Climbs 9
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

A dire (though perhaps improving) "one-star" quarry. Worthwhile in winter because it gets any sunshine and dries at once.

From ground level, the crag appears to look similar in style to the 'Main Wall' at 'The Gap', But, has many unique, sharp aretes and corners as well as blank faces which may include routes as hard, or even harder than 'Mad at the Sun' at The Gap.

Works in progress, stay of new lines until completed

Work is in progress here,old trad routes have been cleared of vegetation and single bolt belays installed. Any other lines are not completed,bolts not yet secured or loose rock removed.Please keep off them until posted as completed.

Approach notes

Lies N of Risca. From 0.5mi N of Cross Keys, turn R to Cwmcarn. At the Cwmcarn pub, turn R into Park St. Then take the next L to a parking spot.
>From a lane between garages, follow a path heading leftwards to the quarry.

Northbound on Newport Road (Cwmcarn) turn right into Park Street. Take the second of two very minor lanes on the left. Park considerately before reaching the junction of Wood Street. Walk uphill on a mud track through the garages and trending leftwards very steeply uphill for 50m. Do not attempt to climb here unless you intend on bringing, a static rope, ascenders, gloves, crow bar, secateurs, hammer, pegs, a lot of time and a good life insurance policy.
alan rosier - 11/May/09
parked up and walked between the garages along the back of some houses access road (where the bins are kept etc). continued left and up (parrallel with the road below and wandered on. did not find the crag...must be quite small as all of the land seems to slope gradually. will try to find it in the winter again when the leaves clear away. will take some photos when i get there.
Drunken_Springbok - 10/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Where there's A Killer *E3 5c  
2Face the Rap *E2 5c 1
3Rap Crap *E3 5c 1
4Squeaking Bats *E1 5b  
5Red With Rage *E3 5c  
6AfterlifeV5+ **1
7Lisa likes 67 *6b 1
8Yellow Tower *6b+ **1
9Soil Miner *6c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier