Rockfax Description
A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb a shallow groove to below the roof. Place solid runners then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established round the lip is the crux.
Linking this with the Right-hand is Quietus Middle Leg, E3 6a. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 50 of the Best.

svdie 11/Oct Lead dog
Nick Russell 03/Oct Lead rpt

What a difference those three years have made. No real problems this time, felt like I could hang around all day in those flakes, the sloper felt like velcro and even the jamming was ok!

harry_lewis 23/Sep Lead G/U

Finally :D

with USMC
shaunhumphreys 23/Sep Lead G/U

Tried in April but couldn't manage it, 1st go today quality route!

with Dawn
Sam McCarthy 23/Sep Lead dnf
JamieSparkes 13/Sep Lead dnf

had a couple of goes, fine til the very last move.

with Clement Hutin
rajeshwarbisht 12/Sep 2nd dnf
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 12/Sep Lead O/S

Done during sunset after rain, some bits were still wet. Hardest part was to ignore its reputation, repeating 'i'm psyched' a lot seemed to have worked

pearson9596 16/Aug 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 16/Aug Lead dog

First E2 I've fallen off in years, although I was driven to distraction by the midges and not really thinking straight.

jamesb101 15/Aug Lead dog
mikespooner 15/Aug Lead dnf

Hard! One to come back to

theotherpetehill 09/Aug 2nd dog

Such a pig

with Adam Brown
adam 24 09/Aug Lead dog

Thoroughly defeated by the headwall move, so hard. The cams in the crack got a bit stuck so when i finally got round I topped out with massive rope drag.

EBailey 08/Aug Lead G/U
MichaelGallimore 12/Jul Lead β

Very grit! Beta used: the rockfax guide has a photo of a climber mid crux about throw a whopping great h******* on. It definitely influenced my ascent. Found it difficult and had to reverse moves back to the slab twice for a rest. Superb route!

with jon lawson
RosePearson 23/May 2nd β
with Harry Fogg
TobyA 17/May 2nd dog
with SimonW
drysori 16/May Lead O/S

It's taken me twelve years to get on it, and it put up a fight at the top!

with Everyone!
Brannock 16/May 2nd
Hidden 04/May Lead dog
spragglerocks 26/Apr 2nd dnf
with Misha
Misha 26/Apr Lead

Failed on this in 2011. Still hard but guess I'm better at jamming now. Hung around on the good holds on the lip for a while trying to figure out a reasonably secure jam, went for it but it felt hard so downclimbed for a proper rest. Back up and did it ok but still a struggle and a bit painful! Started with a L hand jam with palm facing R in RH crack, changed hands and got a good but vicious jam in LH crack with L hand. Slightly precarious moves after that, including a knee on the knobble below LH crack. Pleased!

with Rach
Kevster 19/Apr Lead dnf

God knows which version of the route I tried. Equally I found no sinker jams. Maybe a rematch another day will sort it out.

with Lizzie
Kevster 19/Apr Lead dnf

God knows which version of the route I tried. Equally I found no sinker jams. Maybe a rematch another day will sort it out.

with Lizzie
Kevster 19/Apr Lead dnf

God knows which version of the route I tried. Equally I found no sinker jams. Maybe a rematch another day will sort it out.

with Lizzie
Kevster 19/Apr Lead dnf

God knows which version of the route I tried. Equally I found no sinker jams. Maybe a rematch another day will sort it out.

with Lizzie
Mr Wild 06/Apr 2nd

Took two lobs pulling round the lip, lowered off and Dave lead clean. Seconded to get the gear.

shaunhumphreys 06/Apr Lead dnf

got to the crimp at the top fisrt go but was too boxed! lowered off and then slipped off second try so will have to come back for the smash!

with pete
ned_85 21/Feb Lead dnf
Canyak ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Andy Peak 1 09/Nov/14 Lead

Reversed crux to place more gear:-)

with phill ukc
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead RP
benkelsey 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

in the spitting rain on Rem's gear, felt piss considering the lack of sleep.

rjf106 12/Oct/14 -
with Roger Kirke
dswansonlow 11/Oct/14 2nd RP
keithpeck 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
climberchristy 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Fell off final move (again!) Then repeated clean ground-up. Glad to get this one in the bag! Tough at E2 5c I'd say but utterly brilliant!

with Ben Cole
ian d f 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S

cool route!

pearson9596 05/Oct/14 -
thomasmouse 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Got sequence then midges halted play. Will be back.

Joughton 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Bron H 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
jacobjacob 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 02/Sep/14 Lead dog

Awesome route but pumpy. Struggled finding the jams and the sequence on the onsight - will be back to get this clean!!

Emma Reynolds 02/Sep/14 2nd dog
Ezra_Byrne ?/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't make the jam stick.. will be back..

mrteale 09/Aug/14 Lead dnf
with MrBlond
JasonK 13/Jul/14 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Jams better than expected. Fun route.

Olli-C 13/Jul/14 2nd β
John Jefferies 02/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Alan Segar
willoates 30/Jun/14 Lead β

top roped up to the roof and lead the roof/ crack, tricky.

with James, Chrissy
funsized 26/May/14 Lead O/S


mc fifi 24/May/14 2nd dog
David Sherratt ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Sam Watson 19/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Just could not stick the jam at the top.

JHC 19/Apr/14 Lead dog

Tested the gear a few times

ASchwirtz 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dnf
amccann 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with George Coiley
JakeWShaw 01/Mar/14 2nd dog

Fine until pulling over the lip which was brutal given my average ability to jam!

with Nick
Nick1812P 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
MartinPL 02/Feb/14 Lead RP
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Dan Bates 28/Nov/13 -
barni 19/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Ami
w.pettet-smith 30/Oct/13 -

probably should have done this a couple of yearrs ago, when it would have been the living end! still good though

with ben
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf
sgl0jd 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

Actually surprisingly easy... till the last moves! Took a number attempts at various different combos of cracks before I finally got a sequence that worked.

with Mark
emitto 07/Aug/13 Lead dnf

The start is quite tricky. Did not catch the last hold (right hand jam) right and pinged off the finale with an "exciting" fall - so the gear is bomber!

MikeLeeds 10/Jul/13 Lead RP

At Last! 3rd attempt, it didn't go quietly (I had to shout very loudly to complete the last moves), only just made it. Really pleased.

rpinto 01/Jul/13 2nd dnf
tobydunford 15/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Harry Martin
ianjfsutcliffe 10/May/13 Lead dog

Got it third go after putting it off for years. The first time I've ever celebrated topping out a dogged route. Stoked.

with Courty
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
theotherpetehill ??/2013 Lead dog

Don't remember when exactly

Nick Russell 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Cruised up to the lip, but fell at the last hurdle. I think I have the beta now, just need to get my jamming up to scratch!

MikeLeeds 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

It beat me again. Did a lot better this time though as I had three goes at the crux before I fell off and at least I didnít get concussion this time.

with Wayne Higgins
JRae 17/Oct/12 Lead

Quality. Fucked around a bit but not too bad when you go for it. The jams over the lip are sinkers.

with Liam P
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/12 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 04/Sep/12 Lead
with loundsy
Hannes B 02/Sep/12 2nd
with Magnus, Roald, Tom
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead β
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR dog
martroberts 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely classic struggle!Cruised lower section and found it really hard to move after first jam over roof which I got on the 5th(!) go after down climbing the roof 4 times. Plenty of gear wherever I needed it. Never before have I had to commit so much to jams and really grovel. Would have liked to have finished in fine style but not today. Both ropes jammed in crack as soon as I topped out and had to untie!

WillDoyle 18/Aug/12 2nd dog
Yeknom ?/Jul/12 TR dog
Dibdawg 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf
with Will Twiggers
Jackwd 20/May/12 Lead dnf

Found the climb really nice, unfortunately just couldn't find the sequence to getting over from the roof. Found the rest quite easy.

timmyhobby 28/Jan/12 Lead dnf

didnt finish but had a proper good go, i atembted the start first, was to wet for me,tony then had the first proper go but had to give up leaving gear in, i got another bit of gear thurther up the roof, couldnt get over, tony got so close but fell, my trust in tiny little cams is now greatly increased! definatly going to come back another day!

with Tony
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead
with Andrea Morgan, Tim Hill
admackie ??/2012 -
Andy Peak 1 06/Nov/11 Lead dog

got it when I went onto the corect route and not the E3 6a to the side

with H washbrook
phil64 23/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with nick gillett
J.Wells 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Rosh
Misha 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

A mighty struggle ended with me giving up just a couple of moves away from victory. Those jams are evil! Much swearing provided amusement for the onlookers. Stripped on abseil as no one else fancied it. I will be back...

with Brian
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd rpt
cobweb 15/Oct/11 Lead

Done it at last ! Took 3 goes over the summer , it taunted me in my dreams . Gotcha x

with Roger Waterworth
Shaw Brown 15/Oct/11 2nd
Dave Parton 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
ChrisBrooke 14/Aug/11 Lead RP
with John Inkpen
ChrisBrooke 07/Aug/11 2nd
with Andy Houseman
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
ben.meakin 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hannes B 24/May/11 Lead O/S

gear in place

with Mike, Tom
Hidden 19/Apr/11 TR dnf
samfayers 19/Apr/11 TR dnf
Graeme Hammond 13/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Please to finally get back and lead this many years after being dragged up on 2nd (14/Oct/06). Freezing cold but good friction, tough work. ACE CLIMB :-)

going going gone 03/Apr/11 Lead β


JRae 29/Mar/11 2nd
iamstebarker 29/Mar/11 2nd
crispyboy 19/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with JT
highfivekrissy ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Kim Hayward
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Daniel Heath 16/Oct/10 2nd dog

Awesome. Got it 3rd go. Great effort from Remus on the lead attempt.

with Remus
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
jacobjlloyd 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf

tried to go right at the top, not up the left crack, and missed the good sloper out left altogether (genius..). It was reasonably wet in the top breaks. Jamming made me bleed, and trying to ringlock the flared right crack bruised my fingers painfully. But the truth is, I simply need to get better and come back. http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view_stories/q_is_for_quietus

with John Scarrott
akhughes 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Went OK in fact better than when I was much younger!

with Dan McKinlay
Hidden 10/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
datoon 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead G/U
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
roberto18 28/Jun/10 2nd
with Tom Nickols
cobweb 19/Jun/10 Lead dog

got into finishing cracks, took too long to work out sequece, rested then finally did it on second. have to get it later ;it's going nowhere; Ah , you've heard it all before !

with martyn hopson
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
TomBailey 12/Jun/10 2nd dnf
Gustav 06/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Nils
Tez29 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Bit of a battle but got the bugger.

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
HamishD 13/May/10 Lead dog

Fell off headwall a couple of times before working out the best use of the three cracks.

with Alex
oliverthomp 28/Apr/10 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mark20 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ahab 11/Apr/10 Lead dog
Adam Potter 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Gutted. Got to get back on this. Lead practically the whole thing and placed all the gear. Got tired climbing out to the lip and back and munching may hand in the crack (trying everyones advice but my own!). In the end finished it off as a second.

with Steve Parkin
westaway 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead RP
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 -
kayakmonkey ??/2010 Lead O/S
with laurent
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Chubbard 07/Nov/09 Lead RP

Felt kinda easy this time. Tried it 4 years ago.

feilx 07/Nov/09 Solo rpt
Sgt. Vest 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
with james marjot
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead dog
drcorbasisgod 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
Skinny Kin 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Really struggled to work out how to pull over the final crack(s). Will try again one day when I'm fresh.

with Adrian Anderson
Hidden 14/Jul/09 Lead β
Hidden 11/Jul/09 2nd dog
thomasadixon 08/Jun/09 2nd dog

Got the crux clean but had to rest to get my mate's jammed gear out below the roof, wish I'd gone for the lead instead!

with Mike
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
magic_mice 26/Apr/09 2nd dog

AMAZING moves. The roof was just too pumpy!

with Andrew Gibbon, Alessandro Bau
max_chan 25/Apr/09 2nd dog

Disappointed I didn't give this a better go. Couldn't feel my fingers though and by the time I had a second go at the crux it was pretty wet so Chris basically hauled me through it.

with Chris
Somerset swede basher 21/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with George Taylor
Hidden 08/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead β
koopa ??/2009 TR
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Oli 28/Oct/08 Lead RP

