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The Marmoset* HS 4c

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[Powering through the crux of The Marmoset., 2 kb]8m. Climb strenuously through the centre of the roof of the cave using the jammed blocks gently. Easy climbing follows. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: Powering through the crux of The Marmoset. © David Walker
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 314 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Retro Rowan - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Clemmo - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/14

jwhereat - Lead - 13/Apr/14

Ben_Megson - 2nd - 10/Apr/14

Markheighton - Lead - 27/Mar/14

Jack Whiteley - Lead RP - 12/Mar/14 with Sarah, Tim George

TimG - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Jack

pete_naylor - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with James

jogh - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Pete

Didn't see a huge jug just after the roof until a stone monkey pointed it out.
Clemmo - Lead dog - 23/Nov/13

Tight rope- real struggle!!
buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 30/Sep/13

Failed on this years ago. Yes, it's only about 2 moves of each hand & a big pull, but what a buzz!
JohnHutch - Lead - 30/Sep/13 with Nik H

darlolad - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/13

cjb1992 - Lead - 27/Sep/13 with Harriet, June

harold walmsley - Solo rpt - 08/Sep/13

The Patriot - Lead - 06/Aug/13 with Geoff Mee

This is a boulder problem not a route
jamie ward - 2nd dnf - 02/Aug/13 with Steve Smith

simon mitchie - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13

richardhopton - Lead - 23/Jul/13 with Matt Thombs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13

dpiddock - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Jonathan

whiting.jp - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with dpiddock

boulderholder - Lead β - 02/Jun/13

this route must just fit me, everyone else seems to find it unreasonably hard for the grade.
adam carless - Solo rpt - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Marcin78 - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13 with Andy

oodie72 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Alex Pond

martin one - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Nick

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

slacky - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Mark

hard to get of floor
paul horabin - Lead - 29/Sep/12

Chris wilson - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Deacon

Rockfax Top 500? Ridiculous. A V0 boulder problem on loose holds. Then walk up a grassy gully.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/12

ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Charlie Burbridge

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Sep/12

Brilliant one move wonder - very bouldery...loads of fun!
rockmaverick - 2nd - Sep/12 with Ian Ackerley

Hidden - 28/Aug/12

Griff1990 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with JT

I think this route would be better graded as a boulder problem, once over the roof the route becomes around VDiff.
JamieTown - Solo - 11/Aug/12

patsaunders - Lead O/S - Jul/12

The loose block is terrifying. Other then that it's a pretty nice route.
seanlikeskites - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Jack Pattinson

jockpat - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Sean Enderby

MartinWilliams87 - Sent O/S - 20/May/12 with Richard Williams

MoWalker3 - 06/May/12

Neil Henson - 2nd dog - 06/May/12 with Graham Robinson

Palmer - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Nice move. Not sure how to classify the style. Got to the break to do the rockover, it was greasy, down-climbed to the ground, chalked up and did it.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Chris Aslin

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Mar/12

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with alkis

petekeron - Solo O/S - Mar/12 with Solo

Hidden - Lead - 2012

cleft88 - Lead - 20/Nov/11 with Ozzy

ebastock - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with John Beddard

lozowen - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Sally Owen

Sam Ash - Lead β - 22/Oct/11

mattorford - Solo - 22/Oct/11

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

AielSavage - Solo O/S - 22/Oct/11

Slipped off a couple of times until I worked out what to do with my feet.
tsjx - Lead RP - 15/Oct/11

Josh Dickerson - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with nutty_didz

JLS - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/11 with Jacqui

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/11 with Pete Weal

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/11 with Keeley Scholes

nai - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/11

Budge - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11

It's all about the first move, but what a first move. Dyno to the top of the first block, high foot, rockover, lock off and then up to the next super-positive block. Awesome. HS is definitely fair given the solid protection you can place before making the move.
treg - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with The Clevenger

btc - Lead dnf - 02/Jul/11 with Susannah Ellis

max_chan - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Richard PCC

hard move, getting out the cave, bonkers really, the only time I've ever cut lose on a route Nice jugs though!
Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11

thomasadixon - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/11

V0
999thAndy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Fidel Sciamanna

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 08/May/11

rich_hw - Lead RP - 03/May/11 with Graeme Hammond

in trainers but seriously ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, this surly is a joke!!
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 03/May/11 with Richard

