Highcliffe Nab

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:

Ladies First (VD)

Highcliff Crack (S)

Hearthorb Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)

Queer Street (HVS - bold)

Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)

ROckhopper (E2 - bold)

Stargazer (E4)

Moonflower (E5)

Magic in the Air (E6/7)

Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a fey dry days.

Access notes
From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WEST WALL  
2The ScoopVS 5a *9
3Ladies First Direct StartVS 4c 17
4Ladies FirstHVD 15
5GardomVS 4c 2
6SmorrahVS 4c 2
7IsolationVD 9
8West Face RouteVD 9
9No Hiding PlaceE4 5c 2
10North West RouteVD *53
11North West DirectVS 4c *29
12Scar FaceE1 5c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
14Chimney ButtressHD 17
15Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD 33
16Highcliff Chimney DirectS 49
17Highcliff Chimney-AreteS 9
18Heart Throb CrackHS 4b *66
19The WebE4 5c *5
20Flake CrackVS 4c *62
21Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *1
22Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners)E7 6b? 1
23Barnaby's RoutesHD 16
24RockhopperE2 5b 8
25Highcliff CrackS ***128
26Queer StreetE1 5a **37
27MoonflowerE5 6b **8
28Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **6
29Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b ***2
30Puffs ParadeE1 5c 4
31Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***58
32Five Years OnE4 7a ***1
33StargazerE4 6a ***24
34Stargazer DirectE5 6b *3
35Stargazer Super DirectE5 6b  
36Desperate DenE6 6b **5
37Magic In The AirE7 6b ***4
38Magic in the Air (Original)E5 6b ***13
 THE BACK WALLS  
40Original SinE7 6c * 
41EsmereldaE7 6c **1
42Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *5
43WombatE1 5b ***25
44The Bells DirectE4 6b  
45Edge HogHVS 5b 3
46DamoclesVS 4b 3
47The ShieldVS 4c 1
48The SplitVD 2
49EquityVD  
50Twin CracksHS 4b 9
51PingE1 5c *5
52Greasy ChimneyVD 1
53Smear FearE3 5c * 
 SECTOR CREEK  
55CyclopsE3 5c  
56Slime SlabD 1
57Slime Slab VariantVS 4b 1
58The Curious IntrigueE4 5c **2
59Sod CrackHVS 5b  
60Skid RowE1 5b 1
61Knuckle DusterHVS 5a  
62Wee DotE1 5b * 
63Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a 2
64SarcophagusHVS 4c 1
65Sunset CrackHVS 5a 1
 PEELER BUTTRESS  
67Queen StreetHVD  
68Flange CrackE2 5c * 
69The Magic ScoopE8 7a **1
70Green CrackVD 1
71Nice and EasyHS 4b  
72PeelerE1 5c *2
73GluonE2 5c *2
74Cling OnE2 5c *1
75WantonHVS 5a *1
 EASTERN BAY  
77Paul's ProblemE1 5c 1
78Easy CrackD 1
79Frank's FollyVS 4c 1
80Green Wall DirectVS 4c  
81Green CrackHS 4b 2
82Green WallVS 4c 1
83Shades of GreenHVS 4c 2
84Lost CrackVS 4c *3
85UnnamedE2 5c  
86Holden's RighthandHVS 5b *3
87Holden's WallHVS 5a **6
88Bullshitters WallHVS 5b 1
89Lost CauseS  
90TwisterS 1
91Squeezed DryE2 5b 1
92Early DaysVS 4c *2
93Be-Bop-BapHVS 5a 1
94Girdle TraverseE1 5bA2  
95Flower Powerf6C 4
96The Floating Power TraverseV0 7a 1
97Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 5b 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09