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These details were last updated on 06/Apr/2011

Taffs Well Main

Cardiff, WALES

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Paul's Penchant For Pretty Pussy Poses Problems For The Prudes3+ 11
2Out Of The Pit4 *10
3The Immature CulvertS 3
4Western TraverseHS **2
5No-NameMVS **2
6Flying FrisianE3 5b  
7The HobbitHVS 4c 2
8CowpokeE1 5a *5
9ChangesE3 5c * 
10Promises7a **5
11NeroVS 4b, 4a 3
12The RibS 2
13CatwalkS 3
14Crimes Of FashionE4 6b 5
15Sub WallS 1
16Pine TreeVD **90
17SkywalkerE5 6a 1
 CALCITE WALL  
19Red Square6b+ 47
20Organised Chaos6c *34
21The Melty Man Cometh7a **11
22Swashbucklin In Brooklyn7a *8
23Swashbucklin In Brooklyn (Pitch 1)4 *9
24CrowmanE5 6a **1
25Painted BirdE6 6a ***1
26LA Confidential7a 7
27Spirit Of Missouri7a+ **13
28Spirit Of Missouri (Pitch 1)6b *5
29Kings Of New York7a+ **6
30The Conneticut Connection7a 4
31Minnesota Nice/Tainted Bird7a+ 1
32Melting Man7a *33
33Ghengis Khan6c+ ***59
34Taurus Bulbous6c *49
 Climb nameGradex
35Bulbus Tara4 *89
36Hirsuit Ulvula6a 40
 LEFT  
38Jesus Wept6c 8
39Space Cowboys6c+ 7
40Heavenly7a **6
41Christendom7a **6
42The Angel of Mons6c *10
43Decimus Maximus6b *12
44Maximus Extensicus6c *4
45GladiatorE3 5c 1
46Stray Bullets6c+ **5
47Scram7b **6
48New Day Today7a *2
49Rancho La Cha Cha Cha6c *3
 RIGHT  
51Mega Mix5 76
52Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix6b **63
53The Twelve Inch Version7a 10
54Daggers6c *25
55Look Over Yonder6c+ *17
56Wet Afternoon7a+ **5
57Unnamed #86b 13
58Ulrika Ka Ka Ka6c+ *8
59D'ya Hear Ma Dear6a+ *36
60Good Gear,Good Cheer6b *30
61No Beer, No Fear6a+ *37
62Not My Fault!6c+ 6
63Foot And Mouth6b 12
64Id-iot6b *12
65CJD6b *8
66Get Down On This6b *8
67Get Thee Hence6c+ 4
68Unnamed #126c 9
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Access notes
From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08

And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05

Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04

dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03

In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02