Climbs 53
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 275m a.s.l
Faces W

lions jaw © jas wood

Crag features

A small edge of hard, quick-drying sandstone that lost some excellent climbs to a rockfall in 1995. Generally face climbing on small edges. Recommended routes: Zero Route (HVS 5a), Twin Cracks (S), Long Bow (VS 4c), Bowstring (HVS 5b).

Approach notes

No dogs.
>From Stokesley head east along minor roads past Easby towards the village of Kildale. After passing under the railway take the tarmac lane that leads right and onto the moor. Park just over the cattle grid.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Have to agree with Jacks comments about the loose rock at teh top of twin cracks. Quite disconcerting when you stand on it. Wouldn't recomend it to be honest. Nice little crag with enough to keep you busy for a few hours. Was very windy today, and the rock whilst dry was very cold! Must be a lovely spot in the summer. Shame the lines are so short.
martinph78 - 08/Nov/12
Lovely little crag with some very nice, though disappointingly short, lines. Great for breaking into the HVS grade, and nice for them days where everywhere else would be wet. Beware the wobbling block at the top of Twin Cracks, can be disconcerting. Also beware of extreme winds at the top of the crag, tell your partner to shout!
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Great Little Crag, with something for everyone. Quick Drying and in a nice location is it well worth a visit. There is also a boulder, called the NOS boulder that lies on the hillside down to the right of Park Nab over the fence. It is also worth a look as there are some 'Grit' like problems
DaveWarb - 13/Jan/08
One of the photos attached to this crag is actually Fontainbleau!
Simon Caldwell - 13/Jul/05
(13.04.05)After recent rainfall, there are several rocks that are now loose - in particular the large boulder at the top of 'Holly Tree Wall', this wobbles a fair bit and would be unsuitable to place any protection.
Bob Johnson - 14/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Kildale End 
2Slap Happy
-
HVS 6a *4
3WeetabixHVS 5c 2
4DangleE2 6a *12
5Martins DilemmaE1 6a 1
6Lions JawHVS 5b *20
7The Lion KingHVS 5c 24
8Zero RouteHVS 5a *69
9Cooks Gully-Left ChimneyM 84
10Cooks Gully Table Climb
-
M 68
11A Step ClassS 4b 77
12High Stepper
-
HVS 5b 20
13Dave Made Heather Go HomeM 6
14Forked CrackVD 130
15Achilles Last StandE2 5c/6a 13
16MowgliE1 5b 12
17BalooHS 4b 54
18Grumble in the JungleVD 99
19BagheeraE1 5b 4
20Twisting ChimneyD 9
21TwisterE4 5c 7
22One Day as a Tiger MothVS 4c *1
23Twin CracksHS 4b **272
24Twin Cracks (Left Crack Only)
-
none 5a 39
25Twin Cracks (Right Crack Only)
-
none 4b 49
26Twin Cracks (Neither Crack)
-
none 5c 3
27DynamoE2 6b 4
 Ladies Gully 
29Left GullyD *128
30Right CrackS 4a 93
 The Pinnacle 
32Pinnacle Crack EliminateHVS 5a 10
33Pinnacle Crack-Left HandD *109
34Pinnacle Crack-Right HandS 4a 85
35Pinnacle FaceE1 5b *29
36Chairman's ClimbHVS 4c **117
37Chairman's Climb (direct start)HVS 5a **8
38Chockstone ChimneyD 139
 Jack's Wall 
40Wall Bar ButtressS 4a *232
41Wall Bar Buttress (Left Crack Only)
-
HS 4b 54
42Parallel LinesVS 4c *49
43Picture ThisHVS 5a *49
44Scoop ChimneyVD *133
45PessimistE3 5c 13
46Pessimist Variation Finish
-
E2 5b 6
47Hara-KiriHVS 5a **175
48Hara-Kiri DirectHVS 5b 30
49BeanlandHVS 5a 7
50Long BowVS 4c **261
51BowstringHVS 5a *117
52The Bitter EndHVS 5c *27
53A Harder StartE1 6a 8
54The EndVS 5a *73
55The Very End
-
VD 33
56The Girdle Traverse
-
none 4c *10
57Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c *4

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