10m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing up the centre of the buttress. The start is steep and strenuous, although on good holds. The upper section is delicate and poorly protected. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly late 1910s 1917

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.


ClimberDateStyle
James Oakes 13/Nov Solo O/S
tronardcohen 22/Oct 2nd
with bro
Hidden 22/Oct Lead O/S
RyanR 08/Oct 2nd O/S

This is good climbing however the grading is poor. There is literally no protection above midway so fall and you deck. The climbing is however easy.

Benni99 08/Oct Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 08/Oct Lead O/S
with David Ashmore
bryce.dorin 02/Oct Lead O/S
with Brett
Droyd 28/Sep Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 28/Sep 2nd
MrFantastic 25/Sep Solo O/S
JHiley 24/Sep Lead O/S
with Sarah
sdixon 24/Sep 2nd
Rory_Cummings_NI 11/Sep Solo O/S
tommccluskey 10/Sep Lead O/S
with michael
PeteWilson 01/Sep Solo O/S
with josh
neil.loydon 01/Sep 2nd
smoreda 30/Aug 2nd
LJJ77 29/Aug 2nd
with Jon
Chris Craggs 14/Aug Lead

Steep pull to get going. Unprotected upper half.

with Dave Vincent, Steve Cunnington
Alison Cairns 14/Aug Lead
TizzyA 14/Aug 2nd
with Alison
keitht 31/Jul Solo
richardt 31/Jul Lead O/S
with Harriett Richardson
Hidden 30/Jul 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 30/Jul Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 22/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul 2nd
Dave Garnett 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Adam Garnett
tim.fairhall 04/Jul Solo rpt
ebf 03/Jul Lead O/S

Burly (for HS) moves to 10-12 foot (last decent gear in the final break of this section) then very very run out (i.e. no gear at all, unless you take a side runner in the crack, which I didn't) to the top. Lovely, but don't slip.

lizzie789 03/Jul 2nd O/S
with Jonathon
pastep 03/Jul 2nd
with ebf
Stroppy 05/Jun Solo O/S
john max 04/Jun Lead
with Mick Sissons
cathymiller 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Olly
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd
OllyDewhirst 04/Jun 2nd
with Cathy
TacticalKnee 30/May Lead
mark44 28/May Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 17/May TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 15/May 2nd
FlavioL1989 07/May Solo O/S
PanzerHanzler 07/May Solo rpt
Gabe Oliver 23/Apr Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Apr 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 10/Apr 2nd
with Beth
stacey73 03/Apr 2nd
with OLLIE, Emma
HB1 31/Mar 2nd
with Brid
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
Brannock 20/Mar Solo
Archbishop 13/Mar Lead
with Dan Shacklock
vinnie ??/2016 -
Hidden 20/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 20/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Neil M
lukepearce 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Big D
davidbird63 11/Oct/15 Lead
DanChad 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 04/Oct/15 Lead

Easy climbing.

Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
mark schramm 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with emma, Chris E
Chris Ebbutt 03/Oct/15 Lead

Placed no gear.

with Emma, Mark
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd
hazeysunshine 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Helen D
andybirtwistle 19/Sep/15 Lead
with Roger Grimshaw
pawel suhy 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
samkat 19/Sep/15 Lead
with NinaR
sian88 19/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/15 2nd O/S
dr_botnik 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Put a small cam in the upper section and it just pulled out, replaced it as protection for my nerves more than ought else...

amccann 07/Sep/15 Solo O/S
with bstoker95, Pete B
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead dnf
MikeLell 22/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt
HB1 07/Aug/15 Lead
with Brid
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Georgie25 02/Aug/15 Lead
will_benfold 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
magiiique 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Will
Matt Harmon 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

with side runner otherwise no gear, nice climbing

Sarah Roscoe 23/Jul/15 2nd
chisanga 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Jim Reid, Stephen Lumb
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Solo O/S
jasonpm 27/Jun/15 Lead
PanzerHanzler 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Jason M
tom bre 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Lizzie, Paul Deane
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Lukem6 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
bobstones 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Good route, I didn't find an abundance of gear on the whole route!

markK6 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Simon
irishguyinlondon 30/May/15 Lead O/S

faffed with gear a little but the route is forgiving

with Neil Campbell
Hidden 26/May/15 Solo O/S
paulwaterhouse 26/May/15 Lead
j616s 25/May/15 2nd O/S
pingora 23/May/15 2nd O/S
with Bev, Ian
K Farrell 16/May/15 2nd O/S

Not much gear unless you go for side runners in the big cracks? Not sure why this gets HS and Feathered Friends gets VS?

