Derbyshire > Bamford Edge >
 
Oracle* VS 4b

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14m. Climb near the outside of the cleft until the front of the fine exposed arete on the right can be gained by a bold swing. Wild! © ROCKFAX
FA. Paul Nunn 1971

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

HB1 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with KB

cem - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong

tomdadom - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

blackholesun - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Ali Mortazavi - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Rita

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/13

tjsx101 - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Jethro Pryke, Dave Cattell

john_ni - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Richard Savage ODL

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

Awkward chimney then lovely easy climbing on the arête
martroberts - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

3kidsandamortgage - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Kay

Cool route. I managed to bleed all over it though....
James Oswald - 27/Jul/12 with Colin Angus

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12

Dead easy, but good fun.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with James Oswald

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jul/12

Marcin78 - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Rafal

Awesome! Varied, interesting climbing with good positions. Completely underrated at 1* (Rockfax), the exciting "swing" round is extremely protectable. HS as in rockfax guide probably adequate, neither technically hard enough nor unprotected enough for VS.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Josh

Joshua Willett - 2nd - 02/Jun/12 with German Alex

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Mark gillanders

sgl - Lead - 12/May/12 with will

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 24/Apr/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/12

halroberts87 - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Jonny Schofield, Tom Adams

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Byron Buck

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Juliet Bate

JJB - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Mark Williams

Tony Kartawick - 2012

sopaz - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

jshields - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Dave Scott

hotfeet - Lead - 15/Oct/11

Alkis - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/11

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mel Brown

max64 - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Mike, John

stonemikey - Lead - 01/Oct/11

Mike led
runwildjohn - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Peter Close, Mike Silver

Mike led
runwildjohn - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Peter Close, Mike Silver

Easy for the grade but really nice climbing
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Rob Adie

first ever route at bamford edge. steve had a flap on the lead, good fun.
LukeP LCC - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with steve kirman

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Phil PCC

slacky - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Ben

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Matt Moore, Jon Taylor

rather varied route, positive holds either side of the swing
Neil Rodgers (PCC) - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Jonathan Keats PCC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11

pure comedy climbing! bit of a shock when you step out on to the slab though...
tom.ireson - 2nd β - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Jones

Sitting in a chimney is always an amusing experience. Was ill equipped for the top out so it was a tad spicy.
Paul D Jones - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Tom Ireson

Alex Shermer - Lead β - 15/Jun/11 with Phil Smith

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Pete Finklaire

CRiddiford - Solo O/S - 04/May/11

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 04/May/11 with Caroline

Back an' foot. Tha'll ger up owt like that lad.
nickmattia - 03/May/11 with ryan jones

think I went too high before stepping across
idiotproof (Buxton MC) - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11

matthias13 - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with JamesA

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Apr/11

Think I made this too easy by going up the chimney too far- my swing wasn't quite as wild as anticipated!
NB Pixel - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Simon H.

jwpil - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Gordon

gordonday - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jack

leonjones - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Max Streeton

Good fun. Probably HS as in Rockfax.
treg - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with Chris S

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 03/Jan/11 with Steve Sadler

Overated hard to find swing move.
sylwia - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

fun route :)
r fizzle - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Alex Shermer

Alex Shermer - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Rachel Slater

Can be a 2-star if the route is better defined naturally (the traversing point is sort of arbitrary).
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Lisa M

Oliver Houston - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/10

ajc - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Austen Clark

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/10 with CUMC folk, Myself!

gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Pete V

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

A fun route which became relatively easy once established.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Ed

may have traversed out too high?
harold walmsley - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/10

pabbage - 23/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/10

Maybe too high onto arete?
Goody - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Innominata

Extremely mild yet somehow very pleasant! Good climb if you want to rest your arms.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Chris Aslin

Reds - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with schristophersmith

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds

DaNo123 - Lead - 16/Apr/10 with Hanzler

alancash100 - Lead - 2010

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Andy Jobling

Nice & exposed, soft for the grade.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 31/Oct/09

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/09 with Ollie

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Richard

david morse - Solo - 12/Sep/09 with mikey em BB andy G anna x2

climber130887 - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with James Karran and Crispin

