A big quarry above the village of Ynyshir on the west side of the valley.The crag offers a mixture of groove's arete's and walls,like all new sandstone crags there is some superficial loose rock which will reduce with traffic.The crag is a morning sun trap and apart from the three routes on the far right-hand side which seep after prolonged rain,the rest tends to stay dry.
Follow the A4233 for a mile out of Porth passing the Station pub on the right,turn sharp left 100 metres past the pub,then a sharp right into Graig rd, park considerately at the gap half way along the road.
Walk through the gap between the houses,bear left then back right to reach the crag. approx 5mins.
Peregrines are presently nesting and the Countryside Council for Wales has imposed a climbing ban until the end of July. They will police the situation and updates will occur if any changes happen. (Info from BMC Rep SE Wales. Access link below will be added soon.) The area of rock between Dan'ds-Inferno and Sweet whistleing geronimo is banned from any development.
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
|1||Steely Dan||7b *||2|
|2||Rhod above the bridge||6b **||1|
|3||Road Whore||7a *||2|
|4||Banjo versus the pigeon||6b|
|5||Catch the Pigeon||6a+||8|
|6||Tricky Dickie Takes a Sickie||7b+||1|
|7||The Corner||HVS 5a|
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