Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a worrying finale. Start up the short crack and make hard moves (especially for the short) to easier ground. Lace the break, then teeter up the final slab by ever more committing moves. Side-runners lower the E-grade. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Cheethamjd 11/Oct TR dog
Lizzie B 10/Oct TR dog
with Jonny Cheetham
Teappleby 23/Sep TR rpt

Did it twice to take some photos of people on quietus. The climbing was just as nice as I remember, just a bit less harrowing being on a rope and it not being really hot!!

pete1993 23/Sep TR β

shunted, moves felt ok

FlavioL1989 12/Sep Lead dnf

Quite hard in the rain, chalk didn't help

EBailey 07/Aug 2nd β
CaelanB 03/Aug 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 03/Aug Lead O/S

Led this as my first E3 (no side runners or any of the other BS many in the logbook seem to be doing). It's a pretty obvious line and calling it an eliminate or 'not being able to find the route' seems pretty lame, you just go straight up, it's not rocket science. Most of the routes on grit you can escape left or right. *rant over* The moves on this route are brilliant, a hard but somewhat safe crux lower down (good footwork helps here) protected with a big wire and a cam, then 2 gold dragon cams in the mid break before the super sketchy top moves. These would protect a fall just fine. Man up people (This from an indoor climber!)

with Caelan
Fraser hill-casey 05/Jul Lead O/S

Felt very hard for 5C at the bottom! I ended up going straight up rather than trending let at the top. Not sure how it altered the route but either way it felt extremely bold!

evenL 05/Jul 2nd
Hidden 16/May 2nd β
drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
mike8331 13/May TR
JEP 26/Apr 2nd O/S
fjg123 21/Apr Lead dnf

dropped the last move, broke self

drysori 17/Apr TR
Mr Wild 06/Apr 2nd
Canyak ??/2015 -
Stefan_Morris 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with harry, stefan
Gudge 28/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't suss bottom section - very reachy!

cem 28/Oct/14 Lead dnf

A fit of misplaced optimism prompted me to have a go. After much faffing, I did the first of the couple of 'taxing' moves referred to in the guidebook but (after even more faffing) I couldn't do/wouldn't commit to the second.

Albachoss 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Bailed from the top and did the moves with high runners, onsight till wimpout.

Hidden 11/Oct/14 TR
lena.drapella 11/Oct/14 2nd dog
BenL 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with SUMC
ian d f 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Focuses the mind. No side runners.

pearson9596 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
el disco 03/Sep/14 TR
with conrad
Hidden 03/Sep/14 TR
Matthew Ferrier 28/Aug/14 Lead

Ran away at the top, didn't want to get blown away.

mrteale 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Very windy day. Scared and timid climbing.

with MrBlond
Hidden 04/Aug/14 -
Teappleby 24/Jul/14 Lead RP

thought about the onsight, but was quite happy I shunted it first, lower moves took a bit of figuring out when you're as short as me! oh and no side runners.

PeteWilson 11/Jun/14 2nd

did the first half, couldn't be arsed with the second bit. this route is double-dog-shit.

with Dave
dannyboy83 26/May/14 2nd O/S
funsized 26/May/14 Lead O/S

bit worrying

mc fifi 24/May/14 2nd O/S

went off route at the first crux and used right arete

Hidden 27/Apr/14 TR O/S
mike mo ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
rustaldo 01/Dec/13 Lead rpt

Still hard and committing. Had a cam in the r-hand crack this time which seems in. Took awhile to psych up for the top slab.

bwestwood 16/Nov/13 Lead

Side runner E2

oapstude 17/Oct/13 TR β
rurp 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Hard but fair. Great to latch the top

with bill farmer
alaster tonge 21/Sep/13 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
robgixer ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Zoomer 03/Jun/13 TR RP

Ninja moves initially and smeary finish.

with A Student
Lumbering Oaf 30/Apr/13 TR dog


thetradlad 07/Oct/12 Lead dnf


w.pettet-smith ?/Oct/12 Lead

did a little victory jig at top

with claire jane carter
freemanTom 22/Sep/12 2nd

Superb climb, fine effort from the boy Kyle.

with Kyle Rance, Ben
Hidden 15/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/12 TR
WillDoyle 18/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Fell off near top escaped up chimney.

Chris Craggs 08/Aug/12 TR

Felt harder than is used too! Sketchy finale.

with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes
ianstevens 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Dingchav ?/Jun/12 TR O/S

Quality climb one of my favourites so far! Shame about the midges

Hidden 13/May/12 2nd
Somerset swede basher 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Foumnd the 6a crux fine at the bottom then got slightly too far right at the top (only just left of the crack) which was utterly desperate. Not been that terrified for a while, eventually sketched my way through.

with Rob
Hidden 08/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead dnf
derekb 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Side runners e1?

with Nick
buxtoncoffeelover 28/Mar/12 2nd
Hannes B 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

... as hilty

with Emlyn
fp219 ?/Jan/12 Lead
MeMeMe ??/2012 Lead dnf

Just couldn't work out my feet for the move to the layaway, maybe try again later in the season.

with Cliff
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
swoosh 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Pat Dawson
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
phil64 23/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with nick gillett
Misha 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Waist high side runner before going into the crux layaway move, E2 this way, likely groundfall without! Took ages committing to the move but turned out to be ok if reachy. Also took a while committing to the last move on the slab, partly because there were quite, a few options, turned out to be quite easy in the end - 5b? Good moves but the route is a bit eliminate due to proximity to the easier climbs on either side and and is spoilt by an easy section in the middle, so not worth 3* in my book.

with Ian W, Brian
GPN 15/Oct/11 Lead β

Gear in place. No side runner.

