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These details were last updated on 07/Jan/2013

Irby Quarry

Merseyside, ENGLAND

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
Former quarry, up to 50ft high; good for beginners but toproping sensible as holds not always trustable.

There are currently a few stakes in place on the wall you face upon entering the quarry. These can be accessed by going to the second wall, and on the LH side of this scrambling up a small path and walking round the top of the quarry, but whilst doing this *be very careful*.

There is currently work being carried out by the persons who owns house at top of left wall. They have bought land leading right up to boundary of quarry and all the way along left side. He is planning to put horses there and possibly building in the future.At top of left wall the small middle fence post has been damaged and the post to the right is unstable. There is also a lot of glass and rubbish around to damage ropes, equipment etc. (last checked 14/08/10).

The stakes at the moment are in pretty good condition. Traversing round the quarry proves a pretty interesting problem, but should only be attempted in dry weather. The main wall does not dry very quickly, but the other wall on the left faces the sun and therefore dries pretty quickly, but is not advisable to go after rain. For those who care the Quarry is owned by the National trust, not the council! ENJOY.

Update: 21/08/10

The quarry is in fact owned by the local authority this can be clarified by visiting the ranger in Royden park. He will show you the map of area and the boundaries of national trust area. The quarry being very close to national trust border, that may be where the confusion lies. A date is being decided in the next couple of weeks for meeting for all local climbers to attend and get there thoughts and ideas expressed. will post date

work has started on the quarry to clear and improve the area. anyone interested in helping out on work days please make yourself known to Paul the ranger in Royden park. Work will probably carry on in new year now due to weather and holidays all help is much appreciated.

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Guidebooks
Cheshire & Merseyside Sandstone (2012),
Out of print: Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire and Merseyside (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Route 1HVD 3c 10
2Noisy HorsesHS 4a 5
3Bat Wall *S 2
4Side Crimp *VS 4b 4
5Left Rib *VD 4
6Left Groove *D 3
7The Flake *VS 4a 3
8Central Rib *VS 4b *4
9Right Wall *HVS 4c *3
10Right Slab *VD 3
11Stepped Slab *D 2
12Stepped Slab Direct *S 3
13The Anvil *VS 4a *2
 Climb nameGradex
14Twin Shot Wall *HVS 4c 4
15Nimo Wall Direct *E1 5b  
16NIMO Wall Right Step *HVS 5a *1
17NIMO Arete *VD 4c 2
18Fragile Wall *VS 4b  
19West Groove *S 2
20Wallnut *HVS 5a  
21Slanting Shelves *VS 4b 1
22Old Peg Leg *VS 4c 1
23Concave Wall *HVS 5a 1
24Slanting slab *S 1
25Slanting slab direct *S 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Take the A540 NW from Heswall for 3mi, then R onto the B5140 towards Frankby. After 0.7mi at a junction by a pub turn R onto a smaller road to Irby Hill. The crag is on the R after 400m; take the footpath through a large wooden gate and up a lane to the foot of the quarry, upon entry the main wall is dead ahead and there is a smaller wall to the left hand side.

Be sure to read the BMC notes.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ironman888 ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Was here a few weeks back and actually had a guy fly tippin over the route i was about to set up for! also i noticed some one had took a chopper to some of the trees over the far side, just wanted to say good effort who ever did that! now we just some insights to whats out of bound on top of the crag, before i start riggin in peoples gardens..... also as for leading routes i wouldnt bother, i take the approach of SOLO! or pads...... sod ropes with this place unless ya workin or with complete novisis... One last thing, i got sniff of the new guide for here and if you want the truth, take every single grade on it with a pinch of salt!!!!!
phil_freeman ? - 26/Jan/12

Live only 2 minutes from this place and with the light nights coming was going to give it a go. Anyone up for it give me a shout.
lincoln.3 ? - 23/Mar/11

if you get glass in your fingers dont worry its NOT your fault , in spite of other's comments ! it's the scum of the earth's fault for putting it there in the first place! all scum bag's can be shot on site according to quarry rule's !
dave555 ? - 02/Jan/11

just been there for the whole day, brushed up a lot whilst havent a break from climbing, there is know NO glass on the main rock face and along to the back wall. left a brush there incase anyone needs it. brush is at the main wall in the spikey bush. get down here guys if your local would be good to see a few climbing faces around instead of just dog walkers. only come if your local, wouldnt travell far to come here really, its good to get a bit of training in your spare time. stewy
stewyclimb ? - 02/Mar/10

crazy tree felling work (10 + trees) has been undertaken on right side of wall , no attempt to clear up the by product , look's very messy and no real need , the wall has been dry enough to climb for years and was dry at the time of the rather exccesive and eye sore tree felling , time would of been better spent tidying usual array of litter/glass e.c.t ,also while i'm at it there's defo no need to use 5kg's of chalk every time you touch rock ! who ever you are you'll save yourself £££'s
dave555 ? - 02/Oct/09

Many urban venues suffer from 'misuse' so if use common sense... if you get glass in your fingers it's your own fault- look before you climb and take a brush. ... there ARE, in FACT, 'actual routes' here in spite of other's comments, it's just that the guide hasn't yet been published. They are all mostly easy, up to 5a/5b and there are some harder. Some routes are probably leadable although the better option might be Top roping, which can be done from fences, trees, blocks and fixed gear (!?)
duncanmartin ? - 10/May/09

good spot to get glass in your finger's or even better glass in your foot, you have been warned ! highly un recomended dont travel more than a mile no actual routes here , all un protectble scrambles
dave555 ? - 10/May/09

what r the routes called?
nolo - 18/Aug/06

where does everyone set up anchors here?
nolo - 14/Aug/06

hey guys, is there any chance that anyone could send me a copy of a topo for this crag? as a friend and me are trying to amass/remake a topo guide and need to know what is already available. cheers mike
mike - 09/Jul/06

I,ve a topo of the East wall (on left) with 8 routes - another 3 added since (cleared gorse at top for these). Grades from VD to VS 4b -all solo or top rope because of lack of protection. There are about 6 routes on the South wall from S to VS 5a and a low level traverse crosses most of the rock. There were other routes further right but the jungle has claimed them.
peteraccre - 01/Jul/06

i will try and get down at the weekend and i will let you know a bit more... sorry! nolo
nolo - 01/Jun/06

there is a couple of routes to the right ide as you walk in, sorry cant give more detail!!! michael
mike - 28/May/06

Does anyone know about any routes at this site because i have searched everywhere and cant find a single place that will give me route and grades Thank
Heather - 03/Sep/05

The loose rock was removed prior to Summer '04 but caution should still be exercised as the rock is very friable in places. The damage did appear to have been deliberate and malicious.
JIB - 02/Jun/05

After someone deliberatly removed a large portion of sandstone the main wall is now unusable for climbing and abseiling as it has many large and loose boulders on the top
allan shaw - 20/Apr/04