Rockfax Description
The left-hand of the continuous cracks. Climb the thin lower section to good jams in the deeper upper section, then up this awkwardly to the top. Tricky but well protected. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
VS 5a in BMC.

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Tim Harper 31/Oct 2nd O/S
with Jack Poyner
Nick1812P 25/Oct 2nd rpt
with Tom A
Teappleby 25/Oct Lead
thetradlad 11/Oct 2nd O/S
georgenvk 11/Oct 2nd O/S
svdie 11/Oct 2nd
Andrew Sloan 11/Oct Lead rpt

Tough start and finish for VS.

with Tony Holdsworth
Harry Thorpe 10/Oct Lead O/S
DanChad 04/Oct Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 04/Oct 2nd

Felt pretty steady.

mark schramm 03/Oct Lead O/S
with emma, Chris E
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd
FlavioL1989 27/Sep Solo O/S
amccann 26/Sep Solo O/S
JamieSparkes 06/Sep Solo O/S

Excellent, new favourite stanage vs. ***

with solo
sheelba 05/Sep 2nd
waiting for snow 30/Aug 2nd dog
NOG 29/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 15/Aug Lead rpt

No. 18

Becks87 09/Aug 2nd O/S
with Adam L
atom 09/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug AltLd
Deezel65 06/Aug Lead O/S

Great - surprised to find the crux at the top though

with Chris
Hidden 06/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
anth12 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Leachy7
bullwinkle 18/Jul 2nd rpt
with Bart
djones66 12/Jul Lead

Lead after seconding 4 years ago. Hard to place gear on first bit, but the gear seemed to be reasonably good. More and better gear above. Good moves all the way. Hard finish.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 10/Jul 2nd O/S
keitht 05/Jul Lead

Hard moves off the ground.

with Dave Lomas
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun Lead O/S

2 Good job we were on a mission, I could easily have spent ages on this and got really pumped, but we we're psyched and in a rush so smashed up it

with Paul Deane
MSchobitz 12/Jun 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 12/Jun Lead O/S
with micki
MYox 07/Jun Lead O/S

First of the day: not all that easy, especially at the top, when you think it's all over.

with Jon
jonhowson 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks from the ground!

with Mark
toasted 30/May 2nd
with Tim Larrad
dj_brigham05 27/May Lead O/S
with Grant Harris
HannahGo 26/May TR dog
Hidden 23/May Lead
soph 21/May Solo O/S
with Tony Stone
Andy Fielding 17/May Lead
with Mike Walton
Hidden 10/May 2nd O/S
Chris M 10/May AltLd
Dave Mahon 04/May Lead

Hard for the grade. End of the day and a bit chilly which didn't help.

with Ben Knudson
Hidden 04/May 2nd O/S
kp64zl ?/May Lead
with Julian M
clams ?/May Lead

Stiff for the grade

with Catherine, Toby
GAHarris ?/May 2nd
CatMc ?/May 2nd dog
with Toby, clams
TP 19/Apr -
with Dave M
Hidden 19/Apr TR
Hidden 19/Apr TR
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd dog
markK6 18/Apr Lead O/S

Jumped off low down initially, remounted for second attempt, all went well this time with a long pause to view my options for the top. Tougher than it looks!

with Simon
OliverRoss 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Steph Kavanagh
Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
Ropeboy 14/Mar Lead O/S

Very cold day, couldn't really feel my hands. Hard start with poor gear and another thoughtful move near the top.

gavinpeach 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Hellen
Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead
Dan Hostford 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
greenclimb 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
TobyA 11/Oct/14 Lead
with Jody
Jody 11/Oct/14 2nd
with TobyA
benlatham07 14/Sep/14 TR O/S
mike8331 14/Sep/14 2nd
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 14 - scary move at the top made me wobble.

tim.fairhall 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Eric+Kasia
rurp 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with ben rowland, bill farmer
holly138 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Anne, Tom B
annep11 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Jules Lane 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great climb with superb moves in the lower part. Found it hard, climbing down about five times before committing to the key move left to get the jam in. Found top moves also pretty awkward. HVS in my book as more than 1 hard move.

with Mynydd Paul Justin
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
Jim Malo 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Martina, Mark
onlyfoddington 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Michael
pearson9596 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Lizzie Culwick, Dave Brock
Jake Young 03/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Dibdawg 18/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/14 Solo O/S

Scary solo at the top.

JonathanJones 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
MPSBunny 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Alex started up the lead with John taking photos from an ab line but decided after Second Sister to hand the lead over to John. Brannock made a short work of the start with an intricate series of moves before summoning his courage at the top to make a bold layback on a small lay-way enabling a blind reach to the last rounded break. Brannock provided some unrequested upwards force with his belaying!

