Climbs 269
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Dylan, Nemesis 8a+, Cheedale Cornice © Paul B

Crag features

Chee Dale Lower refers to the crags in Chee Dale which are generally approach from Milldale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.

Approach notes

The revised access routes are:

  • Plum Buttress – Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.
  • The 2nd and 3rd Lifts – Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).
  • Moving Buttress – Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.
  • Long Wall – Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.
  • Two-Tier Buttress – Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.
  • Nettle Buttress – Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone North (2015)
In June/July 2016 an effort was made to replace a lot of the in-situ gear, be that threads on the routes or anchors at the lower-offs. As a result, many of the routes have received a lot of traffic and are - as a result - in good 'clean' condition (as opposed to their usual quite dusty/dirty condition). In short, if you're reading this message now get down there ASAP!!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 03/Jul/16
The path back from the 'proper footbridge' is now very overgrown (with nettles!) Better to use the fallen tree.
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Chee Tor East 
2The Glorious Ninth
-
E3 5c **4
3Flying Circus
-
E2 5b 1
4Too Tame For The Trouble7a 4
5White Life
-
E4 6a **2
6Blanc de Blancs
-
E4 6a  
7Kumquat8b **4
8White Out
-
E4 6a * 
9White Death
-
E4 6a  
10Truffles7c *2
 Chee Tor 
12Scratch Your Eyes Out
-
E3 6a  
13Shake Hands With the Octopus
-
E5 6c  
14White Gold7a ***55
15Nobody's HeroE5 6b * 
16What Aches?
-
E3 5c  
17The MyrmidonE5 6b **2
18Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters
-
E4 6a  
19Koroblin
-
E1 5b 1
20Switch
-
E2 6a 1
21The Ape Escape
-
E4 6a  
22The Ogre8a ***10
23Igor7c * 
24Kriklet's Cancer
-
E6 6b  
25Tec
-
E1 5b 5
26Oblomov
-
E2 5b 8
27Rasputin
-
E1 5a,5b  
28Two SunspotsE2 5c **115
29Midnight Summer DreamE5 6a **47
30Midnight at the OasisE6 6b  
31Blind Alleys
-
E4 5c 6
32SergeyennaE1 5b **183
33Heart of DarknessE3 5c *46
34HergianiE2 5b *159
35Tropic of CancerE1 5a,5c,  
36Absent FriendsE3 5c **180
37NostradamusE1 5b *195
38A Widespread Lack of Imagination
-
E3 6a 1
39Rave OnE3 5c **112
40Boobs8a **7
41Boo7c+ **1
42Tequila MockingbirdE6 6b ***17
43Basic Channel8a * 
44The Freeman Trap6c+  
45Mantrap7b+  
46The Poverty Trap7b  
47The Freedom TrapE5 6b  
48Eyes of FireE6 6c **1
49Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***118
50Books on the Bonfire
-
E6 6b  
51The Golden MileE5 6b ***42
52The Dream MileE5 6b ** 
53ApocalypseE4 6a ***61
54AlfrescoHVS 5b 35
55One NightE1 5b *9
56SuddenlyE5 6b 2
57Less Than ZeroE3 5c *46
