Taffs Well Main

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Access notes
From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
36Hirsuit Ulvula6a 50
 LEFT  
38Jesus Wept6c 13
39Space Cowboys6c+ 10
40Heavenly7a **8
41Christendom7a **6
42The Angel of Mons6c *11
43Decimus Maximus6b *15
44Maximus Extensicus6c *4
45GladiatorE3 5c 1
46Stray Bullets6c+ **5
47Scram7b **8
48New Day Today7a *2
49Rancho La Cha Cha Cha6c *3
 RIGHT  
51Mega Mix5a 87
52Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix6b **79
53The Twelve Inch Version7a 11
54Daggers6c *33
55Look Over Yonder6c+ *22
56Wet Afternoon7a+ **8
57Unnamed #86b 17
58Ulrika Ka Ka Ka6c+ *10
59D'ya Hear Ma Dear6a+ *42
60Good Gear,Good Cheer6b *38
61No Beer, No Fear6a+ *47
62Not My Fault!6c+ 8
63Foot And Mouth6b 13
64Id-iot6b *14
65CJD6b *10
66Get Down On This6b *11
67Get Thee Hence6c+ 5
68Unnamed #126c 11
69Celestial Being7b ** 
70Talk About False Gods7a+  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/southwales/Taffs%20Well%20Main.htm has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 06/Apr/2011
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