Derbyshire > Stanage High Neb >
 
Quietus*** E2 5c

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Quietus Middle Leg >>
[Hanging around on Quietus, 1 kb]14m. A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb the shallow groove direct to ledges below the roof. Place secure runners (so they won't get kicked out) then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established on the head-wall is the crux, the best combination of the trio of cracks takes a bit of working out. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: Hanging around on Quietus © Tim Dorsett
View all 54 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 232 logbooks, and on 195 wishlists.

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Claire Duffield

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 29/Mar/14

amccann - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14 with George Coiley

Marcin78 - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Paul Ingate

Fine until pulling over the lip which was brutal given my average ability to jam!
JakeWShaw - 2nd dog - 01/Mar/14 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Jake Shaw

MartinPL - Lead RP - 02/Feb/14

Dan Bates - 28/Nov/13

barni - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/13 with Ami

probably should have done this a couple of yearrs ago, when it would have been the living end! still good though
w.pettet-smith - 30/Oct/13 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/13

sgl0jd - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13

Actually surprisingly easy... till the last moves! Took a number attempts at various different combos of cracks before I finally got a sequence that worked.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 31/Aug/13 with Mark

The start is quite tricky. Did not catch the last hold (right hand jam) right and pinged off the finale with an "exciting" fall - so the gear is bomber!
emitto - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/13

At Last! 3rd attempt, it didn't go quietly (I had to shout very loudly to complete the last moves), only just made it. Really pleased.
MikeLeeds - Lead RP - 10/Jul/13 with Clive Greenwood

rpinto - 2nd dnf - 01/Jul/13

tobydunford - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/13 with Harry Martin

Got it third go after putting it off for years. The first time I've ever celebrated topping out a dogged route. Stoked.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dog - 10/May/13 with Courty

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Cruised up to the lip, but fell at the last hurdle. I think I have the beta now, just need to get my jamming up to scratch!
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 27/Oct/12 with Alastair Begley

It beat me again. Did a lot better this time though as I had three goes at the crux before I fell off and at least I didnít get concussion this time.
MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/12 with Wayne Higgins

Quality. Fucked around a bit but not too bad when you go for it. The jams over the lip are sinkers.
JRae - Lead - 17/Oct/12 with Liam P

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/12

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 04/Sep/12 with loundsy

Hannes B - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Magnus, Roald, Tom

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - TR dog - 26/Aug/12

Absolutely classic struggle!Cruised lower section and found it really hard to move after first jam over roof which I got on the 5th(!) go after down climbing the roof 4 times. Plenty of gear wherever I needed it. Never before have I had to commit so much to jams and really grovel. Would have liked to have finished in fine style but not today. Both ropes jammed in crack as soon as I topped out and had to untie!
martroberts - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

WillDoyle - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/12

Yeknom - TR dog - Jul/12

Dibdawg - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/12 with Will Twiggers

Found the climb really nice, unfortunately just couldn't find the sequence to getting over from the roof. Found the rest quite easy.
Jackwd - Lead dnf - 20/May/12

didnt finish but had a proper good go, i atembted the start first, was to wet for me,tony then had the first proper go but had to give up leaving gear in, i got another bit of gear thurther up the roof, couldnt get over, tony got so close but fell, my trust in tiny little cams is now greatly increased! definatly going to come back another day!
timmyhobby - Lead dnf - 28/Jan/12 with Tony

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 2012

admackie - 2012

got it when I went onto the corect route and not the E3 6a to the side
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dog - 06/Nov/11 with H washbrook

phil64 - 2nd rpt - 23/Oct/11 with nick gillett

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Jasmine Taplin

Matt Cooke - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/11 with Rosh

A mighty struggle ended with me giving up just a couple of moves away from victory. Those jams are evil! Much swearing provided amusement for the onlookers. Stripped on abseil as no one else fancied it. I will be back...
Misha - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/11 with Brian

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Oct/11

Done it at last ! Took 3 goes over the summer , it taunted me in my dreams . Gotcha x
cobweb - Lead - 15/Oct/11 with Roger Waterworth

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with George North

Dave Parton - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Ben

ChrisBrooke - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11 with John Inkpen

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 07/Aug/11 with Andy Houseman

