UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb, steep and intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the roof. Step left and pull hard to the juggy cracks above. The direct start is HVS 5b. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1915.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stan , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Severe Stanage , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Stanage green spot starters , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge

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User Date Notes
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Polished in areas.
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βeta: Polished in areas.
Christopher Owen 13 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete.
Fidget 1 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
βeta?
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βeta: At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
fenclimb 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting in this atm
βeta?
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βeta: Birds nesting in this atm

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 118
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Principia

Grade: S 4a ***
(Shining Clough)

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