Batt 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hoyes 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Solo
Palindrome 17/May/14 2nd O/S
batterj2 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Joe Farnell
farmerwad 18/Apr/14 Lead
with Mark
Woodiee 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
aking12 29/Mar/14 Lead
with Adam Fenton, Rosie Lynch
jogh 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Vincent
RosieLynch 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
vinni 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James
youwillfindjimbo 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
madasten 08/Sep/13 Lead

Brilliant little climb. Unexpected sting in the tail on the last move (crux?)

with Nicola, Gaz
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
gazfellows 08/Sep/13 Lead
with Billy nic, steff
MatthewH 29/Aug/13 Lead
Alex 74 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
with dave clay
Mike W 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 Lead β

alex led then dropped the rope and i led

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 27/Jul/13 Lead dog

Grabbed a cam at the start to place more gear. Needed more confidence.

Hidden 12/Jul/13 -
Gudge 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Helen B
helin 05/Jul/13 Lead
with chris
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
treg 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Agree with 5a. Felt glad to have several small cams.

with Dan Osbaldeston
Dan818 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead rpt
quickdrawmcraw 05/May/13 Lead
RCrockford 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Mike B
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Richard, Owen
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Solo O/S
Rob84 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Alex Messenger
JakeWShaw 03/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Fell off started again, got a bit further rested started again, couldn't commit to the final few moves. Felt hard for VS 4c

with Tom P
tompilgrem 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 20/Oct/12 Lead

Hard work for the grade but still VS.

jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with big Si
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
woodsy 06/Oct/12 Lead
with dave, rich
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead
Nick1812P 13/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Tim Rodgers 09/Sep/12 Lead
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

penultimate route. thought it was going to be hard but found it to be very pleasant all the way

J.Atkins 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Harri777 23/Jul/12 2nd
with Simon H
haydng 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hard for VS.

with RachelG
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
RMG 21/Jul/12 2nd
with haydng
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd β
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
icantthinkrightnow 15/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
LakesWinter 16/May/12 2nd

Tricky for VS.

with Mark R
mark20 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 05/May/12 2nd O/S
sopaz 15/Apr/12 2nd
pigeonslipper 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
the power 26/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
big djw ??/2012 2nd
adie84 ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
lozowen 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sally Owen
tsjx 15/Oct/11 2nd

John led

nutty_didz 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Josh Dickerson
AC 15/Oct/11 2nd dog
Dibdawg 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jeph Stewart
Ffej 15/Oct/11 2nd dog


with Alan Dibben
Josh Dickerson 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Mikael
djones66 10/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Good sequence up the obvious steep bit in the first half. Gear seems okay but a bit tricky to place.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
ffdalton ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excellant climb, top end VS.Tricky start.

with Dean Dalton
Jonathan Hall 29/Aug/11 Lead
Tamati 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 29/Aug/11 2nd
with Wee man
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
malc 15/Aug/11 2nd rpt
manwithacam 14/Aug/11 Lead
with Joris
Becky E 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
petellis 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Sloth
Joris.Roulleau 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd
Julie Carroll 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Williams
caradoc 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

tricky if you haven't been on grit for a while

with nick yapp
ChrisBrooke 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
rich_hw 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
max_chan 23/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Jobling
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf
stratandrew 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Bottom section easy enough. Top section very 'traditional'!

with Jim Symon, Colin Maddison
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Fran S8 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/11 2nd β
max_chan 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Phil PCC
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
stuaart 09/Apr/11 Lead dog

Had about a minute's rest on a cam. Poor show.

with Kat Torr, Thomas Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 09/Apr/11 2nd

Stu Lead

with Katherine Torr, Stuart Reeves
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/11 2nd O/S
shaky2 06/Apr/11 2nd
Sam Simpson 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S

good day to celebrate the clocks going forward! This being the highlight of the day

timofy 14/Mar/11 Lead dog

roped solo, 1 rest on gear

thekendo 14/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 14/Mar/11 Lead
with kenney
Josephine ??/2011 2nd
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
shed_hed 16/Oct/10 TR O/S
with Zoe Marshall
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd
Pete Nugent 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good climbing - top end VS

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
danoflynn 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Cat Black
benjizac 12/Sep/10 TR O/S
with Rory Juss
Climber1806 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Sep/10 Lead
johnwilson123 ?/Sep/10 -
with paul
jon_gill1 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with steve smith
bullwinkle 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie
clive-greenwood 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
tomB 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
nick ferro 05/Jun/10 -
tradguy 31/May/10 2nd rpt
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 31/May/10 Lead
lucasp 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Had problems near the top. Moved out left to bypass a hard move only to be confronted with a different kind of hard move.

with ditch
chrisallan 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
The Bad Cough 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Christian Minett
Si dH 15/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Gary
Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd O/S
jhardwick 10/Apr/10 2nd

