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These details were last updated on 10/Apr/2014

Highcliffe Nab

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:

Ladies First (VD)

Highcliff Crack (S)

Hearthorb Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)

Queer Street (HVS - bold)

Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)

ROckhopper (E2 - bold)

Stargazer (E4)

Moonflower (E5)

Magic in the Air (E6/7)

Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a fey dry days.

Access notes
From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
16 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
20 °C
9 kph

13.2mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
16 kph

11.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 WEST WALL  
2The ScoopVS 5a *9
3Ladies First Direct StartVS 4c 16
4Ladies FirstHVD 13
5GardomVS 4c 2
6SmorrahVS 4c 2
7IsolationVD 9
8West Face RouteVD 8
9No Hiding PlaceE4 5c 2
10North West RouteVD *49
11North West DirectVS 4c *27
12Scar FaceE1 5c 4
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
14Chimney ButtressHD 16
15Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD 31
16Highcliff Chimney DirectS 48
17Highcliff Chimney-AreteS 8
18Heart Throb CrackHS 4b *62
19The WebE4 5c *4
20Flake CrackVS 4c *60
21Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *1
22Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners)E7 6b? 1
23Barnaby's RoutesHD 15
24RockhopperE2 5b 8
25Highcliff CrackS ***126
26Queer StreetE1 5a **32
27MoonflowerE5 6b **7
28Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **6
29Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b ***2
30Puffs ParadeE1 5c 4
31Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***55
32Five Years OnE4 7a ***1
33StargazerE4 6a ***23
34Stargazer DirectE5 6b *3
35Stargazer Super DirectE5 6b  
36Desperate DenE6 6b **5
37Magic In The AirE7 6b ***1
38Magic in the Air (Original)E5 6b ***12
 THE BACK WALLS  
40Original SinE7 6c * 
41EsmereldaE7 6c **1
42Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *5
43WombatE1 5b ***21
44The Bells DirectE4 6b  
45Edge HogHVS 5b 3
46DamoclesVS 4b 3
47The ShieldVS 4c 1
48The SplitVD 2
49EquityVD  
 Climb nameGradex
50Twin CracksHS 4b 7
51PingE1 5c *5
52Greasy ChimneyVD 1
53Smear FearE3 5c * 
 SECTOR CREEK  
55CyclopsE3 5c  
56Slime SlabD 1
57Slime Slab VariantVS 4b 1
58The Curious IntrigueE4 5c **2
59Sod CrackHVS 5b  
60Skid RowE1 5b 1
61Knuckle DusterHVS 5a  
62Wee DotE1 5b * 
63Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a 2
64SarcophagusHVS 4c 1
65Sunset CrackHVS 5a 1
 PEELER BUTTRESS  
67Queen StreetHVD  
68Flange CrackE2 5c * 
69The Magic ScoopE8 7a **1
70Green CrackVD 1
71Nice and EasyHS 4b  
72PeelerE1 5c *2
73GluonE2 5c *2
74Cling OnE2 5c *1
75WantonHVS 5a *1
 EASTERN BAY  
77Paul's ProblemE1 5c 1
78Easy CrackD 1
79Frank's FollyVS 4c 1
80Green Wall DirectVS 4c  
81Green CrackHS 4b 2
82Green WallVS 4c 1
83Shades of GreenHVS 4c 2
84Lost CrackVS 4c *3
85UnnamedE2 5c  
86Holden's RighthandHVS 5b *3
87Holden's WallHVS 5a **6
88Bullshitters WallHVS 5b 1
89Lost CauseS  
90TwisterS 1
91Squeezed DryE2 5b 1
92Early DaysVS 4c *2
93Be-Bop-BapHVS 5a 1
94Girdle TraverseE1 5bA2  
95Flower Powerf6C 4
96The Floating Power TraverseV0 7a 1
97Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 5b 2
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11

Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10

It's bangin'! Really good place to have a play at some harder routes. Desperate Den and Moonflower are difficult and technical, but also safe to fall off, so a good intro to 6b and 6c, the other hard routes are either good just to swing a rope down or epic onsight targets. Esmerelda ain't no push-over. The easier routes are a bit rubish, apart from highcliffe crack, which is brilliant.
Franco Cookson OLD - 04/Nov/09

Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09