Shaw Brown 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Loz
Owen W-G 01/Oct/11 Lead

Tarnished ascent grabbing R arete with R hand on final move. No E3 tick, need to come back to do it properly, if I can be bothered. Didn't feel very 3*. No line, lacking in gear at the start, escapable to L or R and question of what constitutes as side runners. Do wires in the thin cracks on the R of the slab count? Would feel like an artificially extended run out without them.

with Max & Sam
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

With siderunners. 3 hard moves for me.

with Kenny
Will Hunt 11/Jun/11 TR

Daf led Inaccessible Crack so I seconded up this.

with Halla Parkin, Dafydd Llywelyn
ollyhorst 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
with mat rust
rustaldo 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

cruxy. resorted to facial smear on the last move. bottom couple of cruxes feel quite underprotected, felt certain to deck from the second hard move.

with Olly, Alex
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
gordonday 30/Apr/11 TR O/S
with clive
Alex Thompson 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't get enough height to reach 1st break, backed off.

Ben1983 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Lev 26/Mar/11 TR dog
Alasdair88 26/Mar/11 TR O/S
pie_eater_pete 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 14/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd
hilty 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Piece of piss.

craig naylor 25/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
nathan foster 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
adi bryant 01/Oct/10 Lead RP

1 fall and just held the rounded top. MG was awesome as usual.

with Paul A, Molly-George
SteveM 30/Sep/10 2nd
with Alex
catblack 30/Sep/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Good moves, rubbish line.

Nick1812P 04/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with Jamie
FlorianCastagne 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 15/Aug/10 Lead

Took me an age, thanks Mark. Found the first move the crux and used a runner for the second but not for the top. The top seemed okay compared to the bottom although the heat made the whole thing seem sketchy.

datoon 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with S & K
harold walmsley 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not led in E3 style: used side runner at top. Tried without but moves felt very sketchy. Did it instantly and it felt steady as soon as the side runner went in. Need to sort my head out.

with Colin Struthers
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
7om 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rowansb 28/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ewan
Tez29 16/May/10 Lead O/S

With side runner in crack on right, a little contrived but nice airy climbing.

with Mousey
HamishD 13/May/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
craig naylor 28/Apr/10 2nd
with olly
oliverthomp 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 2nd
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
hilty ??/2010 -

Piece of piss.

feilx 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
JonBrown 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with John Brown
DannyK 16/Oct/09 TR RP
with Christos
Hidden 10/Oct/09 2nd dog
pelvoux 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Tricky balancing move - or I couldn't find the correct one - near the bottom, top technically relatively easy in comparaison as long as one forgets how low is the last runner!

with Stephen
3 Names 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S

On-sight no Side Runners

BruceW 16/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Fell just before first crux (without gear in crack). Will put in next time...

with Becca, Mark, Ju
Dave Warburton 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Well i had to after Franco soloed it 4 times... Thought the first couple of moves were hard and bold. Top was reachy.

Hidden 08/Jul/09 -
jelaby 27/Jun/09 Lead RP

First E3. Tried it before at the end of 2007 and found it fine except for the very top move, which I bottled and escaped right (probably just as hard as going upwards). Very grateful to Mongoose for taking the midgies while belaying...

Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S
coffeepot 27/Jun/09 2nd dog
with jelaby
chris sm 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Without side runners. The crux on the lower wall feels very bold but I was assured I wouldn't hit the ground. Upper slab is quite easy until the final move..... but really if you do the bottom you'll find the top trivial.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
riddle 13/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Fell 6m's at the last move, good gear though. More chalk next time!

with Tom Elliot
mrtom 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Roger HSmith
Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
tallsop 10/May/09 TR O/S

Flashed, would be scary lead

with terry
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd
thomasadixon 02/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Alan, Mike
Reaver2k 02/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Tom Dixon, Michael
Hidden 16/Mar/09 2nd
alexharv3y 18/Jan/09 TR dog
Tobes 18/Jan/09 TR O/S

Proper windy up there, had a punt at this whilst with the uni group freshers. will be back for the lead, side runners or not though?

with Alex
koopa ??/2009 2nd
Ed Booth ??/2009 Lead O/S
metal arms 22/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S
brian watson 27/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with scott titt
lukehunt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
grakgrak 16/Aug/08 2nd
with duncan
Hidden 16/Aug/08 Lead dog
duzinga 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Jim and Guido
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd
bridget143 23/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Upper part only accessed from Impossible Crack

with Dave Childs
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
sparkass ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