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Ben Meakin

Hidden - TR - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/11

gear in place
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Mike, Tom

Hidden - TR dnf - 19/Apr/11

samfayers - TR dnf - 19/Apr/11

Please to finally get back and lead this many years after being dragged up on 2nd (14/Oct/06). Freezing cold but good friction, tough work. ACE CLIMB :-)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/11 with james pcc, Richard

hard
going going gone - Lead β - 03/Apr/11

JRae - 2nd - 29/Mar/11 with M Watson

iamstebarker - 2nd - 29/Mar/11

crispyboy - Lead dnf - 19/Mar/11 with JT

highfivekrissy - 2nd - Mar/11 with Kim Hayward

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Gareth H - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/10

Awesome. Got it 3rd go. Great effort from Remus on the lead attempt.
Daniel Heath - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Remus

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/10

tried to go right at the top, not up the left crack, and missed the good sloper out left altogether (genius..). It was reasonably wet in the top breaks. Jamming made me bleed, and trying to ringlock the flared right crack bruised my fingers painfully. But the truth is, I simply need to get better and come back. http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view_stories/q_is_for_quietus
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 09/Oct/10 with John Scarrott

akhughes - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10

Went OK in fact better than when I was much younger!
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10 with Dan McKinlay

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/10

datoon - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with S

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - Jul/10

roberto18 - 2nd - 28/Jun/10 with Tom Nickols

got into finishing cracks, took too long to work out sequece, rested then finally did it on second. have to get it later ;it's going nowhere; Ah , you've heard it all before !
cobweb - Lead dog - 19/Jun/10 with martyn hopson

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10

TomBailey - 2nd dnf - 12/Jun/10

Gustav - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/10 with Nils

Bit of a battle but got the bugger.
Tez29 - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Todd, Tom, Ivan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Fell off headwall a couple of times before working out the best use of the three cracks.
HamishD - Lead dog - 13/May/10 with Alex

oliverthomp - 2nd - 28/Apr/10 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Ahab - Lead dog - 11/Apr/10

Gutted. Got to get back on this. Lead practically the whole thing and placed all the gear. Got tired climbing out to the lip and back and munching may hand in the crack (trying everyones advice but my own!). In the end finished it off as a second.
Adam Potter - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/10 with Steve Parkin

westaway - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

Ground Up ascent.
CJEFF - Lead RP - 21/Mar/10 with John Williams

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - 2010

kayakmonkey - Lead O/S - 2010 with laurent

Felt kinda easy this time. Tried it 4 years ago.
Chubbard - Lead RP - 07/Nov/09 with J Robinson

feilx - Solo rpt - 07/Nov/09

Sgt. Vest - Lead dog - 31/Oct/09 with james marjot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Sep/09

drcorbasisgod - Lead RP - 22/Aug/09

Really struggled to work out how to pull over the final crack(s). Will try again one day when I'm fresh.
Skinny Kin - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/09 with Adrian Anderson

will6459 - Lead β - 14/Jul/09 with Dave Mason

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/09

Got the crux clean but had to rest to get my mate's jammed gear out below the roof, wish I'd gone for the lead instead!
thomasadixon - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/09 with Mike

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/May/09

AMAZING moves. The roof was just too pumpy!
magic_mice - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/09 with Andrew Gibbon, Alessandro Bau

Disappointed I didn't give this a better go. Couldn't feel my fingers though and by the time I had a second go at the crux it was pretty wet so Chris basically hauled me through it.
max_chan - 2nd dnf - 25/Apr/09 with Chris

Somerset swede basher - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/09 with George Taylor

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/09

koopa - TR - 2009

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Oct/08

figfour - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

sce8 - TR dog - 28/Sep/08 with George Taylor

lock off left hand press high into right crack with a finger lock.
middle aged slob - Lead dog - 14/Sep/08 with Brian and Dave

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

My second attempt that day. With preplaced gear. Absolutely awesome route.
tommytuffa - Lead β - 13/Sep/08 with Will

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/08

Lev - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/08 with Emma Ross

Big head first fall from the jamming cracks, bashed into ledges, good job i had my helmet on; almost there but trying to use the middle crack to make it to the top, should have stayed further left for longer, also need to use shorter quickdraw on the last bit of gear in the roof so i don't fall so far, and have pro for both ropes as near to lip as possible to decrease rope stretch on a fall.
MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - 2nd - 15/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

John Roberts (JR) - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Chris Lockyer

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/May/08

Been up there before at the lip about 8 times before i actually did it, jammed it all the way over the lip, thin but bomber jams nontheless. And the top rolls back about 3foot further than i expected, chuffed when i did this. Outstanding.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with andy gravestock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

Skell - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07 with Kat

frost - Lead β - Sep/07 with D Garry

Mr Sparkle - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/07 with Lindsey Pearson

