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These details were last updated on 25/Nov/2013

Llanddulas Cave

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 79 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 49m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
November 13 NOTE: Parking problems at this crag. Please see access notes below.

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)

2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)

3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)

4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)

5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
22 kph

10.8mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
25 kph

1.8mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
32 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE TOWER  
2The Soft Exit6b+ 8
3Seriously Rocking7a *12
4Norma the Bitch7a *11
5Tenacious T7b+ **1
6Resist the Race7b **10
7Big Kahoona Burger7c **4
8Vegas Nights6c+ ***27
9Squeaky and the Growler6c+ *2
10Misfits6a+ *14
 GOLF BALL WALL  
12Penblwydd Hapus6a 15
13The golf ball enigma6c *3
14Off with their heads7a+ 4
15Rageh Omaar6b 7
16Hole in one6a *14
17Whisper6b+ 5
18Turtle in trouble6b+ *6
19Tea party6b 3
20Mad hatter - left of bolts6b **4
21Mad Hatter6a *13
 KO WALL  
23Two Cs in a KO6c  
24What man would7b 1
25Free the Bont5+ 22
26Elizabeth Taylor5+ 17
27Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon6a 13
 MAIN CAVE  
29Lemon Crunch5 62
30karmic wind6a+ 87
31Karmic Wind Direct6b 11
32mind light6a+ 75
33spider mite6b 62
34Llanddulas Ditchwater6c 23
35I pee freely6b+ 4
36early bird6b 10
37Wooton Basset6b+ 1
38Upside Doom7c *3
39Main OverhangA2 4
40Temple of Gloom8b 3
41The Last Crusade8a+ **2
42Lord Nibbler6b 3
 Climb nameGradex
43Guano on sight6a+ *100
44Adolescent Stimuli6b *31
45Rosalind Franklin's picture 515 69
46Zoidburg6c **21
47Doomside Up7a 30
48The Wirral Whip7c+ *14
49Nanabozho8a *2
50Mudjekeewis7b+ **39
51Pearl from the Shell6c+ 94
52sticky fingers7b+ 16
53Searching6c+ *35
54El Tigre7b 36
55PC wimpout6a+ 87
56grog and the donkey6b+ 16
57afterglow6b **29
58Turtle Tripler6a+ 16
 FORGOTTEN SUN  
60Too Point ZeroS 4a 5
61White man's burden6b *76
62Ralarwdins6b+ ***136
63Tony Stud7b 5
64Stretcharmstrong6c+ *33
65The Man with the Indiarubber Head6a *129
66Udder Head6a *133
67Name of the Pose6a+ *88
68Clipterfyn5+ 110
69Poet Lariat6a+ 66
70Not Runout Groove6a 73
71Runout Groove6b 26
72Field of Dreams6b+ *47
73The portcullisV6  
74Unnamed Boulder ProblemV3  
75Construction of Meaning7a 9
76Crack of Dawn6b *23
77Gone Down Under7b  
78Prime the Pump7b **28
79Pump Action7a *24
80Trail of the Snail6b+ *15
81Forgotten Sun6b+ 29
82A brief history of lime6c 12
83Duckworth Lewis6b+ 9
84Milo6b 10
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Access notes
Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

NOV 13 UPDATE - Residents on Ffordd Newydd/New Road have been complaining about climbers and walkers parking insensitively on this road. Please ensure that you park carefully, being sure not to inconvenience local residents; especially do not park close to, or opposite any drives or gateways. If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA) or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the Llanddulas village hall.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12

Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09

I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08

majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04

What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04