Highcliffe Nab

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.


Ladies First (VD)

Highcliff Crack (S)

Hearthorb Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)

Queer Street (HVS - bold)

Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)

ROckhopper (E2 - bold)

Stargazer (E4)

Moonflower (E5)

Magic in the Air (E6/7)

Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a fey dry days.

Approach notes
From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The ScoopVS 5a *9
3Ladies First Direct StartVS 4c 17
4Ladies FirstHVD 18
5GardomVS 4c 2
6SmorrahVS 4c 2
7IsolationVD 9
8West Face RouteVD 9
9No Hiding PlaceE4 5c 2
10North West RouteHVD 4a *57
11North West DirectVS 4c *29
12Scar FaceE1 5c 5
14Chimney ButtressHD 20
15Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD 36
16Highcliff Chimney DirectS 4a 52
17Highcliff Chimney-AreteS 10
18Heart Throb CrackHS 4c *70
19The WebE4 5c *5
20Flake CrackVS 4c *72
21Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *1
22Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners)E7 6b? 1
23Barnaby's RoutesHD 17
24RockhopperE3 5b 8
25Highcliff CrackS 4b ***139
26Queer StreetE1 5a **39
27MoonflowerE5 6b **9
28Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **6
29Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b **2
30Puffs ParadeE1 5c *4
31Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***60
32Five Years OnE4 7a ***1
33StargazerE3 5c **25
34Stargazer DirectE5 6b *3
35Stargazer Super DirectE5 6b  
36Desperate DenE6 6c **4
37Magic In The AirE7 6b ***5
38Magic in the Air (Original)E6 6b ***12
40Original SinE7 6c * 
41EsmereldaE7 6c **1
42Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *5
43WombatE1 5b **26
44The Bells DirectE4 6b  
45Edge HogHVS 5b 5
46DamoclesVS 4b 5
47The ShieldVS 4c 1
48The SplitVD 2
50Twin CracksHS 4b 9
51PingE1 5c *5
52Greasy ChimneyVD 1
53Smear FearE3 5c * 
55CyclopsE3 5c  
56Slime SlabD 1
57Slime Slab VariantVS 4b 1
58The Curious IntrigueE4 5c **2
59Sod CrackHVS 5b  
60Skid RowE1 5b 1
61Knuckle DusterHVS 5a  
62Wee DotE1 5b * 
63Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a 2
64SarcophagusHVS 4c 1
65Sunset CrackHVS 5a 1
67Queen StreetHVD  
68Flange CrackE2 5c * 
69The Magic ScoopE8 7a **1
70Green CrackVD 1
71Nice and EasyHS 4b  
72PeelerE1 5c *2
73GluonE2 5c *2
74Cling OnE2 5c *1
75WantonHVS 5a *1
77Paul's ProblemE1 5c 1
78Easy CrackD 1
79Frank's FollyVS 4c 1
80Green Wall DirectVS 4c  
81Green CrackHS 4b 2
82Green WallVS 4c 1
83Shades of GreenHVS 4c 2
84Lost CrackVS 4c *3
85UnnamedE2 5c  
86Holden's RighthandHVS 5b *3
87Holden's WallHVS 5a **9
88Bullshitters WallHVS 5b 1
89Lost CauseS  
90TwisterS 1
91Squeezed DryE2 5b 1
92Early DaysVS 4c *2
93Be-Bop-BapHVS 5a 1
94Girdle TraverseE1 5bA2  
95Flower Powerf6C 4
96The Floating Power TraverseV0 7a 1
97Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 5b 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09