Climbs 22
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

Clipping THE peg. © Kyle Warlow

Crag features

The best cliff in this section of the Gower Coast (Horses Cliff to Port Eynon). Named for the wrecked ship's boiler visible at low water. Groups use this - you may have to share. Single-pitch routes up to 24m; the E2s are cheap (and flattering) ticks, no harder than E1.

Approach notes

Non-tidal.
Take the A4118 tw Port Eynon, but turn R to Overton village. There is limited parking here. (Previously you could take a lane (SS 455 853) W along the clifftop to park, but beware farm vehicles - however there is now [9/02] a locked gate at the start of the lane.)
Walk along the lane and cross the stile and take the second valley on the L. The cliffs are to the L when facing the sea.

 

Seeing as the previous approach is vague and it took me an hour to get to the crag following it (such as it is), a more thorough description: Park considerately near the village green in Overton - behind the noticeboard is best - or turn around and find a layby, but please avoid blocking the postbox as there are some quite nice elderly people in the houses opposite who apparently send a lot of letters. Follow the road SW from the green as it becomes a track that bends to the left at a metal gate with a 'No Parking' sign, through a metal stile, then take the steep right-hand fork downhill, down wooden steps and through a wooden gate. Follow the path west, passing multiple promising-looking cliffs that turn out to be pap on closer inspection, until you spot the landmark of the pinnacle at the top-right of the crag. 20 minutes. 
Just been to this crag, quite good, not many climbs, but some nice routes. Parking is very limited and some of the locals will not like you parking in the village, as we returned to our vehicle a rather crazy and seething old lady screamed at us until we left (literally).
mattjam - 22/Oct/07
Looks alot bigger on first visit until you do your first climb, as the first 8m are scrambling. Recieves alot of traffic from groups (understandably) lots of low grade climbs, generally solid rock except for a few pieces at the top. Gear is generally awkward to place on alot of the routes. Nuclear Arms, as the guide describes is a one move wonder, but the gear is bomber and the peg didn't look that bad. Found the first part of the route (Termination HVS,5a) more scary than the E2 part!
stuwelly85 - 16/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Scent of muttonS 4a 101
2ClassicVD *491
3Column
-
S 4a 511
4Dulfer
-
S 4a *535
5Swirtler
-
HVS 5b 96
6Direct
-
VS 4c *293
7Termination
-
HVS 5a 112
8Nuclear Arms
-
E2 5c *53
9Middle Age Dread
-
E3 6a *13
10Nemo
-
VS 4b *235
11Tokyo
-
E1 5c 78
12Tokyo II
-
HVS 5b 63
13Ayesha
-
VS 4c 217
14Pinnacle Crack
-
VD 436
15Girdle
-
VS 4c **26
16Overhang Traverse
-
VS 4c 12
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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