Derbyshire > Bamford Edge >
 
Oracle* VS 4b

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Sterling Moss >>
14m. Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing. Wild! © ROCKFAX
FA. Paul Nunn 1971

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 221 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

paul79 - Lead - 06/Aug/14

benlatham07 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Great swinging round the arete, not done with much style tho (shouldnt have worn shorts)
vix - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Lorna

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Katie

Jolly fun
treg - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/14 with Bird

s.thursz - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Dan Rose

Interesting, good for rope work, needs thought, several different ways.
sshandy - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Anni, Zoe Pickering

AnniH - 2nd β - 12/Jul/14 with Zoe and Andy

Harri777 - 2nd - 29/Jun/14 with Will Boxall, Matt Snell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14

JasonK - 2nd - 17/Jun/14 with Tom Smith

HB1 - 2nd - 06/Jun/14 with KB

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Pidg, Alex Pickard

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Wendo

Matt Bill Platypus - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/14 with James Rowe

Matt250 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

Tony Hy - Lead O/S - 2014

admackie - 17/Dec/13 with phil taylor

the power - 2nd O/S - 17/Dec/13 with admackie

With headtorch as getting dark. Move out onto the arÍte would have been mildly thought provoking if leading.
ralphio - 2nd O/S - 02/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/13

nick ferro - 06/Oct/13

Alex Eperon - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

rbrookes2 - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Nick Ferro

Awkward fun
mattgrange - Lead - 05/Oct/13

andyclimber - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/13

edd rab - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with adrian scott

Becky E - Lead - 28/Sep/13 with Julian

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Matt

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/13 with Richard Williams

Easier than it looked from the ground! Good fun though and worth a couple of stars.
Alan100 - Lead - 22/Sep/13

Chris Manasseh - Lead - 12/Sep/13 with Adam Galluzzo

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/13

dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Paul Hy

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13 with Rob S

andyclimber - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13

Easier than expected but lots of fun
drolex - 2nd - 07/Aug/13

great climb
simon mitchie - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13

Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Dave Minshall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Budge - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Brian Mattock, Carl Tiivas

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/13 with Fidel Sciamanna

HB1 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with KB

cem - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong

EeFu - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Charles Moreton

tomdadom - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

blackholesun - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Ali Mortazavi - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Rita

kp64zl - Lead - Jun/13 with Keith

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/13

quickdrawmcraw - Lead - 05/May/13 with hannah

tjsx101 - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Jethro Pryke, Dave Cattell

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

Vincej - Lead - 2013 with Nevil

john_ni - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Richard Savage (ODL)

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

Awkward chimney then lovely easy climbing on the arÍte
martroberts - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

3kidsandanorton - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Kay

Cool route. I managed to bleed all over it though....
James Oswald - 27/Jul/12 with Colin Angus

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12

Dead easy, but good fun.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with James Oswald

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/12

Marcin78 - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Rafal

Awesome! Varied, interesting climbing with good positions. Completely underrated at 1* (Rockfax), the exciting "swing" round is extremely protectable. HS as in rockfax guide probably adequate, neither technically hard enough nor unprotected enough for VS.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Josh

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Mark gillanders

sgl - Lead - 12/May/12 with will

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 24/Apr/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/12

halroberts87 - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Jonny Schofield, Tom Adams

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Byron Buck

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Juliet Bate

JJB - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Mark Williams

Tony Kartawick - 2012

sopaz - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

jshields - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Dave Scott

hotfeet - Lead - 15/Oct/11

Alkis - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11

g1m147 - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Diane

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mel Brown

max64 - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Mike, John

stonemikey - Lead - 01/Oct/11

Mike led
runwildjohn - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Peter Close, Mike Silver

Mike led
runwildjohn - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Peter Close, Mike Silver

Easy for the grade but really nice climbing
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Rob Adie

first ever route at bamford edge. steve had a flap on the lead, good fun.
LukeP LCC - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with steve kirman

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Phil PCC

slacky - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Ben

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Matt Moore, Jon Taylor

rather varied route, positive holds either side of the swing
Neil Rodgers (PCC) - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Jonathan Keats PCC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11

pure comedy climbing! bit of a shock when you step out on to the slab though...
tom.ireson - 2nd β - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Jones

Sitting in a chimney is always an amusing experience. Was ill equipped for the top out so it was a tad spicy.
Paul D Jones - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Tom Ireson

Alex Shermer - Lead β - 15/Jun/11 with Phil Smith

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Pete Finklaire

CRiddiford - Solo O/S - 04/May/11

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 04/May/11 with Caroline

Back an' foot. Tha'll ger up owt like that lad.
nickmattia - 03/May/11 with ryan jones

think I went too high before stepping across
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11

matthias13 - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with JamesA

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Apr/11

Think I made this too easy by going up the chimney too far- my swing wasn't quite as wild as anticipated!
NB Pixel - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Simon H.

jwpil - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Gordon

gordonday - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jack

leonjones - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Max Streeton

Good fun. Probably HS as in Rockfax.
treg - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with Chris S

