Climbs 268
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

  • Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.
  • The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).
  • Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.
  • Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.
  • Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.
  • Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and cSAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions These include, - No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from the dale top. - No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality. - Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars. - Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. - Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chee Tor East 
2The Glorious Ninth
-
E3 5c **4
3Flying Circus
-
E2 5b 1
4Too Tame For The Trouble7a 1
5White Life
-
E4 6a **2
6Blanc de Blancs
-
E4 6a  
7Kumquat8b **2
8White Out
-
E4 6a * 
9White Death
-
E4 6a  
10Truffles7c * 
 Chee Tor 
12Scratch Your Eyes Out
-
E3 6a  
13Shake Hands With the Octopus
-
E5 6c  
14White Gold7a ***47
15Nobody's HeroE5 6b * 
16What Aches?
-
E3 5c  
17The MyrmidonE5 6b **2
18Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
-
E4 6a  
19Koroblin
-
E1 5b 1
20Switch
-
E2 6a 1
21The Ape Escape
-
E4 6a  
22The Ogre8a ***5
23Igor7c * 
24Kriklet's Cancer
-
E6 6b  
25Tec
-
E1 5b 5
26Oblomov
-
E2 5b 8
27Rasputin
-
E1 5a,5b  
28Two SunspotsE2 5c **107
29Midnight Summer DreamE5 6a **46
30Midnight at the OasisE6 6b  
31Blind Alleys
-
E4 5c 6
32SergeyennaE1 5b **167
33Heart of DarknessE3 5c *43
34HergianiE2 5b *145
35Tropic of CancerE1 5a,5c,  
36Absent FriendsE3 5c **156
37NostradamusE1 5b *178
38A Widespread Lack of Imagination
-
E3 6a 1
39Rave OnE3 5c **90
40Boobs8a **3
41Boo7c+ **1
42Tequila MockingbirdE6 6b ***8
43Basic Channel8a * 
44The Freeman Trap6c+  
45Mantrap7b+  
46The Poverty Trap7b  
47The Freedom TrapE5 6b  
48Eyes of FireE6 6c **1
49Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***108
50Books on the Bonfire
-
E6 6b  
51The Golden MileE5 6b ***40
52The Dream MileE5 6b ** 
53ApocalypseE4 6a ***47
54AlfrescoHVS 5b 33
55One NightE1 5b *8
56SuddenlyE5 6b 2
57Less Than ZeroE3 5c *42
58Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
-
E3 5c, 6b **3
59MeditationE1 5b ***279
60Valentine (pitch 1)E1 5b *44
61Valentine/One Night Connection
-
E1 5a, 5b *3
62ApproachingE3 5c **57
63The Messiah
-
E4 6a 2
64Valentine
-
E3 5a, 5b *13
65CeramicE4 5c ***86
66Ceramic ExtensionE5 6a ***11
67TerrorcottaE6 6c *1
68LaughingE6 6b **1
69Splintered PerspexE3 6a **92
70A Nasty Farming Accident7b *1
71Great Central RouteE2 5c **141
72Of YouthE3 5c *38
73Highway 57
-
E1 5b 4
74ShakeE1 5b *52
75Two GenerationsE6 6b  
76Captain Ahab7b+  
77Body LineE4 6a *3
78AutobahnE5 6b **19
79Lily StreetE5 6b 2
80Queer StreetE3 6a ***100
8142nd StreetE3 5c **122
82Pheasant Plucker
-
E2  
83Duel in the SunE5 6b **1
84Moby Dick7c * 
85Theology7c ** 
86Sunny Goodge StreetE2 5b *79
87HatredE4 5c 4
88The Last Laugh
-
HVS 5a 3
89Pink Panther
-
E5 6a 2
90Grinning Chimney
-
HVS 5b 4
91Hooligans
-
E3 5c  
92Match of the DayE2 5c *64
93Goal of the MonthE3 5c *64
94The ChopperVS 5a *70
95Sleepwalkers
-
HVS 5b 7
96Pleasant Dreams
-
HVS 5c 5
97RapeE2 5b *62
98Gulle Gulle GrooveVS 4c *88
99FlycatcherE1 5b *69
100Snap DragonE5 6b **14
101Leering WallHVS 5b *115
102Dagenham DaveE1 5b 29
103Clive's RouteVS 4c 24
104Switch
-
E3 6a 2
105ChangelingE4 6a 1
106Doggone GrooveVS 4b 67
107What Aches?