No side runners!

andrewwightman ?/Jun/08 2nd
with duncan campbell
Nicos 18/May/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dan gibson 07/Oct/07 Lead RP
with AJ
Hidden 01/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/07 TR O/S
Mr Sparkle 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lindsey Pearson
v.jester 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Mysak
ewen 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with dave gilling
johnwilson123 ?/Jul/07 TR O/S
with paul
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd dog
Coel Hellier 04/Apr/07 Lead
deejmonkey 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
drysori 27/Mar/07 Lead

Without side-runners. Scary. Had previously been rescued off the top move (in the dark!) and I used a side runner at the bottom on that occasion. I would not have attempted it without the side runner if I hadn't done the crux before.

jamesturnbull ??/2007 Lead
with ry
baldcoder 29/Oct/06 TR
Stuart Johnston 22/Oct/06 TR O/S
cem 12/Aug/06 2nd
with Johannes
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead dog
colin milton 14/Jul/06 2nd

avoided the crux on the left.

with fenclimb
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/06 TR
John Andrew Simpson ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Pat Rainbird
Mark Riley 28/May/06 Lead O/S
shaun walby 11/May/06 2nd O/S
Lev 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/06 2nd dog
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S

A most excellent slab after the interesting move to begin. It does get easier as you go up.

with S
bronsonite 27/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Brown 29/Oct/05 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Sep/05 Lead dnf
crossdressingrodney 12/May/05 TR
with gwilym
Gambit 24/Apr/05 Lead RP
with Tim
reg_measures 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S

1 lowish side runner to protect second crux

Theeni ?/Apr/05 2nd
with Reg Measures
Hidden ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/04 Lead O/S
SteveM 11/Jul/04 Lead

With side runners - E2 claimed.

with Cogie
Ropeboy 28/Mar/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Duncan I ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Lead a couple of times

with Naomi Walker, Martin Flint, Ian Smith
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Lead dog
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Trevor Stevens, Colin Brearley
Daniel Armitage 14/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 2nd
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 2nd
with Dan
shoulders 19/May/02 Lead
with tom
CrashMat Rob 11/May/02 TR
with Steve, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Feb/01 -
with Viv
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
martroberts 29/Aug/99 Lead O/S
FrankW 08/Aug/99 2nd O/S
with Levi
Hidden 16/May/99 Lead rpt
sadams ?/May/99 Lead
Rich Kirby 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Suzy
Gordon Stainforth 16/May/98 2nd
with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean
Obi-Wan is lost... 13/Mar/98 Lead
with Phil
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
Hidden ??/1998 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Lead
ste_d 26/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with mik
bigphil 15/Mar/97 2nd
with Toby
rob.grafton 05/May/96 Lead
with Paul McCann, Bruce
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with American Nick
andy_pemberton 29/Oct/95 Lead
Daniel Wrightson ?/Oct/95 Lead β

Have a note that says: "Didn't do it on the proper line.." so maybe I have to go back and do this one again!

with Olivia Horner
Andy Say 14/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 06/May/95 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/94 TR
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead β
IanD353 ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/93 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/93 TR
leathers ??/1993 2nd
with Al Churcher
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Reid ?/Oct/92 Lead O/S
Backinthegame ?/Jun/92 2nd
Chris Ellis 04/May/92 TR
with Andy Bell, Paul Farmer
whispering nic 20/Apr/92 Solo
with Ali W
NeilGriffiths ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/91 2nd
Roget 29/Jun/91 -

led with side runner

with jon
Hidden 21/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/90 TR
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
mark-abz 21/May/90 TR
with Phil R
Hidden 02/Aug/89 AltLd
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Not too bad - bold though

with stumpy
Stoney Boy 13/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Martin Heath
Hidden 28/Jun/89 Lead
scree ?/Jun/89 -
Hidden 27/May/89 2nd
Hidden ?/May/89 2nd
goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Nevil ??/1988 TR

Do not know year

Hidden 31/May/87 Lead
GordonHart ??/1987 Lead
with Kevin
Hidden ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Neil R 02/Nov/86 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Tom V 19/Apr/86 2nd
with Howie Darwin
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mike Owen 11/Oct/85 -
with Graham Lipp
Michael Hood 05/Oct/85 Lead
John Marsland 07/Jul/85 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden 29/Jun/85 Lead
KRB 30/Mar/85 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 30/Mar/85 2nd O/S
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Hidden 19/Aug/84 Lead
Dave Musgrove 27/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 07/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
charlesmfrench 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
redjerry ?/May/81 Lead O/S
with Murray Hamilton
Andy Stephenson 01/Feb/81 Lead O/S

Ken Wilson appeared above as I was contemplating the crux. Slowed me down rather!

with Chris Plant
Hidden 29/Jun/80 Lead
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Hidden 27/Oct/79 TR
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1978 -
with Dorothy Bogg
Hidden 18/Jun/77 TR
rogerskews ??/1975 -
with Keith Jenkins
mikej 13/Jul/69 TR dnf
with John Bickerdyke
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 59
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set