Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack from a niche gives steep jamming with a feeling of urgency despite its brevity. © Rockfax

FA. Alan McHardy 1959

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

Hidden 01/Nov 2nd β
benlatham07 17/Oct Lead O/S
Mattsword_23 ?/Oct Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Sep Lead O/S
gavinpeach 03/Aug Lead O/S

Nice route. Some good HVS' on this wall.

with Hellen
Gudge 16/Jul Lead O/S
DavidR 11/Jul Lead O/S
Pero 11/Jun 2nd
gritnit 11/Jun Lead
tim newton 04/May 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 04/May Lead O/S
gpcomps 26/Apr 2nd O/S
with miketong, Mike Preece
miketong 26/Apr 2nd dog
with Mike Preece, Greg Partridge
Jim Malo 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with Mark
cem 18/Apr Lead rpt
with Hervé Péter-Contesse
oread 06/Apr 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ?/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
Sam McCarthy 21/Mar Lead dog
john lynch 05/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Joe Holden
hirving 01/Nov/14 TR rpt
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead
George Killaspy 11/Oct/14 Lead dog
DaveB61 28/Sep/14 Lead
MikeDowsett 28/Sep/14 2nd
rich_hw 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Pete_PCC
apw 02/Jul/14 2nd
with Richard Williams
john_ni 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt
MD 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Alison C
JasonK 17/May/14 2nd
with Neil Redgrave
Alison Cairns 17/May/14 2nd
with mike dennis
Trobbo 05/May/14 2nd
with Nick Hepburn
julesmckim 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 26/Apr/14 2nd
with Chris Waddle
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Mick r 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Ian Storey, Dave L
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Dec/13 TR dog
hirving 07/Dec/13 TR RP

rock was damp and cold

LukeRobinson 07/Dec/13 TR dog
Hidden 07/Dec/13 TR RP
Hardcore Pat 28/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Dr Julie, Lynds
Jack93 22/Sep/13 Solo O/S
cpt_crunch 22/Sep/13 Lead dog
vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
Mowglee 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Ali
Matthew Robinson 18/Aug/13 Lead
with David
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
migs493 30/Jun/13 2nd β

Stanage HVS

with LO
Chris Wright 16/Jun/13 Lead
Chris Wright 16/Jun/13 Lead
Coel Hellier 05/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Andrew Sloan 19/May/13 Lead dog

Pumped after trying ajacent Deuteronomy.

chrisallan 19/May/13 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
hotfeet 05/May/13 2nd
with David Dees
Marcin78 05/May/13 Lead β
with Andy
onlyfoddington 21/Apr/13 2nd dog

Damn cold - naturally I barely flirted with the jamming and opted to layback.

with Adam
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard, Owen
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
alooker ?/Apr/13 Lead dog

Disappointed, tried this as a gentle warm up and got taught in the cold... Easy climbing but sustained

jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with big Si
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd rpt
woodsy 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
with rich
fatbuoybazza 23/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with deborah
Hidden 23/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Dan_Carroll 15/Sep/12 Solo O/S
jshields 01/Sep/12 Lead

Repeat,previous lead '93/94

with Paul Tretheway
howlingbaboon 20/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Scott
Boy 14/Aug/12 Solo
joshen 11/Aug/12 Lead dog
Fragmod 10/Jun/12 Lead


cragtyke 10/Jun/12 2nd
khawk 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with DT
Steve Waters, Mynydd 12/May/12 Lead

Great value. Studying at UKC Crack School paid off although I was marooned at the bottom of the fist jamming crack for ages trying to work it out. Very pleasing when I cracked it as my strength was waning.

mtempest 12/May/12 2nd
Double Knee Bar 12/May/12 Lead dog

One to come back to. Steep.

gingerwolf 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Glenn
Oliver Houston 06/May/12 Lead

Lead n steves gear, seconded by Libby

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd
the power 25/Mar/12 2nd dnf


Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
deacondeacon 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Smith
PAJames ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 2nd
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jon22 30/Oct/11 2nd
Paul1 16/Oct/11 2nd

had to rest so that i could use both hands to wigle gear out.

with Mikey
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
spragglerocks 01/Oct/11 Lead RP

Rested on the gear first attempt. Left gear in place and repeated it clean.

