Charnwood Quarry

Climbs 62 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 91m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

See here for up to date topos.

Approach notes

There are talks going on at the moment with the quarry company and the land owners regarding public access to this unused quarry. Please DO NOT CLIMB HERE for the time being.

Update (11/02/2012) by NobbyClark: Spoke to my brother in law who works for the quarry firm that used to own the quarry. It's been sold to Biffa and if they get their way Charnwood Quarry will be the site of their new incinerator.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The Seventh CurseE2 5b 4
3The Fifth ColumnistHVS 4b 8
4Henry VIIIE1 4c 3
5Fourth ProtocolE2 4c *9
6First BloodHVS 4c *42
7Sixth SenseE5 5c 1
8Third DegreeE3 5b *4
9Second ComingE1 4b *7
10The Ninth GateE1 5a 1
11CameramanHVS 4a 2
13H78 cornerVS 4b 4
14H78 crackHVS 5b 2
15DeterminationE3 6a *2
16Vicky's StockingsS 4a 2
17Little Monkey6a *11
18Wild Goose ChaseVS 4c *3
19Mother GooseVS 4b 2
20Juicey GooseyVS 4b 1
21Homage to HezmondE1 4c 1
22Just Give Me Some CandyE3 5b 1
24Good CrackHS 4b 7
25Slab & CrackHVS 5b 3
26Slip CentralE3 6a **2
27Avalanche CornerHVS 4c 4
28Gillingham GirlsHS 4b 15
29The Lost WaveHVS 4c 4
30TemptationE1 5a *2
31Dave's SlabVD 8
32The SlaboratoryHVS 4c 5
33Groove is in the ArseHS 4a 5
34Cherry BlossomHVS 4c *5
35Cherry Blossom Right HandS 4a 4
36JackoVD 5
37Lob Worm4a *12
39Nick the Pig4a 18
40Tony Montana5c 18
41Hector the Toad5a 17
42Grumpy Old MenHVD 6
43Old TimersS 2
44B.O.FHVS 4b 2
45The CynicsHVS 4b 1
46Not too BadHVS 5a 7
47Pretty GoodHVS 5b 2
48Dust 'til DuskS 4b **6
49Slightly BetterE2 5c *2
50LoupE5 6a *1
51ReedyHVS 4a 1
52RichHVS 4a 4
53Don't forget the sun creamHS 4a 5
54The LeperE1 4c 1
55Lazar HouseE2 5a 1
57Dark night *MS 5
58Bucket of worms *E2 4c 1
59TreefrogsE1 5a *3
60Touching clothE4 5b *4
61Long Way OutVS 4b 2
62Is it OK to be Scared?E2 5a/b 3
63Tree FrogsE3 5b 4c  
64Tree Frogs DirectE3 5b 5b  1
65Red Shows HereE2 5a 1
66When Light WaitE3 5b 1
67Dahi *VS 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mark20

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
hi which are the bolted routes here? went today for a mooch around but couldn't spot them thanks
wadawads - 22/Mar/15
Last time we were at the crag we spoke with the farmer. Please use the style/ reinforced fence on the top left of the field next to a BIG tree and he is happy. If you climb over his walls and fences he wont be.
chris murnin - 19/Dec/12
What's the latest on access here?
NobbyClark - 11/Feb/12
If First Blood is HVS then I'm a monkeys uncle! If it were a few degrees steeper, maybe! Yeah it's bold as and the topout is loose, but there is good gear in the lower section and you can practically lie down on it! HS 4a?
Tomber - 21/Jul/11
Hi Stuart The routes are named, see I will update the logbook page when the new guide comes out or maybe sooner if I get really bored
mark20 - 12/Apr/11
There is enough room for one car or two stacked in front of the wooden gate on the Nanpantan road or there is a sort of muddy layby 50m down the road where you could fit two or three cars. Any chance of getting some of the unnamed routes names? I'd suggest maybe Monster Slab or Easy Does It for Unnamed and Up and Over 1, 2 & 3 for the three unnamed sport routes, though obviously its up to whoever did them first!
Stuart Hurworth - 14/Jan/11
Thanks Paul mate, I thought it may of been that area but there is very limited parking. I was also on a motorbike and couldn't get in. Moral of this tale is Get there early.
Paul Merrigan - 29/May/10
You can park by a gateway on the Nanpanton to Copt oak road a few hundred yards up the hill from nanpanton. See the map on the tower website.
paul birch - 16/May/10
Hi all! I have been up to the entrance to the quarry, and also tried all around it to find access. Where would I park and how do you get in without having to go through the security?
Paul Merrigan - 16/May/10
John, you were in the wrong part, on the other side of the M1, see map
mark20 - 09/Apr/10
Went there today (3/4/2010). Looks certainly like a working quarry. Big gates totally blocking access, CCTV all over the shop, the works. Pity coz the pictures indicate good climbing.
John_Hat - 03/Apr/10
I do like this place. Went there last week and not another person around on a sunny Sunday afternoon! Some nice climbing to be had.
spqr - 19/Jun/09
Climbs are getting cleaner with more traffic and someone has left slings to abb off the second and top tier on the left of the big slab.
mark20 - 04/Jun/09