Climbs 62
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 91m a.s.l
Faces all

more leicestershire slate © paul birch

Crag features

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

See here for up to date topos.

Approach notes

There are talks going on at the moment with the quarry company and the land owners regarding public access to this unused quarry. Please DO NOT CLIMB HERE for the time being.

Update (11/02/2012) by NobbyClark: Spoke to my brother in law who works for the quarry firm that used to own the quarry. It's been sold to Biffa and if they get their way Charnwood Quarry will be the site of their new incinerator.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

hi which are the bolted routes here? went today for a mooch around but couldn't spot them thanks
wadawads - 22/Mar/15
Last time we were at the crag we spoke with the farmer. Please use the style/ reinforced fence on the top left of the field next to a BIG tree and he is happy. If you climb over his walls and fences he wont be.
chris murnin - 19/Dec/12
What's the latest on access here?
NobbyClark - 11/Feb/12
If First Blood is HVS then I'm a monkeys uncle! If it were a few degrees steeper, maybe! Yeah it's bold as and the topout is loose, but there is good gear in the lower section and you can practically lie down on it! HS 4a?
Tomber - 21/Jul/11
Hi Stuart The routes are named, see http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/Charnwood_Quarry.html I will update the logbook page when the new guide comes out or maybe sooner if I get really bored
mark20 - 12/Apr/11
There is enough room for one car or two stacked in front of the wooden gate on the Nanpantan road or there is a sort of muddy layby 50m down the road where you could fit two or three cars. Any chance of getting some of the unnamed routes names? I'd suggest maybe Monster Slab or Easy Does It for Unnamed and Up and Over 1, 2 & 3 for the three unnamed sport routes, though obviously its up to whoever did them first!
Stuart Hurworth - 14/Jan/11
Thanks Paul mate, I thought it may of been that area but there is very limited parking. I was also on a motorbike and couldn't get in. Moral of this tale is Get there early.
Paul Merrigan - 29/May/10
You can park by a gateway on the Nanpanton to Copt oak road a few hundred yards up the hill from nanpanton. See the map on the tower website.
paul birch - 16/May/10
Hi all! I have been up to the entrance to the quarry, and also tried all around it to find access. Where would I park and how do you get in without having to go through the security?
Paul Merrigan - 16/May/10
John, you were in the wrong part, on the other side of the M1, see map
mark20 - 09/Apr/10
Went there today (3/4/2010). Looks certainly like a working quarry. Big gates totally blocking access, CCTV all over the shop, the works. Pity coz the pictures indicate good climbing.
John_Hat - 03/Apr/10
I do like this place. Went there last week and not another person around on a sunny Sunday afternoon! Some nice climbing to be had.
spqr - 19/Jun/09
Climbs are getting cleaner with more traffic and someone has left slings to abb off the second and top tier on the left of the big slab.
mark20 - 04/Jun/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Nanpantan Slab 
2The Seventh Curse
-
E2 5b 4
3The Fifth Columnist
-
HVS 4b 8
4Henry VIII
-
E1 4c 3
5Fourth Protocol
-
E2 4c *9
6First BloodHVS 4c *46
7Sixth Sense
-
E5 5c 1
8Third Degree
-
E3 5b *4
9Second Coming
-
E1 4b *7
10The Ninth Gate
-
E1 5a 1
11CameramanHVS 4a 2
 Lower (Water) Tier 
13H78 cornerVS 4b 4
14H78 crackHVS 5b 2
15DeterminationE3 6a *2
16Vicky's StockingsS 4a 3
17Little Monkey6a *14
18Wild Goose ChaseVS 4c *3
19Mother GooseVS 4b 2
20Juicey Goosey
-
VS 4b 1
21Homage to Hezmond
-
E1 4c 1
22Just Give Me Some CandyE3 5b 1
 Middle Tier 
24Good CrackHS 4b 7
25Slab & Crack
-
HVS 5b 3
26Slip Central
-
E3 6a **2
27Avalanche CornerHVS 4c 5
28Gillingham Girls
-
HS 4b 18
29The Lost Wave
-
HVS 4c 4
30TemptationE1 5a *2
31Dave's SlabVD 8
32The Slaboratory
-
HVS 4c 5
33Groove is in the Arse
-
HS 4a 5
34Cherry BlossomHVS 4c *5
35Cherry Blossom Right HandS 4a 4
36JackoVD 6
37Lob Worm4a *12
 Upper Tier 
39Nick the Pig4a 18
40Tony Montana5c 18
41Hector the Toad5a 17
42Grumpy Old MenHVD 7
43Old Timers
-
S 2
44B.O.F
-
HVS 4b 2
45The Cynics
-
HVS 4b 1
46Not too Bad
-
HVS 5a 7
47Pretty Good
-
HVS 5b 2
48Dust 'til DuskS 4b **6
49Slightly BetterE2 5c *2
50Loup
-
E5 6a *1
51Reedy
-
HVS 4a 1
52Rich
-
HVS 4a 4
53Don't forget the sun cream
-
HS 4a 5
54The Leper
-
E1 4c 1
55Lazar House
-
E2 5a 1
 Other Walls 
57Dark night *MS 5
58Bucket of worms *E2 4c 1
59TreefrogsE1 5a *3
60Touching clothE4 5b *4
61Long Way OutVS 4b 2
62Is it OK to be Scared?E2 5a/b 3
63Tree Frogs
-
E3 5b 4c  
64Tree Frogs Direct
-
E3 5b 5b  1
65Red Shows HereE2 5a 1
66When Light WaitE3 5b 1
67Dahi *VS 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mark20