Wrong Hand Route** E1 5c
[Getting the right hand, 3 kb]10m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning crack has a useful pocket and is well named.
A technical gem where forward planning will help. © ROCKFAX

FA. John Gosling 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Getting the right hand © steveb2006
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 209 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

On Bens gear.
amccann - Lead β - 03/Nov/14 with Shaun H, Ben Kelsey

good gear and easy moves to bomber jams
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/14 with Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys

On bens Gear, felt supprisingly ok
shaunhumphreys - Lead β - 03/Nov/14 with Alex M, benkelsey

John Bish - Lead - 18/Oct/14 with James Martin

John Bish - 2nd - 04/Oct/14 with James Martin

Only got it when I ignored all this hand stuff and climbed it
Gambit - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Royston

simon1965 - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/14 with James

Stig - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14 with Simon1965

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Sep/14

AdamPrzeslak - TR dnf - 14/Sep/14 with Steph Ward

DavidR - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Holly Adamthwaite

short but packs a punch! good route
PeteWilson - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Dave

Tricky, sustained and sequency, though there are bomber jams post-crux; probably a bit stiff at E1.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Emma Reynolds

Emma Reynolds - 2nd RP - 30/Jul/14 with Ky Aizawa

The holds are all there but they're not that easy to use, pretty sequency and strong, tried it a few times but couldn't get my right hand in the pocket (no way I was getting up without my left hand in there) Tom eventually figured out a sequence but took a fall after the vertical crack cos it was really scrittly and dirty. I can see how it's supposed to be an E1 but it doesn't feel like it.
Guy Atkinson - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Tom Butterworth

MrBIond - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Ed Teale

mrteale - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with MrBlond

theomoore - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Roisin

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/14

WillDoyle - Solo - 17/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/14

Lazytraveller - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Ric Elliot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Apr/14

drysori - Lead - 04/Apr/14

Hard start, easy middle , loads of gear, then technical hard finish
rurp - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with bill farmer

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Sep/13

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/13 with James Lismore

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/13

Gudge - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Coel Hellier

Crossed through to the undercut. Getting off the floor took a while to figure out!
dprctr - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Imogen Fish

Brilliant route. Figured out the sequence fairly quickly, but didn't commit and needlessly rested on the rope on the crux. Anyway, led again clean. Great route with really nice moves. Left hand in the pocket, right on the undercut and then match.
gavinpeach - Lead RP - 29/Jun/13 with Simon Piron

Nice route, first 5C for me. i think my massive ape index helped avoid any necessity to use good technique.
The Norris - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Gavin

Nathaniel Larsson - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Louise Hall

Such a frustrating climb. It made me forget how to climb, embarassingly scrappy and I just couldn't swap my hands in the pocket or find a non-strong way to get past the crux. I will be very happy if I get that in the future.
Louise Hall - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13 with Nathaniel Gjoderum-Symons

nick ferro - Lead dog - 19/May/13 with toolboxtim

slacky - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Ben

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/13

giuly - TR dog - 19/May/13 with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard

Sam Cooke - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13

Tadams - Lead dog - 24/Feb/13

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2013

oi_now - 2nd - 2013

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

nice little route, V. Well protected after the starting arete. Right hand in the pocket for the win!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with CCJohnD

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/Oct/12

Excellent. Technical and superb throughout. Gear is fantastic
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Ben Cole

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Sep/12

sparkass - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/12

Climbster - 2nd β - 02/Sep/12 with Ian

A tricky little blighter nearly blew my on-sight.
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Matt

A couple of hard moves but well protected. Couldn't get the lay back to the pocket without aid.
antdav - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/12 with Ian Routledge

pete1993 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Pete

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Nicola

johang - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with James Lawson

Nice, not too obvious. Classic E1 short climb.
Compo - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Hannah

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/12

Trevera - Lead - 04/Aug/12 with nick sillem

Failed to engage correct launch sequence
Adrianw - 2nd dnf - 04/Aug/12 with Sarah Follmann

cool route. amazing little moving.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jon Stewart

jwpil - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Deacon

I almost certainly did this with the wrong hand in 'the hold' but it worked. Lovely route packs a lot in for a short pitch and a short climber.
SGD - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Vicky Holmes

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Cameron

Although I think Will did what I would have done anyway, it was much easier having just watched someone else deal with the wrong hand bit. :-)
cameron_hall - 2nd β - 15/Jul/12 with Will Benfold

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 19/Jun/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/12 with Andrew Deacon

tall person beta makes this a pretty nice hvs
mwatson - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with Mike W

Rich Kirby - Solo - 12/May/12 with Ruth

That move felt properly hard---I'm sure a longer pair of arms would help!
stuaart - 2nd dog - 14/Apr/12 with Neil Redgrave

stefie c - 2nd - 30/Mar/12 with John Powell

powellj69 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Stefie Cray

Nice start (again) but pretty steady- doesn't actually matter which way round your hands are- easy enough to swap them over- very well protected
Twisty - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12 with Byron Buck

Andy Peak 1 - 2012

jshields - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Dave Scott

Attempted on Nick's gear. Got the pocket/undercut but didn't commit above. Lame...
Hardonicus - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/11 with nick a, Luke Donaldson

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Andy Hardy - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

My first E1 lead. The short jamming crack above the difficulties was very well received.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Pete

Didn't commit once had the pocket. So Andre led instead and followed on second Lovely, but tough.
Dave89 - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/11 with Andre

tradguy - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with John Mitchener

