Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard, but safe start and excellent jamming above. The dubious looking jammed tooth at half-height has resisted many years of efforts to wrench it from its socket. Finish up the right-hand crack for the full effect. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1953

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage *** HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

mark schramm 03/Oct Lead O/S
with emma, Chris E
chris ebbutt 03/Oct 2nd
with Emma, Mark
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd
rajeshwarbisht 27/Sep Lead dnf
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 27/Sep Lead O/S
DanChad 20/Sep Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 20/Sep 2nd

I'm not as young as I used to be.....

pete1993 07/Sep 2nd O/S
amccann 07/Sep Lead rpt
with bstoker95, Pete B
Ian Hylands 29/Aug 2nd dog

Still really hard on second! Had to hang on rope to retrieve some gear low down, but then needed to rest again on top part where I fell out of the jams the first time. So tough!!

with Richard Williams, Katy Mouritz
Hidden 23/Aug Lead
pearson9596 16/Aug 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 16/Aug Lead O/S
RKirke 15/Aug Lead O/S
Stroppy 15/Aug 2nd O/S

Tricky start

atom 09/Aug Lead dnf

Placed good gear and then couldn't even start, will come back to this when i'm more proficient in fridge hugging on fingertip crimps or have more spring in my legs to jump for the first hold

AJ007 08/Aug Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Aug 2nd O/S
Keith Swainson 01/Aug Lead O/S
with Matt Levick
mapperley samurai 27/Jun Lead G/U

Fluffed the opening sequence and ended up lower than the starting point. Got it next time. Very sustained.

gavinpeach 16/Jun Lead G/U

Found layback moves at the beginning straight forward. Initially made a mistake with a jam after the first rest. Lowered off and climbed clean second attempt. Brilliant route with bomber jams and gear. Last of the 3 star stanage HVS routes for me to attempt.

with Hellen
Lukem6 07/Jun Lead rpt

clean finally

Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 23/May Lead dnf

Fell off first move on first attempt (glad I placed a wire from the ground), then got massive pump I couldn't get rid of and fell on last move. Great gear, thankfully. Better footwork may have saved the hands, and need some jamming practise. Nate clipped gear and finished. Kevin seconded. I'd enough. Not a good warm-up!

with Kevin, Nate
dom94 22/May Lead RP

Dogged up it about a year ago, still nails

with ben k
Andy Fielding 17/May 2nd
with Mike Walton
mikeyjbs 24/Apr 2nd O/S
with mat downes
JLD 24/Apr Lead O/S
drysori 18/Apr TR
Mowglee 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Ali
Canyak ??/2015 -
BillyRidal 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 18/Oct/14 Lead
with David Forster
Jack93 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

Slipped off the very first move the first time and got it the second. Really hard for 5b

benlatham07 07/Sep/14 TR RP
colin milton 05/Sep/14 2nd
with shaun l
onlyfoddington 09/Aug/14 2nd dog

Struggled to get my feet in the first break. Gave everything the first time and slipped just when I thought I had done it. ater found an easier way of doing it but was destroyed by then. I found the last section of crack pretty hard as well.

with Michael
pearson9596 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Olli-C 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 20/Jun/14 Lead
with Mike
Lukem6 12/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with tom perry
Tony Holdsworth 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Peter Harris
chinkus303 31/May/14 2nd β
phil64 17/May/14 Lead O/S
franhammond92 14/May/14 2nd
MSchobitz 14/May/14 Lead dog

Really hard moves off the ground, though with great gear. Massively pumped after doing some weird layback moves to get to the crack. Then rested several times before managing to finish in one. All in all a terrible effort on a pretty nice route.

Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
markfairbank 18/Apr/14 Lead dog

Hard start! (5c?)

with Phil Wadsworth
farmerwad 18/Apr/14 2nd

pulled up first move

with Mark
Woodiee 18/Apr/14 Lead dog

probably not the best choice for last route of the day. tricky moves off the floor leading to the VS, but nice moves above - another lesson in improving jams!

Mick r 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Ian Storey, Dave L
chris smith 09/Mar/14 Lead dog

Nails for the grade

with Malcolm watson
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
AMJ098 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Really nice route, one hardish move off the ground, then sinker jams and jugs all the way.

tgeh 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

standard hvs, 1 strenuous move at the start then bomber jamming with a sit down rest half way

with adam jordan, dan geh
MatthewH 29/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd dog
gmatthew 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Skullfire 20/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 10/Jul/13 2nd dog
pelvoux 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Use the big rock at the bottom. Still hard in the first 5 meters

with Stephen
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
TDSvejstrup 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd β
caradoc 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

A tough move right at the top nearly wrecked my hard work below.

with john b
migs493 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
PaulTanton 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I think the first move is 5C but well protected. Nice climbing above.

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Lukem6 27/May/13 Lead dog


JBudzynski 27/May/13 2nd dog
JulesV 25/May/13 -
dr_botnik 19/May/13 2nd O/S

tough start

stevetheleg 06/May/13 2nd
with Theo Moore
theomoore 06/May/13 Lead RP
nai 04/May/13 2nd
with Neil, Tom2t
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 04/May/13 2nd
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
mark4344 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

really hard work. bottom moves tough and perfect hand jamming needed at top.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 21/Apr/13 2nd dog
ajc 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mel
Gambit 07/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Barney
Voltemands 20/Mar/13 2nd dog

Bloody hard start, not sure if that's because it was the last climb of the day or not. Probably, not.

with Amy Till, Carlene HIll
john lynch 05/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with ed luke, adam harrison
Apharri 05/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Boy 09/Sep/12 Lead
with Jon Coe
Climbster 03/Sep/12 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

If you can do the move off the deck the rest ain't too bad.

with Matt
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd
hotfeet 12/Aug/12 Lead
with Fraser Campbell, Mark MacDonald
Blue68 12/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Fell off about ten times before I got past the first hard move then fell off again at the next move, could feel the rope rubbing each time and decided enough was enough!

with Fraser Campbell, Alan Mountford
deacondeacon 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Really hot day, just scraped over the top, Not a proper onsight as I climbed Doctors Saunter a few years ago.

R2B 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Harri777 23/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Spent ages working the first few moves, got there eventually but was too pumped to do the rest! Hard.

with Ian Lau
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
max_chan 05/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell off trying to rush due to the pouring rain.

with Trevor Wilson
kitch22 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with John Proctor
ianjfsutcliffe 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Tough warm up.

with Courty
M_W_Court 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Top Notch

Tom Doldon 23/May/12 2nd O/S

hard hvs

with sam simpson 48
efrance24234 14/May/12 Lead RP

foot poped as i pulled on so lost the onsight there. anoying

simonp ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Obi-Wan is lost... 11/Mar/12 Lead
with Calum
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
Jake Young 22/Oct/11 Lead dog

Hard fell off after doing the bottom moves, trying to get comfy to put gear in, should have kept going.

with Anna
Nick1812P 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Greg
Dibdawg 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Jeph Stewart
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
manwithacam 14/Aug/11 Lead

First move was ok, it was the rest of it that nearly killed me. Felt sick after topping out. It looks so easy from the bottom...

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 13/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 31/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Hui
benjio 30/Jul/11 TR dog

very hard first move - top roped after back off of lead due to first move and piss poor landing, made life difficult by using wrong crack for layback

andybirtwistle 26/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead
Jim Slater 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Trevor Wilson
ChrisBrooke 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
fatbuoybazza 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
chrisbussell 07/Jun/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
BrettB 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with tomas
JamieSparkes 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S

brilliant but hard work!

with Nick
Nick1812P 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

Rested once after first move, but definitely going to come back and get it clean. A brilliant route.

with Jamie
gw3285 17/Apr/11 Lead
Siderunner 17/Apr/11 Lead dog

Lack of oomph first lead of the day saw me hanging on the gear, silly.

with Oli
jack89 16/Apr/11 Lead dog

Tough indeed, but with great climbing above it's worth the struggle.

gaz_jones 16/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
thekendo 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Chung-Hsien Cheng
Honrei 09/Apr/11 Lead
thomasadixon 01/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
harold walmsley 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Neil McGovern
gazfellows 19/Mar/11 Lead

Wicked route proper top notch..!

with shaun d
w.pettet-smith 19/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Pown 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
climbing_rocks1983 18/Sep/10 2nd dog

Did start/ weel found a new way up, then bailed! KP lead, well done!!!

with Kieran
freddieneame10 ?/Sep/10 Lead

Technical start doesn't suit the rest of the route, itself providing a bloody good work out. Personally I thought not worth the three stars but definately worth the walk up there!

with jonathan jones
Maxim2023 ?/Sep/10 Lead β
with Matt Smith
DannyK 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S


with Katie
Cake 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S

3 star climbs are the way forward. Most of the jams are perfect, but still testing

with Matt
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 20/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Bart
Lumbering Oaf 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Tough lay backing. Couldn't get my feet up to get to the upper cracks - next time!!

thomasadixon 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Very nice, even the jamming bit!

with Becca, Lisa, Alan
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ivan
mark20 31/May/10 Lead dog

Worked out crux but fell higher up from greasy jams. Amazing route, top end HVS

schaff 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
nacnud 22/May/10 Lead O/S
abreen 15/May/10 Lead O/S
riven 15/May/10 2nd RP

Foot popped on the start, restarted from the ground clean.

with Alisdar Breen
barni 12/May/10 Lead O/S
with Paul James
liamoloughlin 28/Apr/10 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt


with Dave Simpson
drcorbasisgod 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
Skell ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
mattcyp88 18/Oct/09 Lead β

Hard start!

with Ian Faulkner
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 29/Aug/09 Lead
disturbed_one51 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Wee man
Graeme Hammond 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with Rob
Ketu 12/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Brown 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with John
robinsi197 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Jun/09 Lead

The layback start worked well and was well protected (high wire). I found the upper crack very sustained and a good jamming technique was required. A move near the top was the crux for me - my arms by this stage were weakening, but I just pulled it off. Luckily, the crack can take all the cams you can throw in it.

mtempest 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead
howlingbaboon 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Graeme
dan gibson 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Mr. K 23/Nov/08 Lead dnf
springything 23/Nov/08 2nd dnf
Andrew Sloan 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
al99 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
jw231 30/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Al Benson
smudge 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead O/S
cem 13/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Mark O'Neill
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Daxman ?/Jun/08 TR
with Rick Clapham
teflonpete ?/Jun/08 2nd dnf

Fell off on first move off the boulder. V hard start, especially for a newbie with no technique and a rubbish crimp!

with Alex
davidgent ?/May/08 Lead dog
with Lydia
Chriswallis2 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Mr Powly 13/Feb/08 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead dog
mje1398 28/Apr/07 2nd dog
with John M
doug s 28/Mar/07 Lead
with mike
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
wahniel 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S

this was VC 4c in the old book. We were a bit surprised.

with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 11/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
ChrisBrooke 10/Jun/06 Lead dog
with Caroline Davison
Hidden 06/May/06 Solo O/S
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
howifeel ??/2006 Lead O/S

This is lovely, step on and some thought required.

with James (LMC), Doug
Stig 09/Aug/05 2nd rpt
with Jonathan Teale
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
Reds 23/Apr/05 Lead dnf
with Ralph
Scottish78 01/Apr/05 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Nicos 17/May/04 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
cem 17/Apr/04 Lead dog
with Rod Strachan
petekeron ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Stig 15/Jul/03 2nd dog

Did the crux no problem but was completely flummoxed and pumped silly on the crack. Realised I had to learn to jam.

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead
sdht ??/2003 -
shoulders 15/Jun/02 Lead
with paul
Peakology ??/2002 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dom Rich Sarah
Hidden 07/Oct/01 Lead
Ropeboy 02/Jul/01 Lead

Finished in the dark :-)

with Bunny
lost.arrow 24/Jun/01 Lead
with Paul Palfreyman, Gill Heartly
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
adam carless ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S

A well named route, the first 10ft tears your hands up something terrible, with a very nasty landing waiting for you. Eases to something far more sensible after the first break & good gear Month is a guess.

Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 10/May/99 2nd
adamwesthead ??/1999 2nd O/S

First climb in trainers

with Wallis
Chris Ellis 28/Jun/98 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/97 Solo
Roget 29/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Phil1967 ?/Aug/95 2nd
with John Witham
Hidden 29/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/95 Lead O/S
rurp ??/1995 -
Gordon Stainforth 07/May/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Dean
rob.grafton 30/Jul/91 Lead
with Bruce
steve prior ?/Dec/90 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
tapley 12/Aug/89 -
Chris Ellis 09/Apr/89 2nd
with Ernie Horrocks, Dan Morgan
Andy Say 03/Jun/88 Solo
Hidden 30/Aug/87 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/86 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Keith Jessop
shark 27/Apr/86 Lead
with Paul Hempstock
malc 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
uphillnow 24/Jun/84 Lead

Lead in 1970s with Alan Bennet but again as dated

charlesmfrench 06/May/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/82 Solo
Hidden 25/Aug/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 85
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set