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Quantum Crack* VS 5a

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[Making maximum struggle on to the ledge. Quantum crack. HVS5a, Stanage High Neb. , 2 kb]10m. Climb the central buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Alan Clarke 1964

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: Making maximum struggle on to the ledge. Quantum crack. HVS5a, Stanage High Neb. © Clev
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 214 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Stiff pulls through lower and upper overhangs.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 19/May/13 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/13

David Kay - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Mel Michon

WalnutHorse - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

mat cooper - Lead O/S - 2013

Si lead
Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Si, Michael H

Luke Davies - Lead - 26/Oct/12

Hidden - 20/Oct/12

HVS in rockfax...
bigbobbyking - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

HVS - very tough upper overhang, a bit beyond me.
fuzzysheep01 - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/12 with Rob King

Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Lottie K, Becky R

great fun and well protected HVS-
lithos - Lead - 06/Oct/12 with Stu B

woodsy - 06/Oct/12 with rich

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Jen Maxfield

Triangle4321 - 2nd - 05/Aug/12 with Tom Allsop

tallsop - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with Chris

jshields - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Roman Jivkov

Coel Hellier - Lead - 12/Jul/12

VS.......... Bollocks! HVS without a doubt!
RichyBOYY - Lead - 20/Jun/12 with Oli Knowles

"Easy for the grade" claims guide book. Not today it wasn't! Desperate. Or did we miss something at the top overhang?
JohnHutch - AltLd dnf - 18/Jun/12 with Nik H

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead β - 22/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/12

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Dad

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with JohnBramwell

gingerwolf - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Glenn

Nice climb- probably just HVS- well protected.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Tom

tommack - Lead O/S - May/12 with H.Swindell

iliff - Lead - 28/Mar/12 with lee

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/12

john lynch - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/12 with Lewis Andrew

Ahab - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Oct/11

over the first roof fairly easily , second one proved more tricky could nt sort good foot sequence .. solution .. good old thuggery !!!! pulled hard ,cut loose, pulled harder gained the ledge .relief , grin !
glennofsheff - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with chris loneragan

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Oct/11

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Matt Box

Second roof is the tougher of the two! Ummed and Ahhed about how to do it, and then, like many other's before me, resorted to thuggery! Not the most graceful of exits :)
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Rachel Spraggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

With Barry's helmet
Mikael - Lead - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/11

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - Sep/11

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Jeremy Windsor

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

mark20 - Lead β - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/11

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Paul Williams

Blurgy319 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Rimon Than

andybirtwistle - Lead - 26/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

Used 3 heel hooks! Nice route and not awkward at all. HVS 5a/b
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Ally Rocke

shaky2 - 2nd - 14/Jul/11

pure nice route by the way man but deffo an hvs
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Liam Ingram

True to the guide book description, the top section was done with minimal style. Only my third HVS lead, but have done plenty of VS and this definitely seemed like a step up. I'm going with the Rockfax & BMC grade, thanks.
treg - Lead dog - 03/Jul/11 with Rachel, The Clevenger

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11

iceaxejuggler - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Dave Felton

climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Ruth, Kieran, Petey

pete1993 - Lead - 03/Apr/11

couldn't even start this today...too tired.
daveyji - 2nd - Apr/11 with JT

CRiddiford - 2nd - 24/Mar/11 with Jake Young

Jake Young - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/11 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/11

pie_eater_pete - 2nd - 14/Mar/11 with bwestwood

Nice moves on both boulder problems. Airy sequence at the top to a sudden "seat" was a bit weird.
JRae - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Jake, Oli H

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Johny R, Jarvis

Jake Young - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Steve J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Struggled on initial start
Oliver Houston - 2nd - 06/Mar/11

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Sarah Brookes - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Martin Russ

Russ - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10

Tom Campbell - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/10

really enjoyable route - two bouldery problems stacked together with a good rest between them
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Jamie

a hard pull over the roof at the bottom, and it is all fairly simple from there really.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

migs493 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Dan

pog100 - 2nd - 10/Jul/10 with Reaver2k

Daniel Heath - 2nd β - 10/Jul/10 with Mike Smith

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/10

wolverine - 03/Jul/10 with Steve Clark

Good hidden holds directly over the overhang justifies the VS definitive grade, although holding yourself in the position and committing to find them on the on-sight tends to HVS. Fun finish, fun start :-)
Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Ian Jenkins

nick ferro - 22/May/10

lots of holds used to get round on to the ledge, with lots of pointing and laughing from below. Graham went direct up the wall (show off), Lloyd struggled like me and found the useful chin hold
Pilch - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Graham and Lloyd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/10

catblack - 2nd - 09/May/10 with Tom Lyons

Good. Much harder than it looks to step left around the roof. Found a bit awkward.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 08/May/10 with Dan

thomasmouse - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Mark Williams

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with sarah

Ed Feldman - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/10

Steven Andrews - 2nd - 21/Mar/10

katyvose1 - 2010

christensena - 2nd - 18/Oct/09

Beauty. Classic hard bouldery start and tough committing move to get onto the face to finish. pity there isn't more of a middle section to the climb. Its over too quickly
LoopyLou - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Nicola - Pinnacle club

