Rockfax Description
The leaning crack has a useful pocket and is well named.
A technical gem where forward planning will help. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

arrang 31/Oct Lead O/S
dom94 17/Oct Lead β

Paddy fell of then I led it mostly on his gear, adding a few pieces of my own, nice route!

with Paddy
Duncan Campbell 17/Oct Sent β

Brilliant little route and well worth highballing. That pocket is just made to hold!

with The Wald, Dan Middleton, Will P-S, GuyVG
griffithpatrick 17/Oct Lead dnf

Fell off near the top. Thank god that hastily placed cam held me

griffithpatrick 17/Oct 2nd rpt

Dom led. It was ok second time.

climberchristy 17/Oct Lead rpt

Climbed in dampish conditions as a bit of a warm up for harder routes later. Great little route.

with Ben Cole
GuyVG 17/Oct Sent O/S
ralphio 25/Sep Lead O/S

Delightful moves.

with Marcin
chrismadar 20/Sep Lead O/S

Not sure if I can claim the onsight but there doesn't appear to be an option for 'Craig gave up half way so somebody needed to get the gear'. A really nice technical route with some pretty cool moves up to the pocket if you go with the right hand!

ned_85 13/Sep -
with Mike, Ryan Baird
Hidden 05/Sep Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd
drewish 02/Aug Lead β
with SteveE9
Rosie Henstock 11/Jul 2nd dog

Rope got stuck behind a cam in the upper crack. Took some careful nut key work to get it out!

TGreen 11/Jul Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 27/Jun Lead β
Katsmiff 21/Jun Lead dog

Really nice climb, shame I didn't have enough strength so fell off. Very doable.

with Ian Pegg
Hidden 16/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Jun TR dog
LakesWinter 10/Jun Lead G/U

Tried a few years ago, got it today, lots of good moves, 2 5c bits.

with Rob Mid
Hidden 10/Jun Lead dog
Jmpollard 08/Jun Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Olga
ChrisVickers 26/May 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 10/May Lead dog

One rest before pulling through the overlap. Spanked at the end of a good day. 30 second shake out and did it just fine. Oh well. The route name is a bit of a give-away in terms of which hand you need to work into the pocket!

with Gary Kitchen
kermit_uk 04/May Lead O/S
with Phil Parkin
OliverRoss 04/May Lead O/S
with Alkis
Alkis 04/May Lead dog

Went wrong handed 5 times, each time getting the hold above and then downclimbing. By the time I thought that maybe I shouldn't be doing that, I was boxed, so dropped it after getting the crux sequence.

MSchobitz 24/Apr Lead β

Basically on Matt's gear.

Matthew Ferrier 24/Apr 2nd
pete_naylor 04/Apr Lead dog
amccann 03/Nov/14 Lead β

On Bens gear.

benkelsey 03/Nov/14 Lead O/S

good gear and easy moves to bomber jams

with Alex Mccan, Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 03/Nov/14 Lead β

On bens Gear, felt supprisingly ok

John Bish 18/Oct/14 Lead
with James Martin
John Bish 04/Oct/14 2nd
with James Martin
Gambit 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Only got it when I ignored all this hand stuff and climbed it

with Royston
simon1965 22/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with James
Stig 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead RP
AdamPrzeslak 14/Sep/14 TR dnf
DavidR 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S

short but packs a punch! good route

with Dave
kyaizawa 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tricky, sustained and sequency, though there are bomber jams post-crux; probably a bit stiff at E1.

Emma Reynolds 30/Jul/14 2nd RP
Guy Atkinson 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf

The holds are all there but they're not that easy to use, pretty sequency and strong, tried it a few times but couldn't get my right hand in the pocket (no way I was getting up without my left hand in there) Tom eventually figured out a sequence but took a fall after the vertical crack cos it was really scrittly and dirty. I can see how it's supposed to be an E1 but it doesn't feel like it.

with Tom Butterworth
MrBIond 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mrteale 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with MrBlond
theomoore 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Roisin
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead
WillDoyle 17/May/14 Solo
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Lazytraveller 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/14 2nd
drysori 04/Apr/14 Lead
rurp 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Hard start, easy middle , loads of gear, then technical hard finish

with bill farmer
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead dog
Jim Slater 22/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Gudge 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dprctr 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Crossed through to the undercut. Getting off the floor took a while to figure out!

gavinpeach 29/Jun/13 Lead RP

Brilliant route. Figured out the sequence fairly quickly, but didn't commit and needlessly rested on the rope on the crux. Anyway, led again clean. Great route with really nice moves. Left hand in the pocket, right on the undercut and then match.