Michael Bortoluzzi 16/May/15 2nd O/S
with Geoff Hannis (WCC)
andysroom 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
stev1e.wilso 10/May/15 2nd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd
clams ?/May/15 Lead

Side runner

with Catherine, Toby
CatMc ?/May/15 2nd
with Toby, clams
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/15 Lead
Manc88 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

First climb on grit; clean and simple once I learned to trust my feet!

Hidden 18/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/15 Solo
with Ella, Jago
Jago Musgrove 06/Apr/15 2nd
with Ella, Dad
peppermill 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Sam McCarthy 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
DeanD ??/2015 Lead
DeanD ??/2015 Lead
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Retro Rowan 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
spenser 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Felt harder than expected, probably indicating that I need to climb more!

Gabe Oliver 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
knighty 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Nice moves at the top section.

with Alex Hunt
SuperLee1985 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

This route felt very contrived and i didn't like it. I constantly felt like I was off route when i just seemed to be following the line that felt natural. I dont like climbig like that.

StevieLee 11/Oct/14 2nd
mikespooner 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead
DaveB61 28/Sep/14 Lead
MikeDowsett 28/Sep/14 2nd
vigroovian 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Found it difficult to differentiate between this and Spring Sunshine to the right - so ended up doing a mix of both i think. I also put runners out to October crack as pretty polished and delicate above halfway as no other gear placements (with what i had were possible to till the top.

ryan_d 27/Sep/14 2nd β
with Will Weir
pog100 21/Sep/14 Lead
with fat boys
SophGreen 20/Sep/14 TR O/S
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo rpt

100 IAD No. 16

daveagriff 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Hossack, Steve Hill
keith leonard 09/Sep/14 Solo
Hidden 09/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd
Rockafella 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Jenny Clarke ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with alan
TacticalKnee 21/Aug/14 Lead
Alex 74 18/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Dave m
gpcomps 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Hope, Matt Brooks
onlyfoddington 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The run out finish in a buffeting wind caused me to ponder.

with Michael
67hours 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good holds but a powerful start if you lead Severe. Then no more gear for the rest of the route. Nice climb, good fun for the head!

with Erinna
pearson9596 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Lizzie Culwick, Dave Brock
Simon Knaggs 09/Aug/14 TR O/S
Phil_Hall_97 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd
LoshkaK 07/Aug/14 2nd
Jake Young 03/Aug/14 Solo O/S
ichowie 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
staceyjg 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
minaturechris 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stacey
Jim Malo 13/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Tim
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
migs493 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
MPSBunny 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
GermanAlex 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

might have been on the wrong route, but S? relatively bold and not all that easy, solid HS I think.

with BenJ
OliverRoss 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Adam Ptretlak
ben.phillips 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Done as part of the 100 stanage stars ticklist. 43 routes in 15 hours. Absolutely exhausting, far too hot, and midge hell, but what an achievement! We had great fun. Well done Ben and thanks!

with Ben Philips
scalpel 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
WhipperSnapper 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
john. e.r 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with rx
climbingfoetus 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
timreynolds 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Phill Blight
Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd
robblowen 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 08/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
puppythedog 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing, definately an Eliminate, Frist time I meant to climb this I actually climbed Spring Sunshine. Interesting start for a Severe so earns it's 4b for me.

with Matt
theomoore 26/May/14 Solo β
Roisin 26/May/14 Lead O/S
freemanTom 17/May/14 Lead
with Richard Henton
jonhowson 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Really great climbing throughout. Satisfying start move and onto some run out slab climbing, felt daring for HS but not difficult at all.

with Chris
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
Trobbo 05/May/14 2nd
with Matt Reed
batterj2 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Joe Farnell
BruceW 04/May/14 Lead rpt

First moves quite bouldery

with Becca
timbanton 03/May/14 Solo
Hidden 26/Apr/14 Solo O/S
SJEdmondson 25/Apr/14 2nd
with Mike Smith
GregM1 23/Apr/14 TR O/S

HS 4a

Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Chris Plant 21/Apr/14 2nd
joemallia 19/Apr/14 Lead
migs493 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Woodiee 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Theodorus2 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
wnlwy 18/Apr/14 Lead
DavidPC 13/Apr/14 Solo O/S
jwhereat 13/Apr/14 Lead
jogh 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Flic
TimG 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Jack
ssnow157 12/Mar/14 2nd
with Tim, Jack
Jack Whiteley 12/Mar/14 2nd
SteveHi 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
HB1 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Brid
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
pete_naylor 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James
Sean Kelly 05/Oct/13 -
with Colin Maddison
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/13 Solo
with Mal Scott
buxtoncoffeelover 30/Sep/13 Lead
with Vicar
Hidden 30/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 25/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Ferdia
harold walmsley 08/Sep/13 Solo O/S
madasten 08/Sep/13 2nd
with Nicola, Gaz
gazfellows 08/Sep/13 Lead
with Billy nic, steff
Gareth Waite 21/Aug/13 TR
Alex 74 21/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd dog
aking12 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
RosieLynch 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
rockman 18/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Really good climb but thought well harder than severe. Top slab is ground fall territory.

timcedwards 18/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Solo
lithos 10/Jul/13 Solo

v. high first gear - harsh at S

Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mike_w18 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Will
DinoGator 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tom GP
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Theeni 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joseph
jrccrosby 29/Jun/13 2nd
Marmoset 16/Jun/13 2nd RP
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
David Walker 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
dpiddock 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Humphries
Nick Sillem 07/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
boulderholder 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
stevelismore 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 26/May/13 -
The Norris 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Gem
Fatt Matt 25/May/13 2nd
with Rob Gamm
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
ClimberJimmyB 25/May/13 2nd
sparkass 19/May/13 Solo O/S
JonathanJones 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Liam
LiamAD 06/May/13 2nd
eel 05/May/13 Solo O/S
OliverRoss 05/May/13 2nd β

No protection, and just isn't worth it.

Voltemands 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Severe? No. VS? No. HS, most likely. Good climbing if a little run out.

with Amy Till, Carlene HIll
Hidden 05/Mar/13 Solo O/S
climbingsheep 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/13 2nd
adie84 ??/2013 -
Paul Hy 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Michael-H 10/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/12 TR O/S
darrencabowabo 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Marmoset 06/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
ashtond6 06/Oct/12 Lead

VS due to protection

southern_smit ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S

hard start and unprotected finish great little route

Chris wilson 23/Sep/12 2nd
with Deacon
deacondeacon 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 13/Sep/12 Solo O/S
neilwiltshire 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
yomteoman 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

visualised the nerves beforehand, felt really comfortable on the rock. nice climb.

with lucy martinez, Rob Hurrell
Hidden 02/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 31/Aug/12 Lead
with stringy, esther, hannah, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 28/Aug/12 -
rfdl100 21/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Simon Waters
hotfeet 12/Aug/12 2nd
with Fraser Campbell, Mark MacDonald
Pero 12/Aug/12 Lead
Blue68 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Fraser Campbell, Alan Mountford
Griff1990 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with JT
gingermike1 28/Jul/12 Lead
BLodge 25/Jul/12 2nd
Gary A S 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Clio
Clee 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Gary
Chris Craggs 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Steve Cunnington, Dave Gregory
patsaunders ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/12 Lead
Bernie Wylde 06/Jun/12 2nd
with sp
Steve J P 06/Jun/12 Lead

HS for me due to long run out

with BW
Jenny Clarke ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with dave
seanlikeskites 27/May/12 Lead O/S
jockpat 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 23/May/12 Lead O/S
ju59 20/May/12 2nd

Seconded David

Hidden 06/May/12 2nd
Neil Henson 06/May/12 2nd
with Graham Robinson
NickTay 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Last gear well below half height, bailed off to the right. Need to get head straight before I try this one again.

with Chris C
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
Climbster 15/Apr/12 Solo
with Leslie
Rob84 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Si Ashmore
fk2005 01/Apr/12 2nd β
with Richard Apps
sting 24/Mar/12 -
with kwaidy
natalio 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Murilo
kwaidy 24/Mar/12 Solo
with sting
Murilo Lessa 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Natalio
wilkie14c 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Clarke
kfowler141 22/Mar/12 Lead
Alkis 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Quite nice! Cannot possible be a severe with that runout, HS I'd say.