Somerset swede basher - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07 with George Taylor

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Aug/07

Maybe in a few years...
kitkat78 - 2nd dnf - 27/Jul/07 with Dan A

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/07

tried the lead.. fell a few times.. gave up. followed up cleanly.
fizzy_elephant - 2nd RP - 07/Apr/07 with Lloyd Betsworth

Nicos - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with rich howels

Apharri - Lead O/S - Feb/07 with Dave Wharton

Pete Graham - Lead - 2007 with Chris Wall

Toby Dunn - 2007

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06 with Tim Banton

tumbling wizard - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/06

Graeme Hammond - 2nd dog - 14/Oct/06 with Ben Freeman

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Aug/06

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

redjerry - Lead - May/06 with Josh Horniak

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Jon Greengrass - 2nd dnf - 2006 with reeeve

oldmanrivers - Lead - 2006

Neil Adams - 2006

Bern - 2006

tumbling wizard - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05

dannyboy83 - Lead RP - Oct/05

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/05

danfitz - TR O/S - Aug/05

andyblain - 2nd O/S - Jul/05

shark - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/05 with Jon Barton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

1 pt rest. Very hard to work out the correct sequence while hanging around upside down on poor holds!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead dog - Jul/03

I don't know if I would have seconded this clean - I had to deal with a stuck cam right at the crux, which gave me an excellent excuse to rest ;)
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd dog - Jun/03 with Geraldine Taylor

Mark Riley - Lead dog - Apr/03 with Tom Greenall

mark s - Lead O/S - 2003 with andi t

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/02

Hidden - 2nd dog - Sep/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd rpt - 24/Mar/02 with Joe le Sage

Found it hard...
highlux - Lead O/S - Mar/02

Hidden - 2nd - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/00

tlr - 2nd - 2000

jonka - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Ben C - 1999

In freezing fog. The belayer (Alice) couldn't see me!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/97 with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas

sadams - Lead - 26/Oct/97 with Hugh Cottom

ChrisJD - Lead - 12/Oct/97

cam1401 - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Colin

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/97

jameshiggins - 1997

Hidden - 1996

one of my boggey routes
Roget - Lead RP - 29/Oct/95

nai - Lead - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/May/94 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/May/94 with mik

ste_d - 2nd dog - 03/May/93 with mik

JSA - 1992

Tim M - Lead dnf - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/91

JSA - 1991

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1991 with Rich Lewis

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/90 with Jim Waddington

keefe - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Aug/89

Hidden - Jun/89

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/88

shark - Lead - 06/Jun/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jun/86

Mike Owen - 11/Oct/85 with Graham Lipp

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/85

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 10/Apr/85 with Dave Simmonds

thin hands helped I think!
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1985 with AM

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/84

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/84 with Frank Wilkinson, Andy Wild

stp - Lead - 20/Jun/83

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/May/83 with Paul Clark

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1982

After a day on limestone (Staden) Pog asked if we could stop to do a route at Stannage. When we arrived he pointed me at it - he new I wanted to do it and without having time to think about it I did it (my birthday, his present) Found it straightforward - tried it 2 months later and had to rest.
David Smith - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/81 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1981

andy gittins - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/77 with Paul Clark

Hidden - 1973

mikej - TR - 13/Jul/69 with John Bickerdyke

Exodus - Lead O/S - 0000 with Steve A

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Voting
Total votes cast 192
hard E30 of 66
E30 of 66
easy E319 of 66
hard E217 of 66
E230 of 66
easy E20 of 66
hard E10 of 66
E10 of 66
easy E10 of 66
hard 6a0 of 66
6a1 of 66
easy 6a14 of 66
hard 5c20 of 66
5c30 of 66
easy 5c1 of 66
hard 5b0 of 66
5b0 of 66
easy 5b0 of 66
3 Stars57 of 60
2 Stars3 of 60
1 Star0 of 60
0 Stars0 of 60
Bag of .....0 of 60
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 232 (0.9%)
Lead139 of 232 (59.9%)
Followed43 of 232 (18.5%)
Toproped9 of 232 (3.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 232 (0.9%)
Unknown37 of 232 (15.9%)

'Climbed'79 of 232 (34.1%)
clean O/S60 of 232 (25.9%)
clean β6 of 232 (2.6%)
clean rpt12 of 232 (5.2%)
clean RP10 of 232 (4.3%)
dogged30 of 232 (12.9%)
dnf35 of 232 (15.1%)