Roget - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with jim

boulder problem not a route.
JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Nick

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Jamie

nath_casper - Lead RP - 25/Apr/11 with Lisa

JonF - TR - 25/Apr/11

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 17/Apr/11

Fran S8 - Solo - 17/Apr/11

Revenge finally gained
mattgrange - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Couple of goes before committing to the wobbler!
Homebrew165 - Lead dog - 09/Apr/11 with Ali

samsimpson - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/11

Wil.Hooke - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Olly

riddle - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Mar/11

One move...but what a move! :)
Andyh83 - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Matt

Freddie 1 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Andyh83

RalphC - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with Helen, Ali

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

David Smith - 2011

ash longreach - Lead - 2011

john lynch - Solo - 14/Nov/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/10

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 17/Oct/10 with H washbrook

johniebriggs - 2nd - Oct/10 with barnes junior

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Sep/10

Loved this one as I usually don't even attempt roof climbs due to being weak and rubbish. Took me a few attempts to be able to commit & grab the loose block (would of been nice to know it was wobbly before I had both hands on it). It's harder then 4c. Even felt tough for 5a as the guidebook says.
charley - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Kev

The start was hard as nails but brilliant...
Tithe Technique - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Charley Fell

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 20/Sep/10

Hidden - Solo - 12/Sep/10

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with carl manley

lovin the bouldering move at the start, makes the route!
ezclimber - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with jon gill

thecurlyone - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Sonia, Mark

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ben Ram

migs493 - 2nd β - 10/Jul/10 with Dan

Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Mike Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

Graeme Hammond - Solo rpt - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - Solo - 08/Jul/10

samsimpson - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/10

SteveM - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/10

harder than i expected
Pilch - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo - 15/Jun/10

lucasp - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Cath Lmc

A two move wonder and I couldn't get the second move to the loose block. Cheated and started up Bent Crack / New Years Eve, then traversed across.
krikoman - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with Mark Bathe

nick ferro - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/10

LukeP LCC - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with shkinitrep

shkinitrep - 2nd - 31/May/10 with luke preston

tradguy - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - 2nd - 31/May/10 with paul highams

strenuous but bomber gear-could not reach the final good hold- more like VS 5a ?
bobpilgrem - Lead dnf - 22/May/10 with Bob/Tom

Mcleodd - Lead O/S - May/10

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 24/Apr/10

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/10

whiting.jp - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with jamesca

The Bad Cough - Solo rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Christian Minett

Andy Fielding - Lead - 11/Apr/10 with Dave Sadler

Ron - 2010

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2010

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 13/Dec/09

Dampness and a lack of strength/oomph meant I didn't really get very far with this. One for another day...
victim of mathematics - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/09 with Jaime

shed_hed - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Jake Harrison

Stuart Wildman - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Andy Potter

goddamm7 - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with Sandrex

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Sep/09

Great fun. Couple of rests. 5a at least. Wobbly block a bit disconcerting.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead dog - 12/Sep/09 with Jurgen

popebenedictus - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Edd Rab

edd rab - 2nd RP - 29/Aug/09 with Ben Harding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09

markytaylor - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Kind man let us follow up on his rope
birthers - TR - 16/Aug/09

SP top-rope, TB top-rope
SiyP - TR O/S - 16/Aug/09 with TB

aldred - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Wolfgang

smudge - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/09

Considering all the other routes on this section seemed a soft touch for the grade this one was bloody hard. Until trying this route I would have said I was a confident 5a climber..... not now!
minaturechris - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/09

