Rockfax Description
Climb the buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof. Intimidating but not too bad. © Rockfax

FFA. Alan Clarke 1964

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

thetradlad 10/Oct 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 10/Oct Solo O/S

Took a while to work out a way to pull the top roof that I was happy with.

Harry Thorpe 10/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep Lead O/S
evenL ?/Sep Lead O/S
Gloria 25/Aug 2nd


BTphonehome 23/Aug 2nd
with Tony
tmawer 23/Aug Lead O/S
with Bram
BareBears 09/Aug Lead O/S

Found the start harder than the finishing overhang. Plenty of protection. Strenuous and super fun

with Kay, Joe Cresswell
JCresswell 09/Aug 2nd O/S
with Daniel Jackson
Hidden 02/Aug Solo O/S
BarnDawg 25/Jul Lead dnf

totally defeated by the high crux

Gloria 25/Jul 2nd
andybirtwistle 12/Jul 2nd
odox 12/Jul Lead
DavidR 11/Jul Lead O/S
Pero 11/Jun 2nd
gritnit 11/Jun Lead
ColdAndWet 03/Jun Lead
JohnBotham 03/Jun 2nd
Hidden 28/May Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May 2nd
djones66 10/May Lead dog

Much recommended, even though I rested on the crux after much mucking about. After I'd had a proper think about it, did it fine.

with Stve mc D
mike8331 26/Apr 2nd
danm 26/Apr Lead
with Laura Evans
Hoyes 26/Apr 2nd O/S

In trainers!

Batt 26/Apr Lead O/S

Surprising knee bar! Jugs out right, lob leg up and heave.

stev1e.wilso 19/Apr 2nd
with Simon
petemeads 18/Apr Lead


cem 18/Apr Lead O/S

HVS 5a in definitive guide.

with Hervé Péter-Contesse
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd dnf
robgixer 18/Apr Lead O/S
Jack93 09/Apr Lead
JoshT 09/Apr 2nd
cookie-doo 08/Apr 2nd O/S
BDC 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Anna
Palmer 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
Sam McCarthy 21/Mar 2nd O/S
shaunhumphreys 20/Mar Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
lewiswilson 01/Nov/14 TR O/S
ralphio 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Although very well protected still felt hvs. The section under the roof is almost 5b. Helmet got in the way somewhat. Worth more than the one star it gets in Eastern Grit.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 24/Sep/14 2nd
with Ralph
Andy Fielding 07/Sep/14 Lead
goddamm7 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
colin milton 05/Sep/14 2nd
with shaun l
adam clarke 09/Aug/14 Lead dnf
with Adam Lynch, James Hulme
minaturechris 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Stacey
Manchi 09/Aug/14 2nd
with tim_mcd
staceyjg 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
tim_mcd 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Manchi
max_chan 19/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mick PCC
Anna Maykova 14/Jun/14 2nd
with Ian
Ian MK 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Anna
simon1965 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Think it 's woth HVS just but good whatever.

with James
Stig 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Deezel65 18/May/14 2nd O/S
with John Ganley
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead dnf
cragtyke 18/May/14 2nd
with john g
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
freemanTom 17/May/14 Lead O/S

HVS all the way and quality

with John Price
Stone Muppet 17/May/14 2nd
with peter
MD 17/May/14 2nd
with Alison C
JasonK 17/May/14 Lead
with Neil Redgrave
Alison Cairns 17/May/14 Lead rpt

Get a tall mate to place protection above the first o/hang! Quite hard at the top!

with mike dennis
Trobbo 05/May/14 2nd
with Nick Hepburn
the power 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with deacon
rob.grafton 27/Apr/14 AltLd
with becky, conor shepherd, Martin Smith, jim h
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Tom Redmond 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Andy, Hellen
andy.smythe ?/Mar/14 Lead
jotunscope ?/Mar/14 2nd β
with Ali McEwen
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Nick Wallis 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
amccann 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
sian88 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Unknownbiker 14/Sep/13 2nd
with Simon Burn
Hidden ?/Sep/13 -
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
alp79 30/Aug/13 2nd
ashtond6 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mtempest 25/Aug/13 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 25/Aug/13 2nd
robaj 23/Aug/13 2nd dnf

No idea how to do this one. Got all the gear out at least.

aking12 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt
RosieLynch 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
aking12 17/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Mike Stevenson
LucasHarazin 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JanBella 02/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with helen
Hidden 09/Jun/13 TR
chrisbussell 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
Jim Slater 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Hasn't got any easier!

stevelismore 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
ColinD 01/Jun/13 Lead

Made a meal, missed all face holds on right...it's more fun that way.

Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
efrance24234 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Liz davies, Nicki
lizzie789 26/May/13 2nd dog

Not vs!

Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
Andrew Sloan 19/May/13 2nd rpt

Stiff pulls through lower and upper overhangs.

Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
David Kay 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mel Michon
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
WalnutHorse 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mat cooper ??/2013 Lead O/S
oread ??/2013 Lead O/S
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Si lead

Luke Davies 26/Oct/12 Lead
phillipjohnson 20/Oct/12 -
bigbobbyking 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

HVS in rockfax...

fuzzysheep01 14/Oct/12 2nd dog

HVS - very tough upper overhang, a bit beyond me.

Ross.Cooper 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Lottie K, Becky R
lithos 06/Oct/12 Lead

great fun and well protected HVS-

with Stu B
woodsy 06/Oct/12 -
with rich
deacondeacon 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Jen Maxfield
Maken 05/Aug/12 2nd
tallsop 05/Aug/12 Lead
with Chris
jshields 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Roman Jivkov
Coel Hellier 12/Jul/12 Lead
RichyBOYY 20/Jun/12 Lead

VS.......... Bollocks! HVS without a doubt!

Hidden 18/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 14/Jun/12 2nd
LakesWinter 22/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 22/May/12 2nd O/S
tompilgrem 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dad
rich_hw 12/May/12 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Glenn
bobpilgrem 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb- probably just HVS- well protected.

with Tom
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
iliff 28/Mar/12 Lead
with lee
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/12 2nd
john lynch 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Ahab ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 2nd
glennofsheff 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

over the first roof fairly easily , second one proved more tricky could nt sort good foot sequence .. solution .. good old thuggery !!!! pulled hard ,cut loose, pulled harder gained the ledge .relief , grin !

Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
spragglerocks 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Second roof is the tougher of the two! Ummed and Ahhed about how to do it, and then, like many other's before me, resorted to thuggery! Not the most graceful of exits :)

Rachel Somerville 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Des Chadderton
Mikael 10/Sep/11 Lead

With Barry's helmet

Hidden 07/Sep/11 2nd
Somerset swede basher 02/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Jeremy Windsor
Nigel Bond 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
mark20 09/Aug/11 Lead β
LakesWinter 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Fell off at the overhang. Shame.

with Mark R
Julie Carroll 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Williams
tim.fairhall 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Hui
Blurgy319 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Rimon Than
andybirtwistle 26/Jul/11 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
Neil R 23/Jul/11 2nd
with John
Brannock 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Used 3 heel hooks! Nice route and not awkward at all. HVS 5a/b

shaky2 14/Jul/11 2nd
allyrocke 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

pure nice route by the way man but deffo an hvs

treg 03/Jul/11 Lead dog

True to the guide book description, the top section was done with minimal style. Only my third HVS lead, but have done plenty of VS and this definitely seemed like a step up. I'm going with the Rockfax & BMC grade, thanks.

with Rachel, The Clevenger
tomthecoolperson 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
climbing_rocks1983 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
pete1993 03/Apr/11 Lead
daveyji ?/Apr/11 2nd

couldn't even start this today...too tired.

with JT
CRiddiford 24/Mar/11 2nd
Jake Young 24/Mar/11 Lead rpt
bwestwood 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 14/Mar/11 2nd
with bwestwood
JRae 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves on both boulder problems. Airy sequence at the top to a sudden "seat" was a bit weird.

with Jake, Oli H
Jake Young 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Jake Young 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Steve J
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 06/Mar/11 2nd

Struggled on initial start

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Sarah Brookes 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Russ 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Tom Campbell 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JamieSparkes 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S

really enjoyable route - two bouldery problems stacked together with a good rest between them

with Nick
Nick1812P 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie
swoosh 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie Armatage
Dan Lane 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S

a hard pull over the roof at the bottom, and it is all fairly simple from there really.

with Dave
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
migs493 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
pog100 10/Jul/10 2nd
Daniel Heath 10/Jul/10 2nd β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 -
Irn Bruce 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good hidden holds directly over the overhang justifies the VS definitive grade, although holding yourself in the position and committing to find them on the on-sight tends to HVS. Fun finish, fun start :-)

nick ferro 22/May/10 -
Pilch 15/May/10 Lead O/S

lots of holds used to get round on to the ledge, with lots of pointing and laughing from below. Graham went direct up the wall (show off), Lloyd struggled like me and found the useful chin hold

with Graham and Lloyd
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead O/S
catblack 09/May/10 2nd
with Tom Lyons
andrea83 08/May/10 2nd O/S

