Climbs 56
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

My 1st outdoor climb © TraverseKing

Crag features

There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes

From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
Was there a few weeks ago and there are a couple of loose holds on Taid a move or two below the lower off. A couple have chalk crosses on but they might have washed off by now.
Murfle - 01/Sep/16
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Tiger Lily Wall 
2Neoteric-GenS 4
3open your legs6b *161
4Lili Marlene5c 172
5Lili Marlene direct
6b 67
6Alone with the moon5a 191
7Alone with the moon - right of the bolts
6a 77
8Ice Cream and Candyfloss5c 185
 Opera Wall 
10Madam Butterfly4c 100
11One Fine Day3 108
12TRF4a 97
14Easy Peasy3 163
15comeback kid4a 249
16indian summer6a+ *473
17Mynydd MarianVS 4c *154
18as you like it6b+ *128
19Pioneer CracksE1 5b *75
20The walking furnaceE3 5c *33
21Happy Return4c **109
23Mogadishu4c *749
24More than this6a 280
25The Outsider6c 136
26Finale5a 704
27School Mam6a *775
28School Mam with original start6b *49
29Cakewalk Direct6c **333
30The Cakewalk6b+ **526
31Route 36c ***561
32Route 26a **1371
33Route 15a ***1568
34Cross Winds6c+ **134
35Driving the Dumper6c+ *72
36Solid 67a 31
37Fuel Injected7b+ *14
38Secret Garden6c+ *57
39Green Fingers6b 84
40Love Your BelayerS 4a 4
6c 6
42Cross Roads
6c 3
43Left hand crackVD 4
44Right hand crackS 6
45Conan The Libertarian
6a 151
46October Premiere
5c 187
47Initiation3 58
 The Lost World 
49Cariad - Zimba4c 307
4a 466
4a *514
52Taid4a 519
53Hidden Gem4a 305
54Mynydd MarionS *22
 Wilderness Wall 
56Wilderness Wall5a *407
57Butterfly Blue4a 345
58Birthday Boy5a *272
59Inspiration4a 307
 Bantam Wall 
61Appenzeller5c 253
62Smartie5c 262
63Roots Bloody Roots *f6A+ ***2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows