UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

23m.

Rockfax Description
The shallow depression right of Caveat Emptor gives a first-rate pitch. Make a steep entry to the shallow depression and proceed up it to finish via some steeper final moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The slight groove of sorts, some 8 metres upslope of 'Ring Tone' has a somewhat  'Tinternesque' feel about it. Solid enough while keeping to the line of the seven bolt runners. Start just to the right of 'Caveat Emptor'.
Surmount an awkward first bulge to easier ground in the white depression. Now follow a series of thin layaways while bridging up the steeper wall above before swinging left to a comfy resting ledge. Step back right to an agreeable steep finish. Double bolt abseil station.

Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 03/May/2008.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
Spaulding4 28 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb. Not good when it’s been wet: head towards gunshot sector and further around instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb. Not good when it’s been wet: head towards gunshot sector and further around instead.

Logged Ascents

616 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Still Nice and Still Sleazy

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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