Good. Much harder than it looks to step left around the roof. Found a bit awkward.

with Dan
thomasmouse 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 24/Apr/10 Lead
chrisallan 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
greenclimb 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 22/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 21/Mar/10 2nd
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
christensena 18/Oct/09 2nd
LoopyLou 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Beauty. Classic hard bouldery start and tough committing move to get onto the face to finish. pity there isn't more of a middle section to the climb. Its over too quickly

with Nicola - Pinnacle club
Chris Ellis 25/Sep/09 2nd
with Martin Veale
danm 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Brian (Smacks), Jake
Tim W 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
RCrockford 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Mike A, Dave C
max_chan 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Lou
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 02/Jul/09 2nd dog

Pumped out on last bulge due to retrieving gear - rests

with Pete (thin)
Si dH 27/Jun/09 2nd rpt

Have failed leading this in the past. Seconded ok today, but its very hard for 5a.

with Olly
Poco Loco 21/Jun/09 2nd dog

A tough VS! The rockover to the left block on the second overhang is quite strenuous - I'm not sure if I did it right but it felt hard.

bobbarnes00 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead. Or so I thought, as this site only grades it VS. I feel robbed!

Hidden 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Tony Holdsworth 08/Jun/09 2nd O/S

and Pete.

with Guido
Tadams 03/Jun/09 Lead
with Eddie Garside
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 12/May/09 2nd
The Bad Cough 10/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with alan taylor
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd dog
markytaylor 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with andy
morganator 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
jameshall 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
Jim Slater 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Why is this down as a VS, surely HVS??

with Mark Mercer
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/08 2nd dog
stuckonarock 12/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Matthew
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Luke Allen
Scott McRae 30/Aug/08 Lead dnf

harder than the flange which is HVS 5b!

Hidden 30/Aug/08 AltLd dnf
Brown 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 16/Aug/08 2nd dog
with Brown
dj_brigham05 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
chris2451 10/Aug/08 2nd dog
Jim Slater 03/Jul/08 2nd dog

Attempted lead - failed on second hard move. HVS 5b in my opinion.

with Trevor Wilson
Dave Mountford ?/Jul/08 2nd
with alex thackaway
howlingbaboon 28/Jun/08 TR O/S

steep and pumpy

Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 14/Jun/08 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mark (UBMC)
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
jugglingeek 05/May/08 TR dog

A very powerful start until the climb eases on the slab before the final powerful rock over. Made perhaps one of the least graceful assents in the history of Stanage. Involving sitting on a ledge franticly clawing at anything to keep me from falling off.

with will
Creep_pea 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Sam
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead
Alfredo ?/May/08 Lead
with Ben H
gazfellows 29/Apr/08 2nd
PenJD 23/Feb/08 Lead
with Simon Palmer
Martin Haworth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
bullwinkle 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Paul
mel holmes 28/Jan/08 Lead
mel holmes 28/Jan/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
victim of mathematics 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S

With a little bit of combined tactics at the start :)

Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
MeMeMe 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
Mick B 19/Jun/07 2nd
with Rick Asher
dan gibson 17/Jun/07 Solo rpt
b.hayley ?/May/07 2nd
AJ007 21/Apr/07 Lead
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Solo
with AJ
scarybiker 01/Apr/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
nai ?/Mar/07 2nd
with Chris
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Pete Horn ??/2007 -
with The artist formerly known as Smokey Rob
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Peakpdr ??/2007 -
Rob Davies 02/Dec/06 2nd
with Phil Ashton
Nicos 02/Oct/06 Solo O/S
with solo
harryt 01/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Gareth
aulda 10/Sep/06 2nd dog

Hung on the rope on both overhangs - late in the day

with Dave S
viking ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
with gareth
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead
ChrisBrooke 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Mike H 22/Apr/06 Lead
with Roy Broadbridge
Stig 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
dan gibson ??/2006 -
LoopyLou ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 13/May/05 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/05 2nd
Adam Potter 03/Apr/05 TR
WRMusall 16/May/04 TR
with Shaun and Gary
r0b 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Gary Wood
Marq 28/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
Chris Reid 15/Mar/03 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 14/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
stp ?/Jun/02 Solo O/S
Roget 01/Jul/01 Solo O/S
martroberts 07/May/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ropeboy 08/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
Iain Thow 05/Jun/88 2nd


with Steve di Ponio
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
mark-abz 13/Jun/87 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1982 Solo
Mark Kemball 17/Feb/80 Lead
with Andy Stephenson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, GLO, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mills85, Chalky Cat
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 101
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 80
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set