Tandem VS 4c
[Leading off the first belay, 3 kb]80m, 3 pitches. awkward, small wires required.
Bønes, Østreim 1965

Photo: Leading off the first belay © Jamie Simpson
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

A complicated and sparsley protected route. There were very few big nut placements, the route relied on DMM peanuts and micro nuts, even the belay at the top of the first pitch. There were numerous padding moves on no holds and awkward mantleshelf moves onto slopeing ledges. This is a good route but the lack of bomber gear gave it an edge. The first pitch was wet and awkward to climb as the left leaning crack was strenuous to protect as there were no features at all left of the crack so your left foot was smearing for about 15-18 ish metres and both hands had to be in the crack which was awkward. The location is beautiful; on top of, but stepped back from, Viggerustuggen, overlooking the jagged coastline with a small lochan at the base of the crag.
AndyP - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jamie

An awkward first pitch, goey, and always been pushed out to the left, the second pitch includes a traverse and airy mental shelf away from gear, followed by splendid slabby corner and another belay. Last pitch traverses left, over slabs and then awkward finish. Good route, serious due to gear is spaced and often small. The line wonders around, over a clean granite face, set high on the hillside above a lochan with fantastic views of the sea. I think this route is seldom climbed. Grade is Norwegian 4+. Walk off to the left (looking at crag), rough ground, a bit of bushwhacking. You can easily do a route on ěrnanipa and walk over to Stokkafjell, but take approach shoes or wellies as it can be quite marshy!
Jamie Simpson - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Andy porter

Total votes cast 6
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