Derbyshire > Stanage End >
 
Wild and Woolly* E1 5b

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[Charles Arthur attacking the sloping breaks of Wild and Woolly (E1 5b) at Stanage End, 3 kb]16m. From the collapsing wall, move left to good holds in the break. Climb straight up the wall, keeping just right of the arete, to reach the final ledge of Right-hand Tower. The original finish was up the left-hand side of the nose using a small flake at E2 5c though topping out as for Right-hand Tower is more in keeping with the lower section. © ROCKFAX
FA. Chris Craggs 1995

Photo: Charles Arthur attacking the sloping breaks of Wild and Woolly (E1 5b) at Stanage End © Penny Allchin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 69 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14

jogh - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Vincent

First proper E1, fantastically slopey!
youwillfindjimbo - Lead β - 22/Feb/14

a bit of urgency required at the third break, had to continue up. Rope useless at that point.
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with rich

MatthewH - 2nd - 29/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13

finished straight up, as seamed logical and the left hand finish looked harder
michael burrows - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Wyn, alexstudly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - 12/Jul/13

Gudge - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Helen B

Tough for E1 5b because quite pushy in bottom half. Ground fall if come off before second gear placement.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Ben Cole

Calder - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Mark

Diggler - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Calder

hard last move
Rick hard Rock - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12 with steve_yo

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/12

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with Wee man

Finished up right hand pillar most logical lline
Budge - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Carl Tiivas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Tough at grade.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Robin

The start feels a little bold until you get to about the 3rd break when you can get some useful gear in. If you like round slopey holds - this is the route for you.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Dave Foster

gazfellows - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with shaun d

mwatson - 2011

Guy Atkinson - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Rachel Burgess, Matt Tregellas, Ben Silvestre

treg - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Rachel, Ben, Guy Atkinson

Chris Craggs nightmare special delux version of a rounded shelf fest! Finished up right hand side, as i'd had plenty enough shenanigans by then
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/10

Climber1806 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/10

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Matt Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/10

Nice slopper
FlorianCastagne - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Cédric Claert

nacnud - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Natalie Tanzer

natalietanzer - 2nd - 22/May/10 with nacnud

mark20 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Jethro - Lead - Mar/10 with Richard Sharpe

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Tom Eagle

sadams - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Ed Brown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09

topped out as per suggested right hand tower finish, rounded holds but not too bad.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Rob

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Graeme H

Couldn't quite nail the crux
Lil'Lou - TR dnf - 05/Jul/09

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/09 with Tom

Original finish. Scary sloping holds all the way up!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Becca

Michael led, horrifically sloping holds all the way up! Couldnt help but think we were a bit far left when touching the arete so tried to keep further to the right but the holds really are quite bad, especially on a warm day! Good effort by Mike, left hand finish claiming the E2, found it quite hard, but was soon to find the right hand finish just as hard...
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09

figfour - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with ken

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/08

Right hand finish. Brilliant climb, love it :)
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/08 with Thea Williams

HughM - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Shane Norton

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007

great debate as to whether I went slightly off route!
Caralynh - TR - 13/Oct/06 with Fiend

dpmUK - 2nd - 13/Oct/06 with Fiend

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Oct/05

Almost fell off when my finger went funny, rapid retreat followed.
Lev - Lead dnf - 01/May/05 with Luke Thomas

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/04

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 01/May/04 with Anthony Hams

cem - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/04 with Rod Strachan

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Aug/03

cem - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/03 with Liam Mark, Neil Northrop

Nick Smith - UKC - TR - Aug/02 with Charles Arthur

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, SecretSquirrel, tatz45

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard E20 of 18
E21 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E17 of 18
E110 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c6 of 18
hard 5b8 of 18
5b4 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a0 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars1 of 19
2 Stars11 of 19
1 Star3 of 19
0 Stars4 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 69 (2.9%)
Lead39 of 69 (56.5%)
Followed23 of 69 (33.3%)
Toproped3 of 69 (4.3%)
Unknown2 of 69 (2.9%)

'Climbed'20 of 69 (29.0%)
clean O/S42 of 69 (60.9%)
clean β1 of 69 (1.4%)
clean rpt3 of 69 (4.3%)
dogged1 of 69 (1.4%)
dnf2 of 69 (2.9%)