-
E4 6a 3
108Otaix
-
E1 5b 7
109Negative Earth
-
E1 5b 1
110Chee Tor GirdleVS 5a ***291
111Puppets
-
E1 5b 6
 Dog's Dinner Buttress 
113Dogfight7c+  
114Scooby Snacks7a+ *8
115Shake the Tail6b 4
116Wag the Dog6c 4
117Tail Shake
-
6b *1
118Turkey Lurking7b+ *5
119Baffled by Water Wings
-
E4 6b 2
120Learning to SwimE4 6b 1
121My Dog DillE5 6a * 
122Go Cat7a **12
123Dog Dirt7c 2
124In the Drink6c *10
125Cat Lick7b 3
126Little CurverE1  
 Dogs Bouldering 
128Pedigree Chum8c+ *** 
129Finest Pedigree9a+ *** 
130Dogs Dinner cross through problemf7A+ **2
131Sidepulls sitstartf7A+ 1
132Dinner timef7B *1
133α (Alpha)f7C **1
 The Cornice 
135Ophelias Lobelia
-
7b+  
136Forehead Trombone7b+ *6
137Trombone Practice8a 2
138Sharp Practice8a+ ** 
139Masculine Power Trip8a+ ** 
140Mescaline Power Trip8a ** 
141Wright-On7c+ *1
142Wright to Left7c **1
143Taylor Made7c **27
144Feminine Ego Trip8a 3
145Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish)8a 1
146Feminine ego trip - clematis
-
8a *1
147Nemesis8a+ ***21
148Bricktop8b ***11
149Clematis8b **3
150Monumental Armblaster8a+ ***7
151Malcolm X8b+ ** 
152Malcolm Armblaster8b **1
153Last Eggs Before the M17c+ 2
154Gran Techo8b ***8
155Techno Prisoners8b+ ***3
156The Jug Jockey7c+ ***28
157Easy Rider7c+ *4
158Dreadnaught8c *** 
159The Roof Warrior8a ***44
160Cry of Despair7c ***115
161Rapid City8a *6
162That was the River7b+ **57
163Streamline7c+ 1
164This is the Sea7c+ *34
165Old Man River7b **105
166Zippy's Direct Finish7b+ 24
167Dirty Old Man7c+ 5
168The Naive and Sentimental Lover7b+ **16
169Up the River Without a Paddle6c+ **132
170Snails of the Riverbank7b **61
171The Spiders from Mars6b 68
172The Monday Club7a+ 6
173Trampled Underfoot7a *11
174Gardener's Question Time7a *3
175Rue Morgue
-
E4 6a 9
176The Goldfish7a+ * 
177After the Goldfish
-
7a+ *6
178Crowd Control7c *7
179Une Crime PassionelE4 6a **39
180A Basic Power ProblemE6 6b  
181FeyE4 5c *8
182War Memorial6c *248
183Succubus7b+ **48
184ShazamE4 6a *7
185Martial Music7a **288
186Martial Call6c+ *15
187Clarion Call7a ***396
188Poppy Fields7b+ *7
189Armistice Day7a+ **201
190Whose Line is it Anyway?7a+ ***224
191Big StoreE5 6b *4
192Egyptian BizarreE5 6b *7
193Big Zipper7b **166
194Beelzebub7b+ *9
195Bored of the Lies7b+ ***139
196Bored into Beelzebub7b+ *4
197Ouijaboard8a **23
198Four Door Dostoyevsky8a+ **8
199Powerplant8a ***127
200Powerpants8a *4
201Devonshire Arms8a+ **6
202Powerarms8b *2
203Devonshire army8a+ *2
204K38a+ ***32
205K58b *8
206K28b+ * 
207428b * 
208328b+ **4
209R'n'P8a+ ***19
210Body Snatchers8b **1
211Snatch8b **2
212Barney Ragin'8b+ **4
213Love Amongst the Butterflies8b ***5
214Asia Shadow Player8b ** 
215Somehow Super8c * 
216Unleashing the Wild Physique8a ***34
217Cosmopolitan7b+ **83
218Cordless Madness7c **82
219Mandy7b+ *38
220Flowers in the Dirt7b *6
221The Third Order7b **24
222Loco7b+ *5
223Too Pumpy for Grumpy7b+ 5
224Further Adventures in Greendale6c *246
225Old Man's GambitE2 5c 1
226The Corniceman7a+ **102
227Jelly Fingers
-
HVS 5a  
228Vandal
-
VS 4c 1
229Whitebeam
-
E1 5c  
230Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
-
HS 4a  
231Ezekiel Stool
-
E1 5b  
232Um Bongo
-
E4 6b  
233Led Up the Garden Path
-
E1 5b  
234Flash Harry
-
E4 5c  
235Too Jugless for Douglas
-
E4 6b 1
236Subversive
-
E2 5b  
237Fibrin
-
VS 4c  
238Rinky Dinky
-
E1 5c 1
239The 'too small for the tall' Wall
-
E5 6b  
240Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
-
7b+  
241Skin-flick
-
7c+  
 Rhubarb Buttress 
243The Way of the Gone Wives6b+ 3
244Custard Pie in yer Eye6c 1
245Cry Havoc6c 1
246Fallout Zone6c 2
247Gaseous Exchange6c+ *2
248Chemical Weapons7a *6
249Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb6b+ *21
250Semolina Sunday6c+ 2
251The Bee's KneesE1 5a 2
252A Laugh a Minute
-
E5 6a  
253The Garlic Twist6b+ *24
254Brief Camouflage6c *13
255The Day of the Long KnivesE6 6b  
256Feline Fine6c *11
257Fat Ginger Cat7a+ *4
258Turbo-charged Monster Mouse7a *3
259Thrash Your Woodie7b *3
260Me Tarzan7b+ 1
261De Vine8a **1
262Zebedee Visits the ClinicE6 6b  
263Blue-arsed Fly
-
E6 6c  
264The Rainmaker7b+  
265Bloodworm
-
E3 6a 1
266Blood LustE2 5c *5
267Bad BloodE5 6a  
268Blood TransfusionE5 6b  
269Lady's Finger7a+ * 
270The European Female7a *9
271Moonflower
-
E4 6a  
272Naiad
-
E1 5b  
273Nip the Nippon
-
E2 5b 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian