A brand new sports climbing development providing low to mid-grade routes close to Taffs Well Main with a few harder lines proposed in the near future. The sun currently enters the quarry at around 10am. There is some seepage at the quarry although its behaviour has been observed to be independent of that at Taffs Well Main and may be climbable when Taffs Well Main is not.
The crag is currently under development and a few of the lines have been bolted but have not yet been climbed. It would be appreciated if these routes could be left alone until the first ascensionist has had a chance to lead them properly!
Best approached from below, park as for Taffs Well Main and follow the track to the right, past some stone steps on your left and soon after a small valley appears on your left, with Castell Coch at its top. Follow this valley (easiest on the right hand side) to a quarry. A large overlap lies on the left of the quarry with easier slabs to the right. A low profile should be maintained.
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
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