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These details were last updated on 14/Sep/2011

Highcliffe Nab

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 88 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:

Ladies First (VD)

Highcliff Crack (S)

Hearthorb Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)

Queer Street (HVS - bold)

Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)

ROckhopper (E2 - bold)

Stargazer (E4)

Moonflower (E5)

Magic in the Air (E6/7)

Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a fey dry days.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The ScoopVS 5a *8
2Ladies First Direct StartVS 4c 15
3Ladies FirstHVD 11
4GardomVS 4c 3
5SmorrahVS 4c 2
6IsolationVD 8
7West Face RouteVD 7
8No Hiding PlaceE4 5c 2
9North West RouteVD *43
10North West DirectVS 4c *23
11Scar FaceE1 5c 3
12Chimney ButtressHD 15
13Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD 28
14Highcliff Chimney DirectS 42
15Highcliff Chimney-AreteS 8
16Heart Throb CrackHS 4b *53
17The WebE4 5c *3
18Flake CrackVS 4c *47
19Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *1
20Barnaby's RoutesHD 14
21RockhopperE2 5b 8
22Highcliff CrackS ***103
23Queer StreetE1 5a **28
24MoonflowerE5 6b **6
25Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **5
26Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b ***2
27Puffs ParadeE1 5c 4
28Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***44
29StargazerE4 6a ***17
30Stargazer DirectE4 6b *3
31Stargazer Super DirectE4 6a *** 
32Desperate DenE5 6c **4
33Magic in the AirE5 6b ***8
34Original SinE6 6c * 
35EsmereldaE7 6c ** 
36Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *3
37WombatE1 5b ***20
38The Bells DirectE4 6b  
39Edge HogHVS 5b 3
40DamoclesVS 4b 3
41The ShieldVS 4c 1
42The SplitVD 2
43EquityVD  
44Twin CracksHS 4b 4
 Climb nameGradex
45PingE1 5c *3
46Greasy ChimneyVD 1
47Smear FearE3 5c * 
48CyclopsE3 5c  
49Slime SlabD 1
50Slime Slab VariantVS 4b 1
51Sod CrackHVS 5b  
52Skid RowE1 5b 1
53Knuckle DusterHVS 5a  
54Wee DotE1 5b * 
55Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a  
56SarcophagusHVS 4c 1
57Sunset CrackHVS 5a 1
58Queen StreetHVD  
59Flange CrackE2 5c * 
60Green CrackVD 1
61Nice and EasyHS 4b  
62PeelerE1 5c *3
63GluonE2 5c * 
64Cling OnE2 5c *1
65WantonHVS 5a *1
66Paul's ProblemE1 5c 1
67Easy CrackD 1
68Frank's FollyVS 4c 1
69Green Wall DirectVS 4c  
70Green CrackHS 4b 2
71Green WallVS 4c 1
72Shades of GreenHVS 4c 2
73Lost CrackVS 4c *3
74UnnamedE2 5c  
75Holden's RighthandHVS 5b *3
76Holden's WallHVS 5a **5
77Bullshitters WallHVS 5b 1
78Lost CauseS  
79TwisterS 1
80Squeezed DryE2 5b 1
81Early DaysVS 4c *2
82Be-Bop-BapHVS 5a 1
83Girdle TraverseE1 5bA2  
84Flower Powerf6C 4
85Curious IntrigueE4 5c **2
86The Floating Power TraverseV0 7a 1
87Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 5b 1
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Access notes
From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer lukehunt ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy ? - 28/Jul/11

Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy ? - 02/Aug/10

It's bangin'! Really good place to have a play at some harder routes. Desperate Den and Moonflower are difficult and technical, but also safe to fall off, so a good intro to 6b and 6c, the other hard routes are either good just to swing a rope down or epic onsight targets. Esmerelda ain't no push-over. The easier routes are a bit rubish, apart from highcliffe crack, which is brilliant.
Franco Cookson OLD ? - 04/Nov/09

Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap ? - 26/Sep/09