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These details were last updated on 02/May/2014

Llanddulas Cave

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 81 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 49m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
November 13 NOTE: Parking problems at this crag. Please see access notes below.

Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:

1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock)

2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)

3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)

4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)

5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Access notes
Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.

NOV 13 UPDATE - Residents on Ffordd Newydd/New Road have been complaining about climbers and walkers parking insensitively on this road. Please ensure that you park carefully, being sure not to inconvenience local residents; especially do not park close to, or opposite any drives or gateways. If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA) or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the Llanddulas village hall.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=1005

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

3.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
16 °C
9 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE TOWER  
2The Soft Exit6b+ 9
3Seriously Rocking7a *16
4Norma the Bitch7a *13
5Tenacious T7b+ **2
6Resist the Race7b **12
7Big Kahoona Burger7c **4
8Vegas Nights6c+ ***31
9Squeaky and the Growler6c+ *2
10Misfits6a+ *15
 GOLF BALL WALL  
12Penblwydd Hapus6a 18
13The golf ball enigma6c *3
14Off with their heads7a+ 4
15Rageh Omaar6b 8
16Hole in one6a *16
17Whisper6b+ 5
18Turtle in trouble6b+ *8
19Tea party6b 4
20Mad hatter - left of bolts6b **4
21Mad Hatter6a *16
 KO WALL  
23Two Cs in a KO6c  
24What man would7b 1
25Free the Bont5c 24
26Elizabeth Taylor5c 18
27Lady Emily Esther Ann Lygon6a 13
 MAIN CAVE  
29Lemon Crunch5a 73
30karmic wind6a+ 99
31Karmic Wind Direct6b 13
32mind light6a+ 89
33spider mite6b 72
34Llanddulas Ditchwater6c 27
35I pee freely6b+ 4
36Early Bird6b 12
37Wooton Basset6b+ 5
38Upside Doom7c *3
39Main OverhangA2 4
40Temple of Gloom8b 3
41Raiders of the Dark Ark8b+ **1
42The Last Crusade8a+ **2
43Lord Nibbler6b 3
 Climb nameGradex
44Guano on sight6a+ *106
45Adolescent Stimuli6b *33
46Rosalind Franklin's picture 515a 70
47Zoidburg6c **25
48Catch the Pigeon7b *1
49Doomside Up7a 35
50The Wirral Whip7c+ *17
51Nanabozho8a *2
52Mudjekeewis7b+ **46
53Pearl from the Shell6c+ 110
54sticky fingers7b+ 18
55Searching6c+ *50
56El Tigre7b 44
57PC wimpout6a+ 90
58grog and the donkey6b+ 16
59afterglow6b **29
60Turtle Tripler6a+ 16
 FORGOTTEN SUN  
62Too Point ZeroS 4a 6
63White man's burden6b *88
64Ralarwdins6b+ ***151
65Tony Stud7b 6
66Stretcharmstrong6c+ *41
67The Man with the Indiarubber Head6a *139
68Udder Head6a *145
69Name of the Pose6a+ *96
70Clipterfyn5c 125
71Poet Lariat6a+ 74
72Not Runout Groove6a 83
73Runout Groove6b 32
74Field of Dreams6b+ *57
75The portcullisV6  
76Unnamed Boulder ProblemV3  
77Construction of Meaning7a 12
78Crack of Dawn6b *32
79Gone Down Under7b  
80Prime the Pump7b **33
81Pump Action7a *29
82Trail of the Snail6b+ *17
83Forgotten Sun6b+ 36
84A brief history of lime6c 14
85Duckworth Lewis6b+ 11
86Milo6b 14
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14

one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12

Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09

I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08

majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04

What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04