Climbs 8
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces S
The Compound © scottG
CLIMBING IS NOW FORBIDDEN IN BARNTON QUARRY: FEBRUARY 2013
INFORMATION IS PROVIDED FOR HISTORIC PURPOSES ONLY
The Compound’s convenient location, 3 miles from the centre of Edinburgh makes it a handy training ground for Edinburgh based climbers. However don’t arrive expecting to find an area of outstanding natural beauty as you may be disappointed. The quarry houses a derelict World War II Radar Bunker which has become a hot spot for graffiti writers, giving the compound a distinctly urban feel.
The majority of the rock in this dolerite quarry is low angled however the Northern back-wall, situated behind the bunker, contains a number of fine, mid grade routes on solid clean rock. The routes vary from short overhanging test pieces to longer crack lines and grooves, with protection ranging from good to sparse.
The quarry is South-facing and well sheltered, drying quickly after rain. The overhanging Fuse Wall stays dry during heavy downpours but eventually...the drips will get you.
Drytoolers - you know the deal: Don't tool established summer routes
CLIMBING IS NOW FORBIDDEN IN BARNTON QUARRY: FEBRUARY 2013
INFORMATION IS PROVIDED FOR HISTORIC PURPOSES ONLY
PLEASE NOTE BEFORE CLIMBING:
The owner of the Quarry is very reasonable. He supports climbers and is happy for climbers to use the area however after recent damage to site he has asked that anyone wishing to climb contacts him on
martyn.dawson@btinternet.com
Please do your best to limit your impact on the area, being especially careful not to damage gates or fences in order to safeguard the the current friendly relationship between climbers and the landowner
Just drop him a line asking permission before you visit - job done.
The Compound is situated in the North-West corner of Corstorphine Hill. From Queensferry Road (A90) turn up the hill at the Clermiston Junction onto Clermiston Road North, after 300 meters turn left, just after a bus shelter, into a small car park (12 cars). Walk past the locked barrier into the forest following a wire fence on the left, after thirty meters you will reach a large rusty steel gate next to a yellow shipping container which may or may not be locked, walk / jump in to enter the quarry. Pass to the right of the overgrown bunker to access the climbs
(NT 203 748) Postcode. EH4 7BN
I was denied access here today (May 2012). The quarry is now owned by the people behind www.secretbunker.co.uk and is an active building site. They suggested that climbing would not be allowed here in the future. I'm gutted as this quarry is just a stones throw from my house and I've been climbing here for over 10 years. colin8ll - 01/May/12 |
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer scottG