Castle Inn Quarry

Climbs 56 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Access notes
From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 TIGER LILY WALL 
2open your legs6b *
3Lili Marlene5c
4Lili Marlene direct6b
5Alone with the moon5a
6Alone with the moon - right of the bolts6a
7Ice Cream and Candyfloss5a
 OPERA WALL 
9Madam Butterfly4c
10One Fine Day3
11TRF4a
 FINE VIEW WALL 
13Easy Peasy3
14comeback kid4a *
15indian summer6a+ **
16Mynydd MarianVS 4c *
17as you like it6b+ **
18Pioneer CracksE1 5b *
19The walking furnaceE3 5c *
20Happy Return4c **
 THE MAIN FACE 
22Mogadishu4c
23More than this6a
24The Outsider6c
25Finale5a
26School Mam6a *
27School Mam with original start6b *
28Cakewalk Direct6c **
29The Cakewalk6b+ **
30Route 36c ***
31Route 26a **
32Route 15a **
33Cross Winds6c+ *
34Driving the Dumper6c *
35Solid 67a
36Fuel Injected7b+ *
37Secret Garden6c *
38Green Fingers6b
39Love Your BelayerS 4a
40Vienna6c
41Cross Roads6c
42Left hand crackVD
43Right hand crackS
44Conan The Libertarian6a
45October Premiere5c
46Initiation3
 THE LOST WORLD 
48Cariad - Zimba4c
49Nain4a
50Ffrind4a *
51Taid4a
52Hidden Gem4a
53Mynydd MarionS *
 WILDERNESS WALL 
55Wilderness Wall5a *
56Butterfly Blue4a
57Birthday Boy5a *
58Inspiration4a
 BANTAM WALL 
60Appenzeller5c
61Smartie5c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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These details were last updated on 28/Sep/2014

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