Hidden 11/Mar/12 Solo RP
chrisclimber_1986 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with alkis
ste_d 29/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
cleft88 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Joe O'Hare
joe.ohare 20/Nov/11 Lead
Nigel Bond 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Tanya Savage 15/Oct/11 2nd

a diff in Beardy's book! Horrible start and no pro above.

Neil Pacey 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
RichardMc 09/Oct/11 Lead
with Ian Gunn
Adderbury Climber 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Richard
Becky E 02/Oct/11 2nd rpt
Chris Craggs 27/Sep/11 2nd

A steep start on flat holds. The upper half has no gear.

with Steve Cunnington
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 06/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Keeley Scholes
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
gavster2405 ?/Aug/11 Lead
with jane phillips
drysori 10/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
treg 03/Jul/11 2nd

The steep start section with pumpy positions for placing, and the run out at the top mean I'm voting HS.

with The Clevenger
fatbuoybazza 24/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Ly-Cilph 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Eric O (PCC)
thomasadixon 14/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Andy Hardy 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 31/May/11 2nd rpt
pie_eater_pete 31/May/11 Solo O/S
stratandrew 29/May/11 Lead O/S

felt harder than this. the slab at the top is a little bold.

with Jim Symon
Graeme Hammond 08/May/11 Solo rpt

S 4b on here?? clearly harder

Hidden 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Mike Soulby 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

gets HS 4b in eastern grit. its definately HS in my book, some hard climbing even before the first bit of gear then a huge run out before the next bit. good fun though once i got my head in gear

with Tom1
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tjsx101 25/Apr/11 2nd
Phil West 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Chris Tan
dbarmbs 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

1 piece of protection

with Duncan Beard
Duncan Beard 17/Apr/11 2nd

Glad I didn't lead this one. Tough start, 4c or more, then only 1 gear placement at half height. This must surely be VS.

GrahamHP 10/Apr/11 TR
with Richard Rampling, Gavin Phillips, Richard Apthorp
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gavster2405 10/Apr/11 2nd
pldarch 09/Apr/11 Lead
with James Beattie
jmr 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Paul Greenhow
iamstebarker 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S
riddle 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 2nd
Freddie 1 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Andyh83
sian88 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
haylow 19/Mar/11 2nd
daviesp2 19/Mar/11 Lead
RalphC 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Helen, Ali
barrowclough 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/11 Solo
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Leclev ??/2011 Lead
john lynch 14/Nov/10 Solo
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Solo
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Andy Peak 1 17/Oct/10 Lead
with H washbrook
trish1968 16/Oct/10 TR
with Nick Bennett, MrA
Hidden 16/Oct/10 TR
SteveM 02/Oct/10 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with SteveM
paul birch 26/Sep/10 -

i've done less worrying very severes.

Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Mr Sparkle 14/Sep/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead
benjizac 12/Sep/10 2nd
with Rory Juss
Hjort 04/Sep/10 Solo O/S
johniebriggs ?/Sep/10 Lead
Slick 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
BennoC 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

This would be hard at HS, decking is a real possibility from the top half of the route.

with Paul Justin, Dan Lane
Dan Lane 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Made it harder for myself by being very eliminate.

with Paul Justin, Ben Callard
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
RalphC 15/Aug/10 Lead

Absolute sandbag at Severe. The climbing is about right at the grade, but the run out in the top section is more than enough for HS in my book.

with Caroline
john_ni 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dominic Siedlecki
Adam1973 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
garywong 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rob Cavill
David Wynne 31/Jul/10 Lead
barrylong 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

There's no way this is only severe!

with Andy PCC
Jim Slater 08/Jul/10 Solo rpt
Podling 08/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead
graphiclunarkid 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

The first half of this is superb :o) Severe is fair IMO however the sparse gear puts it high in the grade.

