Nice situation overlooking Lough Tay and the Guinness Estate. A selection of multipitch and shorter routes. Recommended by the locals.
Luggala is a serious 'mountain crag'. Most routes are rarely climbed and route finding can be a challenge.
The crag is on privately owned land. Quickest access is car park south of Sally Gap O138088 directly to the NW of the crag. 30 minute walk across moorland to the top of the crag followed by an unpleasant scramble down gulleys on either side of rockface.
The lower approach from the Pier Gates O172065 affords an advance view the crag. Direct approach is not permitted. The road(vechicles not permitted) must be followed to a bridge over the Cloghoge before crossing to the west side of the valley and then contouring back to the crag.
|H BUTRESS SOUTH FACE|
|2||Bran||VS 4c **||4|
|3||Javelin||E1 5b ***|
|5||All Along The Watchtower||VS 4b ***||2|
|6||Highway||VS 4c **||1|
|SOUTH BUTRESS (CREAG FASRA)|
|8||Stepenwolf||E1 5b ***||1|
|9||Muskrat Ramble||HVS 5a ***||7|
|10||Thriller||E3 5c ***||1|
|11||Volunteers||E1 5b, 5b **||1|
|12||Left Side Climb Direct||HVS 5b **||3|
|13||Pine Tree Butress||S 4a ***||13|
|15||Clingon / Claidheamh Solais||VS 4c **||12|
|16||The Travellers Journey||VS 4c,4b **|
|17||Spearhead||HVS 5a **||1|
|18||Razorback||E4 6b ***|
|19||The Gannets||E3 5c ***||1|
|20||Juniper Junction||E5 6b ***|
|21||Banshee||E2 5c **|
|NORTH BUTTRESS (CREAG THUAIDH )|
|23||Dreamtime||E4 6a ***|
|24||Dance Of The Tumblers||E1 5b ***||4|
|25||Curved Air||VS 4b **||2|
|26||Taktix||HS 4b **||1|
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