Climbs 84
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 49m a.s.l
Faces NW

The things we do to avoid the rain... © JHC

Crag features

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)
2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)
3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)
4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)
5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Approach notes

Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

Access Advice

There have been a number of complaints from local residents regarding climbers parking and creating obstructions to local residents along Fordd Newydd/New Road; climbers are advised especially to not park close to or opposite any drives or gateways.

If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite
Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA)  or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall on the outskirts of the village, just past the Valentines Pub.

Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Tower 
2The Soft Exit
-
6b+ 11
3Seriously Rocking
-
7a *17
4Norma the Bitch
-
7a *14
5Tenacious T7b **7
6Resist the Race
-
7a+ **18
7Big Kahoona Burger
-
7c **5
8Vegas Nights
-
6c+ ***39
9Squeaky and the Growler
-
6c+ *4
10Misfits6a+ *19
 Golf ball wall 
12Penblwydd Hapus
-
6a 20
13The golf ball enigma
-
6c *3
14Off with their heads
-
7a+ 5
15Rageh Omaar
-
6b 10
16Hole in one
-
6a *19
17Whisper
-
6b+ 5
18Turtle in trouble
-
6b+ *9
19Tea party
-
6b 4
20Mad hatter - left of bolts6b **4
21Mad Hatter
-
6a *18
 KO wall 
23Two Cs in a KO
-
6c 1
24What man would
-
7b 1
25Free the Bont
-
5c 27
26Elizabeth Taylor
-
5c 19
27Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon
-
6a 14
 Main Cave 
29Lemon Crunch
-
5a 92
30karmic wind6a+ 116
61grog and the donkey
-
6b+ 16
62afterglow6b **31
63Turtle Tripler
-
6a+ 18
 forgotten sun 
65Too Point ZeroS 4a 6
66White man's burden6b *104
67Ralarwdins
-
6b+ ***169
68Tony Stud
-
7b 8
69Stretcharmstrong
-
6c+ *44
70The Man with the Indiarubber Head
-
6a *162
71Udder Head
-
6a *164
72Name of the Pose
-
6a+ *110
73Clipterfyn5c 144
74Poet Lariat
-
6a+ 85
75Not Runout Groove
-
6a 92
76Runout Groove
-
6b 43
77Field of Dreams
-
6b+ *64
78The portcullis
-
V6  
79Unnamed Boulder Problem
-
V3  
80Construction of Meaning7a 14
81Crack of Dawn
-
6b *37
82Gone Down Under7b  
83Prime the Pump
-
7b **36
84Pump Action7a *31
85Trail of the Snail
-
6b+ *19
86Forgotten Sun
-
6b+ 39
87A brief history of lime6c 17
88Duckworth Lewis
-
6b+ 12
89Milo
-
6b 18

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