Rockfax Description
Climb this through overhangs on jams and hidden jugs. Short-lived but quite intense and very worthwhile. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Sutton 1959

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Hidden 22/May 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 07/May Solo O/S
Hidden 07/May 2nd β
codenamel 20/Apr Lead O/S
shark 25/Mar Solo O/S


with Ben & Tom
Chris M 12/Mar Lead
with Dan G
Hidden ??/2016 -
nick ferro 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Felt pumpy, but gear really good, HVS.

with Oli Birkill
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Solo
Tony Holdsworth 11/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Andy Sloan
Andrew Sloan 11/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Tony Holdsworth
greenclimb 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/15 2nd
RKirke 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Stroppy 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
AJ007 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
mike8331 02/Aug/15 Lead
djones66 02/Aug/15 Lead

Was glad of having high runners placed before I started up the route in earnest. Very grunty. Excellent 2.5 friend in the crack above the niche. Recommend finishing up the arÍte for the 'summit experience'.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Jon
Andy Fielding 17/May/15 Lead
with Mike Walton
TonyF 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Macleod 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
peppermill 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
samwillo 06/Feb/15 Solo
Canyak ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd O/S
morganator 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Al Willoner
Nick Wallis 12/Oct/14 Lead β
with Jon, Dave Sykes
Hardcore Pat 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Dr Julie
Jack93 21/Sep/14 Lead β
Tommy Moore 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Joe had a go or two and we both fought our way up it.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Tony Holdsworth 06/Jun/14 2nd
with Peter Harris
spragglerocks 18/May/14 Lead rpt
with Matt
steveb2006 21/Apr/14 Lead
efrance24234 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Tom Redmond 18/Apr/14 Lead
Nye Meerkat 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

1 bit of gear in low from mates failed go

mol 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Jesse
brownie mike 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
migs493 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
caradoc 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Never has the phrase, 'steeper than it looks' seemed more appropriate. Steeper than it looks here- http://youtu.be/IcFdg-BLTHA

with john b
PaulTanton 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Bit disapointing

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
JulesV 25/May/13 -
nai 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Neil, Tom2t
Hidden 04/May/13 -
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
ajc 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mel
psychomansam 10/Apr/13 Lead
RM199 10/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Apr/13 Solo rpt
oread ??/2013 2nd
deacondeacon 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Jake Young 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Fran
franhammond92 13/Sep/12 2nd
Nick1812P 13/Sep/12 Solo O/S


Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
stuart34 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Rob84 31/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Nigel Bond 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Dave Dewhurst
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd
LJKing 11/Aug/12 Lead
with Bud Chawla
budchawla 11/Aug/12 2nd dog

Could have gone clean (I think!) but had to spend a lot of time working a stuck cam. Eventually lowered LJKing who fought it and won.

adam carless 28/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with barra
tompilgrem 19/Jun/12 Lead β
with Nick/D
bobpilgrem 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S

great lead by Tom- laybacked throughout.

with Tom/Nic
seanlikeskites 27/May/12 Lead dog

Made a right meal of this one. I blame the heat, but I also faffed about trying to place a hex for some time.

jockpat 27/May/12 2nd dnf
Sam Simpson 23/May/12 2nd O/S
Tom Doldon 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with sam simpson 48
Tom Doldon 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with sam simpson 48
Somerset swede basher 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead G/U
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/12 2nd
Climber1806 ?/Mar/12 Lead RP
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Scott Anderson ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 2nd
with Rich
benkelsey 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

more pleasant than expected

Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead β
Ffej 15/Oct/11 2nd dog

Never fought so hard for a HVS.

with Alan Dibben
Dibdawg 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jeph Stewart
Jimbo C 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Extremely pumped

with Pete
fatbuoybazza 10/Sep/11 Lead dog


with Mikael
mattgrange 28/Aug/11 2nd

Fine lead by James, good holds when needed, good jamming practise either way!

LardClimber 28/Aug/11 Lead
Ahab 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 14/Aug/11 Lead

welcome to the gritstone crack

with Joris
petellis 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Chuck Norris
Joris.Roulleau 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 26/Jul/11 Lead rpt
jshields 24/Jul/11 Lead

No second.

Jim Slater 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
MikeDowsett 17/Jul/11 2nd
with John Harrison
ChrisBrooke 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
spragglerocks 02/Jul/11 2nd RP
Batt 02/Jul/11 Lead dog

Brilliant fun just messed up footwork in the niche (crux?) and not strong enough (yet!) to hold on to sort it out without a rest. Stick no. 1 camalot in crack and go straight for the top of the flake thing. No. 3 above your head. Step left foot out and smear, move right up to hold on face and pull round onto ledge. Phew.

BeccaSnowden 14/Jun/11 Lead dog

Horrible! Too hot!

with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Becca
chrisbussell 07/Jun/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
JamieSparkes 24/May/11 2nd O/S
with DICS HArry, DICS Pete, DICS chris
ianjfsutcliffe 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Big Al, Big Frank
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Fat Tim 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
joemallia 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Bloody hard work for such a short climb

Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Mowglee 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Ralph, Tom Nichols
harold walmsley 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Neil McGovern
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
ollie_e ??/2011 -

Biggest sandbag ever, took many a lob the year before then went back and led it.

Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
SGD 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

This was good and a bit of a fight. Good gear if you hang around to place it.

Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR RP
Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR O/S
DavidR 08/Aug/10 2nd dog

Fell off in my new rock-boots...annoying.

