Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)

Climbs 43 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes. Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).

Access notes
The quarry owners have NOT given permission for climbing here. Any bolts have been placed without the owners consent. (Signposts saying climbing prohibited)

M4 J27: take the Risca road to Sirhowy country park. The quarry is easily accessible from the picnic area but an extremely low profile is essential if you really must climb there. GEOCACHE Grid Ref: N51.36.726; W3.9.049

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE RUST CURTAIN  
2Gott In Himmel7a 43
3Butcher Heinrich7b *20
4Strange Little Girl6b+ **85
5King Ada7b **33
6Skanderbeg7b **14
7King Zog7a+ *9
8Face7b+ 3
9Mawr, Mawr, Mawr7a *45
10The Crimson King6c+ *20
11Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro)7a *22
12VIP Lunge6c 20
13Hostility Suite6c *43
14Aedan's Arete6a+ 33
 TRAVERSES AND LINK-UP'S  
16King Krab7a *2
17King Ada / Butcher Heinrich Combination7a+ *2
18King Ada / Strange Little Girl Combination6c **31
 RIGHT HAND WALL  
20Brucifer6b 35
21Take Your Pants To Heaven6c 15
22Gauge the Unknown6c+ 2
23Knickerless In Hell6b 7
24Holey Moses6a 17
25Where the Arc is it?6a 18
26Temples of Cwmaman5a 22
27Arch of the Last Craven Ant5c 11
 THE DUST CURTAIN  
29O.C. / D.C.6a 2
30Shale I Compare Thee?5a 10
31Play Dusty For Me5c 7
32Dustin Cough Man5c 6
33Dustin Crime6a+ 1
 QUEEN WALL  
35Queen Bee5c 20
36A Poxy Queen6a *25
37Slip Into The Queen6a+ 11
38Little Queen5c 21
39Sheer Heart Attack7a+ 22
40Deaf as a Post7a+ 7
41Killer Queen7a *23
42Queens of the Stone Age6b+ *17
43Drag Queen6a+ 13
44Raving Queen6b+ 19
45The Queen is Dead6b *14
46Drama Queen5c 9
 BOULDERING  
48OlivineV1 5
491 Inch PunchV0+ 4
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sign posts on rock saying "climbing prohibited". Rock is in clear sight so easy to get caught if you chance it.amazing looks awesome though! :(
Max Lowry - 31/Jan/15
Looks like the crucial side pull of killer queen has broken off. Likely much much harder now
Robheirene - 28/Aug/14
The block on Brucifer always looked dodgy but the tree eventually popped it off. The rest is stable. May have affected the grade very sightly only.
alan rosier - 12/Jan/10
Large (3/4 Ton) block has recently (September 2009) fallen off Brucifer. Hard to tell if any more is likely to fall. All other lines are uneffected.
Stu Jones - 21/Sep/09