Hidden - 29/Jul/11

JRae - Lead - 18/May/11 with A Saul

cragtyke - 2nd - 08/May/11 with john g

Brown - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with Gabriel

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

Ace route.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with Will Ward

dominic lee - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/11 with nathan lee

Preety straightforward,it's the name that confused me.I spent ages climbing up and down trying to get my right hand in the pocket, as soon as i committed to left hand in pocket in went preety simply.
Adam Moroz - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with john (Krank)

Tamati - Lead dnf - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/11

well named but realy good route!
Tom Redmond - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with david knight, Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Dave Knight, Tom Redmond

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10

Went up to the pocket with left hand and then decided it was wrong so tried to downclimb but had to rest on gear. Went up again with left hand in pocket and put right hand over to the undercut then matched on the undercut - so much easier than trying to reach the pocket with my right hand!
BeccaSnowden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Had seen Al do it first. Seemed fairly obvious what to do though, just wasn't sure it was possible to reach that far!
thomasadixon - Lead β - 24/Oct/10 with Mike, Becca, Alan

ojp - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Dave

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with kind strangers

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Si

Ground up second go
mark20 - Lead RP - 10/Oct/10

With Marks gear insitu.
bigdrew - Lead β - 10/Oct/10 with Mark R

schaff - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Tim

thetourist - TR O/S - 02/Oct/10

willsm11 - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Twisty

Twisty - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Will Smith

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/10

Danny Crump - TR - 10/Jul/10 with Richard Vaughan, Sarah Pentelow

LiL Saz - TR - 10/Jul/10 with Danny Crump

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/10 with federico

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/10

great fun!
john lynch - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Ant King, Neil Elmore

aking12 - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with john lynch

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/10

just brilliant, thought the start was as hard as anything higher, awsome pull off the pocket for the crux, found myself laughing all the way up this. got to be worth 2 stars.
Milne - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/10 with dave saxby

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2010

Boy - Nov/09 with Nige Kershaw

tom.e - Lead β - 31/Oct/09 with Malcolm

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/09

leon - Lead - 26/Sep/09 with Steven Davidson

Phill Mitch - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with gaz

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/09

MD - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/09 with Ian W

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/09 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

Straigthforward once I'd worked it out and got the correct hand in the pocket (although the guy before me did it wit hthe other hand in, so hey ho). Crux for me was leaving the ground.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary

spacey - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with paul evans

altairego - 2nd - 09/Jun/09 with Jim and Paul

joese7en - Lead rpt - Jun/09

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/May/09

UndeRsoGGycrAg - TR β - 30/May/09 with Steve

chrisjones199 - TR dog - 25/May/09 with Mark Batey

Easy to work out the correct sequence before you start climbing.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Cat Black

Ran out of strength after the hard bit. Really annoying!
LakesWinter - Lead dnf - 02/May/09 with Cake

Nice pebble-jam left left me with a mark for days
Cake - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Matt

mjeffery - 2nd - 18/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/09

after failed lead, andy dog lead with gear in
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/09 with Andy Winter

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Mar/09

Had one rest, disappointed not to get the on-site. Excellent route.
Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 01/Mar/09 with Shaun Walby

jiles - Lead - 2009 with alexzander89

Hidden - 2009

Ben Harper - Lead dog - 13/Sep/08 with Andy Webster

Barely got off the floor.
mullermn - 2nd dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Monkey

Monk - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08

tlr - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with James Turnbull

Joe Dove - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with kev

Ian Broome - Lead β - 16/Feb/08 with Tanya

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd β - 25/Nov/07

Hidden - Solo RP - 04/Nov/07

wolverine - Sep/07 with John Nightingale

I reckon Adam got the more usual sequence, but I found it much easier just to use the wrong hand!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07 with Adam Carless

By a completely different sequence to everyone else - no surprise there.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/07 with pythonist

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/07

Mick r - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Cragdog al

Great route
craig d - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Simon Kincaid

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 28/Apr/07

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with John

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/07

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 25/Dec/06

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Aug/06

as the name suggests... :D
loonyclimber - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Ian

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Liam

Lex_2004 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Piers Hemsley

featuresforfeet - 2nd dog - 29/Jan/06 with Fiend

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/06

Hidden - Solo β - 21/Jan/06

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jan/06

Dave Musgrove - Lead - Jan/06 with David

Nicos - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05 with rich howels

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/05

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/05

class route underrated 3* definately wud have another go. gr8 moves
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - May/05 with lee robinson

chris sm - 2nd O/S - Apr/05 with Ben Sutton

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

Chris M - 2005

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 10/Oct/04

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/04 with Daniel Armitage

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/04

tuftynick - Lead - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/99

Billg - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/99 with Phil McAllistair

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/92 with colin, baccy

shark - Solo O/S - 09/May/87 with Phill Dickens

Mark Kemball - Solo - 29/Nov/82 with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OliverRoss, iceaxejuggler, Dan Lane

Total votes cast 196
hard E20 of 67
E20 of 67
easy E26 of 67
hard E124 of 67
E133 of 67
easy E13 of 67
hard HVS1 of 67
HVS0 of 67
easy HVS0 of 67
hard 6a0 of 67
6a0 of 67
easy 6a3 of 67
hard 5c10 of 67
5c47 of 67
easy 5c3 of 67
hard 5b4 of 67
5b0 of 67
easy 5b0 of 67
3 Stars13 of 62
2 Stars38 of 62
1 Star10 of 62
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP