Derbyshire > Stanage End >
 
Valediction* HVS 5a

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[Valediction, 2 kb]8m. Climb this through overhangs on jams and hidden jugs. Short-lived but worthwhile. © ROCKFAX
FA. Geoff Sutton 1959

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: Valediction © Albie
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 240 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

Tony Holdsworth - 2nd - 06/Jun/14 with Peter Harris

spragglerocks - Lead rpt - 18/May/14 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/14

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Beth heatherington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Nordie_matt - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Tom redmond

Tom Redmond - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with matt ferris

1 bit of gear in low from mates failed go
Nye Meerkat - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14

mol - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Jesse

brownie mike - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

Stanage HVS
migs493 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with LO

Never has the phrase, 'steeper than it looks' seemed more appropriate. Steeper than it looks here- http://youtu.be/IcFdg-BLTHA
caradoc - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with john b

Bit disapointing
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Helen Fawcett

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

JulesV - 25/May/13

nai - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Neil, Tom2t

Fun
slacky - 04/May/13 with Tom Crane, Ian

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

ajc - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Mel

psychomansam - Lead - 10/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/13

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/12

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/12 with Fran

franhammond92 - 2nd - 13/Sep/12

twice
Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with rob dyer

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Stu Inchley

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Aug/12 with Dave Dewhurst

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/12

LJKing - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Bud Chawla

Could have gone clean (I think!) but had to spend a lot of time working a stuck cam. Eventually lowered LJKing who fought it and won.
budchawla - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/12 with Laurence King

adam carless - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/12 with barra

tompilgrem - Lead β - 19/Jun/12 with Nick/D

great lead by Tom- laybacked throughout.
bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Tom/Nic

Made a right meal of this one. I blame the heat, but I also faffed about trying to place a hex for some time.
seanlikeskites - Lead dog - 27/May/12 with Jack Pattinson

jockpat - 2nd dnf - 27/May/12 with Sean Enderby

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Tom Dolden

Tom Doldon - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with sam simpson 48

Tom Doldon - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with sam simpson 48

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/12

Maxim2023 - 2nd - Mar/12

Climber1806 - Lead RP - Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

fifth - 2012

admackie - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

more pleasant than expected
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Oct/11

Never fought so hard for a HVS.
Ffej - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Jeph Stewart

Extremely pumped
Jimbo C - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Pete

Bollocks
fatbuoybazza - Lead dog - 10/Sep/11 with Mikael

Fine lead by James, good holds when needed, good jamming practise either way!
mattgrange - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with James Dynes

LardClimber - Lead - 28/Aug/11 with matt grange

Ahab - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11

welcome to the gritstone crack
manwithacam - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Joris

petellis - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Chuck Norris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/11 with James

No second.
jshields - Lead - 24/Jul/11

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Trevor

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with John Inkpen

spragglerocks - 2nd RP - 02/Jul/11 with Rachel Batt

Brilliant fun just messed up footwork in the niche (crux?) and not strong enough (yet!) to hold on to sort it out without a rest. Stick no. 1 camalot in crack and go straight for the top of the flake thing. No. 3 above your head. Step left foot out and smear, move right up to hold on face and pull round onto ledge. Phew.
Batt - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11 with rachael spraggs

Horrible! Too hot!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 14/Jun/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Becca

chrisbussell - 2nd - 07/Jun/11 with Tim O'Neill

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 24/May/11 with DICS HArry, DICS Pete, DICS chris

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Big Al, Big Frank

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Fat Tim - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Mallia

Bloody hard work for such a short climb
joemallia - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Fidel Sciamanna

Nice
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Oli

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 09/Apr/11

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Ralph, Tom Nichols

harold walmsley - 2nd rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Neil McGovern

David Smith - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Biggest sandbag ever, took many a lob the year before then went back and led it.
thedoctorisin - 2011

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/10

This was good and a bit of a fight. Good gear if you hang around to place it.
SGD - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - TR RP - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Aug/10

Fell off in my new rock-boots...annoying.
DavidR - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

KeithW - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Mike Nuttall

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/10

Had to rest, really unfit at this point
Matthew Robinson - Lead - Aug/10

Hidden jugs my arse
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 09/Jul/10 with Sam Stringer

philboy - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/10 with matt g

Pilch - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Graham, Ed

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Dad, Adam Youd, Jon Taylor

davidwright - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Had 2x rests. Fab climb! Would like to do again. Great gear (cams) and very safe. Just need to commit more to the bottom section and not hang around as long
andrea83 - Lead dog - 17/Jun/10 with Peak CC

Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Josh Sykes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

Tez29 - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Todd, Tom, Mousey

schaff - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Jimbo

Brutal
Jimbo C - 2nd - 23/May/10 with Lassa

nacnud - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Natalie Tanzer

Shauna - Lead O/S - 21/May/10 with Steve

abreen - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Joe Barker

riven - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Alisdar Breen

barni - Lead O/S - 12/May/10 with Paul James

Quite strenuous, but very good. Done in a hail storm (in May!)
slacky - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

Tried it as a warm-up, I was cold, it was cold, it was a bad idea! Lesson learnt!
viking - Lead dnf - May/10 with wilbur

liamoloughlin - Lead - 28/Apr/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Cameron