58Less Than Zero/Valentine Connection
-
E3 5c, 6b **3
59MeditationE1 5b ***306
60Valentine (pitch 1)E1 5b *58
61Valentine/One Night Connection
-
E1 5a, 5b *4
62ApproachingE3 5c **65
63The Messiah
-
E4 6a 2
64Valentine
-
E3 5a, 5b *13
65CeramicE4 5c ***94
66Ceramic ExtensionE5 6a ***12
67TerrorcottaE6 6c *1
68LaughingE6 6b **1
69Splintered PerspexE3 6a **105
70A Nasty Farming Accident7b *1
71Great Central RouteE2 5c **154
72Of YouthE3 5c *38
73Highway 57
-
E1 5b 4
74ShakeE1 5b *54
75Two GenerationsE6 6b  
76Captain Ahab7b+  
77Body LineE4 6a *3
78AutobahnE5 6b **21
79Lily StreetE5 6b 2
80Queer StreetE3 6a ***107
8142nd StreetE3 5c **139
82Pheasant Plucker
-
E2  
83Duel in the SunE5 6b **1
84Moby Dick7c * 
85Theology7c ** 
86Sunny Goodge StreetE2 5b *86
87HatredE4 5c 4
88The Last Laugh
-
HVS 5a 3
89Pink Panther
-
E5 6a 2
90Grinning Chimney
-
HVS 5b 4
91Hooligans
-
E3 5c  
92Match of the DayE2 5c *67
93Goal of the MonthE3 5c *71
94The ChopperVS 5a *73
95Sleepwalkers
-
HVS 5b 7
96Pleasant Dreams
-
HVS 5c 5
97RapeE2 5b *62
98Gulle Gulle GrooveVS 4c *89
99FlycatcherE1 5b *73
100Snap DragonE5 6b **15
101Leering WallHVS 5b *121
102Dagenham DaveE1 5b 29
103Clive's RouteVS 4c 24
104Switch
-
E3 6a 2
105ChangelingE4 6a 1
106Doggone GrooveVS 4b 69
107What Aches?
-
E4 6a 3
108Otaix
-
E1 5b 7
109Negative Earth
-
E1 5b 1
110Chee Tor GirdleVS 5a ***338
111Puppets
-
E1 5b 6
 Dog's Dinner Buttress 
113Dogfight7c+  
114Scooby Snacks7a+ *9
115Shake the Tail6b 5
116Wag the Dog6c 4
117Tail Shake
-
6b *2
118Turkey Lurking7b+ *5
119Baffled by Water Wings
-
E4 6b 2
120Learning to SwimE4 6b 1
121My Dog DillE5 6a * 
122Go Cat7a **14
123Dog Dirt7c 3
124In the Drink6c *11
125Cat Lick7b 4
126Little CurverE1  
 Dogs Bouldering 
128Pedigree Chum8c+ *** 
129Finest Pedigree9a+ *** 
130Dogs Dinner cross through problemf7A+ **2
131Sidepulls sitstartf7A+ 1
132Dinner timef7B *1
133α (Alpha)f7C **1
 The Cornice 
135Ophelias Lobelia
-
7b+  
136Forehead Trombone7b+ *6
137Trombone Practice8a 2
138Sharp Practice8a+ ** 
139Masculine Power Trip8a+ ** 
140Mescaline Power Trip8a ** 
141Wright-On7c+ *1
142Wright to Left7c **1
143Taylor Made7c **28
144Feminine Ego Trip8a 3
145Feminine Ego Trip (strict lefthand finish)8a 1
146Feminine ego trip - clematis
-
8a *1
147Nemesis8a+ ***28
148Bricktop8b ***20
149Clematis8b **3
150Monumental Armblaster8a+ ***17
151Malcolm X8b+ ** 
152Malcolm Armblaster8b **1
153Last Eggs Before the M17c+ 2
154Gran Techo8b ***8
155Techno Prisoners8b+ ***3
156The Jug Jockey7c+ ***28
157Easy Rider7c+ *4
158Dreadnaught8c *** 
159The Roof Warrior8a ***63
160Cry of Despair7c ***146
161Rapid City8a *6
162That was the River7b+ **63
163Streamline7c+ 1
164Tributary8a+ 1
165This is the Sea7c+ *38
166Old Man River7b **117
167Zippy's Direct Finish7b+ 26
168Dirty Old Man7c+ 6
169The Naive and Sentimental Lover7b+ **16
170Up the River Without a Paddle6c+ **141
