Castle Quarry

Climbs 14 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 94m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A brand new sports climbing development providing low to mid-grade routes close to Taffs Well Main with a few harder lines proposed in the near future. The sun currently enters the quarry at around 10am. There is some seepage at the quarry although its behaviour has been observed to be independent of that at Taffs Well Main and may be climbable when Taffs Well Main is not.

The crag is currently under development and a few of the lines have been bolted but have not yet been climbed. It would be appreciated if these routes could be left alone until the first ascensionist has had a chance to lead them properly!

Access notes
Best approached from below, park as for Taffs Well Main and follow the track to the right, past some stone steps on your left and soon after a small valley appears on your left, with Castell Coch at its top. Follow this valley (easiest on the right hand side) to a quarry. A large overlap lies on the left of the quarry with easier slabs to the right. A low profile should be maintained.

Guidebooks
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

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Headed up here last week. Crag is looking good, although some of the routes need to be cleaned up obviously hasn't had much traffic. Smells great, very strong wild garlic covering any nasty odours. Well worth a quick trip. Cheers.
hdjc90 - 27/May/13
the crag is in pretty good nick atm (spring 2012) im guessing due to the dry and warm winter meaning the sewage hasnt overflowed into it and seapage has been minimal. also the lack of tree foliage means that it is a sun trap all day in the current good weather we are experiencing. there is less loose rock and dirt than the other taffs well crags currently. it is hard to work out which route is which as there are more bolts than listed climbs, so an updated route list is needed.
Webster - 02/Apr/12
The smell is still here, but it's mainly coming from an area approaching the crag and you can only smell it now and then on the right hand side of the wall. The routes are a llittle dirty and slippery, but I guess with a little more traffic they could scrub up better. Best to get here early, as we got ot the crag early morning and the smell was not that bad, but was awful a couple of hours later when we were leaving. Definitely some sort of sewage smell possibly from the castle above.
bon - 02/Oct/11
Bit dirty, bit of a smell and a bit loose in places. With more traffic this crag will probably be just as rubbish. OK for a one of visit if you're in the area but nothing impressive.
James_86 - 04/May/11
There was a smell but only occasionally and not as bad as it had been made out to be
toby.pearce - 24/Mar/11
is that smell still there?
Laurent Moseley - 06/Jan/11
been to crag today and left after one route the stench was terrible!
ross duffield - 12/Aug/10
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 14/Aug/2013
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