Pontesford Rocks

Climbs 43 – Rocktype Welsh igneous – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
ACCESS - Peregrines sometimes nest at this crag in Spring. Please keep away if the nests are in place. It isn't likely that any signs will be placed at the crag to warn people.

Set in the idyllic Shropshire hills and providing a concentration of lower grade climbs.There are both multi-pitch routes of up to 60m and single pitches of 15m.Recommended classics include Oak Tree Wall Direct (VD), Wall End Climb (VD), Finale Groove(VS), Varsity Buttress (VS) and The Superdirect (E1).

Nice little crag with excellent views. Routes are long enough to be interesting and the rock felt secure even in the middle of January. Descent is either a long walk-around or down a steep muddy gully; either way take a change of footwear unless you like tobogganing down slopes at speed. Couldn't see a 60m route, but will be back for another look. [Andrew Primrose 1/03]

Approach notes
As you enter the village of Pontesford on the A488, look for a tractor emporium on your left and immediately afterwards a small side road with a sign for the Earls Hill Nature Reserve.

Follow the single track road up to a car park on top of a small crest (room for about 7 cars).

After parking follow the path which forks almost immediately, take the left-hand path that runs down and around the hill. Walk for 15 minutes through woods and after you enter open grassland and go through a second gate take a path that heads off to the right from the main path up a steep scree slope.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.


Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2West WallM *52
3Direct Startnone 4c 28
4West CrackM 51
5Moonlight VariationD 67
6Eliminate GHS 4a 83
7Surplus Requirements-NotHVS 5a 15
8Oak Tree Wall DirectVD *196
9Lower TraverseS 19
10Right-Hand RouteVD 102
11Stoats ChimneyM 73
12Last PostVD 35
13Wall End climbVD *108
14Kit Hill King *E1 5a 6
15Wall End Slab DirectS 11
16Wall End Climb The Notch VariationS 4a *34
17Finale GrooveVS 4b **110
19AwakenVS 5a *12
21Right Hand WallM 24
22Direct RouteS 4a *66
23The SuperdirectE1 5a *30
24PossumE2 5b *22
25Hawthorne CrackS 4a *54
26Indirect RouteM 21
27Needle GirdleD 4
29Girdle Traverse of Fifty Foot WallHVS 1
30Fifty Foot Wall TraverseV2  
31Varsity ButtressVS 4b *49
32Vive La WombatE2 5b  
33EpiglottisVS 5a *20
34East ClimbS 17
35Lonesome TravellerVS 3
36Varsity Left-HandE2 5b * 
37TracheaE1 5a *3
38Crow's Nest ChimneyD 3
39Inominate CrackVD 2
40Inominate WallVD 1
41Inominate RibD 2
42Box ClimbVD 1
43hawthorn crackS 4a 20
44OTE MealE1 5a 1
45Girdle TraverseS 2
47Hidden RidgeM 3
48Jackdaw RidgeVD 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alex Thompson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
been up to pontesford today on a recon mission as iv never climbed here before, looks a decent little crag, walk in isn't as bad as I had been led to believe. cant wait to get some time in here and get some routes logged....
Supadeano86 - 22/Apr/14
In case you don't already know, the West Midlands Rock website (http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/) has died a death... :(
Alex Thompson - 16/Nov/12
If anyone visits soon, could you please get some photos of the unstable rocks around Wall End Climb?
Alex Thompson - 01/Jul/12
A block equivalent in size to a rather large fitted oven currently nestled in the middle of the tree belay at the top of the second pitch of Wall End Climb. Only wiewed from West Crack and didn't really want to get any closer to it today.
D Berry - 01/Jul/12
The rock is generally solid but an undisturbed football sized boulder tumbled down on 2nd Feb '12, probably due to freeze-thaw action. We didn't investigate whether there's more to come down.
Claudia - 08/Feb/12
Shropshire wildlife trust have now put up signs by Wall End climb requesting people not to climb this route (and one's nearby) in order not to disturb the nest site. They have also (we believe) chalked an arrow and the words 'nesting birds, no climbing here' onto the crag near Wall End. We brushed the arrow and part of the writing off in an attempt to reduce the impact but the whole lot could do with brushing off.
groovy_nut - 22/Apr/10
There is currently a nest site on the right side of the crag (Finale Groove area) (April 2010) so please be aware and avoid climbing in this area for the next couple of months.
groovy_nut - 19/Apr/10
Guidebook and update are available online: http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/pontesford_pdf_1995guide.pdf http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/pontesford_pdf_update.pdf
Alex Thompson - 23/Jul/09
A pleasant venue. Varsity Buttress (the green-looking wall reached en route to the main crag) needs some traffic - there are some good middle grade routes here that have all but disappeared under the soil and vegetation, probably because the lower wall is steep and lacking in pro. It's a good alternative to the main wall, especially when that area is being used as a toproping/adventure rope course/toilet by school parties....
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05
Not very good in the wet. The superdirect is the best climb by along way!
Rob - 06/Dec/04
I forgot the link in my previous comment. http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/
loco_ola - 09/Aug/04
There is no guide book that i could find for these rocks since the "West Midland Rock" went out of print. However you can get the information off their website for this crag. Be warned however the guide is mainly descriptive with no decent maps, but worth having anyway. Crags themselves are in a beautiful setting, some of the harder climbs on the "Needle" have no protection which is why they are rated harder than perhaps they should be. The guide gives fairly soft difficulty ratings, but there is still lots of fun to be had at these crags.
loco_ola - 09/Aug/04
This place is becoming a regular with me now because the setting makes up for a lot. It'a a really nice place for a couple of climbs during the day or in the evening. Even met a couple of Worcester climbers who usually went to North Wales, but decided to give this place a go and in their opinion it was a little treasure if you wanted to get some weekend climbing in and a lot nearer than North Wales. The routes on closer inspection, are suprisingly interesting and I've already had to back off a groove with little protection and climb up on the its right side. I would have got away with it too, if the guy belaying next to me hadn't pointed out, as my second struggled up the groove, that that wasn't the way I'd come. About half the routes are multi-pitch but the top half of these climbs can get a bit Covent Garden like. Also a place to bring a tin hat, since the last time I was there since I nearly took a direct hit from a rock dislodged by a guy belaying above me, and one of the gullies was spitting out rocks all day.
Andrew Primrose - 10/Mar/03