UKC

Climbs 30
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 151m a.s.l
Faces S

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A beautiful climb to solo! © Zeb

Crag features

The routes vary between about 5m and 12m high and are below the chateau. Most are equipped with either modern stainless staple type bolts or 10mm eyebolts, all seem to be in good condition. Most of the routes have their own belay chains, some of these are a little rusty but seem fine. There has been some re-equipping recently with the addition of a 10mm steel cable across the top of all of the routes (not sure of the purpose ?) Some long lengths (500mm +) of stainless studding with eyebolts have also been resin fixed (upright)into the top of the routes adjacent to the old piton placements in the wall - don't really understand what these are for as the length would cause them to bend (and probably fail) if exposed to any kind of force...

Approach notes

Just off the D705. Easy to park a car, just below the routes, next to the tennis court.

Enter via the hospital car park or disregard the sign about fire brigade access.

Topo available here from the tourist info website: http://www.naturellementperigord.fr/index.php/loisirs-nature/escalade/292-topoguides

A very pleasant November afternoon in the sunshine was had on short and interesting routes. Not all are equipped so had to climb what was but all routes we did were good. Appear to be new staples on some and none on others. New set of routes on the far right, all bolted, that are not in the guide book.
Andy Edgar - 29/Dec/14
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