171Snails of the Riverbank7b **66
172The Spiders from Mars6b 69
173The Monday Club7a+ 6
174Trampled Underfoot7a *11
175Gardener's Question Time7a *3
176Rue Morgue
-
E4 6a 9
177The Goldfish7a+ * 
178After the Goldfish
-
7a+ *6
179Crowd Control7c *7
180Une Crime PassionelE4 6a **39
181A Basic Power ProblemE6 6b  
182FeyE4 5c *10
183War Memorial6c *264
184Succubus7b+ **48
185ShazamE4 6a *7
186Martial Music7a **328
187Martial Call6c+ *16
188Clarion Call7a ***416
189Poppy Fields7b+ *7
190Armistice Day7a+ **218
191Whose Line is it Anyway?7a+ ***249
192Big StoreE5 6b *4
193Egyptian BizarreE5 6b *7
194Big Zipper7b **180
195Beelzebub7b+ *10
196Bored of the Lies7b+ ***168
197Bored into Beelzebub7b+ *4
198Ouijaboard8a **26
199Four Door Dostoyevsky8a+ **9
200Powerplant8a ***136
201Powerpants8a *4
202Devonshire Arms8a+ **10
203Powerarms8b *2
204Devonshire army8a+ *2
205K38a+ ***42
206K58b *8
207K28b+ * 
208428b * 
209328b+ **4
210R'n'P8a+ ***28
211Body Snatchers8b **1
212Snatch8b **2
213Barney Ragin'8b+ **7
214Love Amongst the Butterflies8b ***8
215Asia Shadow Player8b ** 
216Somehow Super8c * 
217Unleashing the Wild Physique8a ***49
218Cosmopolitan7b+ **102
219Cordless Madness7c **93
220Mandy7b+ *42
221Flowers in the Dirt7b *8
222The Third Order7b **30
223Loco7b+ *5
224Too Pumpy for Grumpy7b+ 9
225Further Adventures in Greendale6c *269
226Old Man's GambitE2 5c 1
227The Corniceman7a+ **113
228Jelly Fingers
-
HVS 5a  
229Vandal
-
VS 4c 1
230Whitebeam
-
E1 5c  
231Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
-
HS 4a  
232Ezekiel Stool
-
E1 5b  
233Um Bongo
-
E4 6b  
234Led Up the Garden Path
-
E1 5b  
235Flash Harry
-
E4 5c  
236Too Jugless for Douglas
-
E4 6b 1
237Subversive
-
E2 5b  
238Fibrin
-
VS 4c  
239Rinky Dinky
-
E1 5c 1
240The 'too small for the tall' Wall
-
E5 6b  
241Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
-
7b+  
242Skin-flick
-
7c+  
 Rhubarb Buttress 
244The Way of the Gone Wives6b+ 3
245Custard Pie in yer Eye6c 1
246Cry Havoc6c 1
247Fallout Zone6c 2
248Gaseous Exchange6c+ *2
249Chemical Weapons7a *7
250Rhubarb, Rhubarb, Rhubarb6b+ *21
251Semolina Sunday6c+ 2
252The Bee's KneesE1 5a 2
253A Laugh a Minute
-
E5 6a  
254The Garlic Twist6b+ *24
255Brief Camouflage6c *13
256The Day of the Long KnivesE6 6b  
257Feline Fine6c *11
258Fat Ginger Cat7a+ *4
259Turbo-charged Monster Mouse7a *5
260Thrash Your Woodie7b *3
261Me Tarzan7b+ 1
262De Vine8a **4
263Zebedee Visits the ClinicE6 6b  
264Blue-arsed Fly
-
E6 6c  
265The Rainmaker7b+  
266Bloodworm
-
E3 6a 1
267Blood LustE2 5c *5
268Bad BloodE5 6a  
269Blood TransfusionE5 6b  
270Lady's Finger7a+ * 
271The European Female7a *10
272Moonflower
-
E4 6a  
273Naiad
-
E1 5b  
274Nip the Nippon
-
E2 5b 1
275The white knuckle Shuffle *8a+ **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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