Southstone Rock

Climbs 17 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 80m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
And now for something completely different! A small limestone outcrop reaching a maximum height of 15m. Physical Attraction (E2) and Over and Over (E1) on the steep Main Face provide the greatest interest. Despite being unsuitable for leading, there are also many other interesting routes to climb and many new ones to be found too. A scrubbing brush would be handy to remove the overgrowth towards the top of many climbs. [Simon Wragg]

This is very much a venue for local climbers with some additional bouldering in Back Canyon for the strong.

Access notes
Leave the B4203 at Stanford Bridge and head south on the minor rd to reach a small layby for parking after 1 mile. Park by gate and walk along right-hand side of stream. Follow path over five-bar gate. Fork off to left, rocks are right beside stream. In the wooods are many fallen trees and it can be very overgrown, so don't be suprised if you can't find it at first.

Hi iv found a postcode for the lane entrance of WR6 6ER (supadeano86 2013)

An alternate entry is of the B4204 from either Martley or Tenbury to Sapey Common. There is a bend in the road here where you need to follow the lane of it downhill (for 1/4 mile) to a farm where there is a public footpath marked. Follow this into the woods (for 1/2 mile or so) and the crag can be seen on the right after passing a footbridge which is also on the right. Further down will be the fork going right, follow this to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
10Move On UpHVS 5a
11WhingerVS 4b
12Back Canyon WallHVS 5a **
13The Back Canyon Traversef5+
14Waking the Bearf6B **
15Corner Shop *f5+
16Man on a Ledge *f3+
17Switcheroo *f6A
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TobyA

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With some cleaning and some bolting this place has so much potential!
JamesLloyd - 18/Jun/14
A few of my friends cleaned up some of the boulders here and spent time making a few quick problems. Nothing hard, more warm ups than anything but still nice to have a play round on if you live close. This place has potential, it just needs cleaning up (a lot). Hopefully there will be more problems added soon but heres a quick vid of the ones we've added so far https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtkPa5lwVYQ
aciddan - 11/May/14
Off up to south stone today for first time lets see what it brings
Supadeano86 - 08/Jul/13
good for a day out localy quite grimey but total manageable.hard to find. I parked in rock road and walked for a good half a mile downwards into the woods.keap going downhill till you get to the stream and you will hopefully see it on the right. great history of the place talking to the local dog walkers and they say the monks used to go there to meditate.I can understand why it is realy peacefull nice place to be.
theNocker - 07/Jan/12
I thought it looked brilliant, main face slightly dirty but still lots of grip when its dry. Back cannon looked awesome, and clean! However I can't fined any logged routes in back cannon as there are none on this website or in the print-off guide book, does anyone know any? Surprising as I thought back cannon looked like the best bit!
Mike Hood - 18/Jul/11
The rock is filthy, but only because it has never been cleaned - so what do you expect!!! Actually it is reasonably sound in many places under the muck. Would yield a few short interesting climbs worthy of an afternoon if a couple of bolts were put in it. There is a bit of half decent bouldering about too. I thought it was a beautiful and very interesting place. If I lived in the area I'd put a bit of effort in to making it climbable. After all, some lines in the peak get re-cleaned every spring, come on folks - get on it - it's not as if this area is spoilt for options on climabable rock.
Dominic Green - 31/Oct/08
There's some great scenary around here, and the walk down to the rocks is very nice. Unfortunately the rock is just bad quality!! However there is free parking at the last house on the right before the concrete ramp down to the public path - the lady there says that anyone is free to park on the grass outside her gate :)
steve3489 - 20/Oct/07
Thought I'd take a look as I don't live too far away and fancied something local as an alternative to walls. So today I took the mutt for a strole to this crag. Well I've limited climbing experience but even I could see that this was a pile of c**p. I don't even know why it's listed on this site, okay it's a rock but that's it. Even if the vegetation is cleared you'd need a severe jet-wash to get me even touching the rock. Judging by the stuff left around, the only people who frequent this place just want somewhere out of the way for their sex, drugs and alcohol. I'll never subject me or my dog to this tip again!
crezzer - 22/Sep/06
Only live 45 minutes drive away, but would not return to this crag if you paid me. Not the place for arachnophobics like myself. Very dirty and virtually no opportunity to lead. Some routes may be interesting if only they were a bit cleaner. It was however in a pleasant, albeit forbidding setting, and not surprisingly we had the crag to ourselves. It may be useful for local climbers to practise top roping and abseils, but not much else.
Adam Tyler - 01/Jun/04
on first viewing the cliff looks like it is plastered in chalk, this is in fact cobwebs they're everywhere!!! This cliff is definatly only for a very local climber with little else to do
dylan burgess - 28/May/04
this place is utter cack the routes are dirty and best left for the spiders (as you approach it looks like its covered in chalk but its actually cobwebs)
dylan burgess - 21/May/04
Live ten mins down the road from Southstone Rock and have driven past the place on my way to work every day for the last 2 years never knew it was there!! I am in the process of moving a lot of the logs and rubbish that was around the place and cleaning up a few of the climbs. Not the greatest climbing place but very handy for anyone who lives locally.
Neil - 27/Oct/03
Plenty of trees above the crag, for those wishing to set up bottom ropes. Not much in the way of placements for leading. Certainly worth a look if you are in the area. Very quiet and secluded area, good for a coupla hours play.
Cally N - 30/Aug/02
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These details were last updated on 24/Jun/2013

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