Lumbering Oaf 01/Oct/11 2nd RP
Hidden 17/Aug/11 2nd
manwithacam 14/Aug/11 Lead

same grade as Terrazza Crack, a whole lot easier!Nice climb

with Joris
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead
Joris.Roulleau 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Nigel Bond 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Rob Davies ?/Aug/11 2nd
with Phil Ashton
jasoncash 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
andycash 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with jason cash
stuaart 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I appear to have used a `wrist jam' rather than a fist jam. Ouch. Has a good combination of steep stuff and rest points. Unlike Deuteronomy next door...

with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
nikinko 09/Jul/11 TR dog
with Thea
Hidden 20/Jun/11 2nd β
Jimbo C 11/Jun/11 2nd

One of the best fist jams I've ever come across

with Pete
Lumbering Oaf 02/May/11 2nd dog

Just too knackered to do it.

with Simon Caldrick
Alaric 01/May/11 TR dog

Set up as a top rope. 1 fall

with Laura, Ed, Paul L, Neil
matthewpwilson 01/May/11 TR dnf
laura wilson 01/May/11 TR
Ed Griffin 01/May/11 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
shugsan 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Bob M
Mowglee 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
gnc760 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Freshers
Dan Geh 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Roberto ?/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jim
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Pilch 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S

steep but good holds

with Graham, Ed
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Si dH 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gary
andrew sandercock 02/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with robert sandercock
fifth ??/2010 -
Helen Gibson 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with bill
w.pettet-smith 10/Oct/09 Lead

very damp. got a bit scared.

Ketu 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd dog
Tony Holdsworth 08/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Pete completed Guido's attempt

with Peter Harris
Hidden 08/Jun/09 -
danm 04/Jun/09 Lead
Tadams 03/Jun/09 Lead
with Eddie Garside
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 Lead
Hidden 12/May/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/09 2nd
@ndy 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with gareth
morganator 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
jameshall 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
BicepAndrews 21/Feb/09 Lead
with Emma Taylor
Reaver2k 10/Feb/09 Lead dog

Had to rest on this, got flash pump and ran out of stamina. Quite easy moves all the way up, just wish I had a bit more juice in my tank! In hindsight I should have just blasted on through and gone for it but I'm a wimp. Some good jamming all the way up this. Lovely. But windy!

with Michael
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
MikeDowsett ??/2009 2nd
with John Harrison
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 19/Oct/08 Lead dog

cold, very windy and we couldnt be arsed, only climb of the day, rested 3 times, good route, but will come back to do clean

with daveyw
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd
dannyboy83 18/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Floris
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead
Andrew Sloan 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Steve Grove
tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
kdlauder 20/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Peter Kastner
Brown 16/Aug/08 Solo O/S
dj_brigham05 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
chris2451 10/Aug/08 2nd dog

took a meaty fall on lead then gingerly seconded

Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead rpt
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead
bullwinkle 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
btc 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with elliot hunston
wingalina 22/Oct/07 2nd dog
wingalina 20/Oct/07 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 30/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Got pumped and fell off when the crack widened to a fist jam.

with James
Hidden 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
cem 09/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Liam Mark
Hidden 01/Jun/07 2nd
Hedley 22/May/07 2nd
timharrison 22/May/07 Lead
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with AJ
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
AJ007 ??/2007 Lead
Peakpdr ??/2007 -
with phill
stuart100 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
bobette 10/Sep/06 2nd dog
with mike
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd
ChrisBrooke 26/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Stig 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
dan gibson ??/2006 -
mel holmes 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/05 Lead
catt 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/05 2nd
reg_measures 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Nov/04 Lead dog
Neil Curtis 09/Oct/04 2nd
with Pete Barnes
MeMeMe ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead O/S
WRMusall 16/May/04 TR
with Shaun and Gary
cem 06/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Sally Dipple
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
Carl Smethurst 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Duncan I ??/2003 Lead
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
goi.ashmore 09/Apr/99 Solo O/S
Roget 21/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Stoney Boy 18/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
Stoney Boy 06/May/95 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead dog
with Richard Bradbury
Hidden 03/Sep/94 TR dnf
Hidden 21/Mar/93 2nd
Neil R 15/Aug/92 2nd
with Richard W
Chris Ellis 17/Jul/91 2nd
with Dan Morgan
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/91 2nd
with Bill G
babymoac 29/Apr/89 Lead
with MTW
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S

soloed down

Dave Musgrove 03/Dec/83 -
with Kim Greenald
Andy Fielding ??/1982 Lead
with Mike Gilbert
Rob Davies 28/Jun/81 2nd
with Mick Moss
Hidden ?/Nov/79 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Apr/79 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 08/May/78 TR
rogerskews ??/1975 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, AsleepOnBelay, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Ragnaar, Chi Cheng, Rachel Loaring, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set