Mattyk - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Jamie Moss

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/09

Ben1983 - Solo O/S - 04/Jul/09

Poco Loco - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Bob Barnes

bobbarnes00 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with James Pomeroy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

fatbuoybazza - 2nd dnf - 14/Jun/09 with phil

Loved it. Fantastic first move over the roof.
Philsy - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with Baz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09

keithie - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Lloyd

Shad - Lead - Jun/09

vard - Lead O/S - 28/May/09 with tom valentine

Used a nut on a sling to protect difficult move. Must do in better style next ti,me.
dashitboarder - Lead - 24/May/09 with Dad

Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Dan

The Bad Cough - Solo O/S - 24/May/09 with Tom Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

daveclarke5 - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/09 with John

Did not finish? Did not start!
teflonpete - 2nd dnf - 25/Apr/09 with Nikki

garywong - Solo β - 25/Apr/09

Nicola - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Pete

over a roof !!!(but then thats it really)
epic ed - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Dan

James_D - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Ed

Hidden - Solo rpt - 17/Jan/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

clean after a rest, the pull is not 4c, 5a in eastern grit, and felt harder.
Milne - 2nd dog - 28/Dec/08 with Steve poole

BigToe - Lead - 28/Dec/08 with Milne

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Oct/08

TiffTiff - Solo β - 18/Oct/08

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

Daniel Bergo - Solo - 21/Sep/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Sep/08

The first move is as hard as the Flange which is HVS 5b!
Scott McRae - 2nd RP - 30/Aug/08 with Wavey Davey

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/08

could not pull up, arms couldn't be arsed..
fatbuoybazza - 2nd dnf - 30/Aug/08 with daveyw

dashitboarder - Solo dnf - 25/Aug/08 with Dad

sasmojo - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/08

Why, why can't I do roofs / overhangs!
PanzerHanzler - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/08 with Mike Bayley

Brown - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/08

big monkey fun
lithos - Solo - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/08

pabbage - Lead - Jul/08

barney@helmshore - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with simon

Enjoyable climb. Not overly committing, but enough to make it very worthwhile.
wanderso - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Graeme Shaw

tomboyle - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/08 with sarah finney

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

One move wonder! Big pull up over lip then easy easy climbing!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Graeme Hammond - Lead RP - 13/Oct/07

One move wonder!
Twisty - 2nd - 13/Oct/07 with Graeme Hammond

lazybones - Sent - 08/Sep/07 with Helen Sanders

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/07

gibbo38 - 2nd - 12/Aug/07 with Robert

gibbo21 - 2nd - 12/Aug/07 with Robert

Theeni - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Matt Dalby

The Boy Riley - Lead - Aug/07

Hidden - Solo - Aug/07

scullymammoth - 2nd - 22/Jul/07 with Tom (dread)

toasted - Lead - 17/Jun/07 with Ian Atkins

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jun/07

Adam Potter - 2nd - 02/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07

Nick Smith - UKC - Solo rpt - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - Solo - 21/Apr/07

Jim Vach - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/07

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Feb/07

clive-greenwood - Solo - 03/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

naughtybadboy - 2nd - 17/Dec/06

eley1 - 2nd - Oct/06 with dave

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Sep/06

ieverett - Lead rpt - Jun/06 with David Everett

Hidden - Solo - Jun/06

Rampikino - Lead - 28/May/06 with MMC Various

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/06

failed miserably getting over the roof, and gave up after 4 attempts
Caralynh - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06

stevo smith - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/06 with Chris scott

