Taffs Well Main

Climbs 69 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Approach notes
From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
38Jesus Wept6c 18
39Space Cowboys6c+ 11
40Heavenly7a **10
41Christendom7a **8
42The Angel of Mons6c *11
43Decimus Maximus6b *15
44Maximus Extensicus6c *4
45GladiatorE3 5c 1
46Stray Bullets6c+ **8
47Sugar Bullets *7b+ ***2
48Scram7b **9
49New Day Today7a *3
50Rancho La Cha Cha Cha6c *5
52Mega Mix5a 95
53Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix6b **86
54The Twelve Inch Version7a 15
55Daggers6c *42
56Look Over Yonder6c+ *28
57Wet Afternoon7b **9
58Unnamed #86b 20
59Ulrika Ka Ka Ka6c+ *12
60D'ya Hear Ma Dear6a+ *42
61Good Gear,Good Cheer6b *41
62No Beer, No Fear6a+ *53
63Not My Fault!6c+ 9
64Foot And Mouth6b 14
65Id-iot6b *14
66CJD6b *11
67Get Down On This6b *13
68Get Thee Hence6c+ 7
69Unnamed #126c 13
70Celestial Being7b **2
71Talk About False Gods7a+  
72Unnamed #13 *6c+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer devo

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02