Quarried off-vertical sandstone, a sort of urban Pex Hill giving technical fingery and dynamic climbing. Good routes particularly at English 5c 6a with plenty of new routing prospects (mainly at higher grades). Classics are No19/20/20 Ron Davies trilogy 4c/5a, No26 Scotties mob....5c, or No31 Tick talk 6a. For those in to dynos, try No9 North face of the AGA 6a, also called Big Daves Double Dyno. [Neil Davies]
Plenty of room for development especially at higher grades but note access restrictions.
Property is owned by rail company Sustrans. Climbing allowed on condition that no more development takes place beyond agreed limits (from the LH end of the first bridge). Breaking this stipulation could lose out on miles of climbable rock!
Access from N at Mill Lane via the old station, or from S via top end of Walkers playing fields on Eaton Rd.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Wall Route||f6A 5b||1|
|3||Blue string soup dragon||VB 5b||1|
|4||The Tuebrook Line||f6B 5c|
|5||Stonefight at the OK coral||f6C 6a *|
|6||North face of the AGA||f6B+ 6a||1|
|7||The Lazy V||f5 4c **||2|
|8||Number 16||f3 *||1|
|9||Rockin' Ron||f6A 5b||1|
|10||Left Sleeve||f5+ 5a||2|
|11||Ron Davies' shirt||f5 4c||2|
|12||Right Sleeve||f5+ 5a||2|
|13||Eye in The Sky||f6A 5a||2|
|14||Scotties Mob Where are you now?||f3 **||1|
|15||Tick Talk||f6B+ 6a||1|
|16||Mum in a million||f6A 5b||1|
|17||Chicken Dinner||f5+ 5a||2|
|18||Torque Like an Egyptian||f6A 5b||1|
|19||The Agony and the Ecstasy||f3 5c||2|
|20||No name?, No need||f6A 5b||1|
|21||Back step||f6A 5a||2|
|22||Super Scooper||f6C 6a|
|23||Two Step||f5+ 5a||2|
|24||Thanks Rich Gray||f6B 5c||1|
|25||The Red Baron Flies Again||f6A+ 5c||1|
|26||Arrow Head Left||f3 4b /6a||2|
|27||Gaffa||f6A 5c **|
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