Hard for vs

with chris vernon
kermit_uk 10/Apr/10 Lead dog
with Steve Woolass
AsleepOnBelay 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Found the top move hard for 4c, but well protected. Nice moves.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Mar/10 TR
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mattcyp88 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Brown
ian d f 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Zak
melonmike 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Lole
AJ007 20/Sep/09 Solo
dan gibson 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with AJ, michael porter
catblack 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Found this tricky for 4c, but then I'm not good at layback moves! Did this after 'second sister' and found second sister harder. (Though both are vs 4c aparently...mmmm)

with Dad
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead dog
Ben_Bullbridge 09/Sep/09 2nd β
with Milne
Milne 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with cooper
matthewjames 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Pretty hard for VS! Stepped up and put a good high cam in, some awkward laybacking then a really weird move pulling through a layback to a gaston to jam in crack to the left. Almost fell as my foot slipped off a small crystal on the left wall but managed to right myself and get a good old bomber hand jam in. Then the top move takes a bit of thinking about but when you figure it out its okay.

Mattyk 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 12/Jul/09 2nd rpt

found it easier today but still 5a

with Rob
Ketu 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd dog
Lil'Lou 05/Jul/09 TR
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
philboy 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with bisanth
Graeme Hammond 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

the warm up, or not found hard for grade (definatly 5a) especially the damp section that day at the top.

with Greg Slee
Shauna 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jules
vard 28/May/09 Lead O/S
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/09 Lead O/S


with Guy Buckingham
givemetea 25/Apr/09 TR O/S
garywong 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Perry Keller
lazybones 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with George Foster
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
b.hayley ?/Sep/08 Lead
Laurence Everitt 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
SimonBrown 08/Jun/08 Lead
with Mark Pilling
MaccMark 08/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 24/May/08 TR dog
jugglingeek 05/May/08 Lead β

Lead on partner's gear after he fell from near the top. some tricky moves near the end.

with Josh
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Tim Bateman ?/May/08 2nd
with Alistair
Alfredo ?/May/08 Lead
with Ben H
Andrew Sloan 30/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Richard
danm ?/Feb/08 Lead
with Sion
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dan gibson ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Pilch 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S

this felt hard for the grade

with Graham
malc 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Paul and Andy
PenJD 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth Smitton
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Solo
Chris the Tall 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Borderline HVS 5a - found the final moves quite committing

Another James 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Megan F
dan gibson 16/Jun/07 -
twodada 10/Jun/07 Lead
with Rich B and Kiwi Pete
mooseloose 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Keith
mje1398 03/Jun/07 2nd dog
with John M
Brown 01/May/07 Solo O/S
with John
Hodge 29/Apr/07 Lead

Need to check this, it might be another sister I climbed

with Dan
John Marsland 14/Apr/07 2nd
with John Haslam
Hidden 14/Apr/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
matthewss 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Miles & Sarah
nai ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Smeegan ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Owen
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
Pythonist 09/Oct/06 Solo O/S
with Cara-lyn Reynolds
wahniel 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Stewart McConnell
catt 25/Jun/06 2nd
with Will
Wilbur 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Iain
Hidden 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Stig 28/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Les
ewen ?/Apr/06 Lead
Paul Tomo 23/Mar/06 2nd
with Paul James
Si dH 18/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Karl Walton
al99 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
LoopyLou ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/05 Lead
cem 24/Apr/05 2nd
with Miles Butteriss
reg_measures 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Angela Kirby
ChrisBrooke 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 01/May/04 Lead O/S
with Anthony Hams
Nicos 29/Dec/03 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
Marq 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Blod 11/Oct/03 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd
rob.grafton 12/Apr/03 2nd
with Bruce
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead
shoulders 19/May/02 Lead
with tom
Hidden 04/May/02 Solo O/S
Alastair Hudson 24/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with Adam Lincoln
Roget 01/Jul/01 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden 06/May/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover 08/May/99 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/98 2nd O/S
babymoac 21/Jun/98 Lead
with Ken Prandy
Hidden ?/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/97 Solo
Hidden 16/Jul/96 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/96 -
tradguy 12/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 12/Jun/96 2nd
rurp ??/1996 -
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead
cragspud ??/1995 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones ??/1995 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 25/Aug/94 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Hidden 09/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
Hidden 14/Jun/90 Lead
Rob Davies 06/May/88 Lead
Andy Say 17/Oct/87 Solo
steve prior ?/May/87 Lead
with Paul L
John Marsland 08/Dec/84 Solo
malc 15/Jul/84 Lead
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/83 -
Hidden 07/Sep/80 2nd
Nigel Bond 30/Sep/79 Lead
with Dave Grey
uphillnow ??/1979 Lead

most recently 25/6/2015 as 2nd

Hidden 13/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 02/Oct/76 Lead
with Ian Grace
mikej 30/May/70 Solo
with Dave Williams, E
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 83
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set