Rockfax Description
The next continuous thin crack is a deceptive little trickster and the first decent runner is higher than you might wish for. © Rockfax

FA. Alan McHardy 1961

Ticklists: Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Tony Holdsworth 11/Oct 2nd rpt
with Andy Sloan
FlavioL1989 27/Sep Solo O/S
amccann 26/Sep Solo O/S
JamieSparkes 06/Sep Solo O/S

Awkward in the middle, fair at hvs.

with solo
NOG 29/Aug Lead O/S
pingora 08/Aug 2nd O/S
with Bev, Ian
Deezel65 06/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 06/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul 2nd O/S
toasted 30/May Lead
with Tim Larrad
paulwaterhouse 26/May TR
Hidden 23/May 2nd
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
gavinpeach 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Hellen
Tim Rodgers 18/Oct/14 Lead
with David Forster
Dan Hostford 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
greenclimb 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
TobyA 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Jody
benlatham07 14/Sep/14 TR O/S
tim.fairhall 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Eric+Kasia
Jake Young 03/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Dibdawg 18/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/14 Solo O/S
nick ferro 05/Jul/14 -
MPSBunny 22/Jun/14 2nd dog

Lacked both holds and gear in the first 5 or so meters leading to a very bold lead by Alex. I struggled at the start and had to rest on the rope 2 or 3 times as my hands just kept peeling off.

GermanAlex 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

not all that easy, and the gear in the lower reaches is poor

with BenJ
sam26051 16/Jun/14 Lead dog
AlexFletcher 16/Jun/14 2nd
Batt 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hoyes 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
gilmour_789 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with rmalone
Woodiee 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 12/Apr/14 2nd β
with Rosh
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
adamashcroft 31/Aug/13 2nd
Gareth Waite 22/Aug/13 2nd
Alex 74 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Laurie Holt, Gareth W
Laurie Holt 22/Aug/13 2nd
with Alex Thackway, Gareth Waite
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 -
Gudge 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Helen B
helin 05/Jul/13 Lead
with chris
migs493 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
joesmith 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with tony
treg 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Dan Osbaldeston
Dan818 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
DanOsb 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
chrisallan 19/May/13 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Allan
ianjfsutcliffe 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
nai 04/May/13 2nd
with Neil, Tom2t
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 04/May/13 2nd
RCrockford 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mike B
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard, Owen
martin one 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
aking12 13/Mar/13 -
ash longreach ?/Jan/13 2nd
with jim
JHiley 27/Oct/12 2nd

First VS i've failed to lead in a while, found it nails on second too.

atom 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with big Si
ashtond6 06/Oct/12 Lead

nails for VS 4c

Hidden 16/May/12 Solo O/S
sopaz 15/Apr/12 2nd
gregoritos 15/Apr/12 Solo O/S
RosieLynch ?/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
john lynch 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ant King
petekeron ?/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
big djw ??/2012 Lead
Rob84 ??/2012 2nd O/S
with Alex Messenger
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
lozowen 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sally Owen
nutty_didz 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Josh Dickerson
Josh Dickerson 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 10/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Mikael
Mikael 10/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
rich_hw 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
malc 15/Aug/11 2nd rpt
manwithacam 14/Aug/11 2nd


with Joris
petellis 13/Aug/11 2nd β
with Sloth
Joris.Roulleau 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
stuaart 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Neil led. Crux before you get to any pro. VS climbing but not a VS situation in my book.

with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
Hidden 15/Apr/11 2nd dog
ojp 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice start to the season

with Dave, Robin
Dave Foster 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Better and a bit harder than it looks.

with Si
climbing_rocks1983 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ruth, Petey
robin_hackney 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
shugsan 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

That first piece of gear felt a long way up.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S
butt_crack_123 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Pete, My Angel
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S
MorganPreece 26/Mar/11 Solo
thekendo 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
timofy 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S

roped solo

Andy Peak 1 14/Mar/11 2nd
with kenney
Chrisc4 23/Jan/11 2nd

backed off the start, no gear for a long way. a boulder mat would tame this interesting route

mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Pete Nugent 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf

backed off the start - no gear - HVS 4c?

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd
benjizac 12/Sep/10 TR
with Rory Juss
Climber1806 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
johnwilson123 ?/Sep/10 -
with paul
clive-greenwood 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
frankcp87 25/Jun/10 2nd
with Ian Holbrook
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
ben_250 20/Jun/10 -
with Dave, Andrew
ben_250 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave, Andrew
mills85 20/Jun/10 Lead dog

tough at the grade

with czech andrew, Ben Nolan
tradguy 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 31/May/10 2nd
The Bad Cough 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
Creep_pea 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Walsh
Si dH 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gary
jhardwick 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

sketchy pro at the start for a vs easy once the gear is in

with chris vernon
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead dog

First time on a rope after two or three months injured and it certainly showed.

AielSavage ??/2010 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Brown
ian d f 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Zak
melonmike 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Lole
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Solo O/S
AJ007 20/Sep/09 Solo
dan gibson 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with AJ, michael porter
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead
catblack 13/Sep/09 Lead RP

Found this very hard for VS. Gear is there (just), but took so long trying to find and place it I got v tired then paniced, grabbed a runner, and had to be lowered off! Had a rest, and then managed it in 1 go.

Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 -
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
jcurley 05/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Mark Cousen
Lisaaa 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Watson
Mattyk 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead dog
Kirill 12/Jul/09 2nd
babymoac 12/Jul/09 2nd
cem 12/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

hard uprotected moves on the lower setion on mostly rounded holds but uch easier above. Is HVS 5a in my new Stanage guide, top end VS bottom end HVS you decide...

with Greg Slee
Tadams 03/Jun/09 Lead
with Eddie Garside
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
morrisdaboss 18/Oct/08 Lead RP
with Handy Vicks
torialou 18/Oct/08 2nd
with Pete
Matt Smith 17/Oct/08 TR dnf
with Paddy Williams, John Tanner, Matt Lewin
mrstarwarsman 17/Oct/08 TR
Mrs Weasel 28/Sep/08 Lead

Protection very poor on the bottom half. Got in half a DMM nut. None of the resting spots were very restful either - so pleased with myself but not in a hurry to do again :-)

JiveWeasel 28/Sep/08 2nd
chrisbussell 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Debbie Porter
chrisbussell 28/Sep/08 Lead
with Debbie Porter
gravity 21/Sep/08 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
smudge 20/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Rob
Another James 28/Jul/08 Lead

Was going to back off until I spotted the good cam under the small roof to the right. Then took ages to get a nut in became pumped and fell off. Nice route but tough VS.

with Jamie T
Laurence Everitt 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
LankyPaddy 11/May/08 Lead O/S
SKippy5 11/May/08 2nd
jugglingeek 05/May/08 Lead dog

After debating the saftey of this route for some time. The only gear seamed to be and RP4 quite some distance from the next good placement. While getting to a stance to place the second piece I slipped and fell. The RP held and I got back on and finished up.

with will
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
dan gibson ??/2008 -
stuc ??/2008 Lead O/S
SamStrong 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Greg Kieckhefer
malc 07/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Paul and Andy
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Solo
dan gibson 16/Jun/07 -
twodada 10/Jun/07 Lead dnf

this was greasy, with no real protection on the lower 3rd. Discretion said back off. down climbed to do another day.

with Rich B and Kiwi Pete
BallsofBritishSteel 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/07 2nd
Stig 20/May/07 Lead rpt

took over the lead

with Maciek
Brown 01/May/07 Solo O/S
with John
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
nai ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Pete Horn ??/2007 2nd β
with The artist formerly known as Smokey Rob
Peakpdr ??/2007 -
with phill
jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
dan gibson 25/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Caralynh 13/Oct/06 2nd
with Gavin
Cameron13 13/Oct/06 Lead O/S
wahniel 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Stewart McConnell
catt 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Apparently HVS in the new BMC guide. Certainly felt like a sandbag at VS!

with Will
Wilbur 25/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Iain
Nicos 29/Apr/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 28/Apr/06 2nd
Stig 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Les
mahjongg 11/Mar/06 TR dog
with Col
al99 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
LoopyLou ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 16/Apr/05 2nd
with John Inkpen
Budge 20/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
cem 17/Apr/04 2nd
with Rod Strachan
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Solo
chris sm 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/03 2nd
Hidden 04/May/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/May/00 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
babymoac 21/Jun/98 2nd
with Ken Prandy
Hidden 14/Sep/97 Solo
buxtoncoffeelover 19/Jul/97 2nd
craig h 10/Aug/96 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead
cragspud ??/1995 Lead O/S
Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
uphillnow ?/May/93 Lead
steve prior ?/Dec/90 Lead
with Rob W
goi.ashmore 14/Jun/90 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/90 Solo
Rob Davies 06/May/88 2nd
Andy Say 17/Oct/87 Solo
malc 24/Jun/84 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/80 Solo
Nigel Bond 30/Sep/79 Lead
with Dave Grey
Hidden 13/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 02/Oct/76 Lead
with Ian Grace
Hidden 18/Apr/76 2nd
mikej 30/May/70 Solo
with Dave Williams, E
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, PebblePusher, Hidden, Valentino, SimonBrown
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 51
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set