Climbs 51
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 54m a.s.l
Faces W

Jesmond Dene © Phil O'Neill

Crag features

Bouldering only on the Blackberry Boulder, however, a short walk away there is a quarry, which can be bouldered or trad climbed. The quarry is in the process of being cleaned.come and help.Its a brill place

Approach notes

In Jesmond, Newcastle, Access from the Coast Road or better, Castle Farm road.

Nearest metro station is Ilford road, the crag can be found by turning right onto the path immediately after the bridge on Castle Farm road, the quarry is visible from the upper path after ~120m and the bouldering from the lower path.

Has anyone graded, named the routes on the smaller quarry by the public toilets? I've spent the last few days top roping the routes at the bottom of the stairs and was wondering what other people make of them or if its worth gardening back the rest of the quarry.
s.scott - 03/Jun/13
Went today with my mate and whilst setting a top rope up on the main wall a woman from the nearby farm came and told us that the boundary of their land extends all the way to the cliff edge (not just to the fence) and threatened us with prosecution... So unless you are willing to place gear (not recommended) then top roping is impossible.
connolly230292 - 28/Sep/11
Castlefarm road not 'Castledene' sorry if a mod could edit my post I would be gratefull, Thanks.
G.Duffy - 07/Aug/11
The Quarry is mainly very wet due to it being very low in comparison to the surrounding land - unless its had a few days of solid sun to dry. Best Parking is on castledean road the further from the freeman hospital the shorter the walk. head down the hill and turn left and enter the dene just before the bridge. the bouldering is just on the Right down some stairs. the quarry is further down the inital path on the left you can see it before you can get to it because of the wall and the drop Kids set fires and drink there so bits of broken glass and litter & some of the rock is covered in soot from fires! There is also alot of ivy now hanging over the top. The North wall is very crumbly you look up for a hand holds and get an eye full of sand. The East wall seems not too bad but is covered in debris (so take a brush!). The top outs are now over-grown and the easy access land behind [and on top] has recently been fenced off [and is private] only leaving a narrow strip of overgrown matted weeds and bushes (I had to crawl on my hands and knees through some of them). I would just abseil back down. We top/bottom roped the middle climb on the North wall - just to the right of the overhang (don't know the name but its the only one the ivy hasn't covered) on the way up looked for gear placements, the result were unanimously "sketchy at best". we still had hours of enjoyment regardless of our complaints. At the Bouldering venue we have no real complaints. climbed here alot as its less that 5 minutes away. There is another smaller 'Quarry' located near the public toilets ( cross the river the ruins of the Old water mill) its also quite muddy. I've heard rumors of other bits of "cliff" from none climbers but I haven't found them yet.
G.Duffy - 07/Aug/11
Went there on sunday, climbed a route on the right hand wall, uncertain of name/grade. Good rock + route! Me and a friend are planning to clean up the quarry! Get out there and climb on it!
timlongs - 09/Nov/10
great for an hour after work
phillcardiac - 26/Mar/07
Pumpy, usually dry, sandy grit. Great for training but suspect for falling on gear. Could spoil some lines.
hugh squire - 10/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Left Aretef4 43
2Tarmac Risingf6B 11
3El Capf6B 11
4Half Domef4 43
5Right Aretef4 30
6Left Aretef4 22
7Yosemite Wallf4 32
8The Nude Endf4 20
9Wicked Endf6A 21
10Half Roundf4 17
11The Howlingf6A 22
12The Clawf6A 16
13Quick Silverf4 28
14The Salathe Wallf4 38
15The Nosef4 46
16Crimp to Crimpf4 15
17Left to Right Traversef4+ 15
18Mid Hight Traversef4 13
19Low Level Traversef5+ 5
20Right Wall Traversef4 1
21The Traverses ComboV1 9
22The Knee Trembler
-
V7  
23The Scoopf6B *7
24Top Dogf7A  
25Lap Dogf7B  
26Top Deckf7A  
27Bottom Deck
-
f6C  
28Warm Up Wall
-
f5+  
29The Stump
-
f6A  
30Hole to Hole
-
f5+  
31Left Arete (Quarry)
-
f5+ 1
32Right Arete (Quarry)
-
f6A  
33Under Dog
-
f7C  
34The Scoop (Quarry)
-
f5+  
35The Eyes
-
f6B  
36Lay Back Crack
-
f5+ 1
37Peg Scar Crack
-
f6C  
38The Diagonals
-
f6C  
39Finger and Crack
-
f7A  
40Back Wall
-
f5 1
41Sleeping Duck
-
f6A  
42Smooth Arete
-
f6A 1
43Corner and Arete
-
f6A  
44Arse Holes
-
f7A  
45Ivy Walk
-
f6A  
46Right Wall
-
f6A 2
47High Level Traverse
-
f6A 1
48The Rib
-
f5+ 5
49The Ledges
-
f5 4
50Lay Back Arete
-
f6B  
51Mossy edges *f5+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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