The Norris 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Nice route, first 5C for me. i think my massive ape index helped avoid any necessity to use good technique.

with Gavin
Nathanie1 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Louise Hall 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Such a frustrating climb. It made me forget how to climb, embarassingly scrappy and I just couldn't swap my hands in the pocket or find a non-strong way to get past the crux. I will be very happy if I get that in the future.

nick ferro 19/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
giuly 19/May/13 TR dog
with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
Sam Cooke 24/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Tadams 24/Feb/13 Lead dog
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
oi_now ??/2013 2nd
pie_eater_pete 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

nice little route, V. Well protected after the starting arete. Right hand in the pocket for the win!

with CCJohnD
Hidden 01/Oct/12 2nd β
climberchristy 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent. Technical and superb throughout. Gear is fantastic

with Ben Cole
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Solo O/S
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Climbster 02/Sep/12 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A tricky little blighter nearly blew my on-sight.

with Matt
antdav 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf

A couple of hard moves but well protected. Couldn't get the lay back to the pocket without aid.

with Ian Routledge
pete1993 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Nick
Nick1812P 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete
marcduhig 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Nicola
johang 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S


Compo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Nice, not too obvious. Classic E1 short climb.

with Hannah
Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
mtempest 08/Aug/12 2nd
with Richard Waltham
Trevera 04/Aug/12 Lead
with nick sillem
Adrianw 04/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Failed to engage correct launch sequence

James Oswald 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

cool route. amazing little moving.

jwpil 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
SGD 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

I almost certainly did this with the wrong hand in 'the hold' but it worked. Lovely route packs a lot in for a short pitch and a short climber.

will_benfold 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Cameron
cameron_hall 15/Jul/12 2nd β

Although I think Will did what I would have done anyway, it was much easier having just watched someone else deal with the wrong hand bit. :-)

Andy Peak 1 19/Jun/12 Lead
deacondeacon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
mwatson 18/May/12 2nd O/S

tall person beta makes this a pretty nice hvs

pmurdy 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mike W
Rich Kirby 12/May/12 Solo
with Ruth
stuaart 14/Apr/12 2nd dog

That move felt properly hard---I'm sure a longer pair of arms would help!

with Neil Redgrave
stefie c 30/Mar/12 2nd
powellj69 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Twisty 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Nice start (again) but pretty steady- doesn't actually matter which way round your hands are- easy enough to swap them over- very well protected

with Byron Buck
Andy Peak 1 ??/2012 -
jshields 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Dave Scott
Hardonicus 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Attempted on Nick's gear. Got the pocket/undercut but didn't commit above. Lame...

with nick a, Luke Donaldson
Speeddemonsi 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead. The short jamming crack above the difficulties was very well received.

with Pete
Dave89 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Didn't commit once had the pocket. So Andre led instead and followed on second Lovely, but tough.

with Andre
tradguy 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Hidden 29/Jul/11 -
JRae 18/May/11 Lead
with A Saul
Reaver2k 18/May/11 Lead
with JRae
cragtyke 08/May/11 2nd
with john g
Brown 03/May/11 Lead O/S
with Gabriel
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 17/Apr/11 Lead

Ace route.

with Will Ward
dominic lee 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Adam Moroz 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Preety straightforward,it's the name that confused me.I spent ages climbing up and down trying to get my right hand in the pocket, as soon as i committed to left hand in pocket in went preety simply.

with john (Krank)
Tamati ?/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
Tom Redmond 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

well named but realy good route!

with david knight, Jake Young
Jake Young 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dave Knight, Tom Redmond
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 07/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead β
Oli 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Soft? Did it with some overstrong non-wrong-hand beta, then soloed it with nick's wack cross through beta to get the gear back. Really good sequence of moves.

