Climbs 94
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Games of Ambivalence, First Ascent © Bunchuk

Crag features

Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Approach notes

From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
This newish crag is awesome for low-grades. Really good grippy rock, enough to keep you entertained for an evening. Shame about the road noise but at least you can't see it.
adsheff - 20/Jun/14
Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
Headed up here last week. Crag is looking good, although some of the routes need to be cleaned up obviously hasn't had much traffic. Smells great, very strong wild garlic covering any nasty odours. Well worth a quick trip. Cheers.
hdjc90 - 27/May/13
the crag is in pretty good nick atm (spring 2012) im guessing due to the dry and warm winter meaning the sewage hasnt overflowed into it and seapage has been minimal. also the lack of tree foliage means that it is a sun trap all day in the current good weather we are experiencing. there is less loose rock and dirt than the other taffs well crags currently. it is hard to work out which route is which as there are more bolts than listed climbs, so an updated route list is needed.
Webster - 02/Apr/12
The smell is still here, but it's mainly coming from an area approaching the crag and you can only smell it now and then on the right hand side of the wall. The routes are a llittle dirty and slippery, but I guess with a little more traffic they could scrub up better. Best to get here early, as we got ot the crag early morning and the smell was not that bad, but was awful a couple of hours later when we were leaving. Definitely some sort of sewage smell possibly from the castle above.
bon - 02/Oct/11
Bit dirty, bit of a smell and a bit loose in places. With more traffic this crag will probably be just as rubbish. OK for a one of visit if you're in the area but nothing impressive.
James_86 - 04/May/11
There was a smell but only occasionally and not as bad as it had been made out to be
toby.pearce - 24/Mar/11
is that smell still there?
Laurent Moseley - 06/Jan/11
been to crag today and left after one route the stench was terrible!
ross duffield - 12/Aug/10
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Taffs Well Pinnacle 
2Proj2 1
3Poppin' in the Poop Deck5c *58
4Megalodon6a *63
5Kiss the Gunner's Daughter5c *69
6Angry Pirate5c *76
7Sponge Bob
-
VD 11
8Sharktopus Vs Megapotamus4c *82
9Yar!5a 98
10Jurassic Shark5c 66
11Paul's Penchant For Pretty Pussy Poses Problems For The Prudes4c 19
 The Shield 
13Out Of The Pit4c 16
14The Immature CulvertS 3
15Western TraverseHS **3
16No-NameMVS **3
17Flying FrisianE3 5b  
18The Hobbit
-
HVS 4c 3
19CowpokeE1 5a *8
20ChangesE3 5c *1
21Promises7a **7
22NeroVS 4b, 4a 4
23The RibS 3
24Catwalk
-
S 6
25Crimes Of Fashion6c+ *5
26Sub Wall
-
S 2
27Pine TreeVD **151
28Skywalker
-
E5 6a 2
 Calcite Wall 
30Red Square6b+ **65
31Organised Chaos6c **49
32The Melty Man Cometh7a *17
33Swashbucklin In Brooklyn7a *9
34Swashbucklin In Brooklyn (Pitch 1)4a *11
35Crowman
-
E5 6a **3
36Painted Bird
-
E6 6a ***3
37LA Confidential7a **10
38Spirit Of Missouri7a+ **13
39Spirit Of Missouri (Pitch 1)6b *5
40Kings Of New York7a+ **7
41The Conneticut Connection7a+ **16
42Minnesota Nice/Tainted Bird7a+ 2
43Melting Man7a ***61
44Ghengis Khan6c+ ***102
45Taurus Bulbous6b+ **88
46Bulbus Tara4b *144
47Hirsuit Ulvula6a *61
 Upper Wall 
49Jesus Wept6c *18
50Space Cowboys6c+ 11
51Heavenly7a *10
52Christendom7a *8
53The Angel of Mons6c *11
54Decimus Maximus6b **15
55Maximus Extensicus6c *4
56Gladiator
-
E3 5c 1
57Stray Bullets6c+ **8
58I'm Spartacus7b+ *** 
59Sugar Bullets *7b+ **3
60Scram7a+ **11
61New Day Today7a *3
62Rancho La Cha Cha Cha6c+ *5
63Talk About False Gods7b+  
 Lower Wall 
65Pilgrim4c  
66Mega Mix5c *103
67Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix6b+ *94
68The Twelve Inch Version7a *15
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer devo