with Kiri, arctic jen
arctic_jen 06/Jul/10 2nd
with Rich
Alpandy 03/Jul/10 2nd
with Steve and Kat
kitkat78 03/Jul/10 Lead
SteveM 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Pilch 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

only found 1 runner

with Graham, Ed
rockman 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
timcedwards 24/Jun/10 2nd
ben_250 20/Jun/10 -
with Dave, Andrew
ben_250 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave
mills85 20/Jun/10 2nd
with czech andrew, Ben Nolan
HimTiggins 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Kim
ajc 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
christensena 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Only got one piece of gear in at 1/3 of way up (no 2 camalot). Take small cams (e.g. 0.3) if you want more gear in than that!

with Rahul
krikoman 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Similar in style to Black Slab ( Hargrieves Orig) great climbing but short on gear. 8/10

with Mark Bathe
nick ferro 05/Jun/10 -
Piers Harley 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Jeremy Windsor
Goody 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Petra Guy
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
shkinitrep 31/May/10 2nd
tradguy 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 31/May/10 Lead
tompilgrem 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Very run out on top moves, would deck out but crux is first few moves.

with Dad
Jim Malo 18/May/10 TR
APuddy 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Jon Pilling 13/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Bowker
disturbed_one51 24/Apr/10 Solo
Jonathan Hall 24/Apr/10 Solo
Owen W-G 24/Apr/10 Solo O/S
with Gav & Si
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR
climbinmunkey 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Saw a lot of people back off this due to the hard moves before the first gear placement. No gear at the top unless you step right and put a side runner in Kelly's Crack. Maybe deserves a VS.

with Helen
jamessandels 13/Apr/10 Lead
with Mykl White
andyebbens 21/Mar/10 2nd
with Paul
Steven Andrews 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Christine
Hidden 11/Mar/10 2nd
Ron ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2010 -
JDDD 13/Dec/09 Lead

A wonderful climb sure to put fear into any aspiring Severe leader. Defo in the HS - VS range.

victim of mathematics 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Definitely deserves HS, probably both for the start being steep and the finish being bold. A great route though.

with Jaime
Adam1973 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mark G
peter myers ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Rebecca Coles
syv_k 27/Sep/09 TR dnf

First day outside. Couldn't get more than a few feet up this one, so harder than October Slab for me.

sarahlizzy 27/Sep/09 TR
with Syv
adi bryant 24/Sep/09 Lead
with Austyn
GrahamHP 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Sustained start and a top half with no gear placements, big time head trip.

Steve Pardoe 20/Sep/09 2nd

Excellent climbing in perfect conditions; the upper section is pretty run-out.

Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
mike bridges 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead
Jules Lane 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, but no gear at all (although I had no cams)

with Ben, Ben
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Ben_Bullbridge 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Milne
Milne 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with cooper
davross1986 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

gets easier as you go higher but also gets less well protected. you are probably better off just going for it rather than wasting time and energy looking for protection as there really isnt any. you can get a cam in about 3-4m up and thats about it.

DeanD ?/Sep/09 2nd
stimpey 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tom
Timpy1584 16/Aug/09 2nd
with Steve
aldred 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Michelle Piper 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
andrew549 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Becky E 08/Aug/09 2nd
smudge 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Den Onac
danleyden 02/Aug/09 2nd
Mattyk 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
remus 31/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
erica 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with John
John Brayshaw 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Erica
Ben1983 04/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead
Blackgoby 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
phja 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with darren
Poco Loco 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
bobbarnes00 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Shad ?/Jun/09 2nd
vard 28/May/09 Lead O/S
Tom V 28/May/09 2nd
with ed staton
Strong Steve 25/May/09 Solo O/S
teflonpete 25/Apr/09 2nd β
with Nikki
kleinej 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Robert
rd20 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jason
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
9fingerjon 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Very bold

with Matt G
bullethead 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Ava Adore,The Accused
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Bex_M 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Ewan Buckingham
stuckonarock 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Phil M
boulderholder 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

nice climb but may as well solo as such poor gear. Topped out slightly to the right as had the FEAR making the last move.

with Helen R
Alfredo 19/Mar/09 Solo
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Si dH 17/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Neil and Paul
Hidden 17/Jan/09 Lead rpt
RM199 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Graeme Hammond 23/Dec/08 Lead O/S

also led: 02/Oct/11 with Claire Hammond, Pete Weal & Becky E

with Phil Johnson
al99 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Peeley.b 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Aidan Bennett
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Rachel S 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Little Si
Sam W 12/Oct/08 Lead

