Climbs 69
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Beautiful evening biking at Castle Coch © Sarah Black

Crag features

Large former quarry, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 73m. A few routes have loose rock and not much pro but those are the exceptions. Dries quickly. Best routes include Pine Tree (VD/S***) and Cowpoke (E1 5a).

Approach notes

From M4, J32, A 470, 0.5mi north. Overlooks S-bound carriageway of the A470 between Tongwynlais and Taffs Wells. Park at the base of the cliff where it meets the roundabout.

Thanks to whoever has cut a lot of the trees back. On the right wall some of the lower offs are very rusty from No Beer, No Fear to CJD
Gareth T - 18/May/14
Many thanks to whoever cut back all the foliage and trees from around the base of the main wall this winter. The crags looking a lot better for it, cheers.
Giles Davis - 04/May/14
The map link is now correct. Taffs Well train station is about 10min walk away so great connections from Cardiff / Cynon Valley for an after work session. Roughly 30min from Queen St station to crag! has a good topo though the grades on here are more reflective of the difficulty, but I can't vouch for the harder stuff!
spbond - 20/May/08
And it's shit. Go climb the sandstone its much better.
alan rosier - 15/Jun/05
Taffs Well is where castell coch is ,, just on the outskirts of Caerddydd(Cardiff), approximatly 40 miles away from the start of Powys.
uriel - 06/Aug/04
dont go by the map link as it is wrong and will send you about 40 miles out of your way
kt - 05/Jul/03
In the guide book its a lot lot nearer Cardiff ie more in south Wales than in Mid Wales. unfortunatly.
Joe Sterling - 02/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Paul's Penchant For Pretty Pussy Poses Problems For The Prudes3+ 14
2Out Of The Pit
4a *13
3The Immature CulvertS 3
4Western TraverseHS **3
5No-NameMVS **3
6Flying FrisianE3 5b  
7The Hobbit
HVS 4c 3
8CowpokeE1 5a *7
9ChangesE3 5c * 
10Promises7a **7
11NeroVS 4b, 4a 4
12The RibS 3
S 5
14Crimes Of FashionE4 6b 5
15Sub Wall
S 2
16Pine TreeVD **127
E5 6a 2
 Calcite Wall 
19Red Square6b+ 61
20Organised Chaos
6c *48
21The Melty Man Cometh7a **17
22Swashbucklin In Brooklyn7a *8
23Swashbucklin In Brooklyn (Pitch 1)4a *10
E5 6a **3
25Painted Bird
E6 6a ***3
26LA Confidential7a 10
27Spirit Of Missouri7a+ **13
28Spirit Of Missouri (Pitch 1)6b *5
29Kings Of New York7a+ **7
30The Conneticut Connection7a+ 12
31Minnesota Nice/Tainted Bird
7a+ 2
32Melting Man7a *52
33Ghengis Khan6c+ ***87
34Taurus Bulbous
6c *81
35Bulbus Tara4a *125
36Hirsuit Ulvula
6a 60
38Jesus Wept
6c 18
39Space Cowboys
6c+ 11
7a **10
7a **8
42The Angel of Mons6c *11
43Decimus Maximus
6b *15
44Maximus Extensicus
6c *4
E3 5c 1
46Stray Bullets6c+ **8
47Sugar Bullets *7b+ ***2
48Scram7b **10
49New Day Today
7a *3
50Rancho La Cha Cha Cha6c *5
52Mega Mix
5a 95
53Gwesty Cymru 7" Mix
6b **86
54The Twelve Inch Version7a 15
55Daggers6c *42
56Look Over Yonder6c+ *28
57Wet Afternoon7b **10
58Unnamed #8
6b 21
59Ulrika Ka Ka Ka6c+ *12
60D'ya Hear Ma Dear
6a+ *42
61Good Gear,Good Cheer
6b *43
62No Beer, No Fear6a+ *56
63Not My Fault!
6c+ 9
64Foot And Mouth
6b 14
6b *14
66CJD6b *12
67Get Down On This
6b *13
68Get Thee Hence
6c+ 7
69Unnamed #12
6c 13
70Celestial Being7b **2
71Talk About False Gods7a+  
72Unnamed #13 *6c+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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