Castle Inn Quarry

Climbs 56 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
There is no ‘roadside’ crag more roadside than this one! The main face at Castle Inn is a slabby wall with many fine routes on natural rock which has stood the test of time without becoming unduly polished.

In 1991 the crag was bolted up to make a sport venue but this provoked outrage in certain quarters and the bolts were removed. However, after the intervention of several people, including Colin Goodey one of the crags original developers in the 1950s, all the removed gear was replaced with resin-bolts to leave it as it is today.

The pub is now closed and is a private residence.

In 2008 the obvious wall 50 yards to the left of the main crag was developed. It relinquished 5 excellent routes (2 sport, 3 trad) on superb, rough rock and was named Fine View Wall.

In 2011 a number of small slabby walls were developed (mostly by Colin Goodey again) offering many much needed lower grade sport climbs and resulting in Castle Inn becoming a complex of crags.

Approach notes
From the east (chester) come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (JCN23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then left towards Old Colwyn(A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the cliff on the left as you approach).

From the west, come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (JCN22). Turn right under the bridge and turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas/Abergele (A547). After 1.5 miles and after the crest of the hill, turn right onto Highlands Road and after 0.4 miles fork right into Tan y Craig road (between 2 limestone walls). After another 0.4 miles turn left into the car park (you can see the crag on the left as you approach).

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011),
Out of print: A55 Sport Climbs (2010), North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Neoteric-GenS 3
3open your legs6b *138
4Lili Marlene5c 142
5Lili Marlene direct6b 53
6Alone with the moon5a 157
7Alone with the moon - right of the bolts6a 61
8Ice Cream and Candyfloss5c 150
10Madam Butterfly4c 66
11One Fine Day3 77
12TRF4a 71
14Easy Peasy3 109
15comeback kid4a 169
16indian summer6a+ *376
17Mynydd MarianVS 4c *131
18as you like it6b+ *105
19Pioneer CracksE1 5b *59
20The walking furnaceE3 5c *31
21Happy Return4c **82
23Mogadishu4c *616
24More than this6a 239
25The Outsider6c 120
26Finale5a 603
27School Mam6a *664
28School Mam with original start6b *42
29Cakewalk Direct6c **296
30The Cakewalk6b+ **450
31Route 36c ***478
32Route 26a **1168
33Route 15a ***1288
34Cross Winds6c+ **117
35Driving the Dumper6c+ *68
36Solid 67a 30
37Fuel Injected7b+ *14
38Secret Garden6c+ *53
39Green Fingers6b 79
40Love Your BelayerS 4a 4
41Vienna6c 6
42Cross Roads6c 3
43Left hand crackVD 3
44Right hand crackS 5
45Conan The Libertarian6a 122
46October Premiere5c 155
47Initiation3 41
49Cariad - Zimba4c 218
50Nain4a 350
51Ffrind4a *375
52Taid4a 379
53Hidden Gem4a 235
54Mynydd MarionS *11
56Wilderness Wall5a *317
57Butterfly Blue4a 265
58Birthday Boy5a *210
59Inspiration4a 234
61Appenzeller5c 197
62Smartie5c 202
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04