10/May Lead RP

Finally, good to get this done. First E4.

charley 10/May Lead RP

Tried it on TR first. First E4!

with JackD
Jono_LS16 04/May Lead G/U
robblowen 25/Jan 2nd rpt
robblowen 04/Jan Lead RP

Awesome! TR'd twice to make sure I had the moves then lead cleanly, felt solid.

with Jonny
ashtond6 04/Jan Lead rpt

after falling off Trout with light running out

robblowen 13/Dec/14 TR RP

Got clean second try, coming back for the lead.

with Jonny
deacondeacon 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Had to down climb from the crux last year when it started sleeting. Found this quite hard but it was cold and I didn't warm up. Cool route.

Stroppy 02/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Amazing onsight from Banksy

Albachoss 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Ed
ashtond6 02/Nov/14 Lead rpt

fell off first time reversing the crux copying beta... did it my way first time! The gear is abit necky, big wire is good but it's held in by the RP and you weight the RP first...would have previously trusted the RP but saw many blown out in Yosemite!

bigdrew 05/Oct/14 Lead β

On Joe's gear

with Joe Bawden
Teappleby 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

really fun. Becomes a bit eliminate at the top to avoid jumping round into brown's crack. But still great climbing if you resist the urge to. The gear isn't too bad. . .

Gambit 27/Sep/14 2nd dog

So glad I got to onsight lead this, just not the same on a top rope, obviously needed the fear of falling to get me through the crux on the lead! Great onsight Mark

Graeme Hammond 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

Previous dogged on 2nd, abseiled down to check out the move and the bomber gear that I'd borrowed then led. Excellent if a little eliminate at the top. (No hands or gear in crack)

with Jen Maxfield, John Maxfield
al123 05/Aug/14 Lead β
with Henry
lcullum7 30/Jul/14 2nd
kyaizawa 30/Jul/14 Lead β

First E4 lead - very very happy to have got this clean!! (thanks to Luke for having a look at the holds/gear from Brown's Crack). Mildly terrifying, and thought that the move to get up to the break below the pocket, above a lone ballnut and low friend was harder than the actual crux if only psychologically (struggled for reach).

theomoore 28/Jun/14 Lead G/U

should have onsighted it but was being a wuss. easier than Strangler at Plantation and that gets 5c.

with Roisin
WillDoyle 14/May/14 Lead

Technically I fell off but managed to catch myself and not weight the rope.

drysori 05/May/14 Lead
pipof747 04/May/14 Lead O/S
LJC 03/May/14 TR RP

Worked the gear and moves out, then clean on top rope 3 times.

with Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
LJC 03/May/14 Lead RP

Second E4, first 6a lead. Crux was leaving the big ledge with poor gear in the first break. Small black alien in the second made the pocket move feel safe and easy.

with Adrian, Euge, Sully, Phill
ianjfsutcliffe 29/Apr/14 TR rpt
with Jonny
climberchristy 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

My first E4! Crux is well protected, with microcams and microwires, and there is only one hard move. Top is run out but easy climbing above very good gear (5b max?) So, relatively soft for E4? But I'll take the tick anyway!

with Ben Cole
bencole 18/Apr/14 Lead β
with Christy
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
treg 14/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Attempting to second Ben, but well out of my league at the mo.

with Ben
Nye Meerkat 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S

led by Ben, cracking route, think i would've shit myself on the move up from the pocket on lead!

Hidden ??/2014 Lead
drysori 28/Dec/13 Lead
Andy Peak 1 25/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions, the pocket is as good as it looks

Cake 10/Nov/13 Lead β

First E4 and therefore also first "black spot" on a rockfax. Significant. Had gear beta from Mark, seconded Brown's crack just before for beta and watched another guy fall off the crux just before. How much help can a man get? It worked!

with Dave, Matt
Matt Cooke 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Marshall
marcduhig 29/Sep/13 Lead β
with Haydn
BillyRidal 02/Sep/13 Lead RP

wanted to onsight it but had no experience with RP's. Didn't think the gear was good but did it anyway. i'd like to go and do salmon left hand, i feel like using the arete at the top is a bit cop out when you haven;t used it for the rest of the climb.

The Big Sender 26/Jun/13 Lead dnf

the gear is bomber but still couldn't do it. too much leg to fold up! down climbed for another day.

Tithe Technique 01/Jun/13 TR dog
Jackwd 01/Jun/13 TR O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 TR dog
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 TR

Went for the lead but got put off by being rubbish, okay on top rope. I'll be back for this one.

Ethan 13/Mar/13 Lead
with Sam Hamer
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
PeteWilson 17/Feb/13 TR
Hillson 17/Feb/13 TR β
with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
nathanlee 18/Nov/12 Lead β
cal91 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
Harry Chaplin 16/Nov/12 Lead rpt

did it 2nd go after slipping first time.Great route, small but bomber gear protecting the crux

J.Wells 11/Nov/12 Lead β
mark20 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead β
Lloyders 06/Oct/12 2nd
thefuturesmiles ?/Oct/12 Lead β

pre-placed gear at the crux.

ianjfsutcliffe 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 16/Sep/12 2nd dnf
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew Wightman
Joughton 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

My first grit E4, but it definitely felt easy for the grade. Probably only one 6a move past the first break where the pro isn't great, then runout but easy climbing to finish. Brilliant route though, gives a bit of a buzz!

Ed morris 19/Jun/12 TR RP

Felt ok when I used a decent sequence

Rich Kirby 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Daniel Heath 30/Mar/12 TR RP

With Shunt. Really annoyed I got it wrong first go. Second go got right foot level with hands before getting the pocket, worked better.

Gambit 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight on grit. Get in! Crux felt intense but appears to be well protected.

with Barney
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead rpt
westaway 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S
cjb1992 06/Nov/11 TR β
with Boris
BorisVBlade 06/Nov/11 TR RP
Hidden 06/Nov/11 TR dog
Owen W-G 29/Oct/11 Lead β

First E4, and first success on anything harder than E2 in 2 and half years. Semi beta flashed, since I'd seen the pics, knew to bring tiny cams and that sideways RPs were involved, and had also read a right hand/left hand debate about the pocket (from which I took a hybrid solution). Took an hour to protect and suss out the crux, laced with 5 runners so felt happy to commit, and only about E1-ish once you get the second break, thus maybe E3 6a overall but I'll claim the glory of breaking a new trad grade, probably for the final time, one day after 35th b'day.

with Gav
bwestwood 28/Oct/11 Lead

fell few times on crux

pie_eater_pete 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Fergus Cuthill 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alison2 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Wish I'd lead it. Will return. Easier for the short by the feel of it and watching my rather tall partner struggle...

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Jack Whiteley 21/May/11 2nd O/S

Respect to anyone who leads this on-sight. Can only imagine what the more direct lines would be like!

with Paul and Izzy
dominic lee 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Joe Grondowski 28/Mar/11 Lead β
with John Lynch
john lynch 28/Mar/11 Lead
steve3489 28/Mar/11 Lead β
Lewis Andrew 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Andy S
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Oli 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Steady, just one tricky move. Took a while to figure it out, although I think I was being a bit dense, as usual.

irish paul 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Fran S8 05/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd RP
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt

6b on trout proved too much !

Dave Reeve 18/Jul/10 TR O/S

Wet & windy so not sure about leading it that day but will try it on a better day..

with Steve Cousins
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd dnf
Tez29 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Good line, nice moves but unfortunately escapable.

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
DuncanR 26/Apr/10 Lead

Good climbing, suspect gear

with Scott Mckenzie
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Milne 23/Mar/10 2nd O/S

great route, pocket move felt tough for 6a, maybe as im quite short.

Jon_Warner 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

with runner in brown's crack at the top. Felt confident after a few goes on top rope.

with mic_b
Hidden 20/Mar/10 TR RP
gknyus 15/Mar/10 TR dog


Jon_Warner 14/Mar/10 TR rpt

Will lead next time. Gear is fine if placed correctly.

with Edan
Peter Holder 13/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd dog
swoosh 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Pat Dawson
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Mr Powly 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
thomasadixon 31/Oct/09 Lead RP

Had tried previously and done with one rest in 5/09.

Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
tom.e 14/Oct/09 Lead β
with Malcolm
lukea ?/Oct/09 Lead β
with felix
Hidden 27/Sep/09 TR dog
Alex Winter 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead β
mic_b 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead
colkurtz 18/Aug/09 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/09 TR
Coel Hellier 14/Jun/09 Lead
Reaver2k 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

They were trying to con me into trying to lead this, turns out I don't trust a collection of sliders and RP's as much as everyone else. Took two falls on the crux mantleshelf which I found really hard, and nearly fell on the top arete. One day I'll come back to lead when I'm feeling cocky.

with Michael Watson, Tom Dixon
lukehunt 30/May/09 Lead β
with francocookson
DafSWMC 25/May/09 Lead O/S


with Eefu
Anthony Allsopp 24/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Clare Curling (My best buddy)
Matt Bennett 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
freudy_love ??/2009 Lead RP
Orlov ??/2009 Lead O/S
with sarah
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 16/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 29/Nov/08 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd dnf
alaan 14/Sep/08 Lead

Very silly - climbing on grit again boggled me and I slumped on the first go but pulled ropes and myself together and did it...twice.

with Grant
GrantB 13/Sep/08 2nd
with Alaan
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Put the side runner in at the top but only 'cause Tyler said it was ok....

with Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 23/Aug/08 Lead β

Not quite the pure onsight... Saw several people both succeed and fail, plus plenty of shouted up advice. Good route; suits the bouldering wall trained climber!

with Emma
climbergg 23/Aug/08 2nd
Franco Cookson OLD 16/Jul/08 Lead rpt

Had intended on doing salmon left hand, but thought i'd leave it for another day. ;-)

with Antwan
Joe Dove 12/Jul/08 TR
with kev
Mr Sparkle 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Hayley
Jim Slater 15/Jun/08 2nd dog

Attempted 6a crux a couple of times and failed. Much too hard for me but fun trying.

Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Franco Cookson OLD 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S

E3. Really good though.

b.hayley ?/Jun/08 2nd
vvanhinsbergh 26/Apr/08 TR dnf
Ian Broome 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Almost levitated the crux, somehow all of a sudden was at the break. Most enjoyable. Stiched it up with RPs

with Matt
Luke Brooks 06/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Will Hunt ??/2008 Lead O/S

First "E4" onsight. Felt much much easier than the grade suggests methinks.

with Bry Lowe
Ram MkiV 06/Nov/07 Lead

did it with left hand in the pocket. despite good conditions and total confidence in the gear, still didn't feel like the soft touch everyone says it is. Very good sequence though. Was intending to try Trout today but couldn't get going on it so finished up the arete. 16/11/05 previously failed on

with barrows
Hidden 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Somerset swede basher 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stirling & Nick Payne
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd dog
Alex Mason 08/Jul/07 Lead

Having failed to top rope 2 yrs ago on every section, then failed to lead in perfect coniditions 1yr ago, lead with 1 fall at crux this time round just after a huge downpour in the sun, brilliant little move , followed by exciting arete sprinting.

with mick radford
Hidden 14/May/07 TR
Iggy_B 30/Apr/07 Lead O/S

It actually takes a 00 cam next to some of the tiny nuts, it looked like it would hold. Plenty of small nuts anyway.

with Nick
Brown 18/Apr/07 Lead RP

ground up

with John
Tommy G ?/Jan/07 -

Great. Took a fall onto the RP's. Held fine

with Emma Twyford
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
with dave
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 TR RP
Joe Costello 11/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Matt
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Sion
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Lead
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/06 2nd
with David
willackers ??/2006 Lead O/S
with M.Stott
goi.ashmore 09/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Lewis Ashton
dominic lee 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead β
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
cornishben ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Chris Sims
chris sm ?/Aug/05 2nd β
lukea 27/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with shannon
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Chris M ??/2005 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/04 2nd O/S
jonnyboy 09/Oct/04 Lead RP
Brian Rodgers ?/Oct/04 Lead β

One commiting move. Nice, but a bit unbalanced.

mikeski ?/Oct/04 2nd
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Rich Malcolm 25/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Brennan
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead β
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Read ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Matt Gallagher
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 72
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set