Not really sure where this goes exactly, different line shown in different guidebooks. Gear pretty rubbish

with Nina Jenkinson
TiffTiff 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Richard B
Tez29 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mousey
Alfredo ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Jen and Kate
b.hayley ?/Sep/08 Lead
Scott McRae 30/Aug/08 2nd rpt
fatbuoybazza 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with daveyw
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead
PanzerHanzler 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brown 15/Aug/08 Solo O/S
lithos 10/Aug/08 Solo
Shauna 12/Jul/08 Lead
with Iain
catt 12/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Nice little climb, very reasonable if a bit run out up top. Very eliminate in nature, the natural line lands you at the top of the crack.

with Shauna
sopaz 13/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
wingalina 11/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Robert Turnbull
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
SimonBrown 08/Jun/08 2nd
with Mark Pilling
tractorbachcoch 07/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Andy, Peter
chadrads 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with andy chapman
Hidden 02/Jun/08 2nd
sweetymonster ?/Jun/08 Lead
with barrie
1918hasti 23/May/08 2nd
with Paul Bradwell
James B 11/May/08 Lead
with Phil
LankyPaddy 11/May/08 Lead O/S
SKippy5 11/May/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
alaan 19/Apr/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/08 2nd
plastikman 19/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tanya
babymoac 03/Apr/08 2nd
with Pete C
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
James Oswald ??/2008 Lead O/S

Good!

dan gibson ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Andysomething 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Bruce Perry
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
pog100 14/Oct/07 2nd
Reaver2k 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Spent a while contemplating this climb because by now the drizzle was getting quite heavy and everything was getting sogged. I am also not very prone to run out slabs and generally scare myself shitless on them. Decided it would be a character building climb though doing a precarious slab in wet weather. First moves were quite tough for 4b I thought never might 4a but I think I wandered abit too far right. Placed several small cams (0.5, 1, and 1.5 I think... shows how scared of slabs I am) to try and make a safety net, as I could see everything was getting very soaked now! Was in a strenous position, pulled up, a little too far to the right I think (maybe doing the VS?) then moved out left again to avoid myself retreating to safety of the crack on the right. Realised this was probably a bad idea as all the holds were wet. Spent my time slowly creeping up the crack, patting my chalk ball (bad practice, I'm sorry) to try and dry out the soaking holds, didn't really work but I worked my way up anyway. Final stretch was very scary for me reaching up for a dripping big ledge. Wacked in a piece of gear out of priciple on the left (ill fitting, probably would have fallen out in the event of a fall) and moved up over the top to the thank god lip of the top. Can't see how this is severe on UKC but I guess when its try it might be a different story! Dad followed and basicly thought the same as me, i.e. conclusion, a very wet HS indeed...

rich_greeny 13/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Ben Hanson
benjhans 13/Oct/07 TR O/S

Wet, Top ropes for Freshers trip

with Rich G
malc 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Paul and Andy
Graham T 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Annelise
lazybones 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Wright
frankcp87 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

would have been more fun if the wind wasn't howling!

williap 02/Sep/07 2nd
with FCP
tiga271 ?/Sep/07 Lead
with mark,dave,mathew
DannyK 31/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Solo
howlingbaboon 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Theeni 11/Aug/07 2nd
with Matt Dalby
Darrell Read 02/Aug/07 Lead
with Henry Olver, Simon Hall
Hidden 02/Aug/07 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Jo Bowen
Hidden 28/Jun/07 TR
Allan Watson 17/Jun/07 2nd
with Ian Atkins
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Solo O/S
max_chan 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 06/Jun/07 2nd
Katya 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Poorly protected climb, although you can put the first gear just above reach level. Pretty steep - felt a bit shakey! A character-building climb :)

with Denise
Jonny M 19/May/07 2nd O/S
with Phil Toovey
kermit_uk 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
oliverthomp 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Phil Latham 28/Apr/07 Lead