Very worthwhile if a bit odd.
jkarran - 2nd - 30/Aug/09 with Crispin, Matt

Great exposure for the grade, but not particularly bold. Really good.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Pretty fine climb
Cake - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09 with Matt

madmats - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Duz

mjeffery - 2nd - 18/Apr/09

Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Gethin

Jon Dittman - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Steve J P - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with sp

gillybon - Lead - 2009

jonka - Lead - Oct/08 with gareth

A great, probably often overlooked route.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with luke

deacondeacon - Lead - 26/Sep/08

alaan - Solo O/S - 14/Sep/08

GrantB - Lead - 13/Sep/08 with Alaan

Andysomething - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Mark Binney

Hedley - 24/Aug/08 with Steve Grey

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Nick Brand

Felt like a big undertaking... for 4b!
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Bryn

A bit disappointing really .. I mean it's a fine climb but didn't really feel like a VS. However was a bit nervous to see a number of nut placements that had obviously been used before - but the rock appears to have exploded as though the previous placements had been fallen on and ripped.
Dax - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Dom

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 18/May/08 with adam carless

definitely not your standard "follow the holds up the wall" type climb - much amusement and not much technical difficulty - great!
adam carless - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with SecretSquirrel

Slight variation on this route, probably Severe, a slightly higher step right but still a good route.
bridget143 - Lead rpt - 14/May/08 with Rob Peppit

Great positions - much easier than it looks. Positive ledges and cracks to bridge and back-and-foot on. Well protected once you have shuffled along. Probably only HS at most. Great fun and highly recommended. Should have 2 stars.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Mark (KMC)

Mike Soulby - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Steve Jones

Really nice feel to it
Heinrich - 2nd O/S - 01/May/08 with Steve

a really fun route!
HamishD - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with vince vahinsberg

Mega good fun, a worthwhile climb
vvanhinsbergh - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Hamish Dunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/08

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - 2nd β - 10/Feb/08 with Andy Barker

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 2008 with Rob Middleton

Piers Harley - Lead β - 06/Oct/07 with sarah pentalow

LiL Saz - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with Piers Harley

martin48 - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Chris FitzHugh

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Sue Armitage

awesome!
hang_about - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Great exposed position out on the arete :) Briefly thought I might need to be rescued!
Nick Smith - UKC - Solo O/S - 14/Apr/07

Nicos - Solo O/S - 27/Jan/07 with solo

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 2007 with Rob Middleton

danwaters - Lead O/S - Nov/06 with Scott Gibson

toasted - Lead - 22/Oct/06 with Ian Atkins

jl - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/06 with Penny

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with Andy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/06

cem - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Frances Taylor

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 28/May/06

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Apr/06

JohnHutch - Lead - 11/Jul/05 with L

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/05

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/05

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/04 with Chris Heald

slacky - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/04 with Dan

Toreador - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04 with Tracy

I thought it was fun - Daz didn't
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with Daz

chris warner - Lead - Oct/03 with james raitt

max_chan - Lead O/S - 2003 with Warren

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/May/02

Hidden - 2002

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

Roget - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/00 with jon

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/99

Iain Thow - 2nd - 09/Oct/96 with Dave Walch

Mark Kemball - Solo - 29/Nov/82 with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, David Wynne, RockaJo, Rowie B, Hidden, Hidden, Flicka

Voting
Total votes cast 131
hard HVS0 of 45
HVS0 of 45
easy HVS0 of 45
hard VS0 of 45
VS10 of 45
easy VS14 of 45
hard HS21 of 45
HS0 of 45
easy HS0 of 45
hard 4c0 of 42
4c0 of 42
easy 4c0 of 42
hard 4b0 of 42
4b22 of 42
easy 4b15 of 42
hard 4a5 of 42
4a0 of 42
easy 4a0 of 42
3 Stars8 of 44
2 Stars21 of 44
1 Star13 of 44
0 Stars2 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 171 (8.8%)
Lead88 of 171 (51.5%)
Followed57 of 171 (33.3%)
Toproped1 of 171 (0.6%)
Unknown10 of 171 (5.8%)

'Climbed'64 of 171 (37.4%)
clean O/S94 of 171 (55.0%)
clean β5 of 171 (2.9%)
clean rpt8 of 171 (4.7%)