Climbs 58
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Skanderbeg © alan rosier

Crag features

The rust curtain is a great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes.

Many more walls have been developed with considerable variation in styles and grades.

Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).

Approach notes

The quarry owners have NOT given permission for climbing here. Any bolts have been placed without the owners consent. (Signposts saying climbing prohibited)

M4 J27: take the Risca road to Sirhowy country park. The quarry is easily accessible from the picnic area but an extremely low profile is essential if you really must climb there. GEOCACHE Grid Ref: N51.36.726; W3.9.049

Sign posts on rock saying "climbing prohibited". Rock is in clear sight so easy to get caught if you chance it.amazing looks awesome though! :(
Max Lowry - 31/Jan/15
Looks like the crucial side pull of killer queen has broken off. Likely much much harder now
Robheirene - 28/Aug/14
The block on Brucifer always looked dodgy but the tree eventually popped it off. The rest is stable. May have affected the grade very sightly only.
alan rosier - 12/Jan/10
Large (3/4 Ton) block has recently (September 2009) fallen off Brucifer. Hard to tell if any more is likely to fall. All other lines are uneffected.
Stu Jones - 21/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2Gott In Himmel7a 53
3Butcher Heinrich7b *28
4Strange Little Girl6b+ **109
5King Ada7b **39
6Skanderbeg7b **23
7King Zog7a+ *14
8Face7b+ 6
9Mawr, Mawr, Mawr7a *51
10The Crimson King6c+ *22
11Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro)7a *26
12VIP Lunge6c 22
13Hostility Suite6c *50
14Aedan's Arete6a+ 38
 Traverses and Link-up's 
16King Krab7a *2
17King Ada / Butcher Heinrich Combination7a+ *2
18King Ada / Strange Little Girl Combination6c **37
 Right Hand Wall 
6b 38
21Take Your Pants To Heaven6c 16
22Gauge the Unknown6c+ 3
45The Queen is Dead6b *19
46Drama Queen5c 9
 Upper Tier 
49Psilocybic6c *2
50ZeitgeistE2 5c **3
51Forgotten Ground6a 3
52Approaching the Nadir6a *7
53Hooker With a Penis6a+ *7
54Lateralus6b *6
55Rosetta Stoned6a *7
56Stinkfist6a 3
57Intension6b+ 5
58Third Eye6b *6
59The Grudge6c *8
60Jambi6c 9
61Prison Sex5c 6
62The Outsider5b 4
64Olivinef5 6
651 Inch Punchf4+ 5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier