Highcliffe Nab

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.

Recommended:

Ladies First (VD)

Highcliff Crack (S)

Hearthorb Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)

Queer Street (HVS - bold)

Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)

ROckhopper (E2 - bold)

Stargazer (E4)

Moonflower (E5)

Magic in the Air (E6/7)

Esmerelda (E7)

Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a fey dry days.

Access notes
From Hutton Village (GR 603 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 WEST WALL 
2The ScoopVS 5a *
3Ladies First Direct StartVS 4c
4Ladies FirstHVD
5GardomVS 4c
6SmorrahVS 4c
7IsolationVD
8West Face RouteVD
9No Hiding PlaceE4 5c
10North West RouteVD *
11North West DirectVS 4c *
12Scar FaceE1 5c
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
14Chimney ButtressHD
15Highcliff Chimney-OrdinaryVD
16Highcliff Chimney DirectS
17Highcliff Chimney-AreteS
18Heart Throb CrackHS 4b *
19The WebE4 5c *
20Flake CrackVS 4c *
21Cardiac ArrestE6 6b *
22Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners)E7 6b?
23Barnaby's RoutesHD
24RockhopperE2 5b
25Highcliff CrackS ***
26Queer StreetE1 5a **
27MoonflowerE5 6b **
28Moonflower Direct FinishE4 6b **
29Moonflower Super DirectE5 6b ***
30Puffs ParadeE1 5c
31Scarecrow CrackE1 5b ***
32Five Years OnE4 7a ***
33StargazerE4 6a ***
34Stargazer DirectE5 6b *
35Stargazer Super DirectE5 6b
36Desperate DenE6 6b **
37Magic In The AirE7 6b ***
38Magic in the Air (Original)E5 6b ***
 THE BACK WALLS 
40Original SinE7 6c *
41EsmereldaE7 6c **
42Trampled UnderfootE1 5b *
43WombatE1 5b ***
44The Bells DirectE4 6b
45Edge HogHVS 5b
46DamoclesVS 4b
47The ShieldVS 4c
48The SplitVD
49EquityVD
50Twin CracksHS 4b
51PingE1 5c *
52Greasy ChimneyVD
53Smear FearE3 5c *
 SECTOR CREEK 
55CyclopsE3 5c
56Slime SlabD
57Slime Slab VariantVS 4b
58The Curious IntrigueE4 5c **
59Sod CrackHVS 5b
60Skid RowE1 5b
61Knuckle DusterHVS 5a
62Wee DotE1 5b *
63Up the Creek without a PaddleE2 6a
64SarcophagusHVS 4c
65Sunset CrackHVS 5a
 PEELER BUTTRESS 
67Queen StreetHVD
68Flange CrackE2 5c *
69The Magic ScoopE8 7a **
70Green CrackVD
71Nice and EasyHS 4b
72PeelerE1 5c *
73GluonE2 5c *
74Cling OnE2 5c *
75WantonHVS 5a *
 EASTERN BAY 
77Paul's ProblemE1 5c
78Easy CrackD
79Frank's FollyVS 4c
80Green Wall DirectVS 4c
81Green CrackHS 4b
82Green WallVS 4c
83Shades of GreenHVS 4c
84Lost CrackVS 4c *
85UnnamedE2 5c
86Holden's RighthandHVS 5b *
87Holden's WallHVS 5a **
88Bullshitters WallHVS 5b
89Lost CauseS
90TwisterS
91Squeezed DryE2 5b
92Early DaysVS 4c *
93Be-Bop-BapHVS 5a
94Girdle TraverseE1 5bA2
95Flower Powerf6C
96The Floating Power TraverseV0 7a
97Sticky Toffee Pudding PowerV1 5b
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile!
phleppy - 28/Jul/11
Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place!
phleppy - 02/Aug/10
Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes.
beaumap - 26/Sep/09