Climbs 66
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

R McAllister on Killer Queen Fr.7a © alan rosier

Crag features

The rust curtain is a great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes.

Many more walls have been developed with considerable variation in styles and grades.

Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).

Approach notes

The quarry owners have NOT given permission for climbing here. Any bolts have been placed without the owners consent. (Signposts saying climbing prohibited)

M4 J27: take the Risca road to Sirhowy country park. The quarry is easily accessible from the picnic area but an extremely low profile is essential if you really must climb there. GEOCACHE Grid Ref: N51.36.726; W3.9.049

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Decent crag especially Rust Curtain which is steeper than it looks. Queen Wall is okay in the middle but the micro-boulder-problem routes on the left hand side are truly poxy and whichever moron gave them any stars at all needs to be shot.
Fiend - 25/Jul/16
Sign posts on rock saying "climbing prohibited". Rock is in clear sight so easy to get caught if you chance it.amazing looks awesome though! :(
Max Lowry - 31/Jan/15
Looks like the crucial side pull of killer queen has broken off. Likely much much harder now
Robheirene - 28/Aug/14
The block on Brucifer always looked dodgy but the tree eventually popped it off. The rest is stable. May have affected the grade very sightly only.
alan rosier - 12/Jan/10
Large (3/4 Ton) block has recently (September 2009) fallen off Brucifer. Hard to tell if any more is likely to fall. All other lines are uneffected.
Stu Jones - 21/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Rust Curtain 
2The Waco Kid6b 4
3Gott In Himmel7a *60
4Butcher Heinrich (Direct)7b *10
5Strange Little Boy6c 7
6Strange Little Girl6c ***144
7King Ada7b **53
8Skanderbeg (Direct)7b+ **2
9King Zog7a+ ***21
10Face7b+ ***9
11Mawr, Mawr, Mawr7a ***74
12The Crimson King7a *23
13Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro)7a *29
14VIP Lunge6c+ 28
15Hostility Suite6c **62
16Aedan's Arete6a+ 42
 Traverses and Link-up's 
18King Krab7a *2
19Butcher Heinrich (dry start)7b **34
20King Ada / Butcher Heinrich Combination7a+ *5
21King Ada / Strange Little Girl Combination6c **44
22Skanderbeg (easy start)7b **30
23Ottoman7b+ **1
 Right Hand Wall 
25Brucifer6a+ 39
51The Queen is Dead6b *24
52Drama Queen5c 14
 Upper Tier 
54Project5c  
55Buddha's Watching5b 6
56Providence6b+ 7
57Psilocybic6c *8
58ZeitgeistE2 *11
59Forgotten Ground6a 10
60Approaching the Nadir6a *22
61Hooker With a Penis6a+ **20
62Lateralus6b **18
63Rosetta Stoned6a *19
64Stinkfist6a 17
65Intension6b+ *14
66Third Eye6b *25
67The Grudge6c *23
68Jambi6c *27
69Prison Sex5c 28
70The Outsider5b *20
 BOULDERING 
72OlivineV1 7
731 Inch PunchV0+ 5

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