Derbyshire > Stanage End >
 
Steamin' E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Another Turn
 
The Pinion >>
14m. Start just right of the arete and climb delicately, passing the right-hand edge of a thin overlap. From the ledge, climb a short crack, a wall and the final roof centrally. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Craggs 1983
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 94 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

A big reach will lead to satisfaction. I started for the HS and traversed from the right to make things more interesting.
MarcJLangley - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/14

Brilliant finish !
gazfellows - Lead - 31/Aug/14

Traversed slightly to the left and then back right to gain some needed extra reach
rpinto - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

Cudnt work out top reach eventually bailed right then noticed hold from above hahaha
the power - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/14 with chris

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Lydia Ansorge

cem - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/14 with Paul Baxter

Turns out the crux goes the other way for me than for the tall guys...
Paul Baxter - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/14

jwhereat - 2nd - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/14

dom94 - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with micky, Calum Wadsworth, Fran, alex mccann, Tom Appleby

amccann - 2nd O/S - 14/May/14

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Andrew Graham

Super climb but very cold due to the sun still in the east
ffdalton - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/14 with John Beard

Struggling a bit on the roof but nice route to finish off the day
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Stephen

Gudge - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Helen B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Matt chandy

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

jimbonfire - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Apr/13

psychomansam - Lead - 2013

Climbster - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 03/Sep/12 with Matt

Andy belayed me from the top after his leading VD/HVD route.
masa-alpin - TR O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Andy Rich

I did a different route
sshandy - 19/Aug/12 with Masa

After doing the Sheffield half marathon in the morning...legs almost useless!
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Rich Siddle

nmwr - 2nd dog - 27/May/12 with Dom Sellers

ianjfsutcliffe - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Courty

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with ian sutcliffe

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/12

DeanD - 2nd O/S - 2012

missed the crimp to the left, ended going over on the slopers from a rubbish jam underneath. good route
mattorford - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

DeanD - TR O/S - 10/Sep/11

Colin pointed out the good finishing hold after watching me battle and flap for a while
adam carless - Lead β - 03/Sep/11 with SecretSquirrel

Fourth Up
dpmUK - TR dog - 03/Sep/11

Missed the top hold, tried on lead. Failed, dogged on top rope. Goin back to lead clean
ffdalton - TR dog - Sep/11 with Dean Dalton

jshields - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Ed James

long reach!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Steve

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Trevor

ColinD - 2nd - 07/Jun/11

thekendo - TR - 10/Apr/11 with Chung-Hsien Cheng

keith leonard - 2011

mwatson - 2011

After hunting around for the reach, finally found it - further left than I thought. Easy when you know how, and good gear.
nick ferro - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Jonathan Aylwin

Maxim2023 - Lead - Sep/10

SPENCER41 - TR dog - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/10

Quite easy 5b, had no problems with reach
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Tom

Felt scary for some reason...not hard tho.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Becca, Lisa, Alan

Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Debbie Armstrong

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

kato'sdad - TR - 25/Apr/10 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - TR - 25/Apr/10 with Jon Berry

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds

DaNo123 - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Hanzler

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Ewano - TR - 2010

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/09

slacky - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/09 with Gary & Jim

Traversed off under final roof
Powder Puff Girl - 2nd dnf - 25/May/09 with Ben H

Having spent 30 mins trying to get over the top roof, gave up and traversed off. Must have missed a trick I think
popebenedictus - Lead dnf - 25/May/09 with Ruth Harding

My first E1 lead! Whoop! Scary slab moves, felt a lot like the situation I was in on sunset slab, but without the bomber slider... Had a hurrendously poor cam in, which wouldnt have held body weight, but you never know... Found the moves a bit sketchy, but mostly just because I was scared. From this up to the roof is also suprisingly hard! Once at the roof, laced it with a couple of cams and tried to work out a way of getting over the top before getting pumped! Reached over, found a crimp, figured there must be something better, reached again, just the crimp again. Eventually decided to commit holding the crimp and hanging on it whilst leaning out and reaching up. Worked fine if a bit strenuous. Then have to somehow get feet over the lip which I found the hardest bit, had to get them almost by my face and push up and over! Great feeling!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca

Hidden - Lead β - 2009

Good top section.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08 with MarkWesterman

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/08

boulderholder - 2nd O/S - Sep/08 with Debbie Birch

smudge - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/08 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

cem - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Mark O'Neill, Rob Truckle

atom - 2nd - 07/Jun/08 with Lee Parker

Hidden - 2008

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/07

gibbo38 - TR - 12/Aug/07 with Robert

gibbo21 - TR - 12/Aug/07 with Robert

Rampikino - 2nd - 03/Jun/07 with MMC Various

mshorter - Lead O/S - 2007 with dunc

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/06

Jon Greengrass - 2nd β - 2006 with reeeve

+ Paul Pickavance + his brother
slacky - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/05 with Jon Buck

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/05 with Dave Walker

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/05

Scottish78 - 01/Apr/05

First E1.
MeMeMe - Lead O/S - Jul/04

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - Jul/01

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/00 with Kaspar Martin

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 19/Jun/99

bobboulderer - 2nd β - Feb/95 with Chris Jackson Jones

Just walked up to the crag and spotted the line. Did it and gave it HVS.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1983 with Nigel Baker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, kipman725, martin48

Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard E20 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard E10 of 21
E110 of 21
easy E18 of 21
hard HVS3 of 21
HVS0 of 21
easy HVS0 of 21
hard 5c0 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
hard 5b4 of 20
5b11 of 20
easy 5b5 of 20
hard 5a0 of 20
5a0 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars3 of 20
1 Star11 of 20
0 Stars5 of 20
Bag of .....1 of 20
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 94 (2.1%)
Lead48 of 94 (51.1%)
Followed26 of 94 (27.7%)
Toproped11 of 94 (11.7%)
Unknown7 of 94 (7.4%)

'Climbed'27 of 94 (28.7%)
clean O/S43 of 94 (45.7%)
clean β5 of 94 (5.3%)
clean rpt6 of 94 (6.4%)
dogged7 of 94 (7.4%)
dnf6 of 94 (6.4%)