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Surgeon's Saunter*** HVS 5b

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[colin on Surgeon's Saunter Direct HVS 5b. Looked bloody difficult, I wasn't going to try!, 3 kb]18m. A great route with a hard, but protectable start and excellent jamming above. The dubious jammed tooth at half-height has resisted many years of efforts to wrench it from its socket. Finish up the right-hand crack for the full effect. Photo opposite. © ROCKFAX
FA. Peter Biven 1953

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage *** HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

Photo: colin on Surgeon's Saunter Direct HVS 5b. Looked bloody difficult, I wasn't going to try! © just wanna climb
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 240 logbooks, and on 48 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/14

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Dave Brock

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Ripley, Olli Crudge

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Ripley, Rachel Slater

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/14

Lukem6 - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/14 with tom perry

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/14 with Peter Harris

chinkus303 - 2nd β - 31/May/14

phil64 - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

franhammond92 - 2nd - 14/May/14 with Micki Schobitz

Really hard moves off the ground, though with great gear. Massively pumped after doing some weird layback moves to get to the crack. Then rested several times before managing to finish in one. All in all a terrible effort on a pretty nice route.
MSchobitz - Lead dog - 14/May/14 with fran

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hard start! (5c?)
markfairbank - Lead dog - 18/Apr/14 with Phil Wadsworth

pulled up first move
farmerwad - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Mark

probably not the best choice for last route of the day. tricky moves off the floor leading to the VS, but nice moves above - another lesson in improving jams!
Woodiee - Lead dog - 18/Apr/14 with Tom Pitchforth

Mick r - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/14 with Ian Storey, Dave

Nails for the grade
chris smith - Lead dog - 09/Mar/14 with Malcolm watson

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Alfie Conn - 2014

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 2014

Horrendous. Managed the hard moves low down okay, but had all sorts of problems with the hand jamming above.
Ant Man Bee - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13 with Graham Dolman

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/13 with Steve Harby

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/13

AMJ098 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Dan Geh

Really nice route, one hardish move off the ground, then sinker jams and jugs all the way.
Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Adam Jordan, Thomas Geh

standard hvs, 1 strenuous move at the start then bomber jamming with a sit down rest half way
tgeh - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with adam jordan, dan geh

MatthewH - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/13

gmatthew - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13

Skullfire - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/13 with Jun Minohara

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/Jul/13

Use the big rock at the bottom. Still hard in the first 5 meters
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Stephen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Matt chandy

Hidden - 2nd β - 04/Jun/13

A tough move right at the top nearly wrecked my hard work below.
caradoc - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with john b

Stanage HVS
migs493 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with LO

I think the first move is 5C but well protected. Nice climbing above.
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Helen Fawcett

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Ouch!!!
Lukem6 - Lead dog - 27/May/13 with james "sasquatch", Jenny Monkey

JBudzynski - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

JulesV - 25/May/13

tough start
dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13

stevetheleg - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Theo Moore

theomoore - Lead RP - 06/May/13

nai - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Neil, Tom2t

Great route, solid.
slacky - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Tom Crane, Ian

tommytwotone - 2nd - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

really hard work. bottom moves tough and perfect hand jamming needed at top.
mark4344 - Lead dog - 21/Apr/13 with Matt Payne

cheeky - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Mark Philipson

ajc - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Mel

Gambit - Lead dog - 07/Apr/13 with Barney

Bloody hard start, not sure if that's because it was the last climb of the day or not. Probably, not.
Voltemands - 2nd dog - 20/Mar/13 with Amy Till, Carlene HIll

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/12 with ed luke, adam harrison

Apharri - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Sep/12

Boy - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Jon Coe

Climbster - 2nd β - 03/Sep/12 with Ian

If you can do the move off the deck the rest ain't too bad.
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/12

hotfeet - Lead - 12/Aug/12 with Fraser Campbell, Mark MacDonald

Fell off about ten times before I got past the first hard move then fell off again at the next move, could feel the rope rubbing each time and decided enough was enough!
Blue68 - 2nd dnf - 12/Aug/12 with Fraser Campbell, Alan Mountford