BeccaSnowden 24/Oct/10 Lead

Went up to the pocket with left hand and then decided it was wrong so tried to downclimb but had to rest on gear. Went up again with left hand in pocket and put right hand over to the undercut then matched on the undercut - so much easier than trying to reach the pocket with my right hand!

thomasadixon 24/Oct/10 Lead β

Had seen Al do it first. Seemed fairly obvious what to do though, just wasn't sure it was possible to reach that far!

with Mike, Becca, Alan
Reaver2k 24/Oct/10 2nd
ojp 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Rachel Slater 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with kind strangers
Dave Foster 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Si
mark20 10/Oct/10 Lead RP

Ground up second go

bigdrew 10/Oct/10 Lead β

With Marks gear insitu.

with Mark R
schaff 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
thetourist 02/Oct/10 TR O/S
willsm11 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Twisty
Twisty 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 10/Jul/10 TR
with Richard Vaughan, Sarah Pentelow
LiL Saz 10/Jul/10 TR
Graeme Hammond 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with federico
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
john lynch 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

great fun!

with Ant King, Neil Elmore
aking12 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
Milne 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S

just brilliant, thought the start was as hard as anything higher, awsome pull off the pocket for the crux, found myself laughing all the way up this. got to be worth 2 stars.

Hidden ??/2010 2nd dog
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
tom.e 31/Oct/09 Lead β
with Malcolm
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
mic_b 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
leon 26/Sep/09 Lead
with Steven Davidson
Phill Mitch 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with gaz
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd dog
MD 02/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Ian W
Alex Winter 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Si dH 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Straigthforward once I'd worked it out and got the correct hand in the pocket (although the guy before me did it wit hthe other hand in, so hey ho). Crux for me was leaving the ground.

with Gary
spacey 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
altairego 09/Jun/09 2nd
with Jim and Paul
joese7en ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/May/09 TR O/S
UndeRsoGGycrAg 30/May/09 TR β
with Steve
chrisjones199 25/May/09 TR dog
Andrew Barker 03/May/09 Lead O/S

Easy to work out the correct sequence before you start climbing.

LakesWinter 02/May/09 Lead dnf

Ran out of strength after the hard bit. Really annoying!

with Cake
Cake 02/May/09 2nd O/S

Nice pebble-jam left left me with a mark for days

with Matt
mjeffery 18/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/09 2nd rpt

after failed lead, andy dog lead with gear in

Hidden 14/Mar/09 Lead dog
Martin Haworth 01/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had one rest, disappointed not to get the on-site. Excellent route.

jiles ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Ben Harper 13/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Andy Webster
mullermn 16/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Barely got off the floor.

with Monkey
Monk 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tlr 24/Jun/08 Lead
Joe Dove 08/Jun/08 Lead
with kev
Ian Broome 16/Feb/08 Lead β
with Tanya
danoflynn 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/07 2nd β
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Solo RP
Hidden ?/Sep/07 -
Pythonist 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S

I reckon Adam got the more usual sequence, but I found it much easier just to use the wrong hand!

adam carless 03/Aug/07 2nd O/S

By a completely different sequence to everyone else - no surprise there.

Hidden 03/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Mick r 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
craig d 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Great route

with Simon Kincaid
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/Apr/07 Solo rpt
bullwinkle 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John
dannyboy83 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Daniel Armitage 25/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/06 Lead dog
loonyclimber 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

as the name suggests... :D

with Ian
Joe Costello ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Liam
Lex_2004 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Piers Hemsley
featuresforfeet 29/Jan/06 2nd dog
with Fiend
Luke Brooks 26/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo β
Ben1983 ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/06 Lead
with David
Nicos 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/05 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S

class route underrated 3* definately wud have another go. gr8 moves

with lee robinson
chris sm ?/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 Lead O/S
Chris M ??/2005 -
nickcanute ??/2005 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Oct/04 Solo O/S
jonnyboy 09/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 2nd
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 2nd
Strong Steve 07/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 06/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Billg 24/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Roget 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
shark 09/May/87 Solo O/S
with Phill Dickens
Mark Kemball 29/Nov/82 Solo
with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DeanD, Hidden, adamre12, disrail, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Dan Lane
High E2
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 66
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set