Climbs 126
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 430m a.s.l
Faces SW

1st pitch © auld al

Crag features

Nice situation overlooking Lough Tay and the Guinness Estate. A selection of multipitch and shorter routes. Recommended by the locals.

Luggala is a serious 'mountain crag'. Most routes are rarely climbed and route finding can be a challenge.

Approach notes

The crag is on privately owned land. Quickest access is car park south of Sally Gap O138088 directly to the NW of the crag. 30 minute walk across moorland to the top of the crag followed by an unpleasant scramble down gulleys on either side of rockface.

The lower approach from the Pier Gates O172065 affords an advance view the crag. Direct approach is not permitted. The road(vechicles not permitted) must be followed to a bridge over the Cloghoge before crossing to the west side of the valley and then contouring back to the crag.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 G Buttress 
2Lake ViewHS 4b * 
3Fall OutHVS 5a * 
4Tipping PointE1 5a * 
5Solitary PursuitsVS 4c * 
6EavesdropE1 5b * 
 H Buttress West Face 
8Paladin
-
VS 4c * 
9Night Raven
-
E2 5c ** 
10Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5a * 
11Pedestal
-
E1 5b * 
12Bearcats
-
VS 4c * 
13DetourVS 4c * 
14TouchstoneE1 5b * 
15SarabandE1 5b * 
16Normative BehaviourHVS 5b * 
 H Butress South Face 
18OutlawVS 4c * 
19Sirius
-
HVS 5a * 
20TroyHVS 5a * 
21PookaVS 4c * 
22ThunderboltE1 5c * 
23LightfootE1 5b * 
24BranVS 4c **5
25Javelin
-
E1 5b *** 
 Woody Wall 
27HyraxHVS 4c * 
28WoodstockE2 5b * 
29Definitely Not The BeachE2 5b * 
30CaravanE2 5b ** 
31All Along The Watchtower
-
VS 4b ***2
32Man DieselE5 6a ** 
 South Butress (Creag Fasra) 
34PeregrineE2 5c ** 
35WarriorHVS ** 
36IvanhoeVS 4c * 
37Steppenwolf
-
E1 5b ***2
38Mouse MazeHVS 5a * 
39Muskrat RambleHVS 5a ***9
40Thriller
-
E3 5c ***2
41Electric LadylandE2 5c ** 
42WaspHVS 5b * 
43Crevasse Routee
-
VS 4c * 
44The Real ThingHVS 5a **  
45OffspringVS 4c *1
46Silent SpringHVS 5a * 
47ConscriptE1 5b * 
48VolunteersE1 5b, 5b **1
49Left Side ClimbVS 4c *2
50Left Side Climb DirectHVS 5b **4
51Pine Tree ButressS 4a ***20
52Lonesome PineE1 5b ** 
53TaktixHS 4b **1
 Main Face 
55Pisces
-
HVS 5a * 
56Along The Edge
-
VS * 
57Pathfinder
-
VS * 
58Gateway
-
E1 ** 
59The Travellers Journey
-
VS 4c,4b ** 
60Charon
-
E1 * 
61Dawn Swept
-
E1 * 
62Clingon / Claidheamh SolaisVS 4c **16
63Pentax
-
VS * 
64Spearhead
-
HVS 5a **4
65Razorback
-
E4 6b *** 
66The Great Roof
-
E6 5c,6c ***2
67The Gannets
-
E3 5c ***2
68Juniper Junction
-
E5 6b *** 
69Soyuz 10
-
E6 5c ** 
70Main Face Traverse
-
VS * 
71The Search For Spock
-
E3 6a ** 
72BansheeE2 5c **1
73Precious Metal
-
E7 6c ** 
74Messiah
-
E1 * 
75Obelix
-
E1 * 
76Hairspring
-
E1 * 
77Gossamer
-
HVS * 
 North Buttress (Creag Thuaidh ) 
79Lounge Lizard
-
E2 5b * 
80Dreamtime
-
E4 6a *** 
81Stampede
-
VS 4c * 
82Official
-
E2 5b **2
83Dance Of The Tumblers
-
E1 5b ***6
84Albatross
-
HVS 5a ** 
85Tardis
-
VS 4c * 
86Curved Air
-
VS 4b **2
87Voyager
-
HVS 5a * 
88Beatnik
-
VS 4c * 
89Nanuk
-
VS 4c * 
90Rock On
-
VS 4c * 
91Vita Brevis
-
HVS 5b * 
 Conifer Buttress 
93Highway
-
VS 4c **1
94No QuarterE1 5b ** 
95Man O' WarE3 5c ** 
96StagefrightHVS 5a ** 
97Curved AirVS 4b ** 
98Heavenly BlueHVS 5a * 
99BywayHVS 5a * 
100Higher RapturesHVS 5b * 
101EscalatorVS 4c * 
102Humble PieHVS 5a * 
103Fumble HighE1 5b ** 
104High And DryE3 5c ** 
105TumbledownE1 5b * 
106SquawkHS 4b * 
107HarvestE1 5c * 
108SearcherVS 4c * 

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