Hidden - 21/Apr/10

mike lawrence? - Lead - 21/Apr/10 with James the Navigator

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Dave Simpson

Did as first route, very cold day, nasty wind. Bad idea. One rest just before the ledge on the left. Straightforward once I stopped for a second to think...
Si dH - Lead dog - 15/Apr/10 with Gary

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with David Gilling

joese7en - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/10

metal arms - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

not seconded
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Ken Taylor - 2010

Skell - Lead O/S - 2010 with Kelvin

feilx - Solo rpt - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/09

Lisaaa - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Mike Watson

Brown - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09 with James T

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Rob

Ketu - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/09 with Graeme H

Kirill - Lead dog - 12/Jul/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/09 with Kirill Spiridonov

theo.mooney - 2nd - Jul/09 with Mary Moloney

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

Hidden - 31/May/09

krikoman - Lead rpt - 10/May/09 with Kev Gibbs

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Tom

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Becca

Found this alright, just bouldered up the first moves, laybacking, with one hex placed from the floor. Up to a big jug in the left all and place some in the flake, then awkward layback moves lead up to the ledge and wider crack. Fist jam your way up this, layback is a little scary.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

Hardest moves early, laying back to the rest ledge
KeithW - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with Clive Greenwood

chrisbussell - 2nd - 13/Apr/09 with Tim O'Neill

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Keith

Hardcore Pat - Lead - 13/Apr/09 with Chris Vanderz

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09

Snowing and freezing cold
paul.valentine - 2nd dog - 01/Feb/09 with Mike Buddle

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/09

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Oct/08

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Sep/08

Pete Randall - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/08 with Albie

swoosh - Lead - 17/Aug/08 with Jamie Armatage

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - TR - 09/Jun/08

1 fall, which was me being really stupid.
Ben1983 - Lead dog - 07/Jun/08

alisonk - 2nd - Jun/08 with Alex

Ian Parnell - Solo - 30/May/08

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/08

petellis - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Liam O'Loughlin

My first HVS lead. A great route with plenty of pro if you're strong enough to place it! Fell off once, but certainly didn't dog it. Plenty of puffing and panting by the end of it though.
krikoman - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Kev Gibbs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

good jamming.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Tony and Dan

doug s - Lead - 28/Mar/07 with mike

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007

Caralynh - 2nd - 09/Oct/06 with Dave

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/06 with Cara-lyn Reynolds

wahniel - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - Solo - 10/Aug/06

colin milton - 2nd - 28/Jun/06 with pep

adam carless - 2nd O/S - May/06 with James Rowe

dan gibson - 2006

ArnaudG - 2006

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/05

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/05

PenJD - Lead O/S - 15/May/05 with Arnaud Garcon

Hidden - Lead - Jan/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/04

Laramadness - 2nd β - 02/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/03

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 31/May/03 with A. Murray

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/03

Unseconded
cem - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/03

John Marsland - Lead - 16/Mar/03 with Ant Williams

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Hidden - Lead - Aug/02

lithos - Lead dog - Jul/02 with john byrne

shoulders - Lead - 15/Jun/02 with paul

Hidden - 2002

kp64zl - Lead - Sep/01 with Philip S, Giles

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 22/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 22/Aug/00 with Kaspar Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/00

Hidden - Lead - 11/Mar/00

Hidden - Jan/00

Boy - 2000

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 22/May/99

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Feb/98

Roget - Solo rpt - 29/Oct/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/95

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/94

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/93

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/May/92 with ChrisC

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 17/Jul/91 with Dan Morgan

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/90

BRUCESTRAC - 1990 with Chris Cracknell,Various

tapley - 12/Aug/89

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1988 with chris jones, jim

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1986 with Giles

babymoac - Lead - 27/Jul/85 with MTW

John Marsland - Lead - 27/Oct/84 with Dave Mould

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 06/May/83

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Aug/80

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/78

rogerskews - 1976 with Martin Coward

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Benn A, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, philboy, Fat Tim, PebblePusher, rocktigger, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Chalky Cat, climbinmunkey, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 150
hard E10 of 53
E10 of 53
easy E10 of 53
hard HVS7 of 53
HVS41 of 53
easy HVS3 of 53
hard VS2 of 53
VS0 of 53
easy VS0 of 53
hard 5b0 of 51
5b0 of 51
easy 5b4 of 51
hard 5a19 of 51
5a24 of 51
easy 5a2 of 51
hard 4c2 of 51
4c0 of 51
easy 4c0 of 51
3 Stars1 of 46
2 Stars25 of 46
1 Star18 of 46
0 Stars1 of 46
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Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 240 (4.6%)
Lead136 of 240 (56.7%)
Followed67 of 240 (27.9%)
Toproped3 of 240 (1.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 240 (0.4%)
Unknown22 of 240 (9.2%)

'Climbed'94 of 240 (39.2%)
clean O/S100 of 240 (41.7%)
clean β4 of 240 (1.7%)
clean rpt17 of 240 (7.1%)
clean RP3 of 240 (1.2%)
dogged18 of 240 (7.5%)
dnf4 of 240 (1.7%)