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These details were last updated on 02/May/2014

Llanddulas Cave

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 49m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
November 13 NOTE: Parking problems at this crag. Please see access notes below.

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)

2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)

3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)

4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)

5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Access notes
Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

NOV 13 UPDATE - Residents on Ffordd Newydd/New Road have been complaining about climbers and walkers parking insensitively on this road. Please ensure that you park carefully, being sure not to inconvenience local residents; especially do not park close to, or opposite any drives or gateways. If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA) or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the Llanddulas village hall.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

3.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
21 kph

1.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
19 kph

0.8mm rain
18 °C
15 kph

3.3mm rain
16 °C
16 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: Met Office: Snowdonia

A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2The Soft Exit6b+ 9
3Seriously Rocking7a *16
4Norma the Bitch7a *13
5Tenacious T7b+ **2
6Resist the Race7b **12
7Big Kahoona Burger7c **4
8Vegas Nights6c+ ***30
9Squeaky and the Growler6c+ *2
10Misfits6a+ *15
12Penblwydd Hapus6a 17
13The golf ball enigma6c *3
14Off with their heads7a+ 4
15Rageh Omaar6b 8
16Hole in one6a *16
17Whisper6b+ 5
18Turtle in trouble6b+ *8
19Tea party6b 4
20Mad hatter - left of bolts6b **4
21Mad Hatter6a *15
23Two Cs in a KO6c  
24What man would7b 1
25Free the Bont5c 23
26Elizabeth Taylor5c 17
27Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon6a 13
29Lemon Crunch5a 72
30karmic wind6a+ 98
31Karmic Wind Direct6b 13
32mind light6a+ 85
33spider mite6b 70
34Llanddulas Ditchwater6c 26
35I pee freely6b+ 4
36Early Bird6b 11
37Wooton Basset6b+ 4
38Upside Doom7c *3
39Main OverhangA2 4
40Temple of Gloom8b 3
41The Last Crusade8a+ **2
42Lord Nibbler6b 3
43Guano on sight6a+ *103
 Climb nameGradex
44Adolescent Stimuli6b *32
45Rosalind Franklin's picture 515a 70
46Zoidburg6c **25
47Doomside Up7a 34
48The Wirral Whip7c+ *17
49Nanabozho8a *2
50Mudjekeewis7b+ **46
51Pearl from the Shell6c+ 109
52sticky fingers7b+ 18
53Searching6c+ *49
54El Tigre7b 44
55PC wimpout6a+ 89
56grog and the donkey6b+ 16
57afterglow6b **29
58Turtle Tripler6a+ 16
60Too Point ZeroS 4a 5
61White man's burden6b *87
62Ralarwdins6b+ ***146
63Tony Stud7b 6
64Stretcharmstrong6c+ *40
65The Man with the Indiarubber Head6a *137
66Udder Head6a *140
67Name of the Pose6a+ *94
68Clipterfyn5c 119
69Poet Lariat6a+ 73
70Not Runout Groove6a 82
71Runout Groove6b 30
72Field of Dreams6b+ *56
73The portcullisV6  
74Unnamed Boulder ProblemV3  
75Construction of Meaning7a 12
76Crack of Dawn6b *31
77Gone Down Under7b  
78Prime the Pump7b **32
79Pump Action7a *29
80Trail of the Snail6b+ *16
81Forgotten Sun6b+ 35
82A brief history of lime6c 14
83Duckworth Lewis6b+ 10
84Milo6b 12
85Catch the Pigeon *7b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14

one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12

Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09

I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08

majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04

What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04