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These details were last updated on 03/Jan/2012

Castle Inn Quarry

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 54 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
16 kph

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
14 °C
29 kph

1.6mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
23 kph

1.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
16 kph

0.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 TIGER LILY WALL  
2open your legs6b *93
3Lili Marlene5+ 96
4Lili Marlene direct6b 30
5Alone with the moon5 98
6Alone with the moon - right of the bolts6a 33
7Ice Cream and Candyfloss5 98
 OPERA WALL  
9Madam Butterfly4+ 32
10One Fine Day3 33
11TRF4 31
 FINE VIEW WALL  
13Easy Peasy3 44
14comeback kid4 *78
15indian summer6a+ **256
16Mynydd MarianVS 4c *89
17as you like it6b+ **79
18Pioneer CracksE1 5b *42
19The walking furnaceE3 5c *23
20Happy Return4+ **48
 THE MAIN FACE  
22Mogadishu4+ 440
23More than this6a 180
24The Outsider6c 101
25Finale5 488
26School Mam6a *541
27School Mam with original start6b *23
28Cakewalk Direct6c **238
29The Cakewalk6b+ **340
30Route 36c ***371
31Route 26a **900
 Climb nameGradex
32Route 15 **964
33Cross Winds6c+ *83
34Driving the Dumper6c *56
35Solid 67a 24
36Fuel Injected7b+ *12
37Secret Garden6c *41
38Green Fingers6b 62
39Love Your BelayerS 4a 3
40Vienna6c 6
41Cross Roads6c 3
42Left hand crackVD 2
43Right hand crackS 2
44Conan The Libertarian6a 95
45October Premiere5+ 112
46Initiation3 26
 THE LOST WORLD  
48Cariad - Zimba4+ 136
49Nain4 217
50Ffrind4 *230
51Taid4 231
52Hidden Gem4 140
53Mynydd MarionS *5
 WILDERNESS WALL  
55Wilderness Wall5 *192
56Butterfly Blue4 155
57Birthday Boy5 *132
58Inspiration4 143
 BANTAM WALL  
60Appenzeller5+ 126
61Smartie5+ 135
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Access notes
From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13

3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12

Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12

Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12

Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11

Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11

A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04