Really hot day, just scraped over the top, Not a proper onsight as I climbed Doctors Saunter a few years ago.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

R2B - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12

Spent ages working the first few moves, got there eventually but was too pumped to do the rest! Hard.
Harri777 - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/12 with Ian Lau

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Fell off trying to rush due to the pouring rain.
max_chan - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/12 with Trevor Wilson

kitch22 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with John Proctor

Tough warm up.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Courty

M_W_Court - 2nd - 26/May/12 with ian sutcliffe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/12

Top Notch
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Tom Dolden

hard hvs
Tom Doldon - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with sam simpson 48

foot poped as i pulled on so lost the onsight there. anoying
efrance24234 - Lead RP - 14/May/12

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Mr Christian - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/12 with chris p duck

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Calum

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

admackie - 2012

Hard fell off after doing the bottom moves, trying to get comfy to put gear in, should have kept going.
Jake Young - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11 with Anna

Nick1812P - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/11 with Greg

Dibdawg - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Jeph Stewart

Hidden - Sep/11

First move was ok, it was the rest of it that nearly killed me. Felt sick after topping out. It looks so easy from the bottom...
manwithacam - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd dog - 13/Aug/11 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11

very hard first move - top roped after back off of lead due to first move and piss poor landing, made life difficult by using wrong crack for layback
benjio - TR dog - 30/Jul/11

andybirtwistle - Lead - 26/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/11

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Trevor

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/11 with John Inkpen

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with liv_the_div

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11

chrisbussell - 2nd - 07/Jun/11 with Tim O'Neill

BrettB - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with tomas

brilliant but hard work!
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Nick

Rested once after first move, but definitely going to come back and get it clean. A brilliant route.
Nick1812P - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11 with Jamie

gw3285 - Lead - 17/Apr/11

Lack of oomph first lead of the day saw me hanging on the gear, silly.
Siderunner - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11 with Oli

Tough indeed, but with great climbing above it's worth the struggle.
jack89 - Lead dog - 16/Apr/11 with gaz_jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11

thekendo - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Chung-Hsien Cheng

Honrei - Lead - 09/Apr/11

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Mike

harold walmsley - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Neil McGovern

Wicked route proper top notch..!
gazfellows - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with shaun d

w.pettet-smith - Lead - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Mar/11

alasdair19 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Pown - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10

Did start/ weel found a new way up, then bailed! KP lead, well done!!!
climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10 with Kieran

Technical start doesn't suit the rest of the route, itself providing a bloody good work out. Personally I thought not worth the three stars but definately worth the walk up there!
freddieneame10 - Lead - Sep/10 with jonathan jones

Maxim2023 - Lead β - Sep/10 with Matt Smith

Knackering
DannyK - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Katie

3 star climbs are the way forward. Most of the jams are perfect, but still testing
Cake - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

bullwinkle - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/10 with Bart

Tough lay backing. Couldn't get my feet up to get to the upper cracks - next time!!
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10

Very nice, even the jamming bit!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Becca, Lisa, Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Tez29 - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with Ivan

Worked out crux but fell higher up from greasy jams. Amazing route, top end HVS
mark20 - Lead dog - 31/May/10

schaff - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Dan

nacnud - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Natalie Tanzer

abreen - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Joe Barker

Foot popped on the start, restarted from the ground clean.
riven - 2nd RP - 15/May/10 with Alisdar Breen

barni - Lead O/S - 12/May/10 with Paul James

liamoloughlin - Lead - 28/Apr/10

Pleasing
Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Dave Simpson

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with David Gilling

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/10

Skell - Lead O/S - 2010 with Kelvin

Hard start!
mattcyp88 - Lead β - 18/Oct/09 with Ian Faulkner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 29/Aug/09 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 29/Aug/09 with Wee man

:D
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Rob

Ketu - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/09 with Graeme H

Brown - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with John

robinsi197 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Nick

The layback start worked well and was well protected (high wire). I found the upper crack very sustained and a good jamming technique was required. A move near the top was the crux for me - my arms by this stage were weakening, but I just pulled it off. Luckily, the crack can take all the cams you can throw in it.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/09

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Graeme

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/09

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Mr. K - Lead dnf - 23/Nov/08 with Martin Parmiter

springything - 2nd dnf - 23/Nov/08 with Kyle Wood

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

al99 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

jw231 - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/08 with Al Benson

smudge - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/08 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/08

cem - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/08 with Mark O'Neill

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Daxman - TR - Jun/08 with Rick Clapham

Fell off on first move off the boulder. V hard start, especially for a newbie with no technique and a rubbish crimp!
teflonpete - 2nd dnf - Jun/08 with Alex

davidgent - Lead dog - May/08 with Lydia

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Jenny

Mr Powly - Lead dog - 13/Feb/08 with Charlie Baker

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Jun/07

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/07 with John M

doug s - Lead - 28/Mar/07 with mike

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007

this was VC 4c in the old book. We were a bit surprised.
wahniel - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - Solo - 10/Aug/06

ChrisBrooke - Lead dog - 10/Jun/06 with Caroline Davison

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/May/06

ArnaudG - 2006

This is lovely, step on and some thought required.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 2006 with James (LMC), Doug

Stig - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/05 with Jonathan Teale

Hidden - Lead - Aug/05

Reds - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/05 with Ralph

Scottish78 - 01/Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Nicos - Lead O/S - 17/May/04 with mark richardson

cem - Lead dog - 17/Apr/04 with Rod Strachan

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/03

Did the crux no problem but was completely flummoxed and pumped silly on the crack. Realised I had to learn to jam.
Stig - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/03 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - Lead - Mar/03

sdht - 2003

shoulders - Lead - 15/Jun/02 with paul

Peakology - Lead O/S - 2002 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 2002 with Dom Rich Sarah

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/01

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

A well named route, the first 10ft tears your hands up something terrible, with a very nasty landing waiting for you. Eases to something far more sensible after the first break & good gear Month is a guess.
adam carless - Lead O/S - Mar/00

Hidden - Jan/00

jonka - Lead - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/99

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 10/May/99

First climb in trainers
adamwesthead - 2nd O/S - 1999 with Wallis

Chris Ellis - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/98 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/97

Hidden - Solo - 14/Sep/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/95 with jon

Phil1967 - 2nd - Aug/95 with John Witham

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/95

rurp - 1995

Gordon Stainforth - Lead O/S - 07/May/94 with Steve Dean

rob.grafton - Lead - 30/Jul/91 with Bruce

steve prior - Lead - Dec/90

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

BRUCESTRAC - 1990 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 09/Apr/89 with Ernie Horrocks, Dan Morgan

Andy Say - Solo - 03/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/87

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/86

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - Jul/86 with Keith Jessop

shark - Lead - 27/Apr/86 with Paul Hempstock

malc - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/85

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 06/May/83

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jul/82

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/80

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Voting
Total votes cast 213
hard E10 of 75
E10 of 75
easy E124 of 75
hard HVS42 of 75
HVS9 of 75
easy HVS0 of 75
hard VS0 of 75
VS0 of 75
easy VS0 of 75
hard 5c0 of 73
5c1 of 73
easy 5c10 of 73
hard 5b42 of 73
5b20 of 73
easy 5b0 of 73
hard 5a0 of 73
5a0 of 73
easy 5a0 of 73
3 Stars51 of 65
2 Stars11 of 65
1 Star3 of 65
0 Stars0 of 65
Bag of .....0 of 65
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Style of ascent

Soloed8 of 240 (3.3%)
Lead141 of 240 (58.8%)
Followed64 of 240 (26.7%)
Toproped2 of 240 (0.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 240 (0.4%)
Unknown24 of 240 (10.0%)

'Climbed'84 of 240 (35.0%)
clean O/S89 of 240 (37.1%)
clean β5 of 240 (2.1%)
clean rpt11 of 240 (4.6%)
clean RP3 of 240 (1.2%)
dogged38 of 240 (15.8%)
dnf10 of 240 (4.2%)