Go West © deepstar
The islet faces North: Half tide, but long beach access.
This is an area of slabs adjacent to the prominent offsure stack of Pen-y-Holt - easily seen when approching from the East. An antractive area which is 'disappointingly loose'.
The three obvous seaward-facing slabs are faced by smaller slabs on the islet between the stack and the mainland face. The islet has a distinctive keyhole cave on its seaward side and can be climbed down on this seaward side to the rocky beach at low tide and with an interesting and gripping traverse at high tide.
Access to the rocky beach is either by abseil down the mainland slab (from the 2 new stakes) or by walking in from the approach to Pen-y-Holt Bay.
Car access to this rugged coastline is best from the Stack Rocks car park, walk West and over the 'MoD Access Only' marked red gate. There is an additional access point car park to the North-West end of the range, Gupton Gate, only open from 1st August.
All climbers must attend MoD briefing (three each year) and hold a valid MoD permit to enter the West range, after which entry is permitted at any time during daylight, at weekends and on Bank holidays only.
Bird bans and marked out by small red painted 'pots' with direction arrows, this infomation can be found on the notice bords in either car park, the MoD gatehouse and leaflets available from the two local campsites and Pubs. Most are lifted early Aug time.
The breifing gives all the details you will need to know.
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