1 fall. Lowered, pulled ropes then clean. Pissed off to not onsight it. I'm blaming it on post snow grease.

figfour 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
sce8 28/Sep/08 TR dog
with George Taylor
Simon Davenport 14/Sep/08 Lead dog

lock off left hand press high into right crack with a finger lock.

with Brian and Dave
lukehunt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead β

My second attempt that day. With preplaced gear. Absolutely awesome route.

with Will
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd
Lev 24/Aug/08 Lead dnf
MikeLeeds 15/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Big head first fall from the jamming cracks, bashed into ledges, good job i had my helmet on; almost there but trying to use the middle crack to make it to the top, should have stayed further left for longer, also need to use shorter quickdraw on the last bit of gear in the roof so i don't fall so far, and have pro for both ropes as near to lip as possible to decrease rope stretch on a fall.

clive-greenwood 15/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Been up there before at the lip about 8 times before i actually did it, jammed it all the way over the lip, thin but bomber jams nontheless. And the top rolls back about 3foot further than i expected, chuffed when i did this. Outstanding.

OffshoreAndy 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S

First Trad of season, First E2

with NCC Kelvin
Ed Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 -
gazhbo ??/2008 Lead G/U
Skell 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Kat
frost ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with D Garry
Mr Sparkle 26/Aug/07 Lead dnf
with Lindsey Pearson
Somerset swede basher 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
with George Taylor
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
kitkat78 27/Jul/07 2nd dnf

Maybe in a few years...

with Dan A
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
fizzy_elephant 07/Apr/07 2nd RP

tried the lead.. fell a few times.. gave up. followed up cleanly.

with Lloyd Betsworth
Nicos 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead
with Chris Wall
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Dave Bond 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 14/Oct/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Ram MkiV 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
redjerry ?/May/06 Lead
with Josh Horniak
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd dnf
with reeeve
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Lead
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
tumbling wizard ??/2006 -
Hidden 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
danfitz ?/Aug/05 TR O/S
andyblain ?/Jul/05 2nd O/S
shark 09/Jun/05 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd dog
Mark Riley ?/Apr/03 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/02 Lead dnf
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 2nd dog
with Dan
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Mar/02 2nd rpt
highlux ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S

Found it hard...

Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/00 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 2nd
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
GeoffG 09/May/99 Lead
Ben C ??/1999 -
goi.ashmore 01/Nov/97 Lead O/S

In freezing fog. The belayer (Alice) couldn't see me!

with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
sadams 26/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/97 Lead
jameshiggins ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1996 -
Roget 29/Oct/95 Lead RP

one of my boggey routes

nai ??/1995 Lead
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/May/94 2nd O/S
with mik
ste_d 03/May/93 2nd dog
with mik
JSA ??/1992 -
Tim M ??/1992 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 19/May/91 Lead O/S
with KM
JSA ??/1991 -
Ian Jones ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Rich Lewis
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 02/Aug/89 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/89 -
Hidden 30/Oct/88 Lead
Nick Biven ?/May/88 Lead O/S

A hot day, very nearly greased out of the twin cracks

shark 06/Jun/87 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 29/Jun/86 Lead dog
Mike Owen 11/Oct/85 -
with Graham Lipp
Hidden 29/Jun/85 2nd
Bruce Kerr 10/Apr/85 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
Bulls Crack ??/1985 Lead O/S

thin hands helped I think!

with AM
charlesmfrench 07/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 27/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Frank Wilkinson, Andy Wild
TonyF 01/May/84 Lead rpt
with Martin Lancaster, Tony Cox
stp 20/Jun/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 07/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
steve L 29/May/82 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
uphillnow 18/Aug/81 Lead O/S

After a day on limestone (Staden) Pog asked if we could stop to do a route at Stanage. When we arrived he pointed me at it - he new I wanted to do it and without having time to think about it I did it (my birthday, his present to me) Found it straightforward - tried it 2 months later and had to rest on crux.

with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Hidden ??/1981 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1980 -
timbanton ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1979 2nd
with Mick Hardwick
Mark Kemball 28/Aug/77 Lead dnf
with Paul Clark
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
mikej 13/Jul/69 TR
with John Bickerdyke
Exodus ??/0000 Lead O/S
with Steve A
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 74
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set