Castle Inn Quarry

Climbs 56 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes
From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011),
Out of print: A55 Sport Climbs (2010), North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2open your legs6b *137
3Lili Marlene5c 138
4Lili Marlene direct6b 50
5Alone with the moon5a 154
6Alone with the moon - right of the bolts6a 61
7Ice Cream and Candyfloss5c 148
9Madam Butterfly4c 64
10One Fine Day3 75
11TRF4a 69
13Easy Peasy3 105
14comeback kid4a 163
15indian summer6a+ *368
16Mynydd MarianVS 4c *130
17as you like it6b+ *105
18Pioneer CracksE1 5b *59
19The walking furnaceE3 5c *30
20Happy Return4c **77
22Mogadishu4c *608
23More than this6a 235
24The Outsider6c 118
25Finale5a 596
26School Mam6a *661
27School Mam with original start6b *40
28Cakewalk Direct6c **292
29The Cakewalk6b+ **444
30Route 36c ***473
31Route 26a **1153
32Route 15a ***1270
33Cross Winds6c+ **116
34Driving the Dumper6c+ *68
35Solid 67a 30
36Fuel Injected7b+ *14
37Secret Garden6c+ *50
38Green Fingers6b 77
39Love Your BelayerS 4a 4
40Vienna6c 6
41Cross Roads6c 3
42Left hand crackVD 3
43Right hand crackS 5
44Conan The Libertarian6a 121
45October Premiere5c 154
46Initiation3 39
48Cariad - Zimba4c 213
49Nain4a 340
50Ffrind4a *366
51Taid4a 368
52Hidden Gem4a 231
53Mynydd MarionS *11
55Wilderness Wall5a *310
56Butterfly Blue4a 256
57Birthday Boy5a *206
58Inspiration4a 224
60Appenzeller5c 191
61Smartie5c 196
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04