Causey Quarry

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
An old quarry in the Causey Country Park. Suffers from a lot of dirt getting washed down from the rapidly eroding wood above the crag. There are some excellent routes though, and some pumpy traverses. The overhanging nature of the crag makes it a good choice in the rain as many routes will stay dry. Plenty trees to set top-ropes but care is required because the top can be very slippery.

Approach notes
Between Sunniside and Stanley an the A6076. Go to the Causey Arch hotel and park in the Country Park. Go past the bogs and then some steps lead down to the crag.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1wall route oneS 4b 68
2black crackVD 58
3Easy ButtressM 70
4Spiders CrackS 4b 91
5Wall Route 2HS 4c 48
6Dusky MaidenS 4c 37
7Quarry WallVS 4c *230
8Overhanging WallHVS 5b 90
9Crack and ChimneyS 4b *147
10The Mauler Roof 20mE5 6b 10
11The MaulerE3 5b *42
12UnbreakableE5 6b **1
13ManglerHVS 5a ***233
14PerplexityE6 6c *4
15DanglerE3 5c **40
16StranglerE4 6b *3
17HangoverE1 5b *50
18LetterboxE1 5b 42
19Route 2.5HVS 5a 13
20Route 2.75HVS 5b 4
21The AreteHS 4b 47
22Wall Route ThreeS 4b 153
23Hanging CrackVS 4b 60
24Hanging Crack DirectVS 4c 14
25Causey CrackVS 4c **268
26A Means to an EndVS 4c 39
27Diagonal DirectHS 4b *94
28Caff's Crimpy CrackerMVS 5a **15
29Telstar Crack (Telstar Direct)VS 4c *87
30DiagonalD 67
31Telstar CornerS 4a *53
32Telstar Corner DirectVS 4b *29
33Right Hand WallVS 4c 29
34Right Hand Wall DirectHVS 5b 16
35SandmanE3 5c 6
36White TraverseVS 4b 5
37Low Level TraverseV2 5b 25
38The HauntHVS 5a 6
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More info and link to PDF miniguide:
Steve Crowe - 08/Jul/14
Several birds nests in the larger cracks and corners.
IJHunt - 26/May/13
Recommend wearing a helmet at this crag if people are rigging up/exiting from the top. Lots of loose stones getting knocked down (inevitable considering the ground up there). Saying that, it was the driest I've seen it so that might have been a factor.
martinph78 - 02/May/13
Lots of trees for top roping from - you can set up most of the climbs with just slings rather than a second rope but be warned a few of the trees are long dead.
alan1234 - 28/Apr/10
Orite local crag. There's a new route up there if your interested.
Lew13 - 23/Aug/09
If you live local then its handy for practice but i find the rock is very dirty and not the strongest which doesnt boost my confidence in protection. The trees at the to make the crag a good top roping venue and a good plce for climbers who are venturing away from the indoor wall scene for the first time. At weekends though yourkshire, the lakes and northumberland provide a much more intresting climbing scene.
Jonny Rambo - 13/Aug/08
i have climbed several of causey quarry's climbs and i have enjoyed every second of it. there are a different range of climbs varying in difficulty and it is still one of my most favourite places to climb because i live local. Its one of those places where you can come home from work and grab all your gear and go as its just around the corner i love it.
steveo_teamnortheast - 26/Apr/07