2shortplanks - Lead - 31/Mar/06

Jon Greengrass - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Graham Titterton

loonyclimber - 2006

loonyclimber - 2006

good intro to roof climbing.
Alex Mason - Solo - Aug/05 with rob lonsdale

Hidden - Lead - Jul/05

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/05

Hidden - TR O/S - 29/May/05

Mark Riley - Solo O/S - May/05

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with John Inkpen

Hidden - Solo - Apr/05

Nicos - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/05 with solo

rolaston - TR - 2005

Hidden - Solo - 14/Nov/04

Tim W - 2nd - 26/Sep/04 with Darren Miller

darren1 - 26/Sep/04 with Janna Miller

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/04 with mark richardson

martroberts - Lead O/S - 31/May/04

malc - Lead dog - 09/Apr/04 with PS/MH

dicky79 - 2nd - 2004 with Mike Bottomley

adam carless - Solo O/S - 2004

Neil Curtis - Lead rpt - 26/Oct/03 with Alan Barnes

Marq - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/03 with Daniel Dennehy

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/03

Hidden - Solo - 20/Sep/03

Never have finished it!
Phil West - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/03 with Shaun Walby & Chris Tan

Neil Curtis - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/03 with Jenny Haddaway

bigphil - Solo - 13/Jul/03

Monk - Lead O/S - 26/May/03

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Apr/03

sdht - 2003

slacky - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/02 with John Thompson

Reds - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/02

MikeC59 - TR - 07/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/02

Ropeboy - Solo - 19/May/02

Hidden - Solo rpt - 04/May/02

One Move Wonder
sammoore - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/02 with Newbury College

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2002 with Clare

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 2001 with Nick S

FrankW - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/00 with Unknown

Hidden - Solo - 19/Mar/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

chris sm - Solo O/S - 27/Aug/98

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Nov/97

iskra2000 - Lead - 12/Jul/97 with Andy Leech

craig h - Solo O/S - 10/Aug/96

babymoac - Lead - 05/May/96 with Manda & Jules

cragspud - Lead - Sep/95

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Sep/94

Laramadness - Solo - 16/Jul/94

Hidden - Solo - 30/Apr/94

Guessed date
andyfeds - 1994

Hammy - Solo - 14/Jun/92

leathers - Lead O/S - 24/May/92 with Charlotte Evans

Hidden - Solo - 28/Mar/92

Backinthegame - Solo - Jun/90

BRUCESTRAC - 1990 with Chris Cracknell,Various

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 29/Oct/88

Fell off this a few weeks later, leading in a Whillans harness - ouch!
Iain Thow - Solo - 25/Jun/88

Andy Say - Solo - 07/Mar/88

mark-abz - Solo - 31/May/87

Hidden - 1986

John Marsland - Solo - 18/May/85

sadams - Solo - 16/Jun/84

John Marsland - Solo - 11/Sep/82

johnny20whales - Solo - 07/Jun/81

Hidden - Solo - 08/May/78

Mark Kemball - Solo - 28/Aug/77

Nigel Bond - Solo - 13/Feb/77

mikej - Solo - 01/Apr/73 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, leeds_belle, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Jack Whiteley, Hidden, skittles, PanzerHanzler, blancbleu

Voting
Total votes cast 250
hard VS1 of 87
VS0 of 87
easy VS25 of 87
hard HS5 of 87
HS46 of 87
easy HS6 of 87
hard S4 of 87
S0 of 87
easy S0 of 87
hard 5a1 of 91
5a1 of 91
easy 5a62 of 91
hard 4c12 of 91
4c12 of 91
easy 4c1 of 91
hard 4b2 of 91
4b0 of 91
easy 4b0 of 91
3 Stars1 of 72
2 Stars21 of 72
1 Star41 of 72
0 Stars8 of 72
Bag of .....1 of 72
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Style of ascent

Soloed93 of 314 (29.6%)
Lead139 of 314 (44.3%)
Followed56 of 314 (17.8%)
Toproped7 of 314 (2.2%)
Bouldered2 of 314 (0.6%)
Unknown17 of 314 (5.4%)

'Climbed'126 of 314 (40.1%)
clean O/S127 of 314 (40.4%)
clean β5 of 314 (1.6%)
clean rpt18 of 314 (5.7%)
clean RP7 of 314 (2.2%)
dogged10 of 314 (3.2%)
dnf21 of 314 (6.7%)