Climbs 186
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces all

Charlotte on Jumping Jack Flash © Tom Peckitt

Crag features

A series of severely undercut buttresses of sound moorland grit. Recommended: Fiddler on the Roof (5c), Fiddlers Arete (5b), Fiddler (5a). Both north- and south-facing.

Approach notes

Full details here:

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/goldsborogh.htm

Access Advice

Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a 5 year dog ban.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Vol 2 (2011)

Out of print:
The rock is gritstone (i.e. millstone grit). The climbing is good, though the starts of the routes tend to be rather tricky. The bouldering is also excellent (in fact most of the routes are just boulder problems with easy finishes) George.
Mr Pink 2 - 28/May/05
I would just like to add that even though I am no rock expert, Goldsborough Carr is not a gritstone crag. I mentioned a gritstone overhang but i failed to mention that the above rock is harder, thus there is an overhang. The lower portion (which only appears under the highest climbs) might not even be gritstone. Seasoned geologists might be able to determine what type of rock is seen both in my photo and the majority of the rest of the crag, but I can't. So please don't go expecting lots of gritstone action. I feel partly guilty for it. Also, there is more than just bouldering available. The climb in the photo is way too high for my liking. Also, there are lots of metal poles in the ground at the top of the crag for tying into. Most of the crag is south-facing but some is west facing and a little bit faces north. Parking can be done on the road to the north and a 10-minute walk across a bushy field separates you from the crag, which can be seen from the road.
Tommy Alsop - 26/Nov/04
Concerning the picture of James on Fiddler on the Roof To start this climb go to the back of the wall under the overhang. There is a rock which you can put your leg over and lock yourself in with your toe. From there, if you put your weight on this foot lock and walk your other leg up the wall you should be able to reach the first hold. Don't take your leg out of the lock until you get a good hold cos you'll swing out and probably fall 3 metres onto your face.
- - 25/Nov/04
A mixture of very hard climbs or very easy climbs. Those routes which were beyond me were the ones which start 2 metres off the ground. We had to abseil down from the top in order to climb because we werent able to do the gritstone overhangs. The easier climbs were mostly short bouldering routes of about 4c-5a standard. There's plenty to do, it's fairly easy to get to and we were alone when we went midweek.
Tommy Alsop - 18/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Enigma Buttress 
2The Swaledale Morris Men
-
f3 89
3Y-Crack
-
f2+ 152
4Finger Crackf3 4c *133
5System of a Brownf6B 6b 4
6Ravock chimney
-
f3 60
7Go Ahead, Make my Hay
-
f6B  
8In Search of Cheap Bananasf6B 6b * 
9Enigma Directf6B 6b *4
10Enigmaf6A 6a *20
11Old Mossf5+ 5c *38
12Magic Mossf6B 1
13Cotherstone Reiverf5 5b *30
14Corner Crack
-
f2 63
15Holstein Friesianf6B 6b 1
16Flake and Crackf3 *124
17The Crack Direct
-
f4 21
 Hubris Buttress 
19Hubrisf6A 6a *47
20Cenopod Corner
-
f2 56
21Saturnaliaf5 5b 13
22Ian's Aretef7A 6c  
23Hunder crack
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f3 *82
24Crawlaw
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f3 38
25Fats' Dyno and Mantlef6A 6
 Boulder 
27Indian Summer
-
f3 8
28Long and Hot
-
f6A 2
 Yoke Buttress 
30Mawman
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f3 50
31Stewart's Wall
-
f5+ 14
32Yoke Sike
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f4 *42
33Yoke Siddle
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f5 17
34Yawd Sike
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f3 37
35Brown Rigg Flake
-
f2 45
36Brown Rigg Wall
-
f2 37
 Thornbird Buttress 
38Bottle Wall
-
f3 21
39Bottle Crack
-
f2 18
40Motivation Left Handf6A 2
41Motivationf5+ 5c 18
42The Obsessedf6A 6a 5
43Viola
-
f6B 1
44George's Rooff7C+ 7
45Fiddler on the RoofE1 5c *62
46Clute
-
E4 6c 1
47The ThornbirdE2 6a *14
48Green NigelE2 6a 12
49The Long Reachf7A 6c *4
50Leglessf6C 6b 3
51Clamp Master
-
f7B+ ** 
52Tute CrackS 4a 35
 The Alcove 
54Yalef3 4b 29
55Lock Outf3 4c 44
56Borstal Breakoutf6A 6a 5
57Loups Aretef5 5a 19
58Loups Wall
-
f5 5
59The Alcove Circuit
-
f5 4
 Thin Wall Buttress 
61Maggie's Wall
-
f2 87
62Topal's Wallf3+ 54
63Rock Artf7C+ * 
64Fiddler's Wallf7A 6c *2
65Pessimistf7C  
66Fiddlers AreteE1 5b **141
67Traverse into Fiddler's Aretef6C 3
68FiddlerHVS 5a *86
69Fiddler DirectE1 5b *73
70Barney BoysE2 6a 17
71The ScoopE2 6b 15
72Confectionary Debrisf7C * 
73Thin Wall SpecialE2 5c 69
74G String
