Climbs 91
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces N

My Edit of the 'classic' Moonflower shot © Dave Warburton

Crag features

One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:
Ladies First (VD)
Highcliffe Crack (S)
Hearthrob Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)
Holden's (HVS) Knuckle Duster (HVS)
Queer Street (E1 - bold) Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)
Rockhopper (E2 - bold) Peeler (E2)
Stargazer (E4)
Moonflower (E5)
Magic in the Air (E6/7)
Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a few dry days. Many of the previously neglected routes at the far end of the crag have recently been cleaned up (as of summer 2016) and are well worth seeking out.

Approach notes

From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
I've cleaned a few routes at the left hand end as they were looking sadly neglected. From left to right: - Holden's Wall (HVS) - Holden's Right Hand (HVS) - Green crack (HS) - Green wall (VS) - Frank's Folly (VS) - Peeler (E2) - Flange Crack (E2) - Sunset Crack (HVS) - Sarcophagus (HVS) - Wee Dot (HVS) - Knuckleduster (HVS) - Ping (E1) - Twin Cracks (HS) I've cleared the brambles and branches from the bottom of the crag too so it's easy enough to walk all the way along from the popular end now. I've also cleared the brash left over from the feeling at the top of the Peeler/Flange crack area as it was a nightmare walking through it to get to the belay trees. Hopefully this might encourage folk to venture down there a bit more as there are some cracking routes to be had, especially Ping, Peeler and Holden's. Get stuck in!
Anti-faff - 11/Jun/16
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Wall 
2The Scoop
-
VS 5a *9
3Ladies First Direct Start
-
VS 4c 16
4Ladies First
-
HVD 18
5Gardom
-
VS 4c 2
6Smorrah
-
VS 4c 2
7Isolation
-
VD 9
8West Face Route
-
VD 10
9No Hiding Place
-
E4 5c 2
10North West RouteHVD 4a *67
11North West DirectVS 4c *30
12Scar FaceE1 5c 5
 Main Buttress 
14Chimney Buttress
-
HD 20
15Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD 41
16Highcliff Chimney DirectS 4a 56
17Highcliff Chimney-Arete
-
S 11
18Heart Throb CrackHS 4c *78
19The WebE4 5c *5
20Flake CrackVS 4c *79
21Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *1
22Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners)E7 6b? 1
23Barnaby's Routes
-
HD 17
24RockhopperE3 5b 8
25Highcliff CrackS 4b ***167
26Queer StreetE1 5a **43
27Moonflower
-
E5 6b **11
28Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **6
29Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b **5
30Puffs ParadeE1 5c *4
31Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***78
32Five Years OnE4 7a ***1
33StargazerE3 5c **35
34Stargazer DirectE5 6b *3
35Stargazer Super DirectE5 6b  
36Desperate DenE6 6c **4
37Magic In The AirE7 6b ***5
38Magic in the Air (Original)E6 6b ***18
 The Back Walls 
40Original SinE7 6c * 
41EsmereldaE7 6c ** 
42Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *5
43WombatE1 5b **28
44The Bells Direct
-
E4 6b  
45Edge Hog
-
HVS 5b 5
46Damocles
-
VS 4b 5
47The Shield
-
VS 4c 1
48The Split
-
VD 2
49Equity
-
VD  
50Twin CracksHS 4b *14
51PingE1 5c *11
52Greasy Chimney
-
VD 1
53Smear Fear
-
E3 5c * 
 Sector Creek 
55Cyclops
-
E3 5c  
56Slime Slab
-
D 1
57Slime Slab Variant
-
VS 4b 1
58The Curious IntrigueE4 5c **2
59Sod Crack
-
HVS 5b  
60Skid Row
-
E1 5b 1
61Knuckle DusterHVS 5a *2
62Wee DotE1 5b **2
63Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a 2
64SarcophagusHVS 4c 1
65Sunset CrackHVS 5a 1
 Peeler Buttress 
67Queen Street
-
HVD  
68Flange CrackE2 5c *2
69The Magic ScoopE8 7a **1
70Green Crack
-
VD 1
71Nice and Easy
-
HS 4b  
72PeelerE1 5c ***4
73Gluon
-
E2 5c *2
74Cling On
-
E2 5c *1
75Wanton
-
HVS 5a *1
 Eastern Bay 
77Paul's ProblemE1 5c 1
78Easy CrackD 1
79Frank's FollyVS 4c 1
80Green Wall DirectVS 4c  
81Green CrackHS 4b 4
82Green WallVS 4c 3
83Shades of GreenHVS 4c 2
84Lost CrackVS 4c *4
85UnnamedE2 5c  
86Holden's RighthandHVS 5b **5
87Holden's WallHVS 5a **10
88Bullshitters Wall
-
HVS 5b 1
89Lost Cause
-
S 2
90TwisterS 1
91Squeezed DryE2 5b 1
92Early Days
-
VS 4c *2
93Be-Bop-Bap
-
HVS 5a 1
94Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5bA2  
95Flower Powerf6C 4
96The Floating Power TraverseV0 1
97Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 2

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