UKC

Climbs 8
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 3005m a.s.l
Faces S

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Full South Face of Pilier d'Avenir © Valaisan

Crag features

The Pilier d’Avenir 400m south face with climbs in the mid to upper grades. Stay well clear of the upper level gullies and ledges as much as possible as they are full of broken rock and dangerous, so watch your descent. There are about 8 recorded sport and trad routes with some bolted belays. There is scope for opening new routes. Topos for these routes can be found at the Cabin d'Orny (2,811m) which is 45mins walk away.

Two sets of belay bolts have been installed at key points to avoid snagging problems if a direct abseil line is taken. Full details of location can be found at teh Cabin d'Orny.

Descent: there are NO safe walk-offs this crag. The descent is a combination of down scramble the ledges and abseil back down the route you came up, using any key belay anchors provided.

Equipment advised: 2 x 60m 1/2 ropes + full trad rack + 14 quick-draws for sport section.

Approach notes

Best approach is via Champex-sur-lac. Take the all-year round chairlift to Grands Plans (1st up 8.30am last down 3.30pm in summer) gets you to 2,188m. Walk up is then about 2hrs or 5kms to Cabane d'Orny at 2,811m. Pilier d'Avenir is next to (West of) Aiguille d'Orny about 40mins up glacier d'Orny.

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Climbs at this crag

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