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VS 5a 4
75Jumping Jack FlashE2 6a 96
76Low Level Traversef7A 6b ***5
77Super Low Level Traversef7B  
78Something Burning
-
f8A  
79Second Comingf8B  
80Juxtapose
-
f8A  
81The Footless Traversef7B *1
82Holeshot
-
f7C  
83Beth's Traversef7C 6c **2
84Prelude
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f7C+  
85Unnamedf6C+ 1
86Love Spreadsf8A  
87Shotgun Hobof8A ** 
 Baldersdale Buttress 
89Plagiarist Left Hand
-
f6A 17
90Plagiarist
-
f6A *32
91This One's For Billf7A+ ***8
92Bass Special
-
f4+ *62
93Ice Cream Specialf5 3
94Scoopf6C+ 3
95Scream
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f6A 7
96Baldersdale Ale
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f3 11
97The Balder
-
f3 9
 South East Boulder 
99Tidal Force
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f5+ 2
100The Ups (Left)
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f6A 3
101The Ups (Right)
-
f6A+ 3
102South East Boulder - Southwest Face Top Traverse
-
f6A 5
103The Tide is Turning
-
f6C 5
104Low Water Mark
-
f7A  
105The Spring Tide
-
f7A+  
106Ebb and Flow
-
f7A 1
 Diagonal Buttress 
108No Break Traversef4 2
109Askew
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f5 8
110Adverse Camber
-
f6A 7
111Gap Factor Nine
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f3 18
112Upper Break
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f2+ 24
113Diagonal Crack
-
f3 71
114Diagonal Direct
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f3 55
115Milk Snatcher
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f5 47
116Milk Snatcher sitting start
-
f6A 4
117Kel's Problem
-
f5+ 40
118Kel's Problem sitting start
-
f6A 3
119Ricochetf4 53
120right to left traversef6A 6
1217 Year Old SoloD 7
 Goldsborough North 
 North East Boulders 
 1. Eastern Wall 
125Hands On Top
-
f4+ 1
126Hands Below
-
f6A+ 1
 2. The Thin Seam Bloc 
128113. Mantle
-
f4+ 1
129114. Mantle
-
f6A+ 1
130Abutment
-
f4+ 5
131Brow
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f6A+ 3
132Comminution
-
f5 4
133The Thin Seam
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f6B+ ***5
134Drift
-
f6A *1
 3. Deal No Deal Bloc 
136First Mantel
-
f5 5
137Second Mantel
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f6A 3
138The Nose
-
f5+ 3
139West Face Triple
-
f5 4
140Banker
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f6A *6
141No Deal
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f7A *** 
142Velvet Morning
-
f6C 1
 4. Detached Boulder 
144Around the Block
-
f7A **1
145Left Aretef5 1
 Boulder Five 
147Firth of Fifth
-
f5 *2
148After the Ordeal
-
f5 2
 Boulder Six 
150East Face
-
f4 1
151Arete
-
f5 1
152The West Face
-
f4 1
 Boulder Seven 
154Moonchild
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f4 3
155Infinite Dreams
-
f5+ 1
156Can I play with madness?f5 *4
157The evil that men do
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f5 2
158The Prophecy
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f5 *2
159The Clairvoyant
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f4 3
160The Sheep Pit
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f3+ 1
161Seventh Son of a Seventh Son
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f6C **1
 Boulder Eight 
163Eight Miles High
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f2 1
164Eight Days a Week
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f3+ 1
165Eighth Wonder
-
f2+ 1
 9. Isolated Arete 
167The Isolated ArÍte
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f2+ 3
 10. The Wall 
169In the Flesh
-
f2+ 2
170Goodbye Blue Sky
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f4 1
171Empty Spaces
-
f4 2
172Another Brick in the Wallf4+ 2
173Goodbye Cruel World
-
f4 1
174Hey You
-
f2+ 2
175Comfortably Numb
-
f4 1
176Run Like Hellf6A 1
 11 Dobson Boulder 
178In the Skies
-
f2+ 1
179Funky Chunky
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f3 1
180Tribal Dance
-
f3 1
181Seven Starsf6A+ ***1
182The Prowf6A+ 1
183Just For Youf3 1
184Apostlef4 1
185Slabo Day
-
f4 2
186Jo's Arete
-
f4 3
187Bad Tip
-
f7A+ 1
 Bentley's Buttress 
189FlymantleVS 5a *3
190Flakeaway
-
VD 18
191Scoon Crack
-
f3 13
192Scoon Arete
-
f3 15
193Erroneous Areticus
-
f4 *7
194Wall of Errors
-
f4 5
195Crackaway
-
f2+ 19
196Pocket Wallf3+ 2
197Bentley's Arete
-
f3+ *16
 North West Buttress 
199Pitcher CrackS 6
200HagwormVS 4b 6
201Friar Wall
-
HS 4b 11
202Tuck
-
D 16
203North West Girdle
-
S 4b 2
 Final Buttress 
205Lock Up
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f3 1
206Wriggle Up
-
f3+ 1
207Double Mantelshelf
-
f5+ 1
208Blockton Way
-
f3 5
209Block and Tackle
-
f2+ 7
 Unsorted Climbs 
211Yellow ToesV1 *1
212Yellow Toes DirectV0 *1
213I am the breezeV3 **1

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