Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)

Climbs 56 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

The rust curtain is a great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes.

Many more walls have been developed with considerable variation in styles and grades.

Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).

Approach notes

The quarry owners have NOT given permission for climbing here. Any bolts have been placed without the owners consent. (Signposts saying climbing prohibited)

M4 J27: take the Risca road to Sirhowy country park. The quarry is easily accessible from the picnic area but an extremely low profile is essential if you really must climb there. GEOCACHE Grid Ref: N51.36.726; W3.9.049

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
33Dustin Crime6a+ 2
 QUEEN WALL  
35Queen Bee5c 20
36A Poxy Queen6a *28
37Slip Into The Queen6a+ 19
38Little Queen5c 25
39Sheer Heart Attack7a+ 27
40Deaf as a Post7a+ 10
41Killer Queen7a *31
42Queens of the Stone Age6b+ *27
43Drag Queen6a+ 19
44Raving Queen6b+ 26
45The Queen is Dead6b *18
46Drama Queen5c 9
 UPPER TIER  
48ZeitgeistE2 5c **2
49Forgotten Ground6a 2
50Vicarious6a *3
51Hooker With a Penis6a+ *3
52Lateralus6b *3
53Rosetta Stoned5c *3
54Stinkfist6a 2
55Intension6b+ 3
56Third Eye6b *3
57Jambi6c *2
58The Grudge6c 3
59Prison Sex5c 3
60The Outsider5b 3
 BOULDERING  
62OlivineV1 6
631 Inch PunchV0+ 5
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sign posts on rock saying "climbing prohibited". Rock is in clear sight so easy to get caught if you chance it.amazing looks awesome though! :(
Max Lowry - 31/Jan/15
Looks like the crucial side pull of killer queen has broken off. Likely much much harder now
Robheirene - 28/Aug/14
The block on Brucifer always looked dodgy but the tree eventually popped it off. The rest is stable. May have affected the grade very sightly only.
alan rosier - 12/Jan/10
Large (3/4 Ton) block has recently (September 2009) fallen off Brucifer. Hard to tell if any more is likely to fall. All other lines are uneffected.
Stu Jones - 21/Sep/09