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 25/Sep/09 with Martin Veale

danm - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Brian (Smacks), Jake

Tim W - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Darren Miller

RCrockford - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with Mike A, Dave C

max_chan - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Lou

Pumped out on last bulge due to retrieving gear - rests
Neil Rodgers (PCC) - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/09 with Pete (thin)

Have failed leading this in the past. Seconded ok today, but its very hard for 5a.
Si dH - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/09 with Olly

A tough VS! The rockover to the left block on the second overhang is quite strenuous - I'm not sure if I did it right but it felt hard.
Poco Loco - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09 with Bob Barnes

My first HVS lead. Or so I thought, as this site only grades it VS. I feel robbed!
bobbarnes00 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with James Pomeroy

madmats - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

and Pete.
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Guido

Tadams - Lead - 03/Jun/09 with Eddie Garside

Ben Sidsaph - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Guy Buckingham

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/09

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Tom Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Russell Lovett - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with alan taylor

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Apr/09

markytaylor - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/09 with andy

morganator - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/09

jameshall - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Simon

Why is this down as a VS, surely HVS??
Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Mark Mercer

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/08

davis.pete - Lead dog - 18/Oct/08 with Jon Hawes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/08

Chris wilson - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/08 with John F

stuckonarock - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/08 with Matthew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Luke Allen

harder than the flange which is HVS 5b!
Scott McRae - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/08 with Wavey Davey

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Aug/08

Brown - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Bridget

bridget143 - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/08 with Brown

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Chris Thain

chris2451 - 2nd dog - 10/Aug/08 with David Brigham

Attempted lead - failed on second hard move. HVS 5b in my opinion.
Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/08 with Trev Wilson

steep and pumpy
howlingbaboon - TR O/S - 28/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08

slacky - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Gary Shephard

Laurence Everitt - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/08 with Ant Schwirtz

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Mark (UBMC)

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/08

A very powerful start until the climb eases on the slab before the final powerful rock over. Made perhaps one of the least graceful assents in the history of Stanage. Involving sitting on a ledge franticly clawing at anything to keep me from falling off.
jugglingeek - TR dog - 05/May/08 with will

Creep_pea - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/08

Alfredo - Lead - May/08 with Ben H

gazfellows - 2nd - 29/Apr/08

PenJD - Lead - 23/Feb/08 with Simon Palmer

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Martin Haworth

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Paul

mel holmes - Lead - 28/Jan/08

mel holmes - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

With a little bit of combined tactics at the start :)
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Sophie Whyte

Hidden - Lead - Nov/07

Boulder problem start (with no gear) and then tricky at the top (but well protected). Negative style points for the excessive use of knees!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/07 with bluebrad

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/07

Mick B - 2nd - 19/Jun/07 with Rick Asher

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 17/Jun/07

b.hayley - 2nd - May/07

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/07

dan gibson - Solo - 21/Apr/07 with AJ

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

nai - 2nd - Mar/07 with Chris

Rob Kennard - 2007

Pete Horn - 2007 with The artist formerly known as Smokey Rob

Duncan I - 2007

pauldr - 2007

Nicos - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/06 with solo

harryt - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/06 with Gareth

Hung on the rope on both overhangs - late in the day
aulda - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/06 with Dave S

viking - Lead RP - Sep/06 with gareth

ChrisJD - Lead - 06/Aug/06 with rc

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06 with John Inkpen

Mike H - Lead - 22/Apr/06 with Roy Broadbridge

Stig - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Jonathan Teale

dan gibson - 2006

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Helen Lear

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/05

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/05

Adam Potter - TR - 03/Apr/05

WRMusall - TR - 16/May/04 with Shaun and Gary

r0b - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04 with Gary Wood

Marq - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/03 with Daniel Dennehy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Apr/03

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/02 with Myles Jordan

stp - Solo O/S - Jun/02

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/01

martroberts - Lead O/S - 07/May/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Ropeboy - Lead - 08/Sep/97

Hard!
Iain Thow - 2nd - 05/Jun/88 with Steve di Ponio

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

mark-abz - Lead - 13/Jun/87 with Andy W

Mark Kemball - Lead - 17/Feb/80 with Andy Stephenson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, mills85, Chalky Cat

Voting
Total votes cast 198
hard HVS0 of 71
HVS2 of 71
easy HVS55 of 71
hard VS7 of 71
VS7 of 71
easy VS0 of 71
hard HS0 of 71
HS0 of 71
easy HS0 of 71
hard 5b0 of 70
5b0 of 70
easy 5b10 of 70
hard 5a15 of 70
5a45 of 70
easy 5a0 of 70
hard 4c0 of 70
4c0 of 70
easy 4c0 of 70
3 Stars0 of 57
2 Stars34 of 57
1 Star22 of 57
0 Stars0 of 57
Bag of .....1 of 57
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Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 214 (7.0%)
Lead100 of 214 (46.7%)
Followed78 of 214 (36.4%)
Toproped4 of 214 (1.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 214 (0.9%)
Unknown15 of 214 (7.0%)

'Climbed'78 of 214 (36.4%)
clean O/S104 of 214 (48.6%)
clean β3 of 214 (1.4%)
clean rpt8 of 214 (3.7%)
clean RP1 of 214 (0.5%)
dogged15 of 214 (7.0%)
dnf5 of 214 (2.3%)