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 03/Jan/11 with Steve Sadler

Overated hard to find swing move.
sylwia - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

fun route :)
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Alex Shermer

Alex Shermer - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Rachel Slater

Can be a 2-star if the route is better defined naturally (the traversing point is sort of arbitrary).
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Lisa M

Oliver Houston - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/10

ajc - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Austen Clark

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/10 with CUMC folk, Myself!

gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Pete V

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

A fun route which became relatively easy once established.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Ed

may have traversed out too high?
harold walmsley - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/10

pabbage - 23/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/10

Maybe too high onto arete?
Goody - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Innominata

Extremely mild yet somehow very pleasant! Good climb if you want to rest your arms.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Chris Aslin

Reds - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with schristophersmith

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds

DaNo123 - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with Hanzler

alancash100 - Lead - 2010

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Andy J

Nice & exposed, soft for the grade.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 31/Oct/09

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/09 with Ollie

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Richard

david morse - Solo - 12/Sep/09 with mikey em BB andy G anna x2

climber130887 - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with James Karran and Crispin

Very worthwhile if a bit odd.
jkarran - 2nd - 30/Aug/09 with Crispin, Matt

Great exposure for the grade, but not particularly bold. Really good.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Pretty fine climb
Cake - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/09

mjeffery - 2nd - 18/Apr/09

Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Gethin

Jon Dittman - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Steve J P - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with sp

gillybon - Lead - 2009

jonka - Lead - Oct/08 with gareth

A great, probably often overlooked route.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with luke

deacondeacon - Lead - 26/Sep/08

alaan - Solo O/S - 14/Sep/08

GrantB - Lead - 13/Sep/08 with Alaan

Andysomething - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Mark Binney

Hedley - 24/Aug/08 with Steve Grey

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Nick Brand

Felt like a big undertaking... for 4b!
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Bryn

A bit disappointing really .. I mean it's a fine climb but didn't really feel like a VS. However was a bit nervous to see a number of nut placements that had obviously been used before - but the rock appears to have exploded as though the previous placements had been fallen on and ripped.
Dax - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Dom

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 18/May/08 with adam carless

definitely not your standard "follow the holds up the wall" type climb - much amusement and not much technical difficulty - great!
adam carless - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with SecretSquirrel

Slight variation on this route, probably Severe, a slightly higher step right but still a good route.
bridget143 - Lead rpt - 14/May/08 with Rob Peppit

Great positions - much easier than it looks. Positive ledges and cracks to bridge and back-and-foot on. Well protected once you have shuffled along. Probably only HS at most. Great fun and highly recommended. Should have 2 stars.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Mark (KMC)

Mike Soulby - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Steve Jones

Really nice feel to it
Heinrich - 2nd O/S - 01/May/08 with Steve

a really fun route!
HamishD - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with vince vahinsberg

Mega good fun, a worthwhile climb
vvanhinsbergh - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Hamish Dunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/08

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - 2nd β - 10/Feb/08 with Andy Barker

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 2008 with Rob Middleton

Piers Harley - Lead β - 06/Oct/07 with sarah pentalow

LiL Saz - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Piers Harley

martin48 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Chris FitzHugh

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Sue Armitage

awesome!
hang_about - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 27/Jan/07 with solo

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 2007 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/06

toasted - Lead - 22/Oct/06 with Ian Atkins

jl - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/06 with Penny

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with Andy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/06

cem - 2nd - 04/Jun/06 with Frances Taylor

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 28/May/06

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/06

mikej - Lead - 04/Oct/05 with Rick Naylor

JohnHutch - Lead - 11/Jul/05 with L

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/05

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/05

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/04 with Chris

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/04 with Dan

Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04 with Tracy

I thought it was fun - Daz didn't
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with Daz

chris warner - Lead - Oct/03 with james raitt

max_chan - Lead O/S - 2003 with Warren

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/May/02

Hidden - 2002

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

Roget - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/00 with jon

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/99

Iain Thow - 2nd - 09/Oct/96 with Dave Walch

Mark Kemball - Solo - 29/Nov/82 with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, David Wynne, RockaJo, Rowie B, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 172
hard HVS0 of 59
HVS0 of 59
easy HVS0 of 59
hard VS0 of 59
VS13 of 59
easy VS18 of 59
hard HS27 of 59
HS1 of 59
easy HS0 of 59
hard 4c0 of 55
4c0 of 55
easy 4c0 of 55
hard 4b1 of 55
4b31 of 55
easy 4b18 of 55
hard 4a5 of 55
4a0 of 55
easy 4a0 of 55
3 Stars11 of 58
2 Stars29 of 58
1 Star16 of 58
0 Stars2 of 58
Bag of .....0 of 58
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Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 221 (6.8%)
Lead112 of 221 (50.7%)
Followed81 of 221 (36.7%)
Toproped1 of 221 (0.5%)
Unknown12 of 221 (5.4%)

'Climbed'83 of 221 (37.6%)
clean O/S120 of 221 (54.3%)
clean β6 of 221 (2.7%)
clean rpt12 of 221 (5.4%)