Ilkley (Rocky Valley)

Climbs 130 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
North Facing so get the right conditions or suffer the consequences.

This Ain't the quarry........

The Bouldering described in the TC guide is also described by a Topo which I have uploaded as a Photo (see below)

Access notes
Rocky Valley lies approximately 800m W of the better-known Cow and Calf area. Car Park 100m from the Cow & Calf rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away. Allow 50 min for the walk.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
YMC Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 2 (2014), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2008), Northern England (2008), Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (2001), Yorkshire Gritstone (1999)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NUMBER ONE BUTTRESS  
2Cooper's SlabD *45
3Private LineE3 6a  
4BeelineHVS 5a ***129
5Beyond The FringeE5 6a *18
6WiseguysE8 6c ** 
7Little A ClimbS 4a 65
8Herbacious Border VariationVS 4c 6
9Dot's CracksS 4a 12
 NUMBER TWO BUTTRESS  
11StictionVS 4c 11
12Stiction ChimneyVD *50
13NordwandE2 5b *9
14Scoop and HoleHVS 5a **14
15Forgotten AreteE3 6a  
16Superb Too RightE6 6c **1
17BerserkerE2 5b **13
18Am I Brown?E1 5b 3
19The StridHS 4b 34
20The Strid (Direct)VS 4c 11
21Flypaperf4 **18
22V Groovef5 *4
23Ivor the EngineHVS 5c  
24Jones The SteamHVS 5b  
 NUMBER THREE BUTTRESS  
26Pink, Ginger and IrishE3 5c  
27Black ChimneyD *35
28MinigripE2 5b  
29Three Slabs RouteMS **253
30Three Slabs ChimneyVD  
31Sod Itf6A * 
32Bogey Wallf4+ **23
33HadesHVS 5b *15
34Peach MelbaE6 6b  
35The Flake ClimbS 4a ***277
36Gremlin's WallE4 6b 1
37Oak Tree SlabMS 81
38Oak Tree CrackHS 4b 27
39Crack And WallVS 4c 5
40SpiralS 4a *8
 NUMBER FOUR BUTTRESS  
42Rockin' Valley AreteE5 6a * 
43Sentry BoxS 4a *96
44Sentry Box (Direct)VS 4c *55
45KestrelVS 4c *31
46My First ObsessionE2 5b  
47Shock HorrorE6 6b **16
48Rodney MullenE9 6c *** 
49Slide ZoneE4 6a * 
50Throstle's Nest ClimbHS 4b 6
51Twin CracksHVS 5a *21
52SomersaultVS 4c **65
53Long ChimneyD ***122
54Long Chimney DirectVD **45
55The LinkS 4a 7
56Walker's HangoverHVS 5a ***55
57Sound BoxMVS 4b 15
58The Tremor Wall FinishHVS 5b  
59Tombstone CrackMVS 4b *13
60La PetiteS 1
 NUMBER FIVE BUTTRESS  
62Dale's DelightMS 5
63Blasphemy CrackHS 4b *24
64The ChuteS 4a 18
65Gym CrackHVS 5b *21
66SylviaE3 5c *11
67VestigeE3 6a * 
68SylvesteE2 5b **39
69VesteE1 5b 26
70Cat Like ThiefE1 5c  
71Go BetweenE1 5c  
72String VestHVS 5a *3
73Uncle VesterE4 6a * 
74Fat Flossin'E1 5c  
75Little B RouteS 4a 5
76DionysiusE3 6a  
77BeetrootHVS 5b 4
 NUMBER SIX BUTTRESS  
79Fear of a Failed RaceE5 6a  
80Catapult CrackVS 4c *8
81Blue Meanies Tea PartyE3 5c  
82Sunburst FinishE5 6a  
83Ruby ParrotE3 5c *1
84GutsieVS 4c 5
85Stump ChimneyVS 4b 4
86Diamond DogsE3 5c *1
87Blind ValleyE3 5c ***14
88Blind FaithE4 6a ** 
89Countdown to DisasterE8 6b ***1
90Brush CrackS 4a *17
91ArrowheadS 4a *14
92Lady Mabel RouteVD 4
93Taj MahalVD 5
94Windy ButtressVS 5a 3
95S RouteVD 8
96The OgreVS 4c **8
97The CenturionE5 6a  
98MatchboxHS 4b 10
99Smog WallHS 4b 1
100Smog MonsterE3 6b  
101Overhanging Chockstone CrackD 5
102Double Chockstone CrackS 54a 11
103Spreading the DiseaseE3 6b * 
104Holly Tree RouteD 39
105Spread-eagleHS 4b **61
106Eagle EyedVS 4b ** 
107Bird of PreyE1 5b 2
108Bald EagleE3 5c **5
109Illegitimate CrackVS 4c ***135
110TricyclistE2 6a  
111CyclistE4 6a  
112Rag SlabHVD 4
113Too FarS 6a 1
 BOULDERING  
 YMC AREA ONE  
 TC AREA 1 - CLUBBER LANG  
117Clubber Langf7B *12
 TC AREA 2 - ROCKY BALBOA  
119Thunderlips; The Ultimate Malef7B ***3
120Rockyf7A *2
121The Italian Stallionf7B *2
 YMC AREA TWO  
 TC AREA 3 - A CRIMSON TEAR  
124Sweet Dreamsf8A *5
125Sweet Dreams standing startf7B **3
 TC AREA 4 - ENERGY FOLLOWS THOUGHT  
127Body Rockerf7A 8
128Energy Follows Thoughtf7B 4
129UgV3 *1
130HyborianV5 *1
 TC AREA 5 - CARNIVORE ROAMING  
132Side Skirtf6C+ 1
133Up the Skirtf7A+ 5
134Dobbo's Traversef6B 1
135You JestV2 1
136Scout Wallf6A *1
137Beyond Bordersf7A 3
138Fa Kin Su Paf6B 4
139Bloc Beside Fa Kin Su PaV3 1
140Off LedgeV2 2
141Easy WallV1 *2
142Small AreteV0 1
143A Carnivore Roamingf7B **1
 TC AREA 6 - POLAR HAZE  
145Polar Hazef7B ***1
 NOT CHECKED / UNKNOWN  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peteJ23

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
On 27/05/2013 a large block became detached on the lower section of 'The Flake Climb', trapping a climbers arm. Required the help of fire service and mountain rescue to extract him. The block was left held up by wedges inserted by the fire service. Three local notables did their BMC duty and have removed the block that had trapped the chap's arm. 5th June 2013.
peteJ23 - 08/Aug/14