Uni climbing practical

Hidden 21/Apr/07 Solo rpt
AJ007 21/Apr/07 Solo
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Solo rpt
with AJ
Jim Vach 11/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Whealiebob 07/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Chris
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden ?/Mar/07 2nd
clive-greenwood 03/Feb/07 Solo
Hidden 14/Jan/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisallan ??/2007 Lead O/S
andybeanland 14/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Marcus
MeMeMe 23/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall 06/Aug/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/06 -
andi_e 15/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/06 2nd O/S
gibbo38 01/Jul/06 Lead
with Robert
just wanna climb 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Sketchy start, felt more than Severe, worthwhile. I remember a single 2.5 Friend at half hight and that's about it!

with Colin
colin milton 28/Jun/06 2nd
with just wanna climb
PenJD 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Solo
Rampikino 28/May/06 Lead
with MMC Various
Hidden 09/May/06 -
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
stevo smith 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Chris scott
2shortplanks 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Mike H 22/Apr/06 2nd
with Roy Broadbridge
WRMusall 04/Mar/06 2nd dog

First Grit of the year

with Gary B.
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
loonyclimber ??/2006 -
loonyclimber ??/2006 -
Sidekick ??/2006 Lead O/S
Nige G 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Jerry
Hidden 09/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/05 2nd
Dave Mahon 12/Jun/05 Lead

bold top part

with Mark Moody
timharrison ?/Jun/05 2nd
with Abi Marchent
timharrison ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Abi Marchent
Hidden 29/May/05 TR O/S
Mark Riley ?/May/05 Solo O/S
baldcoder 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Solo
Budge 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 19/Mar/05 2nd
Nicos 18/Mar/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 11/Feb/05 Lead
MazElden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 14/Nov/04 Solo
darren1 26/Sep/04 -
with Janna Miller
Tim W 26/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/04 TR
adam carless ??/2004 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/03 Solo
Neil Curtis 02/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Steve Bower
Simon Caldwell 27/Jul/03 TR O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Pelleas ?/Jul/03 2nd
with Martin
Outdoorfun37 29/Jun/03 2nd
Marq 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Monk 26/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/03 Lead
Bob M 30/Mar/03 Lead
Norman_P_W 30/Mar/03 2nd
with Bob M
Sankey 15/Mar/03 2nd

Sandbag at Diff in On Peak Rock!

with Andy E + Tom
Russell Flynn 19/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with SPA Guy
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Reds 01/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Ralph
Hidden 04/May/02 Solo rpt
sammoore 07/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Newbury College
DerwentDiluted 23/Mar/02 Solo
Phil West 22/Sep/01 Lead rpt
with David Atherton
babymoac 26/Aug/01 -
with Manda & Jules
rocktigger ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 19/Mar/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
tlr ??/2000 Solo
John Marsland 13/Jun/99 Solo
martroberts 03/Apr/99 Lead O/S
chris sm 27/Aug/98 Solo O/S
Phil West 30/May/98 Solo O/S
Ropeboy 07/Feb/98 Lead
Hidden 30/Nov/97 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Martin Senior
iskra2000 12/Oct/96 Solo

Big boots.

craig h 10/Aug/96 Solo O/S
Scott McRae 27/Jul/96 Solo O/S
cragspud ?/Sep/95 Lead
Phil1967 10/Jul/95 Lead
with John Witham
atom 21/Jun/95 2nd
with Sheila Ellison
Chris Ellis 25/May/95 Solo
rurp ??/1995 -
Laramadness 16/Jul/94 Solo
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
tompercy ??/1994 Solo
Martin Bennett 17/Oct/93 Solo
leathers 24/May/92 2nd O/S
with Charlotte Evans
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/92 Solo
Hidden 23/Aug/91 Solo O/S
Roget 02/Aug/91 Solo O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
John Marsland 27/May/89 Solo
Backinthegame ?/May/89 Solo
goi.ashmore 29/Oct/88 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/May/88 Solo
Andy Say 07/Mar/88 Solo
mark-abz 31/May/87 Solo
Hidden ??/1986 -
Iain Thow 22/Sep/85 Solo

Brilliant route! Done in trainers.

sadams 18/Feb/84 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
tapley 08/Jul/83 Solo
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 08/May/78 Solo
Mark Kemball 28/Aug/77 Solo
mikej 01/Apr/73 Solo
with Geoff Williams
Hidden ??/1970 Lead
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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 139
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 116
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set