Llangattock Escarpment (Eastern Edge)

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A long escarpment - extends for 3mi along the valley overlooking Crickhowell. Mostly old limestone quarries, generally solid. Exposed and cold when windy, pleasant if calm and sunny. Routes up to 43m, notable for Liberator (E3 6a) and Roaring Eighties (E5 6a).

Access notes
Off the A465 take a lane opposite the Corn Exchange Inn past Llanelly church. Over cattle grid, steep turn R onto road following hillside. Follow for 1mi to track that forks L, below the edge: follow the track to car park on the L.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1MirrorVS 4c
2Waiting For Those Summer EveningsHVS 5a
3BarndoorerVS 4c
4Only The LonelyHVS 5a
5ReunionE1 5b *
6Class of 66E2 5c
7Rock In A SlotE3 5c *
8InvertHVS 5a
9Whoops BrianHS 5a
10Alien SummerE3 5c
11Schools Out ForeverE4 6a *
12Sound BarrierE3 6a
13Edge of SilenceE4 6b
14Cotton Wood CafeE2 5b
15WowaiuhVS 4b
16Wrestling The Polar BearE3 5c
17HesitationHVS 4c
18Bid The ReturnE3 6a
19Lost In TimeHVS 5a
20Nic Of TimeHVS 5b
21Bite SizeVS 4a
22Little JerkHVS 5a
23Heart BypassE2 5c *
24Heart RouteE3 5c **
25GrenobleVS 4c
26Poison IvyE2 5b
27Old ShepE1 5a
28Wicked LaurenE2 5b
29Gavin Cytiau likes PuttyHVS 5a
30Em WonE2 5b
31Company FlowVS 4c
32Flik On The RopeE1 5b
3320,000 Leagues under The SeaE3 6a
34The Mile High ClubE3 6a
35Bitter BarkE2 5b
36Z.X.E1 5b
37Space Between My EarsE2 5b
38Penwood SpecialE2 5b
39Wall Of GlassHVS 5a
40No RefHVS 5a
41The GamblerE2 5b
42Bruten LeeHVS 5a
43AzollaVS 4b
44The Backsliding BHVS 5a
45Parson's PleasureE2 5b
46Boozey's First ClimbE3 5c *
47Wonderful LifeHVS 5a
48Animal Lunch BoxE5 6a
49VendettaE3 6a *
50Fighting CockE3 5c *
51Race Against TimeE1 5b
52WonderlandsE6 6b *
53Mad HatterE5 6a
54Stay SharpE4 6a
55WinningE3 5c **
56HitmanE4 6b *
57Culmination CrackE3 6a
58Cold SnatchE1 5b *
59The Big Green Pleasure MachineE2 5c *
60Mean GreenE4 6a
61LiberatorE4 6a **
62West windE1 5a *
63TrampHVS 4c
64The dark agesE2 5b
65Sister SledgeE1 5b
66Nerve TestE2 5c
67Shock DoseE2 5b
68AeginaE1 5a
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer timjones

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Esoteric crag for the adventurous where trad routes prevail over the safety of bolts. Fantastic surroundings, memorable routes with some big leads. If you like the safety of bolt clipping please look elsewhere.
sniffer - 22/Jul/14
A crag of "national importance"??? !!!!Complete tosh,more like an outdated oasis of choss in the back of beyond.At least the locals could get round to banging in some stakes or sticking in some LO's on selected routes.
freelunchprovider - 22/Nov/13
with regards to the 'land owner' they have been cautioned by the police for stopping people from going up there and abusing people, so all is good, plus if your part of the BMC pull out your card if they give you grief and they get scared as they have no idea whit it means
Griff87 - 02/Jun/10
Apart from the bad weather this crag has some very enjoyable climbs. Be aware that there is a lot of loose rock on some of the pitches and cleaning is highly advisable before climbing. I personnaly have had some extremely good days climbing here and up to date have had no trouble with the local farmer(I might be the only one though as he knows me very well. ha!)
Mike - 02/Sep/06
\"Crag of the day!!!!????????\" Yeah just like Beruit is Country of the month or Vauxhall Viva is the car of the year!\" Last thing I head about llangattock - the \"land-owner\" had just bought a new shot-gun - not a joke people. Mate of mine was on an abeil at this crag, derigged his ropes and found that someone had poured wood preserving fluid over them. BMC have had problems with access at this crag for years. Think very carefully before you go. Please dont get necky, if you meet this farmer. I have 2 other storiies about him, but dont know if they are true - if they are STAY WELL AWAY.
Semtex - 02/Jul/02
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These details were last updated on 01/Feb/2008

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