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Ivy Scar Rock West Midlands, ENGLAND
Climbs 10 – Rocktype Diorites – Altitude ? – Faces E
A compact outcrop which reaches a maximum height of 16m. Ivy Buttress(HS)is about the best of a small number of climbs. Reasonably popular with organised groups and provides the best concentration of climbing that the Malvern Hills can offer. Other craglets and quarries can be found along the length of the Malvern Hills, all of which are detailed in the guide, but there is little to tempt the serious climber.
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Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)
Climbs at this crag
Ivy Scar Rock is easily approached via the footpath leading south from the Clock Tower car park in Great Malvern.
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This is one of our local climbs and is well worth a visit. Only good for top roping really. The two best climbs are The Butress and Poison Ivy. There are a lot of slopers and some tricky bits of rock. What appears to be an easy climb from first view is much more challenging when attempted. Poison Ivy has a good section of crack climbing which requires laybacks.
I will be going there again this weekend.
Ad Shaw - 28/Apr/11
Overall the crag is grubby but crucial hand and footholds tend to be clean.
Ivy Buttress is OK although two stars is pushing it. It has some gear (two small nuts can be placed on the crux). The Sidle has gear (nuts and small cams), but none look particularly convincing.
TobyA - 29/Jul/10
Truly rubbish.Probably the worst bit of rock i have ever climbed on. Unprotectable, sloping, awkward, loose, lichenous.
The Pylon King - 23/Jun/10
Surprisingly pleasant little venue. Easily accessible with nice views. Catches the morning sun.
Leading is akin to soloing here, except for The Sidle and Strong Persuader, which appear to be protectable. The latter is actually a rather good route, by the way, as is Ivy Buttress Direct.
crossdressingrodney - 30/Mar/09
Best to always use a top rope on Ivy Scar as the rock can be a little fragile and is often green with lichen. A great place to take beginners to give them a feeling of height and "real" holds if you are in the area.
alw650 - 17/Sep/07
I tried leading a route here once- I think it would have been Ivy Scar, and it was one of the worst experiences of my climbing life- luckily the one piece of pro was in about the right place, but it's all decidely harder than it looks. Perhaps 'getting used' to the rock would temper it somewhat, but it gave me a fright, when I was expecting a breeze!
Ander - 09/Jun/04