KeithW 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Nuttall
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
Jonathan Hall 09/Jul/10 Lead

Hidden jugs my arse

philboy 08/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with matt g
Pilch 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Graham, Ed
Nick Rundall 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dad, Adam Youd, Jon Taylor
davidwright 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
andrea83 17/Jun/10 Lead dog

Had 2x rests. Fab climb! Would like to do again. Great gear (cams) and very safe. Just need to commit more to the bottom section and not hang around as long

with Peak CC
Karl Wooffindin 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Josh Sykes
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Tez29 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Todd, Tom, Mousey
schaff 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
Jimbo C 23/May/10 2nd


with Lassa
nacnud 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
abreen 15/May/10 Lead O/S
riven 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Alisdar Breen
barni 12/May/10 Lead O/S
with Paul James
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
viking ?/May/10 Lead dnf

Tried it as a warm-up, I was cold, it was cold, it was a bad idea! Lesson learnt!

with wilbur
liamoloughlin 28/Apr/10 Lead
ian d f 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Cameron
cameron_hall 24/Apr/10 2nd

Too long ago - no idea if I did this cleanly or not.

Hidden 21/Apr/10 -
mike lawrence? 21/Apr/10 Lead
with James the Navigator
Tony Holdsworth 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Dave Simpson
Si dH 15/Apr/10 Lead dog

Did as first route, very cold day, nasty wind. Bad idea. One rest just before the ledge on the left. Straightforward once I stopped for a second to think...

with Gary
drcorbasisgod 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
joese7en 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
metal arms 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt

not seconded

with Pete aka Dad
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Skell ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
feilx 10/Oct/09 Solo rpt
tebs 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Backed off this as didn't want to push it

with Rach
Lisaaa 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Watson
Brown 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with James T
Graeme Hammond 12/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Rob
Ketu 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Kirill 12/Jul/09 Lead dog
cem 12/Jul/09 2nd rpt
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 2nd
with Mary Moloney
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 -
krikoman 10/May/09 Lead rpt
BeccaSnowden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Becca
Reaver2k 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Found this alright, just bouldered up the first moves, laybacking, with one hex placed from the floor. Up to a big jug in the left all and place some in the flake, then awkward layback moves lead up to the ledge and wider crack. Fist jam your way up this, layback is a little scary.

with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
KeithW 13/Apr/09 2nd dog

Hardest moves early, laying back to the rest ledge

with Clive Greenwood
chrisbussell 13/Apr/09 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
clive-greenwood 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Keith
Hardcore Pat 13/Apr/09 Lead
with Chris Vanderz
DanH9883 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
paul.valentine 01/Feb/09 2nd dog

Snowing and freezing cold

with Mike Buddle
Hidden ?/Jan/09 2nd
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead dog
Adam Potter 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead dog
Pete Randall 20/Sep/08 2nd dog
with Albie
swoosh 17/Aug/08 Lead
with Jamie Armatage
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 TR
Ben1983 07/Jun/08 Lead dog

1 fall, which was me being really stupid.

alisonk ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Alex
Ian Parnell 30/May/08 Solo
Andrew Sloan 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
petellis 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Rob Davies 20/Oct/07 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
krikoman 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead. A great route with plenty of pro if you're strong enough to place it! Fell off once, but certainly didn't dog it. Plenty of puffing and panting by the end of it though.

Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd
Alex Mason 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S

good jamming.

with Tony and Dan
doug s 28/Mar/07 Lead
with mike
The old James turnbull ??/2007 Lead
Caralynh 09/Oct/06 2nd
with Dave
Pythonist 09/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Cara-lyn Reynolds
wahniel 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
colin milton 28/Jun/06 2nd
with pep
adam carless ?/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Jun/05 2nd dog
reg_measures 05/Jun/05 Lead O/S
PenJD 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 21/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
Laramadness 02/Aug/03 2nd β
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 31/May/03 Lead
with A. Murray
Hidden 18/Apr/03 Solo O/S
cem 06/Apr/03 Lead O/S


John Marsland 16/Mar/03 Lead
with Ant Williams
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
lithos ?/Jul/02 Lead dog
with john byrne
shoulders 15/Jun/02 Lead
with paul
Hidden ??/2002 -
kp64zl ?/Sep/01 Lead
with Philip S, Giles
Carl Smethurst 22/Jul/01 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Martin Bennett 27/Jun/01 -
with Phil
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
goi.ashmore 22/Aug/00 Lead β
with Kaspar Martin
Hidden 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
Boy ??/2000 -
buxtoncoffeelover 22/May/99 Lead
Hidden 18/Feb/98 2nd
Roget 29/Oct/95 Solo rpt
with jon
Hidden 29/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1994 2nd


Hidden 13/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Solo O/S
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Hidden 19/May/92 Lead
Chris Ellis 17/Jul/91 2nd
with Dan Morgan
Hidden 14/Jun/90 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
tapley 12/Aug/89 -
Roget ??/1988 2nd O/S
with chris jones, jim
GordonHart ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Giles
babymoac 27/Jul/85 Lead
with MTW
John Marsland 27/Oct/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
charlesmfrench 06/May/83 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/80 Lead
Mark Kemball 23/Aug/80 Lead
Rob Davies 18/May/80 2nd
with Mick Moss
Hidden ?/May/80 -
Hidden 13/Aug/78 Lead O/S
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with Martin Coward
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mapperley samurai, George Killaspy, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Benn A, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, philboy, Fat Tim, PebblePusher, rocktigger, Hidden, andybuckley, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Chalky Cat, climbinmunkey, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set